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Part Details
TRQ brake kits are designed to restore your brake system to like-new performance. TRQ brake pads are positive molded, thermal scorched, chamfered, and utilize a multi-layer shim for enhanced performance and service life. TRQ rotors have a non-directional finish that reduces the break-in period for new rotors as well as reducing vibrations throughout the rotor’s lifecycle. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Product Features
Premium Positive Molded Brake Pads Features and Benefits
What are Tapered Bearings and Why Use Them? Tapered bearings use rollers shaped like flat-topped cones and two races angled from the outside in of the bearing. This angle makes the bearing better at handling forces exerted on the bearing during cornering (known as axial load) in trucks and large cars. Your model came from the factory with tapered bearings. Roller ball bearings work well for smaller cars, but replacing a tapered bearing with a roller ball bearing increases wear and failure.
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Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com-- your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet.
Hi, I'm Mike Green. I'm one of the owners of 1 A Auto. I want to help you save time and money, repairing and maintaining your vehicle. I'm going to use my 20 plus years' experience, restoring and repairing cars and trucks like this, to show you the correct way to install parts from 1 aauto.com. The right parts, installed correctly, that's going to save you time and money. Thank you and enjoy the video.
In this video, we're going to be doing a front brake job on this 1996 Chevy Tahoe. We show you obviously, the passenger side and the drivers side is going to be the same. Always replace your brakes in pairs. This is the same for the Tahoe, Suburban, and also the CK Pickups, Chevy and GMC alike. Tools you'll need are: jack and jack stands, a 22millimeter socket with a ratchet, or your tire iron, a 3/8 Allen wrench, combination wrench, a large hammer, wire brush, grease, as well as a torque wrench.
Start by removing your wheel. If you have a center cap or the lug covers, take them off carefully and then, if you don't have the benefit of air tools or impact tools as I do, you'll want to start with your vehicle on the ground, loosen the lug nuts, then raise it up, secure it and remove the lug nuts and the wheel. You can see our outer pad is actually getting a little bit thin, and on the front side, the disc is in pretty good shape, if you run your finger on it. On the back side there is a pretty good groove, we'll see what that's all about when we take it off. You want to take a large screwdriver or a pry bar and what happens is that as your brakes wear, the piston, right here, comes out of your caliper. To get your brakes apart, it helps if you force that piston back in. I'm taking a screwdriver and prying out on the caliper, and you can see that that forces the piston back in. With a good sized screwdriver, you can actually reset your pistons, pretty much all the way.
We want to remove the calipers, and back here, there are two 3/8s Allen bolts, one here and one right down here. I've got my 3/8s Allen wrench, I'm going to put it in, make sure it goes into the bolt as far as possible, then I'm going to use a regular crescent wrench on there for some extra leverage. Pull, ok, same thing for the top. I'm going to fast forward here as I finish removing those two bolts. Once you've got the bolts back out, your caliper comes off. You see your pads, the inside one just pulls right out. On the other one, put a screwdriver right in here, twist it and it comes right out. On your caliper, the bolts go through these sleeves, and those sleeves should slide pretty nice and easily. If they don't, you can use an extension and force them out, go easy though, you don't want to push too hard and have them fly right out, like that. You want to inspect these and see how worn they are. You can wire brush these, if there's some build up on them, you can wire brush these and reinstall them with a little bit of grease. This one was really difficult, this one here, I'm pushing much easier and takes a lot less to force it out.
If you want to better reset the pistons on your caliper, what you can do is put your old pad back in, take a C clamp, put it in place, tighten the clamp up, you will force that piston in the rest of the way. To remove the rotor, be very careful not to hit your studs, and if want to, you can put the lug nuts back on, that will help protect the studs from getting damaged. Usually a good hit breaks it loose. You can see on the backside, there's quite a bit of uneven wear. We will replace these rotors. New rotor from 1 A Auto, going on, in place. I like to put a lug nut right on, just to hold things where they should be.
You'll notice I'm working with new calipers. The owner of this vehicle wanted a new set put on the truck. Not always necessary, but make sure you reset the pistons, also check those sleeves, like I showed you earlier in the video, make sure the sleeves that the bolts go through are sliding nicely in the caliper. Take your inside pad, put it down in and press it in. Your outer pad, kind of slide it right down in. Just going to make sure these two shafts are back in at their starting point, looks like they're out a little bit.
I'm going to hit fast forward here. Put the bolts through, you might have to move the calipers a little back and forth to get them started. Use your Allen wrench to start them most of the way until you get them seeded. With an Allen wrench of this size, I'm basically pull it as tight as I can with that, should be about 25 to 30 foot pounds. Now you can remove that lug nut you have holding the disc on. Put your wheel on, start all your lug nuts by hand, then use a wrench to torque them, or tighten them preliminarily. Set the vehicle back down on the ground, and torque your lug nuts to 100 to 120 foot pounds. Put your cap back on, just use a socket to secure those caps. Very lastly and most importantly, make sure you pump your brakes and get a good firm brake pedal before you road test your vehicle.
We hope this helps you out, brought to you by www.1AAuto.com-- your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Please feel free to call us toll free at 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the internet and in person.
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Once your vehicle is safely raised and supported, take a pry bar right to this area right here, remove that. Use your 22-millimeter socket and remove all of your lug nuts. Now we're gonna use our three-eighths Allen head and we're going to remove our caliper slider bolts. get that out of there. Do the same to the other one. Now let's get the caliper out of the way. You can use a pry bar to just try to pry it. Obviously, this caliper is going to be replaced at some point, but that's not for this video. We'll get the rotor out of the way. Now we have a clear view of our bearing. Now we're gonna flip this up right here and it exposes where the ABS wire connects in. We're going to disconnect these two. Small screwdriver. Pops right up. Take that off of there. Use your 13-millimeter, remove this. Come along here. Remove the wire from these clips coming across the top of the control arm, and you're gonna use a 13-millimeter here and hold the bolt on the bottom side. I want to spray this with some penetrant for good luck. That's off of there.
Now we're going to use our 36-millimeter socket and remove our axle nut. Inside here, there's a washer. Use your magnet and get that out of there. Use a punch with a hammer or your air chisel with a punch bit and drive right in through the center right here. If you want to use a little penetrant in between the wheel bearing and the axle, it's your prerogative. That's great. It's important not to use a hammer right on here just in case you peen over these threads. Next, we're going to use a 15-millimeter socket and we're going to remove our mounting bolts. There's one here, here, and right there. These bolts right here in great condition, but with the year of this vehicle, more than likely, they're probably going to be in poor condition. If for some reason yours were rotted and you didn't think that they were usable, we sell them. Use your little hammer and break this free from the knuckle. Awesome. I'm going to put this rag in here like this, and then I'm going to clean this up so there's no debris along it. Let's wipe this down.
Now, if I'm looking at this, it looks as though that there's grease in here and the grease itself actually looks like it's in really good condition. If for you, inside there look like it was rusted and flaking or anything like that, or if it look like it was full of debris, you'd want to clean it out. To me, this looks fine. It's going to help keep moisture out. I'm going to continue. Wipe off this blind area, just check to make sure everything looks like it's in great condition, and it does. Let's grab our bearing. Slide this on here. Make sure your cables in no way are gonna get pinched. This looks great.
I'm going to line up our bolt holes here, and then we'll start in all the bolts and torque them down. Snug them up. Torque these to 184 foot-pounds. Torqued. Make sure you mount this on there. Got my nut in here, snug it up. Move along to this one. This is going to come right up here. And then, of course, we've got this. I'm gonna take this piece right out of here because obviously, we have a nice new one. Click this in. Nice and easy. Put that up there. Let's make sure we get this mounted in here as well. Here we are. Not touching up against anything. Make sure we get this, cover that back up, put this back in here.
Time to get the axle nut back on here, start with that washer, that nut. If you want to use a little threadlocker, we'll call it your prerogative. It's going to get that close. And then we'll torque it down to manufacturer specifications. Let's put on some copper Never-Seez on the mating surface here. Now, of course, we're going to clean up the mating surface on the backside of that old rotor. Now that we've got that done, we're just going to hold it by putting on one of these lug nuts so the rotor can't move around. Now, using a little bit of imagination and not noticing that the brake hose is ripped off of there, we're going to take our caliper, put it right up on here, it should slide right on. If it doesn't slide on, you're gonna need to clean up this area here and that area right there. Take your slider bolts. Put them through like that.
Now we're going to snug these up and then we'll torque them to manufacturer specifications. Torque these to 38 foot-pounds. Torqued. Let's get the wheel up on you here. We're going to start on all the lug nuts. We're going to bottom them out in a criss-cross manner, and then we'll torque them to 140 foot-pounds. Torqued. Now we're going to torque this axle nut to 165 foot-pounds. Let's grab our center cover.
Tools used
Safely raise and support your vehicle on a frame so your suspension can hang. Now that we've safely raised the vehicle, let's remove this by using a small pry bar right in this little slot. Now, you can see your 22-millimeter lug nuts, remove those. Now, we're going to carefully push back the caliper piston. If you look right here, that's the piston. We want that to go all the way back as far as it can go. Some people would choose to open up their bleeder screw. If yours is in poor condition like ours is, it's probably going to break off. In which case, just push it back nice and slow.
Now, we have a steel piston here. It's not ceramic, so it's okay to go ahead and try to pry up against it. You can test it with a magnet. If the magnet holds, you know it's steel. Let's use a three-eights Allen socket and remove these slider pins. Let's grab the caliper off of here and set that aside. Let's go ahead and get this rotor off of here.
Now that's all out of the way, let's continue on by cleaning up this area right here, this area right there, and then, of course, this whole hub area. Those are all the mating surfaces. Of course, you have your rotor, and then this is where your caliper is going to be. That one looks great. If you happen to see a lot of large rust flakes like this anywhere along the knuckle, make sure you chip them off. You don't want any of that falling in between the rotor in here, or even the rotor in the brake pads. That looks pretty decent. Let's hit it with some copper Never-Seez. Now, let's go ahead and put our rotor on.
Let's get that new rotor on there. Make sure you take one of your lug nuts and tighten this down, that way there the rotor can't move around. Get the pads out of here. Check your caliper boot. Make sure that looks good. Once you're sure it looks good, we're going to go back here and take a look inside there. If you needed to replace these, your kit is going to come with a new one. So, that's always great. Now, we're just going to take a little pry bar with our hammer, get right under here, and get this off of there.
Now you can see the slider right there. We're going to get that in one second. We'll do the same to this one real quick. There's one slider. Obviously, you need to clean up that rusted area. That one is pretty frozen but not too bad. Let's clean up the rusted area on the wire wheel. Now that we have our sliders nice and cleaned up, we're going to move along to taking out this backside of the boot here. Pops right out. Easy-peasy. Take a look in there. If you need to sand it out because it's extra rusted, make sure you do that now.
Now I'm going to use a peak that looks like this. I'm going to go right inside, and I can feel right where the rubber grommet is. That's another seal right there. I'm just going to carefully pull it out, match it up to the new one, and then install the new one in there. There's also going to be another one of these located towards the other side. We'll get that out as well. All right, so it's time to get our new ones in here. Just going to try to line it up with the hole, help it through one piece at a time here.
You want to make sure it's not twisted around in a circle. That looks really good. Stick my finger in there, make sure it's seated all the way around. And it is. I'm going to do the same to the other one, and then the same for this one up here. Use some of this caliper grease. Go right along in there. And I'm going to come up along this edge right here just like that. That's going to help keep moisture out. I've got this right here. Should be able to just slide it right on. If for some reason you can't, you could find a socket that fits over the top and give it a couple of loving bonks right along this edge. That looks great. Let's do the same to the other one. Use some of our caliper grease on this side now, and get right along the edge of that hole. I've got my little seal here. You want to make it so these little pitons are kind of facing out and away, and the smooth side is facing in.
Make sure it's nice and flush. If you need to use a socket, find one that fits along the edge, and then give it a couple of loving bonks. This one looks great. Let's do the same to this side. And then, of course, we'll do the other calipers as well once it comes along. Let's go ahead and prep this caliper piston. Just get a little bit of grease on there. That's going to help with vibration dampening and noise reduction. We're also going to get both of these ears, the areas where it matches up against the pad. Let's get our pad in here. Push this down. Slide it in.
Let's get the outer pad on. Make sure you match it up with the original one so you have the wear indicator on the same side. Slides right in. Let's take a little bit of that grease. Go right along this edge right here where we sand it down. That's going to help keep moisture from there, and keep it from rusting and rotting like the rest of the truck. Get the caliper on. Perfect. Grab your two sliders that you just cleaned up. Add plenty of lubricant to all sides, and then slide them in. Right in there.
Let's get our sliders in there. We've got our two bolts. If you need to clean up the threads, now is the time to do it. But these look fine. Now that they're both started in, we're going to snug them up, and then we'll torque them to manufacturer's specifications. Torque your slider bolts to 38 foot-pounds. Torqued. Let's get this off of here. We'll get our wheels back on. We're going to put on all the lug nuts. We're going to snug them up in a crisscross manner. Torque these to 120 foot-pounds. It's torqued. We'll get our cover on here. Awesome.
Tools used
Okay, friends. One of the first things we need to do is safely raise and support the vehicle from under the frame. Let's get the center cover off of here. Remove all six of your lug nuts and remove the wheel. Now, let's remove our axle nut. Remove the washer. Let's spray this area with some penetrant. Let that soak, move along.
Now that the wheel's off of here, we have a nice clear view of this area. Let's continue on to pushing back our caliper piston. Typically, to do that, you can use a pry bar, come right in between this area right here, and then we're just gonna slowly and carefully pull on this like that. Next, we need to remove our caliper sliders. There's one slider, do the same to the other one. Go ahead and grab on to that caliper and give it a nice wiggle, see if we can get it to break free. Set this up here so it's not putting any tug on there. Remove the rotor. The next thing we wanna do is disconnect our ABS wire. You just pull on this tab. Can pop that off of there. It's always a good idea to make sure you inspect all of your connections, make sure you don't see any funny colors. Assuming you don't, set it aside. We're gonna remove this 13-millimeter headed bolt here. And then if you follow it along, you'll find a nut with a bolt coming from the bottom. Let's get them both out of there.
Now, I'm just gonna use a little fork tool or even a pry bar. Just get underneath this, pop it out of the frame. Let's get these off of here. Now, looking behind this hub area, you're gonna be able to see where there's three mounting bolts, one up top and then two that are down diagonal from there. If you were to spin your front hub, you're gonna notice that there's gonna be a couple holes. Go ahead and line those up with the bolts and then start removing them.
Now, the next thing we're gonna do is just take our axle nut, start it on the axle just a few threads and then we're gonna continue on to bonking on our wheel bearing trying to break it free from the knuckle itself.
Let's go ahead and pull this off of here. There it is, friends.
Now, let's just go ahead and clean up the area. Get any grease out of here and, of course, clean up the mating area so it's nice and smooth. All right. Now, let's just clean up this entire area, paying special attention to the bolt holes as well. All right. Before we can go ahead and put in our brand new bearing, we wanna of course make sure that we clean up the threads on our mounting bolts. Let's do that now.
All right. Now, it's time to install our brand new wheel bearing. Let's go ahead and carefully slide it over the axle. We wanna make sure that the splines match up. And of course, we wanna make sure that the ABS wire is gonna be located in this general area right here and not over where the caliper is gonna be. Now, that's in there, let's go ahead and put our plate on it. That's gonna be a shield that's gonna protect the ABS wire. Now, we'll just go ahead and start in all three of our bolts. We'll snug them up and then we'll torque them to manufacturer specifications. Now, let's torque this to 133 foot-pounds. Now, let's secure our ABS wire. You're gonna notice you have little prongs, set those so they're facing down towards the control arm/ball joint. Take your bolt from the bottom to the top, start on that nut. Let's bring the other end all the way over here. Let's grab that ABS wire, connect it in. Let's go ahead and push this tab into the frame. Make sure it's nice and secure. Now, let's just go ahead and start snugging everything up.
Now, let's coat the cleaned area with some copper never-seize. Let's get that rotor on there. I'm just gonna start one of these lug nuts to hold the rotor from moving around. Now, let's carefully put our caliper over the rotor here. Now, we'll just start in both of our sliders and we'll torque them to 38 foot-pounds. Now, let's go ahead and put on the axle nut. We're gonna tighten this up by hand so it's nice and snug, and then we'll put on the wheel, torque everything down. Now, let's start on all of our lug nuts. Now, let's go ahead and torque this axle nut to 103 foot-pounds. Now, we're gonna go ahead and torque our lug nuts to 140 foot-pounds. Now that everything is torqued, let's continue on by putting on our center cover. Go ahead and snug up all of those plastic nuts.
