Chevrolet GMC Cadillac Hummer Ceramic Brake Pads TRQ BFA73066

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Hi, I'm Mike Green. I'm one of the owners of 1A Auto. I want to help you save time and money repairing or maintaining your vehicle. I'm going to use my 20-plus years experience restoring and repairing cars and trucks like this to show you the correct way to install parts from 1AAuto.com. The right parts installed correctly: that's going to save you time and money. Thank you and enjoy the video.

In this video we are going to be showing you how to replace the rear brakes on this 2002 GMC 2500 HD, same as a Chevy as well, same as 2000 to 2007 both GMC and Chevy 2500 HDs. Tools you will need are 18 and 22mm sockets with your ratchet, and a breaker bar and pipe for more leverage. I also do show you a way to get leverage with an 18mm wrench and an additional wrench to hook to it, large regular screwdriver or small pry bar, a large hammer, small and small stubby regular screwdrivers, also a brake spoon for that part of the video would work, wire brush, bearing grease, small hammer and of course jack and jack stands.

Start out by removing your wheel. Carefully remove the plastic retainers and your center cap and then if you are working with hand tools you want to start with the vehicle on the ground, loosen the lug nuts, then raise it up and secure it, and then remove the lug nuts. I have the benefit of air tools here, so I removed the lug nuts and removed the tire.

So taking a closer look at our brakes, you can see our discs are really deteriorating here, so we are going to replace those, and you can see right in there, that pad, we had a little bit of life left and the other one looks like it's got more, but obviously we are going to replace the pads as well.

So to remove the calipers, here, what we are going to do is we are going to undo this 18mm bolt here and then the same one down here, an 18mm bolt. These are Torx screws, but this top one is very difficult to get to, so what we are going to do is we are going to take the bolts off and remove the whole caliper bracket and everything first. Before you unbolt it, what you can do is take a large screwdriver. I have a breaker bar here. Feed it right into this hole here and pry out and that forces the pistons back into the caliper. There is somewhat limited room here, so I put my 18mm wrench on there, take another wrench which gives me a little extra leverage, and if you have a breaker bar and a socket available then you can usually fit those in there as well. I am just showing you this as an alternative method. I can remove this bolt and it comes right off. The lower one is easier to get to so you can use the ratchet or breaker bar, or anything, or air tools. I will finish getting this out and you can bring the caliper up like that. I am going to fast forward here. Basically once you pull that bracket up, you just have to force the shoes down through the bracket and the biggest thing is there are little wear tabs that will get caught and you just make sure you bend those wear tabs in and the shoes will go down right through the bracket and you can pull the bracket right off.

Now, what we have here is we got our caliper. I got a big C-clamp and one of the old pads, so I am going to work this caliper with the C-clamp and push those pistons back in and I am going to wipe down these slide bolts. They look like they are in nice shape. Clean up the sticky stuff on them. Put on a little bit of new bearing grease. Make sure they're moving well.

Now I move this caliper, it's got a couple little locks to hold it on. You can either break these off or twist them off. They come off easily enough. Now I am just going to coat this with some penetrating oil. I already know my rotor is in tough shape, so I am not going to worry too much about hurting it, when I get them off. It actually came off really easily. You can hit it right back here where your caliper was and I have open space.

You saw my rotor come off really easy, but that is not always going to be the case. Sometimes your emergency brake might be adjusted so that the rotor doesn't come off very easily, so the first thing you might want to do is to have a short screwdriver, so I am talking with the rotor still on, you reach back here and you can see I am pulling that plug out. What you are going to want do is take another screwdriver or a little bit larger, but still a small screwdriver and go through the back side until you feel this wheel and then you are going to turn the wheel star down, which is bringing the screwdriver up, and that will basically loosen your emergency brake so your rotor will come off easier. So I have used some mineral spirits, and I've cleaned off my shoes for my emergency brake and I see that I got some oil on there and that probably means I've got bad axle seal, but this truck got 240,000 miles on it, so I am not that worried about it. I am going to use some anti-seize here. I'm probably never going to have to get this off again, but if I do have to get it off again now I know I can.

The new rotor from 1A Auto is in a lot better shape than the old one. It goes right on. I lightly secure with a couple of lug nuts and now I am going to take my small screwdriver, go in to the backside and tighten up the emergency brake adjuster, basically until I start feeling it give some friction to the wheel. I am going to fast forward through this. You do want to go on this side with the handle of your screwdriver up and then move it down, which moves the wheel up inside the rotor and it is kind of trial and error. Sometimes you can move it one way and you don't tighten it and then move it the other way and you do tighten it. It takes a little longer, but adjust them until you have good friction from the shoes and then make sure you replace that rubber dust plug.

Here is my bracket for my brake shoes and what I am going to do is just take these stainless steel slides with a wire brush on them and clean them all up. Get all this dirt off of them. Here are new pads from 1A Auto. You can see a little bit more life then the old pads that were on there. So we got our caliper with slide bolts cleaned and well-greased. This can be the problem with these trucks if these dry out and get dirt in them or whatever, the calipers actually seize up and your rear brakes do not even work, so if that the case you may want to replace these slide bolts, but you definitely want to get them out, clean them up and if you have to wire brush them and make sure you get a good amount of grease back on them. I've got my shoes right there. What I am going to do is take my bracket and just put a little tiny bit of that penetrating oil and that is not really going to make it slide, it is just to make it easier to get together. Put my brackets down on to the slide bolts, then into the shoes. Use a small hammer and looking at these carefully, make sure that the wear tabs go through correctly and also that your shoes are in the right spot here. It's just out there. Okay, that shoe is on. It may benefit you to take like a screwdriver or pry bar and just kind of, the shoe is getting stuck here on this slide a little bit. Push it into place and then lower it, and it looks like it could go in a little bit, push them into place a little bit and then it goes down on. You might have to shake it around a little bit before it goes in towards that bolt. Do the same down here. Get the lower bolt started and take out my lower bolt a little bit with the air wrench. I cannot really get a torque wrench down here, so I am going to just put my wrench back on here and tighten this up really good and it should be tightened to about 120 foot-pounds. We will use a torque wrench.

I am going to speed it up here as I remove those two lug nuts, then put the wheel on, hand thread my lug nuts at first, then use my air wrench just to tighten them up a little bit. Very important: you want to make sure before you test drive the vehicle you pump the brakes a bunch of times then make sure it stops from like five miles an hour and ten miles an hour before you road test.

Here again, fast forward as I have now put the vehicle on the ground and I am torquing the lug nuts to 120 foot-pounds using a crossing pattern and then I actually go around one-by-one afterwards just to check and make sure that they are all torqued, and then put your cap on and hand tighten the plastic retainers.

We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.

Just take this center cap off. Use a straight-blade screwdriver. Get behind here. Use a 22-millimeter socket to take the lug nuts off. Take the wheel off.

We're gonna take these two caliper bolts out. We're gonna use a T55 socket. I'm just going to tap them in, because this is pretty rusty. There we go. Cracked it free. I'll use the gun. That one came right out.

Slide those up. Take a straight-blade screwdriver. Just pry out on the caliper a little bit. Compress the piston and slide the caliper off. We have to flip it over. Good idea to attach it somehow, so it doesn't fall. But if you can get it to sit right there, that's good. And just take the old brake pads off.

Use an 18-millimeter socket. Take these two caliper bracket bolts off. These are normally on there pretty tight. There we go.

All right. Those are broken free. Take those out.

Grab the brackets. Slide it right off.

Grab the rotor. Slide it off. If it doesn't come off that easy, take a hammer and just hit in these areas. Just try not to hit the studs.

Now we're gonna clean up this bracket. Just take a straight-blade pocket screwdriver. Get these clips off. And there's a lot of rust underneath here. Take a wire brush, clean this up. If you have to you can use a file. Just be careful. You don't want to take too much material off.

And take some brake caliper lubricant, and just wipe that down. Brake caliper grease, right there and right there. And take the new caliper slides or anti-rattle clips. Put those on there.

Line it up. Find the right one. Put it on there. Then put a little more brake caliper grease on here. Just a thin coat, just where the pads are gonna make contact.

We ended up replacing the hub, but if you have your old hub on here and it's rusty, take a wire brush. Just clean these areas. Make sure it's smooth.

Take a little bit of anti-seize. Just go around the hub, mostly around the center here, and spread it out, a nice, thin coat.

I'm just gonna take the rotor, put it on backwards. I'm just gonna clean this surface. Use a little brake parts cleaner. I'm gonna wipe it with a rag. There's just that protective coating on there to prevent it from rusting. And flip it over. Do the same on this side and wipe it down.

Now take the old caliper bolts. I'll just put a little thread-locking compound on there, and line the caliper bracket up. It goes this way. And put the bolts in. Get those lined up.

And use a torque wrench and torque these to 129 foot-pounds. Good.

Now install the new brake pads. Now, the warning indicator on the inside is gonna go at the bottom, in just one, not one at the top. And just slide that into position, and the outside one will have both.

That's good. Now I'm gonna compress the caliper. Use a caliper compressing tool. If you have to, use the old brake pad to help you. And just go slow. You don't want to push these in too fast. This is gonna push the brake fluid through the hoses, through the lines, back up into the master cylinder.

All right, those are compressed. Take the tool out. Just make sure the seals look good, the dust seals. And those look good. Now put the caliper back over the pads. Line it into the bracket.

Take the brake caliper pins. Just use a little brake parts cleaner on them. Wipe them off. Get some brake caliper grease. Grease them up and slide the pins back in position. Get them started and tighten them down.

Now I'm gonna torque these bolts to...these caliper guide pins to 80 foot-pounds. There we go.

Then put the wheel back up. Put the lug nuts on.

Now I'm gonna torque these lug nuts to 140 foot-pounds in a star pattern to tighten the wheel down evenly. And just go around again, double check.

Install the center cap. Now just pump the brake pedal. There's gonna be an air gap between the caliper piston and the brake pads. Pump that up. Just go slow, and once it feels good, then you're all set.

And double check your brake fluid level in the brake reservoir. The max line is right there. If you give it a little shake, our fluid is right about there.

All right. So one of the first things you need to do is safely raise and support the vehicle. Once you've done that, you're going to remove all six of your lug nuts. Remove your wheel. Now, the next thing that we would want to do is take a look at our caliper right here. Look all around it to make sure you don't see any moisture coming out. If you see moisture coming out of it, more than likely it's got a fluid leak. Assuming it looks like it's in good condition, we're going to go ahead and push back the piston a little bit. Grab your small pry bar. Come right in between the caliper and up against the pad if you can, or even the rotor. And then we're just going to carefully slowly push this back.

Once your caliper is off, take a good look. Make sure you don't see any moisture coming around these boots right here. If you see any moisture, you have a brake leak, you need to replace your caliper. Now we can grab onto those pads. We'll take them right off of here and just take a nice look. This one has plenty of meat all the way around. It's not damaged in any way. If anything, I could use a little bit of parts cleaner, but that's about as much as I would go. Let's take a look at this one. That looks perfect as well. If they were worn at an angle or anything like that, there would be an issue that you'd need to diagnose. Let's get this bracket off of here to remove the rotor. Now, before we go ahead and get our new rotor up on, we want to make sure that we clean up the hub area of the bearing that's going to mate against the new rotor. So it's nice and clean. You don't want any raised areas. The next thing you need to do is clean up the rotor braking surface. Let's use some copper never seize right here on the hub.

Let's get the rotor back up on here. Now we're going to use one lug nut, screw it all the way on so it holds the rotor from moving around. The next thing we're going to need to do is push back the brake caliper. To do that, you can either open up this bleeder screw right here, and you take a risk, of course, breaking it either going in or out, or you can just go ahead and turn the caliper around. I like to use a pad and then you would just use something to squish this down and force those pistons back down and in. This is a tool that works great for the job. Let's put it in here. As I crank, it's going to spread and it's going to push back those pistons. I'm going to do this nice and slow. You'll notice this is pushing in both pistons at the same time. If you tried to push in one piston at a time, more than likely the other piston is going to want to come out.

So now we just need to take a peak along here and just double-check those boots. Make sure that they're not swollen or pushed out or ripped or torn in any way and there's definitely no leakage. These look great. So what I'm going to do is I'm going to continue on by using a little bit of caliper grease, and I'm going to go right along the mating surfaces, where the caliper is going to touch directly against the brake pad. All right. So we made our way over to the bench with the caliper bracket because it's time to start cleaning it up and preparing it for installation. Let's grab our small pocket screwdriver or pretty much anything you got that you can grab onto this area right there and remove the 10. Do the same to the other side. Next, we're going to move along to cleaning up this area right here, all the areas that you saw that this 10 was riding against. So if you see any rust buildup, make sure you clean it down.

You can use a nice wire brush and try to get in there. Spend some time. You could use your screwdriver, scrape it all up or, of course, you can use a nice sanding grinding wheel and clean it up good. You just want to be careful not to take off too much of the material of the actual bracket. Okay. So we cleaned up those areas great. Both sides of the caliper bracket look decent. Something that I did happen to notice that I want to mention to you is all this extra rot that's built up everywhere, there's a possibility that any of this could flake off and get into your braking systems, such as in between your pad and rotor, which could of course cause an issue. So just take a little punch or chisel or prybar or whatever you got, and just kind of try to get some of this crud off of here. So we got off the majority of the rust off this thing. Now we're going to clean out the inside there. Use one of these bore brushes.

So now that we have this as clean as we can get it, right out here and on the inside where those sliders are going to go, we're going to use some of this moly grease or caliper grease, and I'm going to go along the areas that we just finished sanding down. Now we have our 10s. You'll notice that you have a side that's a little thicker and a thinner side. If you were to look at the bracket, you can see exactly how it needs to go. The thicker side is going to be the side facing the boot. Go and slide it up against there and then lock it in. Do the same to the other side.

Making our way back over to the vehicle, the next things that we need to do is clean up slider bolts here and of course get all the thread locker off of our mounting bolts. Now that I have these cleaned up, let's continue on by installing the caliper. Let's grab our bracket and our two bolts. I like to use a little bit of thread locker on them, but we'll call it your prerogative. Go ahead and slide that in. Start in those bolts, we'll snug them up, and then we're going to torque them to 139 foot-pounds. You're going to notice that one of your pads has two of these brake wear indicators and then the other one's going to have one. The pad that has two goes on the inside.

The outer pad on there. Let's grab the caliper, slide it right down over here. Be careful for these boots. You want to make sure that they're lined up with the hole so the slider can go through. Perfect. At this point, we're going to add some lubricant to the sliders. When we're going to add it, we're going to put it along here all the way up to there, but you don't need to get it up onto the threaded area. Let's go ahead and put those in there. Bottom these out, torque them to 80 foot-pounds. The next thing that I would want to do is pump up the brake and make sure everything's functioning properly. You also pump up the brake for safety so that way there, when you get inside the vehicle, after you've done this job, you will have a brake pedal. Now that we've pumped up the brake, I just want to check that brake fluid real quick. Now let's go ahead and get this off of here and we'll get the wheel on. Now let's go ahead and torque our lug nuts to 140 foot-pounds. Center cap, go ahead and pop it on there.

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Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and the next time you need a part for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.

In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the brakes on this 2002 Chevy Suburban. The items you'll need for this include a new brake pad and rotor kit from 1AAuto.com, an 18mm and 22mm socket and ratchet, a piece of pipe for extra leverage, a T55 Torx bit, a large C-clamp, a torque wrench, a wire brush, jack and jack stands, brake cleaner, and brake grease.

You want to just loosen up these 22mm caps, and then pull the hubcap free. Then you want to loosen these lug nuts while the vehicle's on the ground, then raise the vehicle and remove them the rest of the way, unless you have air powered tools, then you can do it while it's in the air, and then just remove the wheel. You want to check for any deep groves in your rotor. You want to check in here for the life of your brake pads and over here for the life of the other one. You can see ours is actually in decent shape.

There's two T55 Torx bolts that you need to remove. We'll fast forward as we use a T55 Torx bit and a ratchet to remove those. Then, using a large C-clamp, just put it back behind the caliper here, and the other part right here on the brake pad, and just twist this in. This is going to push your caliper piston in and make it easier to pull the caliper off. Just remove the C-clamp and lift your caliper up and off and set it aside. Using a flat blade screwdriver, just pry out your brake pad. Sometimes the brake pads can be stuck in there. Use a flat blade screwdriver and a hammer to pry it free. You want to remove these two 18mm bolts on your caliper bracket.

You can see we use a piece of pipe for some extra leverage, here. We'll just fast forward as he breaks the other one free and removes both of these bolts. Now, slide the rotor off. On the left is the old rotor and brake pads, on the right are the new ones from 1A Auto. You can see they're identical and they'll fit exactly the same.

Spray your new rotor with brake cleaner and just wipe it down. Do the same thing to the back. Now, apply brake grease to the tabs on either end of your brake pads. Using your wire brush, just clean up those brake slides on your caliper bracket. Push your rotor back into place and then twist on a lug nut. This will hold the rotor in place. Turn the wheel and put the caliper bracket back in to place. Replace those two 18mm bolts. We'll fast forward as Don does this and tightens both of those up. Torque both of these to 75 foot-pounds.

Push your new brake pads into place. Use a hammer if necessary to lightly tap that into place. Using an old brake pad, just put it onto the caliper pistons and then tighten it in with your C-clamp. This will just push those pistons in the rest of the way. Grease up your caliper bolts. Out the caliper back into place and slide those slide bolts back in. We'll just fast forward as Don tightens those up. You'll want to tighten these to about 30 foot-pounds.

Now, replace your wheel and then replace those lug nuts and tighten them preliminarily, lower the vehicle, and tighten them the rest of the way. Torque the lug nuts in a crossing pattern to 100 foot-pounds. Replace the hubcap and tighten up those caps. After doing work on your brakes, you want to pump the brake pedal until it firms up and then try a stop test from five miles per hour and ten miles per hour, and you're all set.

We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.

Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.

Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.

In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the front brakes on this 2005 GMC Savana 2500. It's a similar process on the Chevy Express. The items you'll need for this is a new break set from 1A Auto, 18mm, 21mm, 22mm socket and ratchet, a breaker bar and a piece of pipe for leverage, a flat blade screwdriver, penetrating oil, a hammer, large C-clamp, white grease, torque wrench, and jack and jack stands.

Start off by removing the wheel cover or whatever wheel trim you might have. This one has a chrome one. Pull that off, and then just use your socket and pull or loosen the lug nut covers. Pull the center cap off. If you don't have the benefit of air tools, you want to loosen the lug nuts with the vehicle on the ground, then jack up and secure the vehicle. Then remove the lug nuts, wheel, and tire.

Turn the wheel so that you can get to the brake. On the back of the caliper, there's two 18mm bolts. You just want to remove these. It can be a little difficult, so it helps to use a piece of pipe for extra leverage. We're just going to fast forward as he removes this.

The next step, you want to use a flat blade screwdriver to just pry the brake pads away from the caliper, and it will allow you to pry off that caliper. Just keep using the flat blade screwdriver, top and the bottom, you could see he's just going back and forth until, eventually, it will come off. You just want to set that aside.

Now, using the flat blade screwdriver, you just want to pry out your brake pads. Now on some vehicles, it's going to be more difficult than on others. It depends on the condition of the brakes. In this case, it takes just a little effort, and if you have to, you can use a hammer just be careful not to damage or bend anything. We're just going to fast-forward a little bit as he removes those brake pad slides.

There are two 21mm bolts back here that hold on this caliper bracket. Ours are a little rusted, so we spray them with some penetrating oil first, just to loosen them up and let that sit for a second. Then, using a breaker bar, and, actually, a piece of pipe for extra leverage, we just remove those bolts, and we're just fast-forwarding here as he does that. When you remove those bolts, the caliper bracket will come right off.

Now, you just want to take a hammer and hammer the back of that rotor. Just keep turning it and hammering the back of it, and it's going to come off. With the old rotor; the new rotor. New pads; same size. With this caliper guide, you can replace these boots . If they're torn, you pull them out and you push them in. The most important thing about the brakes here, what we found was the pedal was soft, it didn't feel like they should, and you'll notice that when these were sliding or weren't sliding and getting stuck on this corroded brake slide hardware, you know it's the new parts, allow the pad to slide just it should when they're new.

Now we're just cleaning up the new rotor real quick. What you want to do is you want to take some white grease and just put it on the clips of these new brake pads. Then, using a flat blade screwdriver, just scrape some of the corrosion on that caliper bracket. This will just help those slides to clip back on. Now, what you want to do is just clip those slides on, and as Don was saying: "They make a difference." New ones are definitely worth it and 1A Auto does sell these. This just clips right into place. We'll just push them down.

Now, what you want to do is just reset the pistons in this caliper. What you want to do is take one of your brake pads. If you're changing them, you want to use one of the old ones, and you want to lay it across these two pistons. Then, using a large C-clamp, as you tighten the clamp, that paddle push those pistons back in and reset them, as you can see here. Now they're reset.

Now we're just going to put on our brand new rotor, and once you get it into place, you just want to put one of those lug nuts on, and it will just hold it into place. We put the rest of the brakes together. Now you can put your caliper bracket back on, and, to place those bolts, you want to just do them first by hand. Then, once you get them lined up and both them in place, you can use a socket and ratchet to tighten them the rest of the way. Now you want to just torque those bolts to 100 foot-pounds.

Now you can put your brake pads back in. Now, for these caliper pens, what you want to do is you want to clean them off a little bit, and then put some white grease on them, this will help them so that they slide easier.

What you want to do, pull down your caliper and just fit it into place. Now you can see up here, you want that little gasket there to go in and you can slide your bolts back in. We'll fast-forward here as he tightens those up with a socket and ratchet. Torque these bolts to 100 foot-pounds. We're just going to fast-forward here as you remove that nut, put the wheel into place, and you just want to replace all those nuts and tighten them in a crossing pattern.

Again, if you don't have air tools, you just want to lower the vehicle and tighten those the rest of the way on the ground. Then you want to torque those lug nuts to 100 foot-pounds. Before actually driving the vehicle, you want to pump the brake until they're firm, and then you want to do a test, stopping from 5 mph then 10 mph.

We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.