Chevrolet GMC Olds Isuzu Front 16 Piece Steering, Suspension, & Drivetrain Kit TRQ PSA59278

Safely raise and support your vehicle on the frame so your suspension can hang. Now that we've safely raised the vehicle, let's remove this by using a small pry bar right in this little slot. Now you can see your 22-millimeter lug nuts, remove those. And now we'll just do the same thing to the other side. It's a great idea to spray down the area. We're going to let that sit. Obviously, if your tie rod ends look like this around the adjustment area, you're going to want to do the whole thing. If for some reason you aren't, you're going to remove these two bolts and then you'll turn this out and that will break this free.

So now that I know that I am replacing the assembly as a whole, I'm going to turn the wheel all the way to the left. That's going to give me the most area to get to that inner tie rod and stud. To start, I'm going to use my 18-millimeter half-inch drive, come right up here on the outer tie rod end nut, if you need to give it a couple of bonks, make sure you get it on there. Let's loosen this up. I'm just going to take that nut and put it back on there, just a few threads to keep myself safe.

So now we're going to break the outer tie rod end free from the knuckle right here, you can use a large hammer. You could also use a pickle fork with a hammer. If you're going to go with the hammer method, just go right here on the knuckle, it should want to break free. Make sure you have the nut on there and your safety glasses. All right, that broke free, awesome. Let's remove that inner tie right end nut. For this part right here, we're going to use one of these pickle forks. Come right in through in between the inner tie rod end and this right here, going to hammer it in. Start that on just a couple threads here. Okay, that's separated. Let's start the removal process here. Now we can move along to the next step.

So one of the first things we need to do when we get to the bench is, of course, we'll put a little bit of copper Never-Seez on our threaded area, you can go right on the tie rod ends, and maybe inside the sleeve if you wanted to. Once you have done that and you have those prepped, we're going to take a measuring tape and we're going to measure from one end of this all the way to the other end. Take a quick measurement here, and take note, looks like for me it is 16 and seven-eighths. So, what I am going to do now is I'm going to get this started onto both these tie rod ends at the same time, that is called timing the tie rod ends. We'll screw it in, and then we'll keep measuring until we get to 16 and seven-eighths, which is my measurement.

Start this on, just a couple of threads here, okay. Now I am going to do the same thing for this one, just grabbing the first thread is the hardest part usually. Now that I have both those started, I'm going to try to screw this on. Okay. So that looks pretty decent. At this point, what I want to do is make sure that I have the inner tie rod end lined up with the new inner tie rod end. That looks good, and I am going to make sure that this is aiming up in the same direction as the other one. Just like that.

And the next thing that we want to do is get these bolts so they are lined up just like that. So you can see where the open area is, that is exactly where you want the bolt to be when you crimp this down. That's how it is going to hold the threads the best. Just snug this up, and we're not going to completely tighten this up yet because, of course, we're still going to have to give it a little twist when we get in the vehicle. I just want to kind of make it so it can't flop around on me. That's pretty decent. Just snug, time to get that started in there, it's important to pay attention to your inner tie rod end which has this little blank area of the shanked end, then you have the outer tie rod end that has the threaded area pretty much the whole way. Started. Start in the outer as well, let's go ahead and bottom these out. Let's torque both these nuts to 40 foot-pounds.

So now you are going to look for your cotter pin hole. And that should be a hole that goes through the stud. It needs to line up with the castle nut here. I'm going to take one of my cotter pins and just feel around, that feels like it is almost about to go through. Something that's important to remember is if the cotter pin does not go through, or it is not lined up, you don't want to loosen it so you can put the cotter pin through. You just want to tighten to the point that you can get the cotter pin locked in. Do the same to the other one, that one I can see that it is not lined up. Just going to give it a teeny bit more. Put the cotter pin through, of course, lock it down.

The next thing you want to do is make sure that your tie rods are straight so when you're looking at 'em, you want the stud to look like it's coming straight out. If it isn't, just go ahead and give it a little twist, and then double-check the other side to make sure that that one is good. If for some reason when you have one straight and the other one is turned completely like that, that's going to cause premature wear of the tie rod ends. Make sure they are both straight, and then you can torque these down to 14 foot-pounds. We're just going to double-check the tie rods now that those are snug. That looks straight, this looks straight, perfect. Let's get the wheel on, and get it to the alignment shop.

Time to get the wheel up on here. Start on one of those lug nuts. Now we're just going to start on all the lug nuts, we'll bottom them out and then we'll torque them to 120 foot-pounds. Torque these to 120 foot-pounds. That's torqued. We'll get our cover on here, awesome. And now we'll just do the same thing to the other side. The next thing you would want to do is go ahead and get yourself an alignment.

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Hi, I'm Mike Green. I'm one of the owners of 1AAuto. I want to help you save time and money repairing and maintaining your vehicle. I'm going to use my 20+ years experience restoring and repairing cars and trucks like this to show you the correct way to consult parts from 1AAuto.com. The right parts installed correctly, that's going to save you time and money. Thank you and enjoy the video.

In this video we'll be showing you how to replace a front hub on this four wheel S10 Truck, same as any 97 to present S10 or Blazer. Tools you'll need are metric sockets, 10mm-19mm, 18mm and 13mm wrenches, Jack and Jack Stands, 35mm Socket for the Hub Nut, Large Screwdriver or a Pry bar, some Penetrating Oil and a Torque wrench to put it back together.

Okay so first, if you're using hand tools, you're going to want to loosen your Log Nuts up and that's going to do with a 19mm wrench and you want to do this on the ground obviously because that way the wheels won't be moving. Then the other thing you're going to want to do is you're going to want to use your 34mm socket, 35mm actually. Now I'm going to raise the car up and secure it. Okay, so I've raised the wheel. I'm working on up off the ground. By putting the jack under there and then actually I have jack stand under the frame here and that's what's really going to hold the weight. Now I'm going to remove the tire. Now I could remove the center hub nut and the washer. Okay, now I'm going to remove my brake caliper by removing this bolt here and then down on the backside, this bolt here. Okay, they're 18mm bolts.

Okay now I'm going to use my wrench just pry the caliper right off then rest it right up here. Take the disc off. Now I'm going to remove the clips for the hub harness here and here. Okay and then the harness goes right up in here. Okay, and I just disconnected it. Then you can just use a screwdriver. I can't really. That's why you need a screwdriver to pry it up out of the frame there. Okay. Here's how I'm just coating those two little nuts with penetrating oil and then I'm going to take the small one off. Actually, I'm going to finish prying that clip up and out and now I'm going to take the small one off with a 10mm wrench. Okay and here this next shot, I'm actually showing you how to get the wrench up in behind there to hold that bolt. That's where you want to place the wrench in order to hold the bolt on the other side and not here. I'm just removing that clip bolt.

Okay and here I'm just finishing up taking out that bolt. Actually like to cut up the bolt and the nut back into the control arm just for safe keeping so that I know where they are. Here is the last clip that's on the frame. This is a 13mm bolt and so I'm unbolting from the frame here. Now I just pull in harness out and free and I'm going to pull the clips off the harness so I can put them on to the new hub harness when I'm ready to install it. Now you want to remove your hub just three bolts, one in the back, one in the middle and the top and then one over here in the front.

These are 18mm bolts. Okay so front and rear ones you can get to with an impact wrench or a regular wrench. The top one is a little more difficult. You have to use a hand wrench and it helps if you swivel the steering that helps you get to the bolts that much easier. Then as you can see as I'm taking them out, you can pry with a pry bar or a large screwdriver. Replaces one right back here. There's a little place that in the flange that you can get a screwdriver into and pry against the steering knuckle and then also in behind right where the steering knuckle is here on in the front and you can see me get it apart now. I'm just shaking it. You want to be careful not to bend that backend plate too much. Basically I lead that top bolt in. It's very loose but it's still in there. Now you can see the hub comes right out and hold the harness out and away from the backend plate and your hub is out.

There's this little rubber o-ring that you want to make sure it goes back on correctly. Okay so here's the new one with the hubs off versus the old one. See the leads are all the same, has the same bracket, same end. It's going to mount the same. Everything's going to be all the same. Okay so ends the removing of the hub. Reinstalling is pretty easy. It's a reverse of procedure and obviously you need to use a torque wrench, torque the small bolts to 65 foot-pounds and the hub nut to 95 foot-pounds as well as your lug nuts, it's 75 foot-pounds. We do have this detailed in another video. That is a reply to this video. Also, you can just search for S10 hub and find the installation video.

We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com-- your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Please feel free to call us toll free 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the internet and in person.