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1A Auto Lifetime Warranty
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and, please, next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the air compressor on this 2002 Chevy Suburban with the air ride system. It's the same part and similar process on these Suburbans from 2000 to 2013. The items you'll need are a new air compressor from 1AAuto.com, 8 millimeter and 12 millimeter socket and ratchet with an extension, T25 Torx bit, Philips screwdriver, pliers, vise, hammer, wire cutters and wire strippers.
Now, your air compressor is right here and you should probably start off by removing your spare wheel. Okay, as you can see, the compressor on our vehicle is in really poor shape and this video is basically going to show you how to replace just the compressor motor, the electronic part. You're going to reuse the other compressor parts. On this vehicle we find that it just doesn't work because of the poor shape of the rest of the compressor. If your vehicle is rusty, you may want to consider, and I'd highly recommend, spending the extra money on the entire assembly that 1AAuto sells. Then, what you want to do is just pull out the clip on this hose and pull it from the compressor. Then, you want to just reset that clip by just pushing it back in. You want to loosen these two 12 millimeter nuts and the one in through this hole, and we'll just fast forward as Mike does that. Now, lift the air compressor up and then pull it forward. You want to just push the tab on this harness and pull it free and then twist this hose free from up here.
Now, you want to just pull out these clips holding this cover into place, just using a pair of pliers. You just want to hold on to the clip and just pry it out. Do the same to the other two. Then, you want to remove these three T25 Torx bolts. We'll just fast forward as Mike does this. These are some of the parts that if they break . two of mine broke off. So, they were unusable. If I wanted to just use the motor, like I said we ended up going with the whole assembly that 1AAuto sells.
Now, on the left, is the old motor; on the right, is the new one from 1A Auto. You can see they're identical and they're going to fit exactly the same. You do have to transfer a couple of things over from the new motor though as we'll show you right now. First, you want to just pull hose free. Ours is in pretty bad shape and ended up taking half the motor with it. Just empty it out and push it into place in your new motor. Then, just pull up on the tab and disconnect this harness and then pry this connection from here. It helps to use the screwdriver to just kind of pry it out. Then, you just want to just remove this Philips screw right here. It's pretty rusty, but we do the best we can with it. Now, remove the wire ties using some wire cutters. Now, you just want to pull back this cover and pull back this cover. There's a clip right here and then clip right here. Now, you can pull your wires free. Again, just pull back that cover off of each of these wires. Now, you just want to line up your wires and then clip the wire and then use your wire strippers to strip the end of the wires. Now, you're going to want to twist the ends of those wires that you just stripped and then push the matching colors into the splices: the red wire with red wire, white wire with white wire, blue wire with blue, black with black. You can now use your crimping pliers to crimp the splices. We'll fast forward as we repeat that for all four wires.
Now we have the assembly in a vice and we're going to twist the drier free. You're supposed to be able to take these T25 bolts off and remove this bracket and transfer it. Let's see how we can transfer. Transfer it onto there and then you would wrap these wires around and clip them to that bracket. As you can see, from our old motor, there is just no way where you're going to be able to get those things apart. Now, take this air filter and just put it into a vice and twist the top off and you want to do it carefully because there is a spring inside of there. Now the new air compressor comes with a kit to rebuild this so just pull the spring out, pull the gasket off, pull this screen out and this pad. You want to dump out these pebbles and then pull out the pad on the bottom and the screen that's on the bottom as well. Put the filter back into place and put the new screen down in and the pad, then the new beads, then the pad and then another screen. Now, you can take your new spring and push that into place and then take your lid, put the new gasket around the lid and twist that down into place. Now, take the new O-ring and put it on to this end here and then just twist this into your new air compressor. Then you want to just remove this front screw using your 8 millimeter socket and ratchet and just pull that free and you can put your wire from your old compressor on to it and then put the bolt back down into place.
Reconnect this harness and then you can push these pads into their proper holes and we'll show you one of them and you just push it up into place and then repeat the process with the other two and because of the condition of our old bracket, we can't really show you putting the compressor back into the bracket but you would just put it back into place and then replace those three T25 Torx bolts and then just push that harness back into the bracket. You take your harness and connect it to your new compressor. As you can tell, the whole assembly that I'm holding is a brand new unit. Like I said, the compressor in our vehicle was so bad that this was the way we had to go, and I would recommend that, if your compressor is as rusty as ours was or even close, spend the extra money and get the whole assembly. It's a matter of just three bolts and a couple of connections to remove and replace. Push this hose up into place, and then push this hose back into place as well and then you're all set
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
Tools used
Take this center cap off. We'll just use a straight blade screwdriver. Just get behind here, slide it off. The lug nuts off. Use a 22-millimeter socket. Now take the wheel off.
Just gonna use a little rust penetrant. Spray that down. Let that soak a little bit. Just gonna use a screw jack. You can always use a jack stand underneath the control arm just to support the control arm. Spray this down. Little rust penetrant. Let it soak. Now I'm gonna use a 21-millimeter wrench on the bolt and 21-millimeter socket. Take the nut off. All right, now we can take this bolt out. If this bolt's tight in there, try to raise up on the screw jack a little bit. Just be careful. Slide that bolt out.
You can try to use a 14-millimeter wrench and then some locking pliers on the stud to prevent it from spinning. If that doesn't work for you, I'm gonna use a 14-millimeter socket and a ratchet and then I'm gonna use come channel-locking pliers or channeled pliers. Hold this from spinning. Try to loosen this up. There we go. And if you use a pneumatic gun it'll be a little bit easier. Oh, and sometimes you break it off. And that's okay. Slide this off. And slide it out.
These washers, and then the bushing. And line this in position. And take the other bushing. And the other washer. And put the nut on. Get that started. Now I'll just take a 14-millimeter ratchet wrench, then I can use a 5-millimeter wrench to hold the stud from spinning. And tighten this up. And if you can get a torque wrench on there, torque that to 15-foot-pounds. That's good. And slide the bolt through. Put the nut on. And then torque that nut to 59-foot-pounds. And lower the screw jack. Now put the wheel back on. And the lug nuts. And now I'm gonna torque these lug nuts in a star pattern or cross pattern to 140-foot-pounds to tighten the wheel down evenly. And just go around again. Double-check. And put the center cap on.
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and, please, next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the air shocks on this 2002 Chevy Suburban. It's the same part and similar process on these Suburbans with the air shocks from 2000 to 2013. The items you'll need for this are new air shocks from 1AAuto.com, 21mm socket and ratchet with an extension, 21mm wrench, pry bar, and jack and jack stands.
Start off by disconnecting this harness. Just pull up the tab and pull it free. For the air hose, you want to pull down on this clip and then pull the hose free. Then, push the clip back in to reset it. Now you want to remove this 21mm nut and this 21mm nut. Using a ratchet and a wrench, remove those and we'll fast forward as Mike does this. Jack up the wheel unless your vehicle is on the ground then you'll be all set and then pull those two bolts out. You can pull your suspension forward and out.
On the bottom is the old air shock. Above it is the new one from 1A Auto. You can see they're identical and will fit exactly the same. Put your new air shock up into place and replace that top bolt first, and then, push the lower one into place and replace those bolts and the 21mm nuts. Push your harness into place and then push your air hose into place and you're all set.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
Tools used
All right. So, one of the first things you're going to want to do is raise and support the vehicle, so that the rear suspension is hanging. Once you've done that, you're going to carefully remove your center cover, and then behind that, you're going to remove your 22-millimeter lug nuts. Remove your wheel. The next thing we're going to do is remove some of the mounting area, right along here, so that we can move this away. You're going to use a 7-millimeter on the bolts, and then of course, just draw away the push clips.
There we are. I'm just going to move this, so we have a clear view of what's going on behind there. Now, with this pulled out of the way, we have a clear view of our connection points. You have your electrical connection and your air connection. Remove the pair. Nice small pocket screwdriver. You can come in here, and you can draw out the locking clip, and then take this right off of here. Take a peek. Set it aside. With this one right here there's a little tab up along the top. You can just usually grab onto that, and then draw the electrical aside. Take a peek. Make sure you don't see any funny colors.
The next thing we're going to do is just put light pressure on the rear differential to take pressure off of the rear shock. That should be good. Now, if you were to look at the shock, you're going to see the upper mounting nut with the bolt that comes through from the inside. All right, it's going to come in this direction. From the backside, we're going to use a 21-millimeter socket deep with a ratchet, and it's just going to be able to hold this. And then we'll take off the 21-millimeter nut. We'll leave this bolt in here for now, and we'll move along to the bottom. Now, I'm going to use a 21-millimeter to hold the nut right here, and we're going to loosen up this side. If the bolts don't want to come out, you can either raise or lower the pumpkin until it's nice and free. There we are. There we are. There it is, friends.
Now, it's going to be time to install our new shock. Take one of your bolts for the top. Come in just like this. Line it up, and then we'll come from the inside and then through. Hardest part is just getting it lined up. Once you do, it should be fairly easy. Push it right on through. We're not going to tighten that up yet because next we're going to set in the bottom.
So, now if you were to look, you're going to see that your shock sits much lower than the area on the differential, so you're just going to lower it down a little bit until it gets close. That looks pretty good. Bolt from the inside to the outside. Go ahead and start on that nut. Perfect. Let's get the top nut up on here. Make sure we have this in the forward motion, so it's going to hold it on for us. Let's go ahead and bottom that out. That's good. Now, we'll torque it to manufacturer's specifications. Let's torque this to 85 foot-pounds. [inaudible 00:04:32] down on that ratchet. Torqued. Do the same to the lower. Torqued. Now, if you got a little dielectric grease, I would just go right along this wired area right here. It's going to help keep moisture out of there. And then at the same time, I would go along this area right there. But be careful not to get anything inside of the hole. Let's connect in that electrical. Make sure it clicks in. Give it a nice little tug. Make sure it doesn't slide off. Take this one and give it a little wiggle. Slide it straight on. There we are. Now, we'll make sure we put in our locking clip. Give it a nice tug. Make sure it does not come off.
All right, so now it's time to re-secure this right here. We know we had a push clip there. Let's go ahead and put that back in. Another push clip down along the bottom right there, and now we'll finish it off with the bolts, one, two, and three. Now, it's going to be time to get the wheel back up on here. Go ahead and start on a couple of those lug nuts. Now, we'll bottom them out, and we'll torque them to manufacturer's specifications. Now, it's going to be time to torque the wheels. We're going to torque these to 140-foot pounds in a crisscross pattern.
Torqued. Now, it's going to be time to install our center covers. If you were to pay attention to the back, you're going to see something that looks a lot like a valve stem. Line it up with the valve stem on your wheel, and then give it a light bonk. Clean up your wheel. Take it for a road test.
Tools used
I'm gonna take the center cap off, use a straight blade screwdriver. Take that off. Use a 22-millimeter socket, take off the lug nuts. Take the wheel off. I'm just gonna use a screw jack and support the rear axle. I'm gonna loosen this up. I'm gonna use a 21-millimeter socket and a breaker bar. And I put a wrench on this side and braced it up against the axle just make to sure you get underneath the ABS wiring harness. There you go. You got the bolt out.
Now I want to take this top bolt out. On the inside, I'm gonna use a 21-millimeter socket and an extension and just go from the backside of the frame. I'll just try to get on onto the nut and the outside, I'll use a 21-millimeter socket. I'm just gonna pull back on the shield a little bit. All right. So I got the nut off. I'm just trying to get the socket off and just move the shock around, try to get the bolt out. You might need a pry bar and I'm just gonna pry it out. And then you gotta use the pry bar up top as well.
All right, slide the old one out. Take the new shock and you just want to exercise it. Just compress it. Do this three times. Take your new shock, slide it in position. Get the bolt in. Then you can get the nut on up top, just put it in the socket. Then you just get it started. Before I tighten that up, line the lower bolt and nut up. You can lower the rear suspension down a little bit to get this to line up. Slide the bolt through. Put the nut on. Now I'm gonna torque that bolt to 70 foot-pounds. And do the same on the bottom one, 70-foot pounds. Lower the screw jack and reinstall the wheel. Put the lug nuts on. Now I'm gonna torque these lug nuts to 140-foot pounds in a star pattern to tighten the wheel down evenly. You can just go around again, double-check. Then reinstall the center cap.
