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1A Auto Lifetime Warranty
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Part Details
TRQ suspension kits are manufactured using premium raw materials and coatings for extended service life. Each TRQ suspension component is designed to be a direct, maintenance-free replacement to the stock unit. To extend the life of your steering and suspension components, TRQ recommends replacing components in pairs, sets, or kits. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Product Features
Replacing struts used to require specialized tools to compress, remove, and transfer the old spring and mount. Our Pre-assembled, complete strut & spring assemblies come with all new parts and make the job much quicker and easier for the do-it-yourself mechanic.
Strut & spring assembly contains:
Our steering and suspension components are pre-greased and sealed for long life and do not require the extra maintenance typically required by greaseable versions.
Item Condition:
New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Chromium (Hexavalent Compounds), which is known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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Final shipping costs are available at checkout.
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Hi I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out. And the next time you need a part for your vehicle think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video we're going to show you how to replace the front struts on a 2006 Chevy Impala. It's the same operation for the left side and the right side and we always recommend that you do replace struts in pairs. In order to do this repair you're going to need some new struts from 1A Auto. A 21 and 19 and 13 millimeter socket and socket wrench. A hammer. A pry-bar. A pipe for extra leverage if you need it. As well as a torque wrench.
Remove the hubcap by hand using a 19 millimeter socket. If you don't have the benefit of air-tools you'll want to loosen the lug-nuts with the vehicle on the ground first. Then raise and support the vehicle and remove the lug-nuts from the tire. Locate the two 21 millimeter nuts. Using a 21 millimeter socket, a socket wrench and a pipe for extra leverage to remove the two nuts on the strut. I will go ahead and fast-forward as I remove those.
Use a hammer to knock free the two bolts that go through the strut and spindle. Use a long screw-driver or pry-bar to pry the spindle free from the strut. Locate and remove three 13 millimeter nuts on the strut-top. As you're removing the last nut, hold the strut so that it doesn't just come falling down. Here you see a side by side of the old part and the new part from 1A Auto. Going back in with the strut. Start from the bottom. Line up the three holes. And then start your three 13 millimeters nuts up top. Once you get them all started go ahead and tighten them up and I'll fast-forward as I do that. Now line up the strut with the spindle and match up the holes. You might have to pull down or push up on the spindle and hub assembly there to line them up. Go ahead and put in your two bolts. Then once you get the bolts in use a hammer to seat them into that spindle and lower strut assembly.
Now reinstall the two 21 millimeter nuts and go ahead and tighten them down. Torque the two nuts to a hundred foot pounds. Reinstall the wheel and the five lug-nuts. Torque your wheel lug-nuts to a hundred foot pounds. Once you're done torqueing the lug-nuts in a star pattern reinstall your hubcap. And make sure you see the little notch in the hubcap and put it over the valve-stem. And once you've done that you can start with just the socket itself tightening up those five 19 millimeter lug-nut cap-covers.
And after you replace your struts it is recommended that you get an alignment on your vehicle. We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free 888-844-3393. We're the company that's for you on the internet and in person.
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace a lower control arm on this 2003 Chevy Monte Carlo. We'd show you on the passenger side, but it's the same procedure on the driver side. The items you'll need for this include a new lower control arm from 1AAuto.com, 13mm, 14mm, 18mm, 19mm and 21mm socket and ratchet, T55 Torx bit, 14mm, 19mm, and 21 mm wrenches, pliers, flat blade screwdriver, hammer, ball joint fork, and Jack and Jack stands.
Start off by just loosening up these lug nut caps. Now, you can remove your lug nut. If you don't have air-powered tools, you want to loosen these up while the vehicle is on the ground, then raise the vehicle, and remove them the rest of the way. If you do have air-powered tools, you can just remove them right here, and you can just pull your wheel off.
Spray your sway bar link with some penetrating fluid to make it easier to remove. And then, using a 14 mm wrench and socket and ratchet, just remove the nut on top of the sway bar link. That actually comes apart easily. It's not uncommon, but sometimes the link is totally broken, and you don't even have to do this step. You just pull the remains out. Also, sometimes, they're frozen up so bad, you have to use a sawzall or a torch to cut the links out.Pull the top bushings off and push the sway bar link down and out, and then remove the bushings in the center.
Replace a couple of lug nuts to hold the rotor in place. Using a pair of pliers, remove this cotter pin at the top of your ball joint. Now, jack up underneath the wheel. Using a 19mm wrench and a hammer, just loosen up this castle nut. You want to loosen it until it's only on by a few threads. Now, hammer the knuckle, and the ball joint should loosen up, and you should be able to pull it down.
If this isn't the case, you're going to need a ball joint splitter or a ball joint fork and just hammer it in between the knuckle and the ball joint to separate them. Now, remove that nut the rest of the way, and then lower the jack. Next, you want to remove these two 21mm nuts. The bolt is actually a T57 head, which is a fairly rare tool. We actually get by using a T55 with two people. Just make sure you hold that T55 Torx bit in there well, and you can do it.
For this bolt, you want to use a 19mm socket and ratchet and a 21mm wrench to remove it. Now, pull those two bolts free, and then you can pull the control arm down and over. Then just pull out this last corner, you will have to maneuver it a little bit, it's in there pretty good usually. That will pull out, and then the control arm is free.
On the left is the old lower control arm; on the right is the new one from 1A Auto. You can see they're identical, and they'll fit exactly the same. Take your lower control arm and push in the ball joint side first, then curve it back and push in this side. Now, you want to turn this so that the hole through the bolt is on the side so you can get your cotter pin back through it. You want to just angle the ball joint up into the knuckle. You may have to move the knuckle a little bit. Once you have it pushed into place, replace that castle nut, line up the holes right here on the control arm, and push your bolt through. Jack up the knuckle and tighten that castle nut a little bit more.
Once you get it at an angle that you can get the bolt up through the ball joint, just push the bolt through. Hammer the other bolt through and replace the nuts on both. Tighten up that castle nut. Push your cotter pin through and bend the tabs in opposite directions. Be sure to bend it in a way that the cotter pin ends don't have a change of going up and scraping along the CV joint boot.
Now, tighten up this bolt, and tighten this bolt. Take your sway bar link and put the center bushings in first, and then run your sway bar link up through the bushings. Replace the top bushing and the washer and nut, and just twist that nut on. Once you have it on there securely, you want to lower your vehicle down on to the jack stands so that all the pressure is on the suspension, and then tighten up the sway bar the rest of the way.
Replace your wheel and each of the lug nuts. You want to just tighten them preliminarily, then lower the vehicle, and tighten them the rest of the way.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
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