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Part Details
TRQ brake kits are designed to restore your brake system to like-new performance. TRQ brake pads are positive molded, thermal scorched, chamfered, and utilize a multi-layer shim for enhanced performance and service life. TRQ rotors have a non-directional finish that reduces the break-in period for new rotors as well as reducing vibrations throughout the rotor’s lifecycle. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Product Features
Premium Positive Molded Brake Pads Features and Benefits
Item Condition:
New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and the next time you need a part for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to remove, inspect, and replace front brake pads and rotors on a 2007 Pontiac G6. It's fundamentally the same from 2005 to 2010, and from the left side to the right side. The items that you are going to need are jack and jack stands, 19mm, 15mm, and 14mm socket and ratchet, flat blade screwdriver, C-clamp, and some brake grease.
Remove the plastic caps on the lug nuts with a 19mm socket. I'll fast-forward as I take those all off. Use a 19mm socket and socket wrench. If you have an air tool, go ahead and use that. You're going to remove the five lug nuts, and I'll fast-forward through that.
By hand, turn the hub assembly so that you can gain better access behind it. Doing a general front brake inspection, look through the window to see how much thickness is on the inside pad. Check your rotor. Run your finger along and check for any deep grooves or gouges. Then, check the outer pad thickness from where I'm pointing.
Use a 14mm socket and socket wrench, and remove the two bolts that hold the caliper to the caliper bracket. I'll fast-forward through removing those two 14mm bolts. Pull the caliper up and off of the caliper bracket and put it up and to the side.
Take a screwdriver and pry the pad away from the rotor. Do that for both the inner and outer pad. Remove the upper and lower metal brake pad guides. Using a 15mm socket and socket wrench, remove the two bolts that hold the caliper guide to the spindle assembly. I'm going to fast-forward as I take out those two 15mm bolts. Pull the caliper bracket up and out. Remove the brake rotor.
Our brakes were fine, so we're going to reinstall them. Go ahead and put your new rotor on. Then you can use a lug nut to keep it pressed against the hub while you finish up the brake work. I'm positioning the caliper so that I can use a C-clamp to push the piston back into the caliper. You can do this with a C-clamp, or you can do it with a pair of large water pump channel lock style pliers. What you're going to want to do is put the screw clamp onto the piston, tighten it, which forces the piston back into place.
I'm going to reposition the wheel so that I can get that access to the back of it. Before I go ahead and put that caliper bracket back on, I want to make sure that the slides are well greased. I'll pull them out with the boot, and check to make sure that there's grease on them. If there isn't, I will do that, and go ahead and push that boot back onto the caliper bracket. I'm going to do that for both of those just to make sure everything is good. Then, I'm going to go ahead and put that caliper bracket back on with the 15mm bolts. I'm going to fast-forward as I reinstall those two 15mm bolts. I'm going to torque the two 15mm bolts to approximately 65 foot-pounds.
Clean up the metal slides that you took off the caliper bracket with a wire brush. Then reinstall them to both the top and bottom. Take your pads and lube up with a little brake grease the ends that will get in contact with those caliper slide brackets, and then, go ahead and slide them into place. Go ahead and take your caliper and slide it over the brake pads and onto the caliper bracket, lining it up with the two slides, top and bottom.
Reinstall the bolts that hold the caliper to the caliper bracket. I'm going to go ahead and fast-forward through that. Torque the two caliper bolts to roughly 35 foot-pounds.
Reinstall the wheel and tighten up the lug nuts. I'm going to use an air gun, so I will fast-forward through this. I'm going to torque the five lug nuts to roughly 100 foot-pounds, and I'm going to do it in a star pattern. Now, reinstall your hub cap, and I'm going to do that with that 19mm socket, and I'm just going to screw them in by hand.
Also, we want to make sure that you line up the valve stem with the notch in the hub cap for the valve stem. I'm going to fast forward through tightening that up.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
Tools used
Okay, friends. Before we get started, make sure you safely raise and support your vehicle so your wheel is off the ground. Once you've done that, we're gonna remove all five of our 19-millimeter lug nuts. Remove your wheel.
Just to say, we're going to be servicing a lot of things on the front end of this vehicle, so if you see anything that's taken apart, that isn't necessarily in the steps that you need to see. Well, just don't really pay too much attention to that and just follow the steps ahead. All right. Now that we've got the wheel off, let's go ahead and remove the caliper bolts from the caliper bracket sliders. Using a small pry bar, I'm just going to get right in between here and see if I can apply a little bit of pressure and push back this caliper a tiny bit. You can use a wire tie or even a bungee cord. Let's get our pads out of here. Remove your caliper bracket bolts, one here and one up here. Hold that bracket. Now, we're going to remove the rotor. If you notice yours didn't want to come off, you could, of course, give it a couple loving bonks to break it free from the bearing. Before we can go ahead and put on our brand new rotor, you obviously want to clean up the mating surface. You definitely don't want any of this raised area. So, we're just going to sand it down. We'll make it look like it's brand new and we'll continue. Let's go ahead and clean up the rotor braking surfaces. Let's go ahead and put a little bit of copper never-sieze on our hub. Time to install the rotor. And I always like to hold it on with a lug nut. That way there it can't wiggle around.
Now, it's gonna be time to prep our bracket. Let's get everything off of it that doesn't need to be on there. Grab these tins, recycle those. Turn the bracket like this, and remove your sliders. When you remove them, you always want to inspect them. Make sure they're not rotted or pitted in any way. I always like to try to clean them off real quick. This one looks great. I'll set it to the corresponding side. Remove the other one. If you look at this one, you're going to see it has a nice little rubber bushing. If you were to switch this with the other side, you're going to potentially have braking issues. So, always try to make sure you have them on the same side. Some caliper brackets you can try to remove the boot. This one's actually a little bit harder and it actually damages the boot overall. So, if your boots are in good condition after you've inspected them and they're not cracked or damaged in any way, I would just continue on by cleaning out the holes the way I'm going to show you now.
At this point, you're definitely gonna want to have a collection bucket, hand protection, and eye protection. I always have it on at all times, but I'm just gonna mention it. Spray a little bit of parts cleaner inside these holes. Just be careful because fluid will come out. Take a nice bore brush, go right inside there. This is going to clean out any of the debris or gunk that's inside there. Go ahead and dump that out. Nasty. Let's give it a nice rinse. Empty that out. At this point, we need to wait for it to dry. I'm going to keep moving while it dries though and I'm going to clean up these areas of the brackets. The reason why we want to clean up these areas of the brackets is because that's where the tins are gonna ride. On top of the tins is where the pads are. If you have any rot or rust buildup underneath there, it's going to cause an issue with the pads moving inside the bracket, which would be very bad. Use a nice brush, give it a little scrape. If you find that there's large chunks that won't come off, you could try to use a screwdriver or a chisel of some sort. You want to make sure they're as smooth as possible. I have a little sanding disc tool right here that I like to use, so that's what I'm going to do.
The next thing we want to do is use some of our synthetic Moly Grease that came with our kit. I have a little brush here that I like to use. I'm going to go ahead and put it right on there on all those surfaces that I just cleaned up. The reason for adding this lubricant is for vibration dampening, noise reduction, and, of course, it'll keep moisture away from the metal. Something that I like to mention about the caliper sliders is when you're cleaning them, you want to pay special attention to this ridge right here. You want to make sure there's no debris in there or any rough edges. The reason for that is because it needs to connect right here with the boot and it needs to make a good connection and make sure that no moisture can make its way inside there. Once you're sure that you have it nice and clean, go ahead and use some more of that caliper Moly Grease. Go along the whole shaft of the slider and then, of course, make your way up and into that groove. That's gonna be super important. Go ahead and slide it into the corresponding hole. Make sure you did not mix up your sliders and then give it a nice spin just to make sure that the grease is situated. Let's do the same to the other one here. Once you have them both in, just give them a nice spin, and make sure they slide the way they should.
It's time to install our brand new tins. Go ahead and line it up. Squeeze it on there. Make sure it's completely secure. You definitely don't want this coming off. Do the same to both. Let's go ahead and get the bracket on here. I always like to use a little bit of threadlocker on my bolts. Start them both in. We'll snug them up and then we'll torque them to manufacturer specifications. Torque these to 96 foot-pounds. Now, it's going to be time to get our pads on here. But before we do that, we want to make sure that we put on our brake pad wear indicator. To do that, you need to take your pad that you're going to be placing on the inside and you want to pay attention to which corner we want to put it on. I want it to be on the lower half right here, so you can see where it's supposed to fit. Just go ahead and take that indicator and you might need to bonk it on there with something such as a hammer. Just be careful not to damage the meat of the pad. That looks pretty decent. It's completely situated. You want to make sure it's secure so it can't fall off. Go ahead and carefully put this in here. Should flow in there nice and easy. If it feels like you have to force it in or use a hammer, you didn't clean up your brackets enough. Put on the outer pad as well. Perfect.
Now, we need to prep the caliper itself. We're going to put a little bit of that caliper grease right along the metal part of the piston here and then along both of these ears. That's going to help with vibration, dampening and noise reduction overall. Now, we're going to slide this right over the sliders and, of course, over the pads Line up those sliders. We'll put in our slider bolts. Now, we're just going to bottom these out and then we'll torque them to 26 foot-pounds.
So, now, we just want to check the brake fluid level. Make sure it's at the maximum. If it isn't, use the recommended fluid, which is DOT 3 brake fluid. Make sure you close it completely because DOT 3 is hygroscopic and it'll absorb moisture. Make sure you clean down your entire braking surface just in case you have any fingerprints on it. All right. Let's just double-check everything that we fixed here. Looks great. We'll get the wheel up on. We'll start all the lug nuts, snug them up, and then we're going to torque them to 100 foot-pounds. One hundred foot-pounds. Torqued.
Tools used
