Replaces
This part doesn’t fit a . Select from parts that fit.
1A Auto Lifetime Warranty
Frequently bought together
Part Details
Product Features
Item Condition:
New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
FREE Shipping is standard on orders shipped to the lower 48 States (Contiguous United States). Standard shipping charges apply to Hawaii and Alaska.
Shipping is not available to a P.O. Box, APO/FPO/DPO addresses, US Territories, or Canada for this item.
Expedited is available on checkout to the United States, excluding Alaska, Hawaii.
Final shipping costs are available at checkout.
Created on:
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com your source for quality replacement parts and best service on the internet.
Hi, I'm Mike Green. I'm one of the owners at 1AAuto. I want to help you save time and money repairing or maintaining your vehicle. I'm going to use my 20+ years experience restoring and repairing cars and trucks like this to show you the correct way to install parts from 1AAuto.com. The right part installed correctly that's going to save you time and money. Thank you and enjoy the video.
In this video we're going to show you how to change the front brakes on this 2002 GMC 2500 HD, pretty much the same as any 2000-2006 and even some '07, the 2500HD as well as the 2500 both GMC as well as Chevy Silverado. Tools you'll need are: A jack and jack stands, various millimeter sockets with a ratchet, an extension, a breaker bar or metal pipe for some leverage if you don't have impact tools like I have in the video, penetrating oil, a large screwdriver or pry bar, a wire brush, two 10 m x 70 mm long standard thread bolts, anti seize lubricant, and a large C-clamp and a piece of wood.
Okay, so you'll want to remove your caps 21 mm, do this carefully. Okay, we'll fast forward a little bit and we'll use fast forward quite a bit for these monotonous parts. If you don't have air tools you'll want to loosen the lug nuts with the tire on the ground, then jack up and support with jack stands under your vehicle. We're using a 22 mm. Okay, and we'll fast forward here again as we remove the rest of the lug nuts and remove the tire from your vehicle. You can see here I go to the other side and just turn the wheel, you can also just use your steering wheel, this allows you access to the back easier. Okay, so you want to inspect your brakes and you can see the face of this rotor is nice and smooth, if you run the back side of your fingernail up and down it, it looks pretty good. Then there's, you can actually see, probably, you can see right here when you move, you can see that moving part to the rotor, just to the left of it that's your brake pad, which it looks like there is pretty good life and this right here is your other brake pad and again, it looks like pretty good life. But, if you come down here and we look up in here and look at the surface of the rotor in here one, I can see some pitting which I don't like, and then there's a pretty good groove on this here so I'm going to remove the calipers and the rotors.
To remove the calipers I'm going to start with these two bolts here, okay, this bolt and this bolt. Okay, I want to remove the bracket to remove the rotor or the disk, I'm going to move this bolt and this bolt down here. I'm just going to take a big screwdriver, put right in here, and then slowly pry out. Okay, and that does two things it resets the pistons and also loosens it up so that the caliper comes right off.
The bolts are 18 mm, so a breaker bar is your best tool and if you only have a ratchet what you can do is take a piece of pipe and put it on the end and that gives you more leverage. Then you can pull and loosen those up. I do have air tools so I'm going to use them. Pull your pins out here and you'll want to clean these up and re-grease them. My lower one is not coming out very easily. Okay, that was pretty dry so we really need to clean that up and grease it well. It's okay to use the screwdriver to pry the caliper to come off. Then you'll want to set that here. Then your pads come off easy enough. If you were just changing your pads, we just pull off like that. Now the bolts that hold this bracket on are 21 mm. So what you'll probably want to do is spray a bunch of penetrating oil on there. Another thing that will help is if you take a screwdriver and you clean as much of the scale and stuff right here, okay, after you scrape that out coat back here with the penetrate as well. And I did show doing that to one spot, what you want to do is spin the rotor around and scrape all the scale for the entire diameter of the rotar and also coat the entire circumference of the rotor.
Is some M10 metric bolts; these are 7 cm long and just thread them in these two holes. I'm going to use my impact wrench, so you're basically just going to tighten them up so you pull the rotor and it comes off. Then take your bolts back out of the rotor. We can see on this rotor there is some definite pitting issues and we're going to replace it. With the rotor off, we want to clean off the hub. I used a screwdriver to scrape some of the scale off and then a wire brush to clean up more of the rust and then we're going to use some anti seize and put it on there. You can also use some, just some motor oil or penetrate to seal it.
Okay, so here's our new rotor from 1A Auto, the exact same as the old one and it has the threaded holes so it will come apart and I put a bunch of anti seize in the inside and put it on here. Give it good tap and then I like to put a couple of lug nuts on just makes it easy to get the brakes all together. Okay, now I'm going to take the brake parts cleaner, cut a paper towel, make sure there's no grease or anything still on the rotor. If you don't have brake part cleaner, household rubbing alcohol will do the same thing. Okay, so here's our caliper brackets, okay the stainless steel slides here take the wire brush and just clean those and polish them up nice, not polish them but just clean them off.
Now, here without 21 mm bolts we're bolting the bracket back on to the backside of the steering knuckle. Do keep in mind that the bracket goes on the rotor side so we'll start these bolts. Tighten these up to 120 foot pounds. These shoes have thin shins on them so you want to put a little coat of silicone lubricant on them and then you want these wear tabs to be facing against the way the wheel is going, you basically want them facing down. So, you put this on.
Okay, so you remember our slide bolt that was dry? Take a screwdriver and kind of get any of the scale off of it. This one is borderline needing to be replaced actually. Okay, a little grease on it, make sure it's greased up well. Okay, what I've got here is a piece of wood on both pistons and then a large C-clamp and as I tighten it's going to force the pistons back into the caliper. Tighten it as much as you can and get those pistons seated as far down there as you can and your clamp goes over the wood and then your caliper will go down right over, but you need to kind of move the little boot around a little bit, and then your bolt you cleaned up and lubricated. So, the caliper still moves back and forth we want a little bit more, I'm going to put these up to 90 foot pounds.
Okay, we're going to speed it up here, as I straighten the wheels, remove those two lug nuts, a little bit of anti seize or you could just put some oil or something just to keep the wheel from seizing to the disk. And now put the wheel on start your lug nuts by hand first, then I use my 22 mm impact wrench just to tighten them up preliminarily. Okay, now with the truck on the ground I'm going to torch my lug nuts to 120 foot pounds. I'm going to use a crossing pattern and then just another key while I'm doing this, before you drive your vehicle make sure you pump your brakes a whole bunch of times until the pedal feels nice and firm. That works the cylinders or the pistons back to the set position and then just make sure your brakes hold the vehicle in gear and then do a stop from 5 mph and a stop from 10 mph before you go out and road test your vehicle.
We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com-- your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Please feel free to call us toll free: 1-888-844-3393. We are the company that serves you on the internet and in person.
Tools used
Tools used
I'm going to use a 22-millimeter socket, take off the lug nuts, so we can remove the wheel. And remove the wheel. I'm going to take these two caliper slide bolts out. I'm going to use an 18-millimeter socket. Get those free first, and slide those out. Now, I'll take a screwdriver, I'm just going to pry the pistons of the caliper in a little bit, just go in between the caliper and the rotor, make it easier to take the caliper off. Now you can take a brake caliper hanger and support the brake caliper itself, just hook it on the upper control arm, or fold the caliper over and just set it so that it doesn't fall. Just make sure there's no tension on the brake hose.
Now we can take the brake pads off. Just use a straight blade screwdriver. Pry them off. Now, we want to take the caliper bracket off. We're going to take these two bolts out. I'm going to use an 18-millimeter socket, loosen those up. Take those bolts out and slide the bracket off. Take the rotor off. If your rotor is stuck on there, you can take a hammer and just hit in these areas. Just be careful of not hitting the studs. Slide it off. Just take a little anti seize, and just wipe it on the hub surface. Just a nice, thin coat.
Take the new rotor. Just going to put it on backwards, first. Take some brake parts cleaner. Just clean the back side of the rotor. Use a rag, wipe it off. And flip it over, and clean the front side, and wipe it down. If you want to, you can put a lug nut on to hold the rotor on. Makes installing it a little bit easier. Keeps the rotor in place. All right. Just take the brake caliper bracket. Use a screwdriver, straight blade screwdriver. Slide these anti rattle clips off where the pad slides off. Take a wire brush, just clean off the rust on this area.
All right. Now, just take some brake caliper grease, and just put a little bit on the ears, where the pad slides are going to go. Take the new pad slides, line them up, press them on. And take a little caliper grease, just put a nice thin coat right here, and right here, and do the same on the other side. And, just slide the caliper bracket over the rotor.
Take the bolts. You can put some thread lock adhesive on them. Now we're going to torque these bolts to 129 foot-pounds. Now, I'm going to take the brake pads, put the brake pads on. Now the warning indicator for the inboard pad, the one that goes on the inside, is going to be at the bottom. There's only one. There's nothing on the top. The one that goes on the outside has both squealers or warning indicators. Slide those into position.
Now, I need to compress the pistons back into the caliper. You can use a piston compressing tool. They make different types of tools. This is a ratchet type. As I tighten this up, it's going to push the brake fluid...push the piston back into the caliper, which is going to push the brake fluid through the hoses, through the lines, and back up into the master cylinder. Just go nice and slow. You don't want to rush this. The slower the better.
All right, those pistons are compressed. Now slide the caliper over the brake pads. Now you can take the two brake caliper bolts, clean them off with some brake parts cleaner, just wipe them off. These aren't too bad. And just take some brake caliper grease, on the guide pins. Now install the caliper bolts, or guide pins, and torque those to 80 foot-pounds.
Now you can take this lug nut off and put the wheel back up. Now put the tire back on. And the lug nuts. I'm going to torque the lug nuts to 140 foot-pounds in a star pattern or in a cross pattern, so that it tightens the wheel down evenly. Just go around again, double-check.
Now after you're done, you want to make sure you pump up the brake pedal, nice and slow. There's going to be an air gap between the caliper piston and the brake pads. So just do that, until that feels pretty good. And then double-check your brake fluid level, and adjust accordingly.
Tools used
Tools used
Tools used
