1995 Chevrolet K2500 Truck with 6 Lug Wheels with Stamped Steel Lower Control Arms Front 15 Piece Steering & Suspension Kit TRQ PSA60584

Once you've safely raised and supported your vehicle so you can see underneath, you wanna remove this plate. If you take out these two bolts, this should swing down far enough to see right there. Let's use our 15-millimeter socket to remove this plate as well. That way there we'll have some room to get into the front end with our pickle fork. Remove this.

The next thing we're gonna do is remove this nut right here. Use your 22-millimeter socket. Now that we have the nut off right here, we're gonna come right from this side with our pickle fork and we're gonna try to separate this joint right here. If you wanna spray it with some penetrant, it's probably a great idea. There we go.

Okay, so I've got my ratchet with my extension and my 18-millimeter going through the frame holding that bolt side. The next thing I wanna do is remove the nut on the inside area of the frame. Let's do the same to all three mounting bolts. Now let's just push these bolts in a little bit. Obviously, we don't want them to fall out into the frame. If they do, you just use a magnet, you can grab them out. But by pushing them in at least towards the frame. Oh, it fell into the frame like I said it would. Now we can lift this up and out of here.

Now it's gonna be time to get this together. It comes with a locking nut, so you don't necessarily have to use any thread locker. Put this arm so that the stud is facing down, just like this. Take your nut. If you were to look inside there, you can see that there's an Allen head socket, so we'd use the according Allen head. Can hold the center, and then we're gonna turn the nut using a 24-millimeter wrench until it's nice and tight. Okay, bottomed out right there. Give it a couple extra bonks here. That's nice and tight.

So it's a great idea to use a magnet from the outside of the frame and take out at least two of those bolts that are up there. I like to leave just one. That way there it's a couple less things that I have to worry about pushing through as I get this up and lined up. It's much better to just have one up there. I can have a socket with an extension holding it still, and I'll get that one kind of snugged up a little bit, and then I'll start on the others.

I'm gonna get this shaft right inside this arm. That's gonna be the super important part. Okay, now I'm gonna twist this until all the rest of it lines up, right about like that. Now, I'm gonna use my extension from the other side, I got it through already, see if I can turn this in, get it started. There we go. That one's through. I'm gonna start the nut on there real quick. Should come with a washer. If it came with a washer, the washer goes on the bolt, and then, of course, the nut. It's a great idea to use a little bit of thread locker as well. Goes right up on there. Now there's no chance for this bolt to fall out. Let's continue on by doing the same to the other two. So now it's time to snug these up. I've got my 18-millimeter wrench on the bolt end through the frame there, and I'm gonna go ahead and use my 18-millimeter swivel socket to snug these up. That's nice and tight. Do the same to all three.
Okay, all three are nice and tight. That looks great. Let's move along to torque this to 40 foot-pounds. All right, let's do the same to all the rest. Let's get this on here. We're just gonna snug it up, and then we're gonna torque it to 40 foot-pounds. That's 40. Now you just wanna make sure that the slots on your castle nut are lined up with the hole that goes through here for the cotter pin. Once it's lined up, you put it through and make sure you lock it down. If it isn't lined up, you need to continue tightening until it is. Let's get that locking cotter pin in here. Slides right through. Like I said, make sure you peen it over that way there there's no way this nut can come loose. All right, let's get the plate up here. Let's go ahead and get our shield up here.

Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts, and the best service on the internet. Hi. I'm Mike Green. I'm one of the owners at 1AAuto. I want to help you save time and money repairing and maintaining your vehicle. I'm going to use my 20 plus years' experience restoring and repairing cars and trucks like this, to show you the correct way to consult parts from 1AAuto.com. The right parts installed correctly. That's going to save you time and money. Thank you and enjoy the video.

In this video we are going to remove and reinstall the radiator fans in this 2001 Ford Taurus. The fans didn't need repaired in this car. I'm just doing the video to show you how to take them out and put them in. The only tools you'll need are an 8mm socket and ratchet and a flat blade screwdriver. We're going to disconnect the battery here using an 8mm socket. You'll want to use a regular screwdriver. There is two tabs, you'll want to pull out on the tab, and pull up on this fuse box. This will just go up and out of the way a little bit. You'll see there is an 8mm bolt right here. You can see right down there is a plug for your radiator fan. All you're going to do is pry out lightly here and pull that plug off. You want to pull these pins. You can see here's one of the pins out. Pull these pins out of the fan shroud. Okay. We'll kind of speed through that process of unplugging the fan and removing the harnesses from the clips, and then finish out removing the 8mm bolt. Get this up out of the way. Pull this fan up. That just comes out of the bottom. Lift it out.

With this fan I've done the same thing. I already loosened this bolt. I've already unplugged it. I'm just going to take that bolt off. I'm going to pull it out. Then I'm going to slide over to where this other fan came from. It's going to be a fight with all the wiring. Slide it up and out. Slide this on over. It has two feet that have basically a cross pattern on it. If you look down in you can see right there, that cross right there, that's where one of the feets goes. Then that cross right down there is where the other one goes. You put the fans down in, and you kind of just work them back and forth a little bit. You find where they go down in, and then that 8mm bolt lines up. Then tighten up that bolt. Tighten up this 8mm bolt. Reconnect the wiring harnesses for the fan. Make sure everything's routed correctly. Put the fuse block back into place, reconnect the battery, and you should be all set. The second fan, slide it down in, just pull the wiring out the way kind of. The same thing on the feet. This goes down in here into place. Tighten up your 8mm bolt. This back into place now, and then the pins connect them. Put the harnesses back into their places. Connect the battery one more time. You should be all set.

We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts, and the best service on the internet. Please feel free to call us toll free at 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the internet and in person

Safely raise and support your vehicle on the frame so your suspension can hang. Now that we've safely raised the vehicle, let's remove this by using a small pry bar right in this little slot.

Now you can see your 22-millimeter lug nuts; remove those.

And now we'll just do the same thing to the other side. Let's get this little plastic cover out of here. To get out the sway bar links, more than likely, you're gonna have to drop your sway bar. To do that, I would spray right inside this hole right here, try to spray the top area of that bolt, and then from the other side, spray this side as well. While you're at it, why don't you do the other side of the vehicle at the same time?
To get this one out, obviously, it's going to be a little bit difficult. You have minimal room here. Go and try to use some sort of pivoting extension or whatever you might have to get up in there. You could also use a 10-millimeter wrench if you have all day.

Let's do the same to the other side. I'm just gonna use a swivel socket to come through this hole. I want to try to find the bolt under there. I'm gonna hold that and then I'm gonna remove the nut on the top.

Okay, so that one broke. So now we're just gonna get the bar off of here. We can move this, try to get this separated real quick.
So now we have the sheath. This is a metal sheath that goes over this metal part of the bolt. Odds are that's gonna be completely rotted together. The best thing to do here would be to cut it. If you were to look right down along here, you can see exactly what I'm talking about. They left plenty of room for moisture to get in there. Let's carefully heat up the area. You obviously want to be careful for any rubber such as your axle boot, or even your ABS wire.

Now we have that nice and warm, let's go ahead and hit it was some penetrant spray. Let's clear the area, let that dissipate for a minute.

Let's get the rest of this off of there.
It doesn't look like the bushing wants to be coming out at the same time here. Get this out here, get that out of there.

Now when you're replacing the sway bar links or just the bushings, you want to obviously do those as a pair and when they're apart is the best time to do it. So now when we're getting ready to put this on, it's important to make sure you have the smaller bushing on the bottom side, that's going to make it much easier to get up through the hole in the bottom of the control arm.

Get that and the bushing right up in there. Now we're gonna go with the other bushing that has the washer on it like that. Slide it down, get your shank, slide that on there, you've got your other washer, a little thing on there. Slide that like that. This is gonna go through the bar. Now we'll grab our bushing with the washer, slide that right on there and get our locking nut, make sure you put that on as well, obviously.

Now we're gonna do the same to the other side and then we'll jump into putting back on the bushings. Now we're gonna take our 13-millimeter wrench, come through the bottom of that control arm right through the hole and try to hold the bolt. And we'll come up here with our socket and we're gonna snug this up and pay attention to the bushings for how much they try to squish down.

I'm just going to analyze these bushings real quick. What you want to look for is to make sure that they're actually touching up against the bar. They have no room for movement, and you also want to make sure that they're not necessarily squished down like a pancake. If you've done that, you're probably going to damage the bushing. All you want it to be is enough so it touches here, here, here, and then if you could see in there, of course it's touching as well. We'll do the same to the other side. Let's start all of our bolts in here that hold the sway bar bushings in.

We're gonna snug these right up. All right, make sure those are nice and tight and then do the same to the other side of the vehicle.

Time to get the wheel up on here. Start on one of those lug nuts. Now we're just gonna start on all the lug nuts. We'll bottom them out, and then we'll torque them to 120 foot-pounds.Torque these to 120 foot-pounds. It's torqued. We'll get our cover on here. Awesome. And now we'll just do the same thing to the other side.

One of the first things we want to do when we start this job is, of course, to make sure the steering wheel will not be able to spin around and around and around. So, you can do that with something as simple as a bungee cord, just secure it to anything you can, whatever it reaches. For me personally, I'm just going to go right here because it's nice and close. Put it around there. Perfect. That's not going to be able to go around. We don't have to worry about the airbag anymore. Once you've safely raised and supported your vehicle so you can see underneath, you want to remove this plate. If you take out these two bolts, this should swing down, far enough to see right there. Let's use our 15-millimeter socket to remove this plate as well. The next thing we're gonna do is remove this cotter pin here so we can get the nut off. Now, it's time to remove the nut that holds the Pitman arm to the center link here. Use your 22-millimeter. The next thing we're going to use is a pickle fork, and we're going to try to separate this joint right here. If you want to spray down the area with some penetrant, it's probably a great idea. That's separated nice and easy. We can move along. So, now, we got to get this cover off of the steering shaft here. There's a little tab that you'd want to push to try to get around this. Then you should be able to slide it up. If you can't, you can try using a screwdriver. That looks decent. We can see where our little pinch bolt is right here. We're going to remove that, and then we'll get the steering shaft up and away from here.

Now, let's use an 11-millimeter to remove this bolt. Let's go ahead and spray down this area pretty good. Use your pry bar, go in between the shaft and the power steering box, and you should be able to move it. Once you're sure it's moving around pretty easily, we're going to continue on by removing the shaft from the box itself. There we are. That's completely released. Let's move along. Now, we're going to use an 18-millimeter crow's foot to get right down here on this line so we can remove the pair of them. If you want to spray them down with some penetrant, it's probably a great idea. Okay. So, I can see that the line is spinning with the actual fitting. So, I'm just going to try to work that back and forth a little bit. I'm going to spray it again real quick and see if I can get it to break free. I'm just going to take my bar along the top and just try to cause some vibration to see if I can get that penetrant to work its way in between the line and the fitting. Obviously, I don't want to damage the line in any way. If you poke a hole in the line, well, go ahead and buy yourself a new one. There we are. We've got those two separated now a little bit, so it's at least spinning. Let's make sure we put a nice recycling bucket underneath the vehicle to catch the power steering fluid that's bound to come out. Here we are. Got the fluid coming out. We're going to make sure that goes right into the collection bucket so we can recycle it properly. We'll set this aside and we're going to do the same thing to this line right here. There we go. Now, inside the driver's side wheel well, you're going to see three bolts sticking through the frame. Just remove all 3 of these bolts right here using your 21-millimeter socket. If you can't get this one, you could just try to bend this metal a little bit and then, of course, we'll form it back to the way it needs to go.

Let's see if we can finagle the box out of here now. There it is. Next thing we're gonna do is remove this nut that holds the Pitman arm on. Let's just make sure that we've got the right Pitman arm. Looks good. You'll notice if you look inside here, it actually has these little keyways in it. So, just kind of make sure that you're facing in the general direction when you take this off and it should pretty much line up because you really can't mess it up. Here we go, 34-millimeter. Get that lock washer off of there. We'll set these aside. Usually, this is on there pretty good and it feels like it is. At this point, we're going to use a Pitman arm puller, and we're going to separate these two pieces. So, now, we're going to use a Pitman arm puller, and that's the tool that's going to go right over the Pitman arm. It's going to have a little piton that's going to drive down in the center of the shaft and it's going to actually lift up at the same time on the Pitman arm to separate it from the sector shaft. Get that tool on here. Oh, that one came off nice and easy. It's always a good idea to spray them down. It's helpful. Awesome. Now, you just clean up this area, make sure you don't have any gunk or anything like that. Once you've done that, we're going to go ahead and take this piece and we'll get it on there. Let's get our new Pitman arm on here. Like I said, it should line right up with the keyway slots there. That feels great. We have this aiming in this direction. You don't want it aiming towards the box, okay? Make sure you get your locking washer on there. If you want to use a little bit of thread locker, we'll call it your prerogative, but we're using a locker washer. So, you don't have to. Let's get this on there. Now, we're going to torque this nut to 184 foot-pounds.

The easiest way to do that, of course, is to have the arm facing towards the right. That way there, when we tighten it, it's going to have leverage against the ground. Let's clean up the threads on our bolts. And then we'll go ahead and put on a teeny bit of thread locker. I've got the thread nice and cleaned up. I'm going to put in one of the bolts. I'm going to go for the top one. Get it right up in there. Looks good. Now, when I get my box up, I'm going to hold it, and I'm gonna try to get at least one of the bolts started before I grab the other two. Let's get our box up in here.

I'm twisting that bolt while I'm trying to wiggle this around. Okay. Start it in. I'm going to start in the other two and then we'll snug them up. Now, we're just going to use our 21-millimeter. We'll zip these down so they're bottomed out, and then we'll torque them to manufacturer specifications. Now, let's torque the bolts to 100 foot-pounds. Now, if you bent this out of the way, just make sure you bend it back. Let's get this off of here. Okay. I got the nut off. I'm going to leave this on here. It's going to help protect us. Now, we'll just pull down on the bar and slide it over that. There we are. Slides right on. Start it on there. Let's go ahead and snug this up now. Now, we're going to torque it to manufacturer specifications, which is 40 foot-pounds. That's torqued. The next thing we need to do is make sure that our castle nut winds up with the slot for the cotter pin. Once you have it lined up, go ahead and put it in, and lock it down. If it doesn't line up, you need to continue tightening until it does. All right. So, I've got that nice and lined up. I've got my cotter pin here, I'm gonna slide it right through. And then, of course, make sure that I peen it over so there's no way that the cotter pin can come out because this is what makes sure it's locked in so it can't come unsecured. Now it's going to be time to get the steering shaft onto the power steering box here. Just kind of line it up. You're going to notice that the steering box right here has a flat area. On the inside of the shaft, it's also going to have a flat area. Once you line that up, this should slide on fairly easily. If you need to give it a couple of loving bonks with a hammer, well, that's probably pretty probable as well.

All right. I don't want to go too far. I want to just take a peek inside that hole and it looks like I need to go a little bit further. Looks about right. I've got my steering shaft bolt here. As you can tell, I cleaned off the threads and I put on just a teeny bit of thread locker because it's a good idea. There it is. All right. That's snug. Now, we're going to torque it to manufacturer specifications, which is 22 foot-pounds. So, it's a good idea to replace your O-rings on here. I just put on some nice new ones. Once you've done that, you just use a teeny bit of the power steering fluid, make sure that you lubricate them, and then we're going to go ahead and install them into the vehicle here. Let's start this one in there. You might need to wiggle the line around a little bit. All right. That one's bottomed out. Now, we're going to make sure we snug it up with our crow's foot. And then once we've done that, we're going to do the same thing to the other line. Click. Once you have it nice and snug, you want to pay attention right down along here to make sure the line is resting directly against the box. If it is, stick your screwdriver in and just kind of move it away. You want to have a teeny bit of a gap, that way there, it's not directly rubbing and potentially causing a hole over time. We're going to get this line started into the box. Just give it a couple of nice turns. Make sure it flows in nice and easy. Now, we're going to use the wrench to try to tighten it up. If you feel like it's getting stuck or it's hanging up in any way, it might be cross-threaded. In which case, you'd want to back off, check those threads, and make sure they're good. Okay. That one went right in. That feels pretty good. I'm just going to check it with the crow's foot.

Make sure you don't have too much pressure on your lines or your hoses in any direction. There's no kinks or crimps. This looks really great. Make sure you put this cover back on here. It should slide right over, and then over that line. That should lock it in. Make sure it cannot move around. Now, we're going to use a nice funnel, and then we're going to go ahead and fill up the system and then we'll bleed it. Make sure you use your manufacturer-specified fluid. Now that we have this, so it's almost full to the top. Okay. So, now that we've got plenty of fluid in here, we're actually just going to make sure the front wheels are off the ground a little bit, and we're going to turn the wheel completely to one side and then very slowly all the way to the other side from point to point, maybe three to four times, and we're gonna come out here and we're gonna watch for some air bubbles. Once we notice that the air bubbles have dissipated, we're going to start up the engine. We'll let it run for a few seconds. We'll turn it off and we'll recheck the level. Make sure the level's good and there's no aeration, and then we'll continue on with the bleed. Let's go ahead and put the cover on just to make sure no contaminants get in. Now we're just going to clean up the area. Anywhere that you see power steering fluid, make sure it's nice and clean. So that way there, when we run it and if we happen to see any fluid anywhere, we can determine where the leak might possibly be.

So, now, we're just gonna check the level. Looks like it's right about at the add line, but it also is at the full cold line. So, it's important to pay attention to the fact that your engine's either cold or warm. If it's cold, you want to be at approximately the cold line. If it's warm, you want to be much higher up approximately at the hot line. This looks decent. So, I'm just going to go ahead and run it now for a little while and make sure all the air burps out of it. Turn the wheels side to side. Okay. So, this looks great. I'm looking at where all my lines are connected into everything, I want to make sure that there's no leaks. If there's any leaks, we need to make sure we fix them now. This looks wonderful. We're going to run it for a little while, let it get up to temperature, and then we're going to recheck the fluid while the vehicle is hot. Now that the vehicle's nice and hot, let's go ahead and pull this up and out of here. Just check that fluid level. As you can tell, this is still a little bit low. So, I'm going to add some more. While I've got it open, we're going to take a peek inside and just double-check to make sure there's no air bubbles. If there's air bubbles, you need to continue bleeding the system before you take it for a nice long road test. Okay. So, we've got that nice and topped off now. We'll close this up. Make sure everything's nice and connected. There's nothing hanging around. This looks great. Let's take it for a road test. All right. Let's get the plate up here. Let's go ahead and get our shield up here.

Safely raise and support your vehicle on the frame so your suspension can hang. Now that we've safely raised the vehicle, let's remove this by using a small pry bar right in this little slot. Now you can see your 22-millimeter lug nuts, remove those. And now we'll just do the same thing to the other side. It's a great idea to spray down the area. We're going to let that sit. Obviously, if your tie rod ends look like this around the adjustment area, you're going to want to do the whole thing. If for some reason you aren't, you're going to remove these two bolts and then you'll turn this out and that will break this free.

So now that I know that I am replacing the assembly as a whole, I'm going to turn the wheel all the way to the left. That's going to give me the most area to get to that inner tie rod and stud. To start, I'm going to use my 18-millimeter half-inch drive, come right up here on the outer tie rod end nut, if you need to give it a couple of bonks, make sure you get it on there. Let's loosen this up. I'm just going to take that nut and put it back on there, just a few threads to keep myself safe.

So now we're going to break the outer tie rod end free from the knuckle right here, you can use a large hammer. You could also use a pickle fork with a hammer. If you're going to go with the hammer method, just go right here on the knuckle, it should want to break free. Make sure you have the nut on there and your safety glasses. All right, that broke free, awesome. Let's remove that inner tie right end nut. For this part right here, we're going to use one of these pickle forks. Come right in through in between the inner tie rod end and this right here, going to hammer it in. Start that on just a couple threads here. Okay, that's separated. Let's start the removal process here. Now we can move along to the next step.

So one of the first things we need to do when we get to the bench is, of course, we'll put a little bit of copper Never-Seez on our threaded area, you can go right on the tie rod ends, and maybe inside the sleeve if you wanted to. Once you have done that and you have those prepped, we're going to take a measuring tape and we're going to measure from one end of this all the way to the other end. Take a quick measurement here, and take note, looks like for me it is 16 and seven-eighths. So, what I am going to do now is I'm going to get this started onto both these tie rod ends at the same time, that is called timing the tie rod ends. We'll screw it in, and then we'll keep measuring until we get to 16 and seven-eighths, which is my measurement.

Start this on, just a couple of threads here, okay. Now I am going to do the same thing for this one, just grabbing the first thread is the hardest part usually. Now that I have both those started, I'm going to try to screw this on. Okay. So that looks pretty decent. At this point, what I want to do is make sure that I have the inner tie rod end lined up with the new inner tie rod end. That looks good, and I am going to make sure that this is aiming up in the same direction as the other one. Just like that.

And the next thing that we want to do is get these bolts so they are lined up just like that. So you can see where the open area is, that is exactly where you want the bolt to be when you crimp this down. That's how it is going to hold the threads the best. Just snug this up, and we're not going to completely tighten this up yet because, of course, we're still going to have to give it a little twist when we get in the vehicle. I just want to kind of make it so it can't flop around on me. That's pretty decent. Just snug, time to get that started in there, it's important to pay attention to your inner tie rod end which has this little blank area of the shanked end, then you have the outer tie rod end that has the threaded area pretty much the whole way. Started. Start in the outer as well, let's go ahead and bottom these out. Let's torque both these nuts to 40 foot-pounds.

So now you are going to look for your cotter pin hole. And that should be a hole that goes through the stud. It needs to line up with the castle nut here. I'm going to take one of my cotter pins and just feel around, that feels like it is almost about to go through. Something that's important to remember is if the cotter pin does not go through, or it is not lined up, you don't want to loosen it so you can put the cotter pin through. You just want to tighten to the point that you can get the cotter pin locked in. Do the same to the other one, that one I can see that it is not lined up. Just going to give it a teeny bit more. Put the cotter pin through, of course, lock it down.

The next thing you want to do is make sure that your tie rods are straight so when you're looking at 'em, you want the stud to look like it's coming straight out. If it isn't, just go ahead and give it a little twist, and then double-check the other side to make sure that that one is good. If for some reason when you have one straight and the other one is turned completely like that, that's going to cause premature wear of the tie rod ends. Make sure they are both straight, and then you can torque these down to 14 foot-pounds. We're just going to double-check the tie rods now that those are snug. That looks straight, this looks straight, perfect. Let's get the wheel on, and get it to the alignment shop.

Time to get the wheel up on here. Start on one of those lug nuts. Now we're just going to start on all the lug nuts, we'll bottom them out and then we'll torque them to 120 foot-pounds. Torque these to 120 foot-pounds. That's torqued. We'll get our cover on here, awesome. And now we'll just do the same thing to the other side. The next thing you would want to do is go ahead and get yourself an alignment.

Okay, friends. One of the first things we need to do to get started is to safely raise and support the truck so the front wheel is off the ground. After that, go ahead and remove the center cover, and then we'll remove our six lug nuts.

Let's get the wheel off of here. All right. Now that our wheel's off, we have a nice clear view of our upper control arm here. You're going to see that you have two mounting bolts, one in the front here and one in the rear right there. Also what you're going to notice underneath this control arm is where your knuckle is going to be. If you were to look from the front or the backside of this is where you're going to see your ball joint nut. Let's remove all those. For the ball joint nut, you're going to see that it has a locking cotter pin. You're going to need to get that right out of there, and then you can remove the nut. There we are. All right. So, we've got this so it's pretty much at the bottom last couple of threads. Let's leave it just like that, and move along to the top area of this control arm. Up along the top, we're going to go ahead and remove this nut right here. I'm gonna use a wrench to hold the bolt that's coming through from the bottom. Get that out of there. Let's try to get as much slack with this ABS wire as possible. So, now, we're going to take a pickle fork and a hammer, and I'm going to come right in between this area here. That's going to be in between the upper control arm and the knuckle itself. Now, let's continue on to removing our caliper slider bolts so we can get the caliper out of the way. Let's carefully hang this so it's putting no pressure on our flex hose.

Let's just go ahead and put a lug nut on here to hold our rotor so it can't fall off. Now, let's carefully just apply a little bit of pressure underneath the lower control arm so we can continue on by getting the nut off of here. I'm just gonna put a pry bar right through here, a little bit of leverage, then I can take that nut right off. Just want you to pay special attention to your inner CV boot. If you were to let down on your control arm, you're going to be able to see that this is going to be able to pull out. That's going to separate the CV joint that's in here and it might be a little difficult to push back in. So, before you let the knuckle come down, just go ahead and support it with something like a bungee cord. So, now following your upper control arm, up to where it meets to the body of the vehicle, you're going to see that there's going to be a mounting bolt. That mounting bolt has an adjustment point right here. We want to essentially mark where this adjustment is to where it is on the frame of the truck. You can do with a crayon, a marker, chopstick, or even a little punch with a hammer. Just going to make a nice little line so that way there, I know exactly where it's supposed to go. Now, let's just do the same to the front.

All right. So, let's go ahead and hold the bolt side with our wrench, and then we're going to remove the nut. Now, before we remove the rear bolt, let's go ahead and loosen up this front bolt as well. Now, let's start removing the bolts. It's going to be helpful to remove these by taking the washer that's on it and just kind of sliding it towards the body of the truck as you remove the bolt. There we are. Do the same to the front. Now, let's use a pry bar and get this out of here. There it is, friends. So, now, let's take a quick look at our control arms and just make sure you're dealing with the right side. They're going to be a different shape. And then overall, you're going to notice that if you had the wrong side, this hole is going to be located on the opposite side than the original. This looks perfect. So, let's continue on to the original control arm. We're just going to grab these little clips right here. Now, we'll transfer them over to the new control arm and then we'll get ready to install the new control arm. Okay. Let's get this control arm into the truck. I'm just gonna bring it right over here. We'll get it lined up with our holes. We're gonna take our front bolt, start that one in from the inside facing towards the front, and then we'll do the rear from the front to the rear.

Now, as you install these, you just want to make sure that the cam adjuster is facing in the same direction as when you uninstalled them. We have those marks lined up right there. So, we wanna make sure that they're lined up before we go ahead and snug anything up. All right. Let's go ahead and get our nut on there, cut our adjuster, start the nut on there. We'll do the same to the other side. So, now before we can snug up those bolts, we want to make sure that the upper control arm is pretty much flat along this area here. You want that to be flat and level with the ground. So, essentially, it's almost like you have your wheels on the ground before you snug this up. Now, let's go ahead and torque these to 85 foot-pounds. So, now I'm just going to go ahead and line this up so the ball joint's getting ready to come through my knuckle. And then I'll take a nice pry bar and I'm just going to carefully pry down on this and set it into the hole. With this lined up, go ahead and pry down on that. Let's get our nut on there. Now, let's go ahead and snug this up. The torque for it is supposed to be 61 foot-pounds, but as you can tell, there really isn't very much room to try to get a torque wrench with a socket in here. Just go ahead and make sure that it's nice and snug and then, of course, you're going to line up the slot of the nut with the hole in the ball joint. Once you have your ball joint nut tightened to 61 foot-pounds, you need to continue tightening until you get to the very next slot that lines up with your mounting hole for your cotter pin.

Once you have that all lined up, let's continue on by putting our locking cotter pin inside there. And then once it's through, just go ahead and peen it over. So, now, let's go ahead and grab onto our ABS wire and we have our mounting point here. That's going to line up exactly with the hole on the ball joint, and then we're going to take our mounting bolt and our mounting nut, come right up through the bottom of that control arm and up and through the ball joint. Go ahead and start that nut on there, bottom it out, and then we're going to torque it to 17 foot-pounds. Now, I'm just gonna hold that bolt head from underneath and we'll continue on tightening this up. Now, let's go ahead and install our grease fitting. Let's go ahead and slide that right into that ball joint. Screw it until it bottoms out, and just give it a teeny bit more with your quarter-inch ratchet. That feels perfect. Now, let's lower this control arm. Let's make sure we pump this up with some grease. You want to pay attention to that upper ball joint boot and make sure that it expands a little bit, but you don't want to keep going necessarily until the grease comes out of the boot per se. Let's make sure we secure this ABS wire. Now, let's continue on by putting our caliper back on here.

Now, it's going to be time to torque these caliper sliders. I just want to pay quick attention to the type of brakes that you have. If you have drum brakes in the rear, you want to go ahead and torque these caliper sliders to 38 foot-pounds. If you have four-wheel disc brakes, which means you have disc brakes in the front and the rear, you're going to go ahead and torque these slider bolts to 15 foot-pounds. Now, before we go ahead and get the wheel up on here, we just want to take a quick peek and double-check to make sure everything's nice and snug. You want to make sure, of course, your slider bolts are tight. And, of course, the ball joint's nice and tight along the way. Other than that, just pay quick attention to the flex hose right here. Make sure the caliper hasn't been twisted and this doesn't look like a little pigtail or curlicue. This looks amazing. Let's continue. Let's go ahead and get that lug nut off of there. Reinstall your wheel, snug up all of your lug nuts, and then torque them to 140 foot-pounds.Torqued. Put on your center cover.

Safely raise and support your vehicle on the frame so your suspension can hang. Now that we've safely raised the vehicle, let's remove this by using a small pry bar right in this little slot. Now you can see your 22-millimeter lug nuts, remove those. Now, with the wheels off, we have a clear view of where our upper ball joint nut is right here above the axle, go ahead and get that cotter pin out of there. It might not want to necessarily come out, you might have to cut it and then punch it through and try to grab on to it. Ooh. So, I sprayed that down again. Now, I'm gonna use my wrench. I'm gonna try to get this off of here. That right off of there. Now, we're gonna get the ABS wire off of the upper control arm. There's a bolt that comes through from the bottom to the top, hold the bottom, take off the top nut. Let's get this off of here.

Now we're gonna carefully push back the caliper piston. If you look right here, that's the piston. We want that to go all the way back as far as it can go. Some people would choose to open up their bleeder screw. If yours is in poor condition like ours is, it's probably going to break off. In which case, just push it back nice and slow. Now, we have a steel piston here, it's not ceramic. So, it's okay to go ahead and try to pry up against it. You can test it with a magnet. If the magnet holds, you know it's steel. Let's use a three-eighths Allen socket and remove these slider pins. Let's grab the caliper off of here and set that aside. Let's go ahead and get this rotor off of here.

Now that we have the caliper hanging, not from the flex hose, we have it hanging from a nice cord here, that way there it's not putting any pressure on that flex hose, we're gonna go ahead and take the upper ball joint nut, we're gonna put it on just a couple threads here. The reason for starting this on a couple threads is because the next thing we're gonna do is take a pickle fork and we're gonna try to separate these two. Once it separates, we wanna make sure that the knuckle doesn't come flying down and potentially rip the axle apart. Take your pickle fork and your little hammer, separate the two.

Now that we've got this separated, let's go ahead and take the nut off. Just be careful as you take it off because this is going to swing down and you don't wanna separate this area of the axle. There we are. Carefully let's bring this down. The next thing we're gonna do, you can either remove this by removing all these push clips or just flip it up. Once you've done that, you can see the nut that we're gonna remove. And on the other side is where the bolt is gonna come through. I'm gonna hold that bolt with a 21-millimeter. Now, we're gonna remove this nut using a 21-millimeter as well. You can see it's starting to come out, and you can also see this right here. You wanna make sure that you don't lose those. If you drop one, just go ahead and grab it. It should just slide up the bolt just like that. We're gonna use a punch, we'll push this out the rest of the way. And then we're gonna do the same to the other side.

We just wanna remember that this was facing down. Let's do the same to this one. As you can tell, you can roll this up so you have a better view. That's always nice. Here it is, friends. So, now we're gonna take our two mounting bolts here. I like to use a little bit of grease. You could also use some copper Never-Seez. You do you, boo-boo. Go right along this shanked area. That's gonna help make sure these come out nice and easy down the line.

Now it's time to put in the upper control arm. It's important to make sure that your control arm matches up with the one you took out because if you have the one for the other side of the vehicle, it's gonna cause a big issue. Another good way to tell if you're not sure because the curves are about the same, you could just look at where the bolt hole is missing. If you have the one for the other side, the bolt hole is gonna be missing over here. This looks great. Let's install.

Here we are. Just gonna leave this sitting for a second. Grab my bolt. I remember it came through from the inside through, and that this was facing down. It's nice and lubricated, so that's good. Getting all over my hands. That one is through. Let's do the same to the other side, and then we'll continue on. Let's get these on there. Put it on there. If you wanna use a little thread locker, we'll call it your prerogative, but these nuts should be locking nuts.

Now, before we tighten them down, it's important to make sure that you don't have your control arm hanging down like this. Of course, it's gonna put strain on the bushings. Once you go ahead and put this on the ground, it's gonna start stretching them. So, you wanna make sure you have it at approximately ground level. If you have the vehicle in the ground, this would be about where the vehicle is sitting. So, that looks good. I'm gonna find a way to hold this like this, and then we'll go ahead and continue. Now that I shim this with a nice piece of wood, I have it so this is approximately level with the ground. That's gonna be great. We're gonna go ahead and hold on to the bolt side and tighten up the nut side. I'm just gonna snug it and then we're gonna torque it to manufacturer's specifications. Let's go ahead and torque these upper bolts to 140 foot-pounds. Torqued.

Next, we're gonna take a nice, big pry bar. We're gonna come right across the top of the control arm underneath the frame. We're gonna grab our nut and have that ready. Now, let's tighten this up. The torque spec for it should be 74 foot-pounds. Something to keep in mind is it might be a little difficult to torque where you have the axle in the way. So, make it nice and tight. Once you're sure you've got it as tight as possible with the wrench, of course, I would try to make sure that you line up the castle nut slot with the hole that goes through the ball joint, and then go ahead and put in your cotter pin. Once you have the cotter pin through, make sure that you peen it over, that way there it'll stay locked. Beautiful. Let's take our grease fitting, start it in here. Make sure you snug it up. Perfect. Let's move along to this right here. You wanna make sure that you have your ABS cable secured. You don't want it to be rubbing against the rotor if it can move around.

So, now we're gonna take a bolt and the nut that came with the kit, put it through. Start the nut on the bottom there. The nut is a 12-millimeter and the top is a 13. We're gonna grab these little clips. They should slide right over the control arm and then they're gonna hold your ABS wire nice and secure. Just slide that one up quite a bit. Put that wire in. Do the same thing to the other one. Perfect. That's gonna protect this from getting damaged. Let's grease up this ball joint. Pay special attention to the boot under there. Make sure that it expands, but it doesn't necessarily keep expanding to the point that it blows open and squirts grease all over the place. Awesome. Let's get that new rotor on there. Make sure you take one of your lug nuts and tighten this down that way they're the rotor can't move around. Get the caliper on. We've got our two bolts. If you need to clean up the threads, now is the time to do it. But these look fine.

Now that they're both started in, we're gonna snug them up and then we'll torque them to manufacturer's specifications. Torque your slider bolts to 38 foot-pounds. Torqued. Let's get this off of here. We'll get our wheels back on. We're gonna put on all the lug nuts. We're gonna snug them up in a criss-cross manner. Torque these to 120 foot-pounds. It's torqued. We'll get our cover on here. Awesome.