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In this video we show you how to replace a front hub on this 2006 Chevy Malibu, same as any 04 to 08 Malibu as well as the Pontiac G6. You know if you have a bad hub if you jack the front wheel off the ground, and you can grab the top and bottom of the wheel and shake it and feel play and then you can also grab each side left and right, shake it and feel the same play. That kind of four-angled play is usually because of a bad hub. Tools you'll need are jack and jack stands, various sockets 13 to 19 mm plus a 35 mm socket with ratchets and extensions. You'll need a breaker bar or a pipe for some extra leverage, flat blade screwdriver, large hammer, wire brush and a torque wrench.
Start out by using a 19 mm socket or wrench and loosen the plastic covers and then remove the wheel cover. You're going to remove the lug nuts, and if you don't have air tools, you'll want to have the wheel on the ground, loosen the lug nuts. Also at this point, you'll want to loosen that 35 mm hub nut. I do have the benefit of having an impact wrench, so I'm able to do that afterwards, but if you don't have an impact wrench, you want to use a breaker bar and a 35 mm socket and loosen that center hub nut now while the wheel is on the ground.
Grab hold of the steering knuckle and turn it to make it easier to reach the back of the caliper. The first thing we're going to do is remove these two bolts here. These two bolts are 14 mm and they should come off pretty easy. I'm just going to speed it up as I remove those two bolts. Now your disc should come off, but since there are some pretty decent ridges here. What you want to do is take a good size screwdriver and pry out with this hole and that kind of loosens up the caliper, and the caliper comes right off. Put it up there for now, and you can just kind of pry out your pads.
Now we need to remove this caliper bracket, so we'll remove two 15 mm bolts here and here. These are going to be somewhat tighter, so I'm going to use my ratchet. If you have a breaker bar, that's the best thing or use a piece of pipe, put it on your ratchet, gives you extra leverage and it comes apart pretty easily. The same thing top one. Get it started.
I'm just going to speed it up here again as I remove those bolts. I found that once I turned them probably three or four turns then they actually came out by hand. Comes over, pulls right off. Right up here is your ABS harness with a little tab pull that down, disconnect that, then just use a screwdriver, push these tabs down and pull the plug off. I take a 35 mm bolt here for the hub. As I said earlier, if you don't have the benefit of impact tools or air tools, you'll want to loosen this hub nut while the wheel is still on and the vehicle is on the ground.
Now your axle you don't want to make it a habit to just beat on this mercilessly with the hammer. What I do is I give it one good tap, and I watch closely, and if that axle moves with one good hit, you know it's broken loose. You don't have to worry too much about it. Okay, the axle moved, so I should be able to get it apart, no problem. If the axle doesn't move with the tap of a hammer, then you'll need to use an axle puller which bolts onto your lug and then use the bolt to push the axle through.
Next we're going to remove the three bolts that hold the hub. Okay, one is up there, one there and one around the back side is kind of hidden tucked right in there. These bolts, especially the top one, you're going to want probably 3/8 drive tools, because they're skinnier, and they allow you go get in there. I'm going to get a pretty good-sized flexible handle and try that. I can use my pipe for a little more leverage. These should come apart pretty easily. At this point I'll speed it up. Use the pipe for the extra leverage, get the bolts loosened up and then you can go at it with the ratchet and remove them the rest of the way. You'll want to turn your steering knuckle so that you can reach the third nut on the backside and then just remove those bolts. Once you have the bolts out, good there. I'm going to speed it up here. Basically you just hit it side to side, up and down and you'll see the hub start to separate from the steering knuckle and then eventually it comes loose, then you can pull it right off. Take the hub off, and your backing plate off. Just kind of wire tied my brake caliper up there. Use a screwdriver and a wire brush to just kind of clean the corrosion from the steering knuckle.
It may need a light coat of grease. It really helps things go back together. You can use some penetrating oil or just regular oil. Take your backing plate and I'm just going to put that in place. Your connector one you want to have that up toward the rear, through the backing plate and put your connector up and through and push on the CV a little bit. Make sure that your electro connector is toward the rear and get the hub onto the axle, spin this around in the correct position, put one of your bolts through. Push everything into place. I'll speed it up here again. You push the hub on, make sure it's in place correctly, start the other two bolts. All the time you're doing this just make sure that ABS wire doesn't get pinched in there anywhere and tighten up those bolts.
Make sure your wire is pulled through, and it's free and put the receptacle right up and clip it into place and I'll reconnect it. Tighten these bolts to hold the hub to the steering knuckle with 65 foot pounds. I'll just speed it up here. Turn the steering knuckle and tighten up the other two again to 65 foot pounds.
New rotor from 1A Auto. Put it on. Take a lug nut. Bolt it into place here. Now take your bracket and it goes basically between the knuckle and the disc, put your bolt in, find its way. These bolts you want to tighten up to 85 foot pounds. Put this one on the front. You want to make sure that your slides are pushed in here, bring your caliper down right on top, two bolts. These two bolts you want to tighten to 35 foot pounds. Once you have the wheel back in place, then you put the lug nuts on by hand, and then I'm just use my impact wrench to just tighten them up preliminarily.
Now with the vehicle on the ground, torque the lug nuts to 100 pounds using a star pattern, now torque your center hub nut, the 35 mm nut with 159 foot pounds, put your wheel cover back on, there's a hole for the valve stem, then use a socket to tighten up the retainers. Last but certainly not least before you drive your vehicle, make sure you pump the brakes a bunch of times, get the pedal to feel nice and firm when you have to reset those caliper pistons, then do stops from five and ten miles an hour before you road test the vehicle.
We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Please feel free to call us toll free 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the internet and in person.
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Okay, friends, before we get started, make sure you safely raise and support your vehicle so your wheel is off the ground. Once you've done that, we're gonna remove all five of our 19-millimeter lug nuts. Remove your wheel. Just to say, we're gonna be servicing a lot of things on the front end of this vehicle, so if you see anything that's taken apart that isn't necessarily in the steps that you need to see, well just don't really pay too much attention to that, and just follow the steps ahead.
All right, now that we've got the wheel off, let's go ahead and remove the caliper bolts from the caliper bracket sliders. Using a small pry bar, I'm just gonna get right in between here and see if I can apply a little bit of pressure and push back this caliper a tiny bit. You can use a wire tie or even a bungee cord. Let's get our pads out of here. Remove your caliper bracket bolts, one here and one up here. Hold that bracket. Now it's gonna be time to get the rotor off of here. If you find that it's stuck on the bearing, just give it a couple loving bonks around this area here. Just be careful for your studs, and definitely don't hit the braking surface.
Now we're gonna use our 36-millimeter socket and remove our axle nut. I always like to spray down the area with some penetrant. So next, we need to push our axle out through our bearing. To do that, you never want to use the hammer directly on your axle, because you could peen over the threads, and of course, that's gonna cause an issue. What I would like to use is a center punch. Come right in the middle here, give it a couple loving bonks. If you don't have a punch, just go ahead and use the original nut here. Put it on there so it's pretty much flush, and then you can go ahead and give it a couple bonks that way. When you do that, you don't have to worry about damaging the threads.
Next, we need to remove our outer tie rod and nut. If you notice when you're trying to take off your outer tie rod and nut that the stud was just spinning inside your knuckle area, use some nice long pliers like this. And we're just gonna try to squeeze that outer tie rod end up against here. Try to reset that stud into the knuckle. Now I'm gonna continue on by loosening this. If you wanted to apply a little bit of heat to your nut, it might be helpful as well. Obviously, if your tie rod's in the same condition as ours, where the boot's just pretty much completely ruined slash gone, just go ahead and replace your outer tie rod end. All right, let's get this out of here.
Now it's time to get our ABS wire disconnected. Now we need to separate the knuckle from the actual strut itself. To do that, we're gonna remove these 18-millimeter nuts, and then push out these bolts. Get this out of the way. I'm just gonna start these back on so we don't damage the threads of the bolts. Now let's continue with a hammer. Give these a couple loving bonks. If you want to use a little bit of penetrant, it's probably a great idea. Now let's separate the two of these. Push in on that axle a little bit.
Now, with the bracket loose, I can see these right here. I'm just gonna give them a nice squeeze, see if I can get it to break free from the actual bracket itself. There we are. We'll set this aside. So now we can turn the knuckle any direction we want, and we can fully access these bolts. That's great. Use your 13-millimeter, remove all three. Let's take one of our bolts. We're gonna put it right through here with the knuckle in there. Let's spray down the area with some penetrant. Continue on with your hammer. Give this a couple bonks. We need to break it free from the knuckle.
Looks like it's barely starting to move. Now that we've got it starting to come off, let's remove that bolt. Continue on. There it is, friends. It's important to take a look inside the knuckle area. If you see any of this, like what I have here, that means that your bearing separated upon removal, and we need to continue getting the rest of it out. Now we need to clean up the mounting area for the new bearing. If you were to look along this area right here, I can see a lot of corrosion and a lot of raised areas. I need to make sure that this is nice and smooth, but we don't want to stop there. We need to continue on to this inner surface here, and make sure we get rid of any of the underlying corrosion that's there as well.
Once you have the area cleaned up, go ahead and use a little bit of copper never seize along all the areas that you just cleaned. Let's clean up the threads on the bolts. I always like to use a little bit of thread locker. We'll call it your prerogative. Now we're gonna take those bolts, the backing plate, and our brand new wheel bearing, and get ready for our install. First, I'm gonna take the backing plate, I'm gonna line it up just like this. You want to make sure that the slotted area is where your caliper is gonna go. Take your wheel bearing, carefully put it through, but you want to make sure that the wire area is facing up and out towards the rear of the vehicle. Make sure it's not caught on anything, of course. Line up all three holes, close as possible at least, and then start in all three bolts. We'll snug them up, and then we'll torque them to manufacturer specifications.
Okay. All three of those are snug. Now we're gonna torque them. Torque this to 85 foot-pounds. Something that we need to pay attention to before we go ahead and reinstall the knuckle up here is the corrosion that comes right along this area. If you have any corrosion along your knuckle, just make sure you get that off. I always like to put a tiny bit of copper never seize inside the bearing where the axle's gonna go. Let's get the axle back inside the bearing here. There we are. Bring the knuckle up, and now we're gonna start in our bolts. These bolts are gonna go from the front towards the rear. Let's get our ABS wire on here. Start on both of these nuts. We'll bottom them out, and then we'll torque them to 89 foot-pounds.
Connect in your ABS wire. Make sure it clicks in and locks, and then secure it right here. Let's put in our tie rod. Go ahead and put that nut on there. Now I'm gonna snug it up, and then we'll torque it to manufacturer specifications. Let's torque this to 18 foot-pounds. And now we need to turn it an additional 90 degrees, which basically means a quarter turn. So I'm gonna start my ratchet right here, and then I'm gonna come right along so it looks like this. That's pretty decent. If your tie rod stud has a castle nut like this, you want to make sure that the castle nut slot is lined up with the stud itself. Go ahead and put through a cotter pin if you have one, and of course, lock it in.
Next, we're gonna put on our axle nut. If you want to use a little bit of thread locker, we'll call it your prerogative. We'll bottom this out, and then we'll torque it to manufacturer specifications. The best way to torque this is to go ahead and take a nice long pry bar like this, put it flat across the studs, that way there the hub can not turn. Now we're gonna torque this to 159 foot-pounds. Torqued. Let's go ahead and put a little bit of copper never seize on our hub.
Time to install the rotor. And I always like to hold it on with a lug nut. That way, there can't wiggle around. Let's go ahead and get the bracket on here. I always like to use a little bit of thread locker on my bolts. Start them both in, we'll snug them up, and then we'll torque them to manufacturer specifications. Torque these to 96 foot-pounds. Go ahead and carefully put this in here. Put on the outer pad as well. Now we're gonna slide this right over the sliders, and of course, over the pads. Line up those sliders. We'll put in our slider bolts.
Now we're just gonna bottom these out, and then we'll torque them to 26 foot-pounds. Make sure you clean down your entire braking surface, just in case you have any fingerprints on it. All right. Let's just double-check everything that we fixed here. Looks great. We'll get the wheel up on. We'll start all the lug nuts, snug them up, and then we're gonna torque them to 100 foot-pounds. All right, 100 foot-pounds. Torqued.
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Tools used
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Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video we're going to show you how to replace the front wheel hub on a 2007 Pontiac G6. It's fundamentally the same operation for a 2005 through 2010, and it is the same operation for left to right side. In order to do this procedure you're going to need a jack and jack stands; 35, 19, 15, 14, 13 millimeter sockets; socket wrench and extension; a hammer; screwdriver; and a breaker bar with the pipe for extra leverage if you don't have air tools.
Use a 19 millimeter socket by hand, to remove the plastic lug nut covers. Forward while I take those off. Now, remove the wheel and tire. If you don't have air tools start with the wheel on the ground, loosen the lug nuts, then raise and secure the vehicle, and remove the wheel and tire.
You want to remove the axle nut. I'm using an impact wrench, and what you can do is, if you don't have an impact wrench, have somebody hold the brakes and use a breaker bar and a 35 millimeter socket and probably even a pipe for extra leverage to loosen it up.
By hand turn the hub assembly so that you can gain better access behind it. Use a 14 millimeter socket socket wrench and remove the two bolts that hold the caliper to the caliper bracket. I'll fast forward through removing those two 14 millimeter bolts. Pull the caliper up and off of the caliper bracket and put it up into the side. Take a screwdriver and pry the pad away from the rotor. Do that for both the inner and outer pad.
Using a 15 millimeter socket and socket wrench remove the two bolts that hold the caliper guide to the spindle assembly. I'm going to fast forward as I take out those two 15 millimeter bolts. Pull the caliper bracket up and out. Remove the brake rotor.
Make sure your axle is free from your hub. Put the hub nut on, give it a couple of wraps, watch closely the relationship of the axle to the hub and you should see it move, and then you know it's free. On the inside of the hub and spindle assembly you're going to find three bolts. Locate those too, one on the top and then two on the bottom. Use a 13 millimeters socket, socket wrench, and extension, if you need to, and remove the three bolts. I'm going to fast forward as I remove the front and top one. Then, go ahead and remove the one on the back side. Here I'm using a hammer, where I'm going to tap at the back edge of the wheel hub. Once I've got that, I'll be able to pull it out. Make sure while you're doing that that you maybe give it a little tap or two to the end of that of your axle so that that goes through, but be careful not to damage any of the threads on it. Then once you got that out go ahead and pull it out and take off your backing plate.
I've got the old part, and the new part from 1A Auto and it's a direct replacement fit. You see we put the new hub in place with the backing plate behind it and started the bolts in by hand. Now I'm going to finish tightening those bolts with my socket and socket wrench. Again, I will go ahead and fast forward through that. Now, you're going to want to reinstall the nut on the end of the axle. I'm going to go ahead and use an air gun with this and I'll fast forward.
Our brakes were fine so we're going to reinstall them. But if yours needed to be replaced go ahead and put your new rotor on. Then you can use a lug nut to keep it pressed against the hub while you finish up the brake work. I'm going to reposition the wheel so that I can get access to the back of it. Before I go ahead and put that caliper bracket back on I want to make sure that slides are well greased, so I pull them out with the boot, check to make sure that this grease on them. If there isn't, I will do that. Then, go ahead and push that boot back on to the caliper bracket. I'm going to do that for both of those just to make sure everything is good. Then I'm going to go ahead and put that caliper bracket back with the 15 millimeter bolts. I'm going to fast forward as I reinstall those two 15 millimeter bolts. I'm going to torque the two 15 millimeter bolts to approximately 65 foot-pounds.
Take your pads and lube up with a little brake grease the ends that will get in contact with those calipers slide brackets, and then go ahead and slide them into place. Now, go ahead and take your caliper and slide it over the brake pads and onto the caliper bracket, lining it up with the two slides top and bottom. Reinstall the bolts that hold the caliper and the caliper bracket. I'm going to go ahead and fast forward through that. Torque the two caliper bolts to roughly 35 foot-pounds.
Reinstall the wheel. Put the lug nuts on by hand first, just to make sure you don't cross thread them. Then tighten them preliminarily. I'm going to torque the five lug nuts to roughly 100 foot-pounds and I'm going to do it in a star pattern. Torque that axle nut, the 35 millimeter axle nut, to 159 foot-pounds. Now reinstall your hubcap. I'm going to do that with that 19 millimeter socket. I'm just going to screw them in by hand. Also, you want to make sure that you line up the valve stem with the notch in the hub cap for the valve stem. I'll go ahead and fast forward through that.
Last but not least, whenever you have your brakes apart, make sure you pump the pedal. Make sure it's nice and firm before road testing.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
