Chevrolet Pontiac Saturn Front 4 Piece Suspension & Drivetrain Kit TRQ PSA64142

Okay, friends. The first thing you need to talk about anytime you're working on your vehicle is safety. You want hand and eye protection. With that said, safely raise and support your vehicle so the wheels are off the ground. Once you've done that, we're going to remove all five of our 19-millimeter lug nuts. Remove your wheel. Now that we have the wheel off, we have a clear view of our caliper and our rotor. What we need to do first is get the caliper out of the way and then we're going to remove the rotor. Looking at the backside of the caliper, you're going to see two mounting bolts, one located right here, and one located up top. Remove them both and get the caliper out of the way. Remove your caliper. Carefully set it aside. Let's go ahead and get the rotor off of here. And now, we have a clear view of our bearing. Coming from the backside of the bearing, you want to make sure that you remove your ABS wire and be very careful with it because it's extremely delicate. Grab this tab, pull it down, check your wiring. Make sure you don't see any funny colors.

Next, we're going to take some penetrant spray and spray down all of our mounting studs. I always like to go around the center as well. Now, we're gonna use a 15-millimeter socket and remove all four of our mounting nuts. Now, we're going to take a hammer and we're going to try to bonk from the backside of this and just try to help it out. Once it starts breaking free in one direction, we'll come from the other side a little bit and just keep going until it comes out. Looks like it started to move. Grab your bearing, remove your backing plate. There it is, friends. Now that's out of the way, let's clean up the mounting surface. Spray down the area with a little bit of copper never-seize. Before you install your backing plate, make sure you double-check both sides to make sure there's no raised areas that are going to be between mating surfaces. Once you're sure, go ahead and take your bearing, put it through the backing plate, put it through your knuckle, and then go around back and put on those mounting nuts. Little bit of threadlocker. Now, we're going to start on all the nuts. We'll bottom them out and then we'll torque them to 47 foot-pounds. Criss-cross.

Let's get our ABS wire reconnected. Click it in, give it a nice tug. It must be secure. Use some copper never-seize. Make sure you clean the backside of your rotor, where it's going to be mating up against this hub right here. Once you've done that, go ahead and put it on. I always like to start on a lug nut to hold the rotor from moving around. Let's grab the caliper, remount it on here. It's always a great idea to use a little bit of threadlocker on your bolts. Torque these bolts to 96 foot-pounds. Wheel up on here. We'll start on the lug nuts and then we'll torque them down to 100 foot-pounds. Let's torque these to 100 foot-pounds in a criss-cross manner. Torqued. Go ahead and pump up the brake pedal. Let's go ahead and check and top off our brake fluid.

Okay, friends, before we get started, make sure you safely raise and support your vehicle so your wheel is off the ground. Once you've done that, we're gonna remove all five of our 19-millimeter lug nuts. Remove your wheel. Just to say, we're gonna be servicing a lot of things on the front end of this vehicle, so if you see anything that's taken apart that isn't necessarily in the steps that you need to see, well just don't really pay too much attention to that, and just follow the steps ahead.

All right, now that we've got the wheel off, let's go ahead and remove the caliper bolts from the caliper bracket sliders. Using a small pry bar, I'm just gonna get right in between here and see if I can apply a little bit of pressure and push back this caliper a tiny bit. You can use a wire tie or even a bungee cord. Let's get our pads out of here. Remove your caliper bracket bolts, one here and one up here. Hold that bracket. Now it's gonna be time to get the rotor off of here. If you find that it's stuck on the bearing, just give it a couple loving bonks around this area here. Just be careful for your studs, and definitely don't hit the braking surface.

Now we're gonna use our 36-millimeter socket and remove our axle nut. I always like to spray down the area with some penetrant. So next, we need to push our axle out through our bearing. To do that, you never want to use the hammer directly on your axle, because you could peen over the threads, and of course, that's gonna cause an issue. What I would like to use is a center punch. Come right in the middle here, give it a couple loving bonks. If you don't have a punch, just go ahead and use the original nut here. Put it on there so it's pretty much flush, and then you can go ahead and give it a couple bonks that way. When you do that, you don't have to worry about damaging the threads.

Next, we need to remove our outer tie rod and nut. If you notice when you're trying to take off your outer tie rod and nut that the stud was just spinning inside your knuckle area, use some nice long pliers like this. And we're just gonna try to squeeze that outer tie rod end up against here. Try to reset that stud into the knuckle. Now I'm gonna continue on by loosening this. If you wanted to apply a little bit of heat to your nut, it might be helpful as well. Obviously, if your tie rod's in the same condition as ours, where the boot's just pretty much completely ruined slash gone, just go ahead and replace your outer tie rod end. All right, let's get this out of here.

Now it's time to get our ABS wire disconnected. Now we need to separate the knuckle from the actual strut itself. To do that, we're gonna remove these 18-millimeter nuts, and then push out these bolts. Get this out of the way. I'm just gonna start these back on so we don't damage the threads of the bolts. Now let's continue with a hammer. Give these a couple loving bonks. If you want to use a little bit of penetrant, it's probably a great idea. Now let's separate the two of these. Push in on that axle a little bit.

Now, with the bracket loose, I can see these right here. I'm just gonna give them a nice squeeze, see if I can get it to break free from the actual bracket itself. There we are. We'll set this aside. So now we can turn the knuckle any direction we want, and we can fully access these bolts. That's great. Use your 13-millimeter, remove all three. Let's take one of our bolts. We're gonna put it right through here with the knuckle in there. Let's spray down the area with some penetrant. Continue on with your hammer. Give this a couple bonks. We need to break it free from the knuckle.

Looks like it's barely starting to move. Now that we've got it starting to come off, let's remove that bolt. Continue on. There it is, friends. It's important to take a look inside the knuckle area. If you see any of this, like what I have here, that means that your bearing separated upon removal, and we need to continue getting the rest of it out. Now we need to clean up the mounting area for the new bearing. If you were to look along this area right here, I can see a lot of corrosion and a lot of raised areas. I need to make sure that this is nice and smooth, but we don't want to stop there. We need to continue on to this inner surface here, and make sure we get rid of any of the underlying corrosion that's there as well.

Once you have the area cleaned up, go ahead and use a little bit of copper never seize along all the areas that you just cleaned. Let's clean up the threads on the bolts. I always like to use a little bit of thread locker. We'll call it your prerogative. Now we're gonna take those bolts, the backing plate, and our brand new wheel bearing, and get ready for our install. First, I'm gonna take the backing plate, I'm gonna line it up just like this. You want to make sure that the slotted area is where your caliper is gonna go. Take your wheel bearing, carefully put it through, but you want to make sure that the wire area is facing up and out towards the rear of the vehicle. Make sure it's not caught on anything, of course. Line up all three holes, close as possible at least, and then start in all three bolts. We'll snug them up, and then we'll torque them to manufacturer specifications.

Okay. All three of those are snug. Now we're gonna torque them. Torque this to 85 foot-pounds. Something that we need to pay attention to before we go ahead and reinstall the knuckle up here is the corrosion that comes right along this area. If you have any corrosion along your knuckle, just make sure you get that off. I always like to put a tiny bit of copper never seize inside the bearing where the axle's gonna go. Let's get the axle back inside the bearing here. There we are. Bring the knuckle up, and now we're gonna start in our bolts. These bolts are gonna go from the front towards the rear. Let's get our ABS wire on here. Start on both of these nuts. We'll bottom them out, and then we'll torque them to 89 foot-pounds.

Connect in your ABS wire. Make sure it clicks in and locks, and then secure it right here. Let's put in our tie rod. Go ahead and put that nut on there. Now I'm gonna snug it up, and then we'll torque it to manufacturer specifications. Let's torque this to 18 foot-pounds. And now we need to turn it an additional 90 degrees, which basically means a quarter turn. So I'm gonna start my ratchet right here, and then I'm gonna come right along so it looks like this. That's pretty decent. If your tie rod stud has a castle nut like this, you want to make sure that the castle nut slot is lined up with the stud itself. Go ahead and put through a cotter pin if you have one, and of course, lock it in.

Next, we're gonna put on our axle nut. If you want to use a little bit of thread locker, we'll call it your prerogative. We'll bottom this out, and then we'll torque it to manufacturer specifications. The best way to torque this is to go ahead and take a nice long pry bar like this, put it flat across the studs, that way there the hub can not turn. Now we're gonna torque this to 159 foot-pounds. Torqued. Let's go ahead and put a little bit of copper never seize on our hub.

Time to install the rotor. And I always like to hold it on with a lug nut. That way, there can't wiggle around. Let's go ahead and get the bracket on here. I always like to use a little bit of thread locker on my bolts. Start them both in, we'll snug them up, and then we'll torque them to manufacturer specifications. Torque these to 96 foot-pounds. Go ahead and carefully put this in here. Put on the outer pad as well. Now we're gonna slide this right over the sliders, and of course, over the pads. Line up those sliders. We'll put in our slider bolts.

Now we're just gonna bottom these out, and then we'll torque them to 26 foot-pounds. Make sure you clean down your entire braking surface, just in case you have any fingerprints on it. All right. Let's just double-check everything that we fixed here. Looks great. We'll get the wheel up on. We'll start all the lug nuts, snug them up, and then we're gonna torque them to 100 foot-pounds. All right, 100 foot-pounds. Torqued.

Okay, friends, before we get started, the first thing that I want to mention is you want to be safe. So have hand protection and eye protection. The next thing we're going to talk about is safely raising and supporting the vehicle so the suspension is hanging. So come right underneath here, this is where you're going to support the vehicle in the front. Now with the front of the vehicle safely raised and supported, we're going to remove all 5 of our 19-millimeter lug nuts. Remove your wheel. Now that the wheel is off, we have a nice clear view of our front strut. With that said, anything that you're going to be removing bolts or nut-wise, you want to of course, spray it down with some penetrant.

First, what I like to do is remove the sway bar link from the front strut. So I'm going to use some locking pliers, come from the backside right here and just try to hold onto the stud so it can't spin. All right. Let's get this off of here. Let's get the brake hose off of here. What we want to do here is just kind of move this brake line a little bit so we can give some slack between the stud and the strut, that way there we can lift this right up and out.

The next thing we need to do is loosen our 36-millimeter axle nut. The reason for that is because when this knuckle is going to want to pull away from the strut, we don't want to put a tug on any of our axle boots. A little bit of penetrant. The next thing you would want to do is either with a center punch, come right into that little dimple and just try to drive this axle into the bearing a little bit, just to give a little bit of slack, or of course, if you don't have a center punch, just put the nut so it matches up evenly, give it a couple loving bonks this way. That's nice and loose.

Next, we're going to remove our 18-millimeter nuts located right here and there. They hold the knuckle to the strut. Grab this bracket, carefully set it aside. These bolts right here are actually going to have to be forced out of the knuckle area. So what I always like to do is just take those nuts and I'm going to start them back on there, a few good threads, and you want to make sure that we're not going to damage the thread of the bolts. Give it a couple of loving bonks. Keep your ABS wire clear, do the same thing to the other one.

If you look at these bolts, you can see they're both the same, and if you look, you can also see that it's splined. That's the reason why it was stuck inside the knuckle.

Now we're going to carefully try to separate these two, but we want to make sure that this doesn't come down too far because once again, we don't want to put a tug on our axle boots, and we definitely don't want to put a tug on our brake line. If you want to have a bungee cord or something that's going to hold it at least away, but safely, that's up to you. There we are. I'm just going to set this right like that. Now we need to get under the hood. Now that we have the hood up, you have a clear view of the strut tower here. With that said, you don't want to touch this center nut. We're only going to remove these three, but when we remove all three, we want to leave one on there just a couple of threads for safety, and then we'll get under, we'll hold onto the strut and then we'll remove that nut.

If for some reason your strut didn't drop down when you removed all three of your nuts like that, it's because it's probably frozen along this area here into the strut tower. Use a little bit of penetrant and then carefully bonk right along here until it finally breaks free. Down like this, I'm just going to hold onto that strut, remove that last nut, and then I can remove it. There it is, friends. One thing that's always a great idea before you go ahead and try to put your new strut into the vehicle, is just line up the strut cap with the way the original was. So a match up from the bottom, make sure it's facing a straight line, and then just set these where they need to be. You can do that fairly easily by just holding the bottom and then turning the cap itself. Okay, friends, now it's going to be time to get our brand new front strut in here. As we do this, I like to mention that I always like to use a little bit of thread locker right on these studs. We'll call it your prerogative, but I recommend it. When we put this in, we want to make sure we line up the bolt holes with the studs coming out of our strut itself.

We'll start on all of our nuts, and then we'll snug them down and torque them to manufacturer specifications. Something that's important to make sure that I mention before we go ahead and put our knuckle up into the strut, is if you were to look along the backside of the knuckle, you might find that there's a lot of corrosion buildup. That's due to the fact that somebody made the knuckle out of aluminum and they put it in with the steel. When you have aluminum with steel, it just corrodes and that's what happens.

So feel along the back. If it feels as though it's raised, you need to make sure you take a chisel or whatever you might happen to have and clean that out. Now that I've got that knuckle cleaned up, let's go ahead and put this up so it's going to line up the bolt holes. Obviously, you want to clean up the threads on your mounting bolts. Something I always like to use is a little bit of red thread locker, we'll call it your prerogative. Go ahead and start those through from the front to the back. Grab your two mounting nuts and of course, your bracket for the ABS wire, start it on there. We'll start these nuts, we'll bottom them out, and then we'll torque them to manufacturer specifications.

Torque both these nuts to 89 foot-pounds. Let's get our brake hose back in there. It slides right into this little groove, and then of course we'll tighten it up. Let's get the sway bar link connected to the strut. Let's torque this to 48 foot-pounds. After you've bottomed out your axle nut, torque it to 159 foot-pounds. I like to put a bar straight across these studs like this, you want to be careful and make sure it's flat and not at an angle because you don't want to damage your threads on your studs.

We're going to go ahead and put the wheel on here. We'll start all the lug nuts, we'll snug them up and then we'll torque them to 100 foot-pounds. Torqued. Now it's going to be time to make sure we go ahead and torque these down. Before we do that though, you need to make sure you have your wheel on the ground with the weight of the vehicle. Let's torque them to 18 foot-pounds.

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In this video we're going to show you how to replace front struts on this 2007 Pontiac G6. Very much the same for any 2005-2010 G6 as well as the Saturn Aura. We're going to show you the right hand side. The left hand side is the same procedure and we always recommend that you replace your struts in pairs. And speaking of struts you want to get a nice new set of loaded struts from 1AAuto.com. We sell both brand name as well as private label: Jack and Jack stands, 10, 18, and 19 mm sockets, ratchet and breaker bar or pipe for some extra leverage, and 18 mm wrench and a hammer.

Start out by using just the socket to loosen the lug nut covers or the wheel cover as in this case. We're going to use impact or air tools sometimes. If you don't have the benefit of air tools just start with the vehicle on the ground, loosen the lug nuts then raise and secure the vehicle and remove the lug nuts, wheel, and tire and grab the suspension and turn the wheels or turn them with the steering wheel and there's a 10 mm bolt that holds the brake line bracket to the strut, remove that.

There are 2, 18 mm nuts on the back side of the strut. You want to use a ratchet, using a breaker bar and a pipe or something here for some extra leverage might be in order but you can see on our vehicle they come off with just a good amount of force. Use an 18 mm wrench to grab onto the nuts part of the stud of the stabilizer link and then use an 18 mm socket. Loosen up the nut and then it comes off. Use a hammer, be careful not to damage the bolts too much. You might want to put a nut on the back of them and although ours came out pretty easy, and just drive those bolts right out. Heading up top underneath the hood, there are three 13 mm bolts that hold the top of the strut in place and we'll fast forward as we remove those. You can remove 2 of them and then just loosen one up most of the way.

And as you're taking that last nut off, you can just keep your hand on the strut and as you take the nut off you will be able to lower the strut out. And then put the strut back in place and yes, you probably will notice that we're just putting the old strut back in. The struts in this car were in fine shape and so we're not usually ones to waste putting a new strut into a car that doesn't need them. We're just kind of doing this to show you how to do it but you put it into place, start one of the nuts on top and then start the other two and you can tighten those up and the top nuts you should torque to 20 to 25 foot pounds.

Back down under now, lift your brake hub assembly and steering knuckle back in to the strut. You can force it in there and you put one of the bolts in, and just kind of put it in a little bit and then as you move the knuckle around on the strut you should be able to get the bolt through. Then make sure you put the bracket back into place and you can get the second bolt through and if you like use a hammer or something just to drive the bolts all the way through. And it should be noted that we do recommend an alignment after you do this because the movement of these struts is something that affects the caster and camber of your wheels.

And torque those nuts to 85 foot pounds. Bring the sway bar link back into place and should you possibly feel the need to replace those sway bar links, 1AAuto.com, we sell those as well but then use a 18 mm wrench and an 18 mm socket and ratchet to tighten up that bolt. That bolt should be tightened somewhere around 70 to 75 foot pounds. Put the bracket that holds your brake hose back into place and start the 10 mm bolt on and tighten it up. Please install the wheel and put the lug nuts on by hand first just to make sure you don't cross thread them then tighten them preliminarily.

the vehicle on the ground, torque the lug nuts to 100 foot pounds using a star pattern. Now reinstall your hubcap and I'm going to do that with that 19 mm socket and then I'm just going to screw them in by hand. Also want to make sure that you line up the valve stem with the notch in the hubcap for the valve stem and I'll go ahead and fast forward through that.

We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Please feel free to call us toll free: 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the internet and in person.