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1A Auto Lifetime Warranty
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Part Details
Specifications:
Note: For Yukon, Tahoe, and Suburban models: due variances in frames used throughout this year range, we ask you to measure original mount to verify fitment. Using a measuring tape and the attached image as a guide, measure the distance from A to B, B to C, & C to D. Following the contour of the bracket, from center to center.
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Item Condition:
New
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WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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Tools used
Okay, so we have removed the wheel just so we have a little bit more room to work. You don't necessarily have to.
One of the first things we're going to do is remove these 13-milimeter headed nuts. If you were to feel on the backside, you're also going to feel a 13-millimeter headed bolt end on the other side. So, we'll first get our socket on there. You might need to bonk it on there a couple times. Obviously, I have a lot of rust on mine. I've got my 13-millimeter wrench, put it up there. Let's see about removing this. Now we'll just do the same to the other one. Get that bolt out of there.
So, now it's going to be time to cut out the rivets. You have one here, one there. You're also going to have two right up here.
Okay, so now it's going to be time to get these rivets out. The way I'm going to do it is with this cutting wheel right here. You could also use a drill. Try to go straight up through, and then, of course, a hammer and a punch, and break it free. This works really well. If you have access to torches, you could, of course, use those as well.
If you wanted to, you could continue doing this until you get all the little pieces off. What I usually like to do is make a whole bunch of slices like this, and then I'll take an air chisel and just pop them all right out of there.
So, now I'm just going to use my air chisel with a nice chisel bit, and I'm going to get these out of here. Make sure you're wearing your safety protection, as always.
Perfect. Let's do the same to all the rest.
Nice. Now you can either use a hammer with a punch or, of course, an air chisel with a punch bit. We'll drive these right out of here.
Come on. There we go. Awesome.
It's time to get this unit up in here. Put it right up into the frame, just like that. Take your bolt. You can come through the top or through the bottom, however you want to do it. If you go like that, something to think about is you're going to have a little bit of a bolt sticking out. So, it's completely up to you. I'd rather go up and through, just like this.
So, now we're just going to use our 17-millimeter on the nut up there, 17-millimeter down here on the bolt, and we'll snug all these up.
So, the next thing we need to do is jack up the rear differential so we can bring the shock up to where it's going to mount into the mounting frame. All right, that's pretty close. I'm going to leave that just like that and grab my new bolts. Okay, let's snug them up.
Get our wrench up there. Let's torque this to 13 foot-pounds. That feels good. And do the same to the other one.
Let's get this out of here. If you did happen to remove the wheel, just go ahead and replace it, and then torque it to 120 foot-pounds
