Chevrolet GMC Front & Rear 6 Piece Suspension Kit TRQ PSA63622

One of the first things we need to do is safely raise and support the vehicle, so the wheel is off the ground. Let's remove our 22-millimeter lug nuts. Remove your wheel.

Now that the wheel's off of here, we have a clear view of the sway bar link. What you're going to notice is, up along the top, it has a strange-looking nut. It's very thin. It's going to be hard to grab onto. I'm going to use a pair of locking pliers to try to grab onto it. Using my 15-millimeter socket, I'm going to come down from the bottom here. Now I'm going to use my 14-millimeter socket down along the bottom here, see if we can get this to come apart. Looks like it's starting to turn.

Okay. So, for us, the outer sheath on this broke free from the bolt itself that's supposed to be running through the center, so I'm just going to go ahead and spray this down with some penetrant, let that soak down and through there. Sometimes, what happens is, is this outer portion will actually freeze or get stuck onto the bolt. If that's the case, what you would either want to do is grab onto the outer portion with some locking pliers, and then try to spin out that bolt. If that doesn't work, you might have to just cut the bolt itself. There's the bolt. Let's get all this out of here. Awesome.

So, now, assuming you're doing the sway bar links as a pair, now is the best time to go ahead and start doing the other side as well. Okay. Once you have both sides out, you should be able to move the bar around a little bit at this point. We're going to grab our new sway bar links. We take off the nut, take off the washer and the bushing, the washer and the bushing, and then, of course, the sheath, washer and bushing again, and we're going to leave it just like this.

Now, as we come up, okay, coming up from under the control arm, we still have the bolt with the washer and the bushing. Now we're going to take our bushing with our washer, put that facing down and towards the control arm. Grab your spacer, put that on there. We're going to push this up a little bit further. Now you're going to go washer, facing up, bushing. Get it underneath that sway bar. Bring it up. Bushing again.

If you were to look at these bushings, you can tell that they have like a rounded area, and then they have this area right here with a little like a piton. The piton is going to be going either towards the control arm or towards the sway bar. Set that on there, this one right here, and then, of course, our locking nut. I like to use a little thread locker on these.

I'm just going to use my 14-millimeter wrench, and of course, my ratchet underneath, and I'm going to start snugging it up. As I snug it, I want to be watching these bushings. What I want to see is the bushing touching up against the bar, on both sides of course. And, of course, down by the control arm there, we want those bushings to be touching up against it as well. We don't necessarily want to continue tightening, though, until the point where they seem like they're getting squished down and even pancaking out. So, let's just snug them up so they're all touching at least, and then we'll continue on.

Okay. So, this looks great. As you can tell, all of my bushings are touching exactly where they need to be touching. And you're also going to notice that I didn't continue tightening until they flattened out, like I had said before. This looks pretty great, so I'm just going to take a quick measurement of it. It looks like it's approximately the width of my thumb, personally, so I'm going to make sure that I go approximately the same on the other side of the vehicle.

Okay. Now it's going to be time to get the wheel up on here. Slide it on. Now we'll get the lug nuts on here, we'll bottom them out, and then we'll torque them to manufacturer specifications. Let's torque these lug nuts to 140 foot-pounds. Torqued.

I'm going to use a 22-millimeter socket to take off the lug nuts so we can remove the wheel, then I remove the wheel. So I'm going to use some pliers at the top of the sway bar link right there, and then underneath, I'm gonna use a 14-millimeter socket and just take the link out. A long bolt goes straight through just like that. And take the top off just like that. Now just take a pry bar underneath here. Just raise up on the sway bar, take the link out, all right. So we'll just take the new link apart, and just leave the washer and the bushing on this long bolt. And take the other bushing and the washer, line that up first.

And then this tube goes next. Slide that bolt through, and then another washer and the bushing. Align this up and slide the bushing and the washer. Pry down on the bar. And then it would help if you had someone to help you out to pry this while you're holding this and getting the nuts started. All right, that's good. And then use a 14-millimeter wrench for the nut and a 14-millimeter socket and tighten this down. And then you want to torque this to 89 inch-pounds. Make sure you're on inch-pounds, not foot-pounds. Now, put the tire back and lug nuts. Now we're gonna torque the lug nuts to 140 foot-pounds in a star pattern or a cross pattern so that it tightens the wheel down evenly. And just go around again. Double Check.

One of the first things we need to do is safely raise and support the vehicle, so the wheel is off the ground. Let's remove our 22-millimeter lug nuts. Remove your wheel.

Now that we have the wheel off, we have a clear view of where we're going to be working. I used a nice piece of wood just to kind of push this up, so I can see the top area of the shock. On this particular one, I can see it has a jam nut and a regular nut, so I'm just going to go ahead and remove them both. Get that out of there. Now we'll take off the other nut.

The next thing we need to do is get this nut off of here. As you start trying to turn it, what you're going to notice is this top area of the shock is going to want to spin, so we need to figure out a way to make it so this does not spin with that nut. I'm just going to use a pair of locking pliers. You can use whatever you need to, but just hold this so it doesn't spin. Just a turn. There it is. Start it on there, just a couple threads. Now, let's move along to the bottom portion.

Next thing we're going to do is use a 21-millimeter wrench for the bolt side, and use a 21-millimeter socket for the nut over here, and remove it. Get the bolt right out of there. Get the nut off of here, the washer and the bushing, and then we should be able to get this right out of here. There it is, friends.

We've got our new shock here. One of the first things you need to do is charge it up. I mean, go ahead and take it, press it all the way down as far as it'll go, let it rise all the way up. Once it's done that, repeat the process three to five times.

Now that we have our new shock all charged up, we're going to take the nut off of here, remove the top washer and the top bushing. So, now we're going to take it, we're going to come down through the bottom area where we brought the old one out through, bring it up so the stud comes up and through the area in the frame. Now we'll get our bushing, our washer, and then the nut up on top of there.

You'll notice the bushing itself has a small area right here, and if you were to flip it over, you'd see a larger area. You want the small area facing down towards the frame, okay. And if you're looking at the bottom one, you'll want that facing up towards the frame. With that said, go ahead and slide it on there, your washer, and then, of course, your brand-new nut.

Okay. So, now we just need to line up the hole between the control arm and the shock. Once you've done that, go ahead and take the bolt, go through from the front to the back. Take your nut, start it on there. Let's go ahead and bottom this out. Now we're going to torque this nut to 59 foot-pounds. There we are.

Let's get our locking pliers up on here again. We don't need to go extra tight. We're only going to be torqueing this to 15 foot-pounds. Okay. I feel some resistance, so I'm going to stop there. There we are. Let's get that wood out of there. Make sure that this is secure and it can't touch against your exhaust.

Okay. Now it's going to be time to get the wheel up on here. Slide it on. Now we'll get the lug nuts on here, we'll bottom them out, and then we'll torque them to manufacturer specifications. Let's torque these lug nuts to 140 foot-pounds. Torqued.

I'm going to use a 22-millimeter socket. Take off the lug nuts, so we can remove the wheel. Now, remove the wheel. Now, I'm going to support the lower control arm with a jack stand. You could also use a floor jack just to take the tension off the suspension. That's good. The top of the shock is pretty rusty, so I'm just going to use some rust penetrant. Let it soak for a little bit. I'll take a 15-millimeter wrench. Slide it over the nut. Just try to break it free first. There we go.

At some point, as you're loosening this nut, the whole shaft of the shock is going to spin, so I'm going to use some large pliers, and just hold it from spinning right here. You could also get some locking pliers, and attach it to the top of the shaft, and just keep loosening the nut. All right. And take that nut off, and slide the top off. Now, I'll use a 21-millimeter socket and a 21-millimeter wrench on the backside of the bolt at the lower shock, and take the nut off. And slide the bolt out. Just support the shock, so it doesn't fall. Slide it up, and you should be able to slide it up. And take this nut off, and take the top washer and bushing off, and slide the shock through. Get it lined up, up top, and get it in position down here, and then slide the bolts on.

Take the nut. Put them on. We're just going to keep this lower bolt loose, and we'll put the top together first because it'll make it easier to install, and then we'll tighten this up afterwards. Now, take this bushing and the washer, and put it over the shaft of the shock. Take the nut, put the nut on. Then you can take a 14-millimeter wrench, or a ratchet wrench, tighten that up, and if the stud starts to spin, or the shaft starts to spin, you can use a six millimeter wrench to hold it as you tighten this up. You can take a torque wrench, and tighten this down to 15 foot-pounds. That's good.

Tighten this up. Now, we'll torque this nut to 59 foot-pounds. Now, we can raise the vehicle. Now, put the tire back on, and the lug nuts. I'm going to torque the lug nuts to 140-foot pounds in a star pattern, or a cross pattern so that it tightens the wheel down evenly.

And just go around again. Double-check.