Chevrolet GMC Cadillac Front 8 Piece Steering & Suspension Kit TRQ PSA63535

Take the center cap off, use a straight blade screwdriver. Use a 22-millimeter socket. Take the lug nuts off. Pull the wheel off. Now I'm gonna use a pole jack or a screw jack and just support the lower control arm right here. Just raise it up a little bit. I'm gonna take the sway bar link out. You can use a 14-millimeter wrench up top and 14-millimeter socket underneath. Loosen this up. And if you're gonna reuse this, just try to keep it all together the best you can. These bushings are gonna fall off. Here we go.

Now I'm gonna disconnect the lower shock bolt. Use a 21-millimeter wrench on the bolt side and 21-millimeter socket. Take the nut off, right there. And you might have to adjust the control arm to get the bolt out, just like that. I'm gonna use a 36-millimeter socket. Take this axle nut off and take the washer off as well. Just wanna make sure the axle is loose from the wheel bearing. Just take a punch, go to tap. That's loose, so that's good. Before we take this axle off, just mark it so that you put it back together, put it in the exact same location that you had it. Now use a 15-millimeter socket. Take these bolts out. All right. Just take a hammer, give it a tap and just separate this. Slide this down. You should be able to slide the axle right up.

We're gonna loosen up the tension on the torsion bar. We wanna take this keyway out. To take this bolt out, you want to put this back where it was when you go to put this back together. You may still have to adjust it, but at least you can get a baseline. So what you can do is just take a socket and mark it. And loosen this up. As you loosen it, just count your turns. All right. So the tension's completely off of the keyway. Now the bolt's just in this piece right here. So I'm just gonna take it out the rest of the way. I got about 14 or 15 turns out of it. That's good.

All right. So some of the tension's off that torsion bar. I'm just gonna take this screw jack, pull jack, loosen this up. I might need to put that back up, but for right now, just leave it down. Now we need to remove this adjuster bracket. You need this special tool to do this job. What you're gonna do is there's a hole on top here where this part of the tool is gonna go into that hole. And then this is gonna push up on the keyway. Right there. So we'll tighten that up. And once it's raised up just enough, then we can push that bracket out of the way. All right. And just be careful. And pull that out. Once you pull that out, we can loosen up on the tool. Lower the keyway. And remove the tool.

All right. I'm just gonna take some rust penetrant, soak this down. Let it soak for a little while, right there. All the tension's off of that. Also on the lower control arm, right there. And on the other side. I'm gonna take a punch and there's a hole right here on the backside and just use a hammer and just try to punch the torsion bar out. There we go. That pops up and this keyway slides right down like that. This bar can just hang out right here until we take those bolts out. But before we do that, we're gonna take the ball joints off. Just use a little rust penetrant. It's a little bit rusty. Take a 24-millimeter socket, remove this nut.

There's many different front-end tools you can try to use. There's some clamps that go around here and push up on the ball joint. You can take a hammer and try to break it free that way or take a pickle fork, which is what I'm gonna do. There we go. I'm gonna take a 15/16 wrench and put it on the nut right here and then use a 18-millimeter socket. Loosen this bolt up here. I'll leave the bolt in there. Just take the nut off first and then take this nut off as well, this bolt out. There is a washer on the end of those. Take the washer off. Now, just make sure you support these controls arms or just don't be underneath them when you take these bolts out. Take that bolt out. And take those bolts out. All right. And slide this up. And you can slide the arm off the torsion bar. Slide it out of your way.

Take this grease fitting and just thread it in place to the top part of the ball joint. Take a 7-millimeter wrench and just snug it up. All right. Take the control arm, slide it over the torsion bar, go all the way through. And I'll start by lining the ball joint up and then try to position the control arm. Yeah. And take that dead blow hammer, try to hammer it in place. And take the bolt, get that bolt started. Just use a pry bar and just try to line this up. And those are both good. Put the ball joint nut on. And we'll tighten this up. And use a torque wrench and torque this to 74 foot-pounds.

Now put the washer on the bolt that goes right there and then the nut, get the nut started. And same on this back one. And then I'm gonna raise this control arm up before I tighten these bolts and nuts down. You want this control arm to be as close to ride height as possible. What is advised is putting this whole thing back together, having it on the ground and when the ride height is level, then you torque these, but that's very hard to do, so we're gonna do the best we can right now. And we're gonna torque these to 129 foot-pounds.

All right. Just lower the screw jack and take the keyway. Slide it in position and slide the torsion bar back through just like that. All right. Take the tool, put it in position. And you can tighten it up. All right. That's good. And put this bracket in. And we can loosen up on the tool. And remove the tool and put the bolt in. And before we tighten this up, I'm actually gonna attach the shock bolt. All right. Now we'll just use a screw jack. Get that lined up, get a tap, and put the nut on, and then torque this to 59 foot-pounds.

All right. Now I'm just gonna lower the screw jack down. All right. Tale the CV shafts and line it up. And just make sure you line up your paint marks. Get the bolt started. And then I'm just gonna snug these up first. I'm gonna start on this side and then rotate it 180 degrees. Tighten this one up and then just go around, snug them all down. To prevent the axle from spinning, just put a pry bar in between here. And I can use a torque wrench and torque these bolts to 58 foot-pounds. Take the washer, put the washer on, put the nut on. I'm using a pry bar and go in between the lug nuts so it doesn't spin when you go to tighten this. And torque this to 177 foot-pounds.

All right. We're gonna take the link, get the link lined up. Slide that in underneath. And get the top pushing on. All right. Now we'll tighten this up. And then we can torque this to 89 inch-pounds. Good. And take a grease gun and just push it on the grease fitting. Just give it a couple pumps. It's a good idea to watch the boot. And once you see the boot moving, then that should be enough. Now we can tighten up this bolt for the height adjuster. Make sure you count how many turns when you tighten it back up. If you took it out 20 turns, put it back to 20 to get at least a baseline, and then you can adjust accordingly. Put the wheel back up. Put the lug nuts on. Now I'm gonna torque these lug nuts to 140 foot-pounds in a star pattern to tighten the wheel down evenly. And just go around again, double-check. Install the center cap.

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Hi, I'm Mike Green. I'm one of the owners of 1A Auto. I want to help you save time and money repairing and maintaining your vehicle. I'm going to use my 20-something years experience restoring and repairing cars and trucks like this, to show you the correct way to install parts from 1A Auto.com. The right parts, installed correctly, that's going to save you time and money. Thank you, and enjoy the video.

In this video I'm going to show you inner and outer tie rod replacement. This truck actually just needed the inner, but if you're replacing the inner, you might as well replace the outer as well. These tie rods fit this whole generation of GM trucks and SUV's - trucks from 98 - 06 and SUV's from 99 - 07.
The tools you'll need are a jack and jack stands, a 22 mm lug wrench or socket and ratchet. You'll need either a 35 mm wrench or a 12 inch adjustable wrench that can go to 35 mm and then you'll need a second adjustable wrench as well, a tie rod removal tool, a grease gun, torque wrench, and pliers.
The clunking noise was the inner tie rod. You can see here, when I shake the tire back and forth you'll see the inner tie rod move but that steering arm inside doesn't move, so you know there's play in there and it needs to be replaced.

Start out by raising and securing the vehicle on a jack stand and then remove your cap and wheel. We're going to remove this bolt. We've got a ratchet. If you don't have a breaker bar, use a ratchet and a piece of pipe. The bolt should come off pretty easily. Take the bolts off most of the way. I'm planning on replacing the outer tie rod as well, so I'm going to use a pickle fork to separate it. The best way to go about this is to get the wrench on it from underneath and push. That should break her free. I'm just going to speed up as I pull that out. You want to make sure that your outer tie rod spins with the wrench so the whole assembly spins and you don't shorten or lengthen the tie rod -- the inner and outer tie rod assembly.

There's your whole assembly out. If you can see here, I've got my old assembly, inner tie rod and outer tie rod, and I want to measure right from the edge of this surface here right to the end. I'm taking my new inner tie rod and outer tie rod and I put them together, just to compare. This will give you a good preliminary alignment. We'll put this nut a little closer. We can put it together now. It will be a good preliminary alignment until you can get your vehicle to a shop where you can get a real alignment.

I'm just leaving my nut right there and spinning my outer tie rod off. The nut marks the place where your tie rod was and then taking off that outer tie rod just makes it easier to get the inner one on. That allows me put my inner tie rod on. Speed it up here as I use the wrench to tighten the tie rod up. Then I can put my outer tie rod right back on and go right up to the nut. Then I'll just fast-forward here as I put that outer tie rod back on the inner tie rod. Now I'm just taking the nut or just getting the outer tie rod in place. Take the nut off the new tie rod, and I'm just going to get some of the debris off the steering knuckle there, and then you can push on the stud on the tie rod and get it lined up with the steering knuckle, and then push it up and in, and start your nut back on.

We'll tighten this up to 65 foot-pounds. Pull a little tighter here and we can get this cotter pin through. We'll fast-forward here as we install the cotter pin and bend the end over and then use a 7 mm wrench and install our grease fitting. We'll take a wrench screw up here. The other one holds the outer tie rod and just tighten up the block nut. Now you want to use a grease gun and grease both the joint for the outer tie rod and the inner tie rod.

Use some more fast-forward here. As you put the wheel and tire back on, start all the lug nuts one by one by hand first, then use your wrench to preliminary tighten them, then you can lower the vehicle back down on the ground, torque the lug nuts to 120 foot-pounds. I'm using a crossing pattern and then I do it one more time, go around all eight and make sure they're tight. Then you can put your center cap back on and you should be all set.

We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the internet and in person.

Now one of the first things you're going to want to do before you start any job is to make sure you're safe as possible. You want to have safety glasses and hand protection at all times. The next thing you're going to want to do is safely raise and support your vehicle so that your wheel is off the ground. Next, if there's a center cap, remove the plastic center cap and that'll expose your lug nuts. Remove all six using a 22-millimeter socket. Remove your wheel.

Now that we have a nice clear view of our tie rods, I'm going to spray down this area right here. This is the adjustment area. Use a little bit of penetrant. That's going to help you along. Using some nice long pliers, I'm going to grab right onto this and I'm going to turn it clockwise. That'll break free this jam nut. Okay, that broke free. Let's remove the nut that holds that outer tie rod end to the knuckle. Now we're going to hit right here on the knuckle to break our outer tie rod end free from the knuckle.

Turn your outer tie rod end counter-clockwise and count the amount of times it turns around as you remove it. One, two, three, and so on. Okay. Write down that corresponding number so you can remember. Now it's going to be time to get the inner tie rod end off of here. Here's the new inner tie rod end. And if you were to look right along this edge right here, that's the area we're going to need to grab onto, and then turn this counter-clockwise to break it free and eventually remove it. So we'll come right under here with our nice long pliers and get it off of there. There we go.

There it is friends. Now it's going to be time to install our new inner tie rod end. You might notice that there's no grease fitting to be able to grease this. Really there is. The grease is going to come right through that hole right there and that'll happen through here, starting at this point right here at this fitting. Put grease here, it comes right through and then of course it fills up the boot on the inner tie rod end. All right. I put some thread locker on here. I'm just going to go ahead and start this thing by hand. Now that we have that, as far as we can get it by hand, let's go ahead and snug it up with our pliers. Bottomed out. Just give it a teeny bit more. Awesome. Let's remove that jam nut. Let's put a little bit of copper never seize on the inner tie rod end threads, and then we'll just work that jam nut up the inner tie rod end quite a bit here. Now that we have the threaded area coded, we have our outer tie rod end, let's go ahead and put that on. And we're going to count it in the same amount of threads that we counted the original one off. That was one, two, three, and so on.

Okay? Just bring this so it's close. Put that node off of there. Put this on there. Let's bottom that out. Now we're going to torque this nut to 48 foot-pounds. All right. So now that we have that torqued, we need to pay special attention to where the slot on the castle nut lines up with the hole in the stud. If it doesn't line up, you need to continue tightening until it does. Okay. So that looks pretty good. Let's try it. That slides right through, just pin it over. The cotter pin is going to ensure that there's no way that this nut can come loose. Now it's going to be time to tighten up your jam nut. To tighten this, we're going to turn it counter-clockwise. When you torque it, you would want to torque it to 37 foot-pounds if you have the ability.

Okay. Just make sure that it's nice and snug. By the time you're finished, make sure your outer tie rod end is nice and parallel to the ground or at least as parallel as it can be. Now it's going to be time to get the grease fitting out of here. Use your 8-millimeter. There it is. Let's clean off around the area. Grab your new grease fitting. We'll start it right in there by hand, and then we'll snug it up, nice and tight. Let's give it a little grease

Now let's get the wheel back up on here. Okay. Now with the wheel barely on the ground so it can't spin, we're going to torque the lug nuts to 140 foot-pounds. Torqued. If you have a center cover, put it on there now. Now that you've finished your service, go ahead and take it for a road test and make sure you get it down to a local reputable alignment shop.

So before you do this job, you wanna keep in mind that after you're done, you're gonna have to go to an alignment shop and have the vehicle aligned so you don't burn out your tires and have premature tire wear.

Now, I'm gonna remove the wheel. Use a 22-millimeter socket. Take off the lug nuts. Take the wheel off. I'm gonna take the sway bar link out. Now this link's been replaced before. If you had the OEM link, you're gonna need to use some pliers at the top of this. For this one, I'm going to use a 14-millimeter wrench and a 14-millimeter socket on the bottom. And just take this out. If it's still good, you can reuse it.

All right, I'm gonna take these axle bolts out. Before I take this out, I just wanna mark the flange just so when I put it back together, it goes together the same way it came apart. Just use some paint or a marker. Now, I'm gonna use a 15-millimeter socket to take these bolts out. Now I can separate this and just slide this down out of the way. Now, I'll take a 36-millimeter socket and take the axle nut off, and take this washer off as well. There we go. Now, if the axle is stuck in there, you're gonna wanna use a punch and a hammer and tap it out that way. If it's not stuck, then you can just grab the axle and just slide it out.

Now we need to take the torsion bar keyways out. When we take this bolt out, you can take a tape measure and just measure where the bolt was. So a little more than half an inch, almost three quarters of an inch right there, so you can put it back to where it was. Or you can put a line on your socket and just count the threads when you take it out.

I'm using a 18-millimeter socket. Now, next I need to take this bracket out, but because the keyway is putting pressure on it, I can't take it out. So you need a special tool like this specifically made for this. There's a little nub on the top. There's a hole in this bracket right here. You just slide this through here over the cross-member as you tighten the keyway up. Once there's an air gap on top of that, you can take that bracket out.

Just try to slide this out. Watch your fingers. Once you get that out, you can take the tool off. All right. Now, I'm gonna use a punch and a big hammer and just tap. You wanna tap the torsion bar straight forward. And when it starts moving, just be careful of the keyway because the keyway could just fall. If that doesn't work, I'm gonna use an air chisel and try to slide that forward. There we go. Starting to get movement. You can take a little rust penetrant and spray down the cam and you can also spray down the lower control arm.

There we go. All right. So that popped out. And there's the keyway. All right. So there's no tension from the torsion bar on the lower control arm, but I'm gonna take a screw jack and just support the lower control arm, just about that much. And then I'm gonna take the shock bolt out. Use a 21-millimeter socket and a 21-millimeter wrench.

I'm gonna take that bolt out. Now, I can lower the screw jack. Now, the upper control arm is eventually gonna get supported by that ear right there. So once we take the control arm out, the knuckle is gonna fall a little bit, but it'll be supported right there, or even by the tension on the upper control arm bushings. I'm gonna take a 24-millimeter socket and loosen up this nut. We don't have to take it off completely. You can leave a couple threads on there. And then we're gonna separate the ball joint from the knuckle.

All right. I'm gonna use a pickle fork to separate this. There is other tools you could use that actually grab on here and just push it through. Use whatever works for you. There we go. And now I'm gonna take the control arm bushing bolts out. I'm gonna use a 15/16 wrench or a 24-millimeter wrench on the nut and then use an 18-millimeter socket on the bolt.

And I'm not gonna take the bolt out yet. I'm gonna get the other one off first. Now, there is a washer. Also, take those washers off. Now, try to slide those bolts out. You can tap them out with a hammer and use a pry bar. Just pry this out. I'll just slide the torsion bar straight forward, and then we can slide it back and just slide it out. Now we're gonna take this nut off and slide the control arm up.

When you take the torsion bar out, you wanna keep in mind which direction it came out. And if you mark it with the...which end is the back and which end is the front. Just take the grease fitting, get the grease fitting started and take a 7-millimeter wrench and just snug it up. That's good. All right. Now we'll just put this in the same way it came out. Start with the ball joint and put the nut on. Now, I'll just slide the torsion bar back in position. Remember the back goes towards the back of the vehicle. Slide this through the front, and go through the crossmember over here, and towards the back of the vehicle. All right.

All right. Now, just line the control arm up. Just be careful, watch your fingers. You can use a pry bar if you have to. Get them between here and take the bolt. Slide the bolt in. Make sure you put those little washers on, and same with this one. Now we're gonna tighten up the lower ball joint nut. Snug that up first. And then we're gonna torque it. And then torque this nut to 74 foot pounds.

So now we wanna tighten these two bolts. Now, when you tighten these down because of the bushings there, you want this lower control arm as close to ride height as possible. So I'm gonna use a screw jack and raise this up to how it would be for ride height, as close as possible. Ideally, you wanna put this all back together and torque these bolts on the ground, but it's kind of hard to access these bolts while the vehicle is on the ground. So we'll do it now. That looks good. I'm just gonna snug these up first.

Now with my 15/16 wrench and 18-millimeter socket, I will torque these to 129 foot pounds. There we go. Now, I can lower this down. As I lower this down, I'll get the shock bolt, line that up. I'll snug this up first, then I'll torque the lower shock bolt to 59 foot pounds. That's good. Now I can lower the screw jack, put it out of the way. Now, we're gonna slide the axle back in the CV shaft, and just line this up with the mark that you made. That's good right there. And get these bolts started.

Now, I'm just gonna snug these up first. Now, I'm gonna torque these bolts to 58 foot pounds. And to prevent the axle from spinning, I can use a pry bar and just hold the lug nuts, go in between the lug nuts, and just go around one at a time. I made it all the way around them. Now I'll put the washer back on and then the nut. Snug this down first. Now you can lower the vehicle down to the ground, and just use a pry bar to prevent this from spinning, or you can just torque it like this, and torque this nut to 177 foot pounds.

All right. Now, you can always take a wire brush and just clean some of the rust out of the keyway and same with the torsion bar, and just slide the keyway back in position. And slide the torsion bar in, just like that. Try to get it as close as it was when you took it apart. That looks pretty good. And you can always compare it to the other side.

Now, we'll take the tool. Tighten this back up. All right, now, we'll tighten this up. I'm gonna take that bracket and slide it through. Now the round part goes on the bottom. Just keep your fingers out of there. That's good. And loosen up on the tool. Get the bolt, get the bolt started. And when you put this back in, you can always count the turns. Going back in, put it back where it was.

You wanna take your tape measure and just double check. A little bit looser than... I love that. That looks good. You can always check your ride height adjustment afterwards at the tires and adjust accordingly. Put the sway bar link back in. There we go. And get the nuts started on top. Pick my wrench, snug this up. And then we're gonna torque this to 89 inch pounds. Make sure you're on inch pounds, not on foot pounds.

And then reinstall the wheel and then put the lug nuts on. Now, I'm gonna torque these lug nuts to 140 foot pounds in a cross pattern to tighten the wheel down evenly. I'll just go around again and double check.

All right. So one of the first things you need to do is safely raise and support the vehicle. Once you've done that, you're gonna remove all six of your lug nuts. Remove your wheel. Now what we're gonna do is we're gonna get the ABS wire out of the way. The last thing we wanna do when we're doing any of the work on this upper control arm is to put a tug or damage this in any way. If you were to follow it up, you'll be able to see right where the connector is. I'm gonna remove that connector from the frame using my forky tool. Pull it down to where you can see it. Grab this tab. Lift it. Pull it off. These right here, you can remove. Just use a small pocket screwdriver or whatever you might have. Get right in between this area right there. We'll do the same down the line. Let's work on getting this brake hose off of the control arm now. We're gonna remove this 10-millimeter headed bolt. That's very common for them to break. Kinda wiggle it around. Get it off of there. The next thing we need to do is come right down here. We need to remove this upper ball joint nut. Once we remove that, we're gonna break the knuckle free from the upper ball joint control arm. There we go. Get that off of there. Put that nut on there. Just a couple threads and I'll show you why in a second.

The next thing we're gonna do is use our pickle fork and our hammer, then we're going to come right in between this joint and separate the two. When it separates, the knuckle is gonna wanna drop and move away. If it dropped and moved away, there's a possibility that it could put a tug on your axle or even maybe something such as your brake hose. We don't want that to happen. That's what this nuts for. It's a safety nut. Leave that there for now. So now I'm just gonna use a bungee cord or pretty much anything that you might have that can prevent this from falling down because we need to get that nut off there but we still wanna make sure we have control of this. There we are. Carefully set that aside. Let's spray this down with some penetrant. Take a peek right under here and make sure that you don't have a snap ring. A lot of vehicles won't, yours may. Now it's gonna be time to get our ball joint press set up on here. You're gonna need a cup that fits directly over the top of that ball joint up all along that control arm. You're gonna need a piece like this that has a spot in the center that the driver's gonna sit right into. Now we'll just go ahead and put this right over that ball joint stud and then we'll snug this up.

Now we're just gonna go ahead and tighten this up. And we're trying to press the ball joint up and through the control arm. You can't really see much of what's going on but what should be happening is the ball joint's gonna be coming up and separating. So it looks like that's working pretty well. I can see it starting to separate right there. So what I'm gonna do next is I'll loosen this back up and now I'm gonna try using something else as a spacer to continue driving this up. Get that boot off there. And there it is friends. Just a quick overview of the new ball joint before we go ahead and install it. If you were to look at it, it pretty much looks the same all the way around unless of course you took the boot off and then you took a peek underneath. If you look, you're gonna see there's a flat edge there and a flat edge here. You need the pivot point, which would be the opened areas of this ball joint, to be facing in and out of the vehicle or to the left and the right, not front to back. You don't want this to pivot front to back. That's not the way it needs to go. It would need to go this way so I can pivot in and out or left and right on the vehicle. All right. So we've got our ball joint here. You can see it comes with a little hole on the top. We're just gonna line that up facing straight out towards us. That looks pretty great.

Now I'm gonna take my ball joint press kit and I'm gonna use the piece that looks like this. That's gonna sit right over the top and that's where the driver is gonna go down against. You need to have something covering this ball joint. You cannot press directly against it. I'm gonna use a cup that has a hole in it on the bottom for the lower part. Come right in just like this. And having the hole in the bottom is gonna make it so that the stud will be able to come through as the ball joint presses in. Start that right on there. Now I'm gonna snug this up. All right. Let's go ahead and bottom this out. We're gonna bring the ball joint right down to the control arm. As we do this, you wanna make sure the ball joint's going as straight down as possible. If it seems as though it's going off-kilter in any direction, you need to stop, try to fix the ball joint, straighten it out. Now I'm just gonna take a look. I can see the ball joint is hitting directly against the control arm. I'm gonna double check to make sure it's all the way around. That looks perfect. While we still have the press on here and it's giving it a lot of force, I'm just gonna bonk on this control arm a couple times just to cause a little bit of vibration and maybe set this in if it's just got a little bit more to go. That's great. Let's get this out of here.

It's super important to make sure that you put your snap ring on here. The snap ring is gonna keep this ball joint from eventually or potentially working its way out of the control arm. Grab some pliers that look like this. They're gonna have two little pitons on them and they're gonna fit right inside the holes on the snap ring. Once you spread them, you'll notice that it opens up. We're gonna come right over the ball joint and we're gonna put it up into that lip that's up near the control arm. We've got that over there. Double check to make sure it's seated all the way around. It needs to be in there completely. That looks perfect. Let's grab the boot. So let's turn over our boot and take a little look right here. You're gonna see where the stud comes through. It has a little area that looks different than the rest. That area needs to be facing in-board or towards the inside of the vehicle. So we'll put that facing just like that and it's facing towards the frame. Now we can take some pliers or whatever you might have and we need to get the boot so it's sitting up on top of the ball joint. Double check the boot. Make sure it's sitting perfectly all the way around. As long as it is, now we're gonna grab the knuckle. Bring it up. We're gonna put the stud through. We're gonna need a little bit of leverage though.

I'm gonna use a nice long pry bar. Come across the top of the control arm here/ball joint and under the frame. I'll pull it down and then I'll start in the nut. Give this a little turn. Bring it up. Okay. Let's get our pry bar. Bring that ball joint down and into the knuckle. There we are. Let's start the nut on. Just go ahead and get this thing so it's snugged up. Okay. The torque for this nut is 37 foot-pounds. Will you be able to get a socket and a torque wrench in between here? Probably not. 37 foot-pounds isn't really very much but it is definitely tight. So bottom it out, give it a little bit more, and then we're gonna definitely make sure that the cotter pin hole is gonna line up between the nut and the stud. Okay. So now I'm just gonna take a peek and I can see where the slot and the nut is, and I can see where the hole and the stud is. You wanna line those up. Put the cotter pin through just like that. Now we'll just peen this down and then curl it over. This is gonna make sure that there's no way that that nut can loosen up on its own. At this point, we don't need this on there anymore. Let's get that ABS wire back connected. Give it a nice tug. Make sure it's completely connected and now make sure it's secured to the frame. The next thing you would wanna do is make sure you secure your brake hose.

Go ahead and put that bolt back in, assuming yours didn't break. If it did, you need to make sure you secure it with something such as maybe a tie of some sort, or even drill out the hole and re-tap it if you needed to. Now before we go ahead and put the wheel back up on there, just double-check everything. Make sure that your ABS wire is connected. Make sure your ball joint's sitting flush. The boot's on the way that it needs to be and you definitely have a locking cotter pin holding that nut on the stud. Now let's go ahead and torque our lug nuts to 140 foot-pounds. Center cap, go ahead and pop it on there. Now that you've finished your service, go ahead and take it for a road test and make sure you get it down to a local reputable alignment shop.

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Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.

In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the lower control arm on this 2002 Chevy Suburban. We show you on the passenger's side, but on the driver's side it's the same procedure. It's the same part and similar process on these Suburbans from 2000 and 2006.The items you'll need include a new lower control arm from 1AAuto.com, a 14mm, 15mm, 18mm, 21mm, 22mm, 24mm, and 35mm socket and ratchet with a socket extension, a 21mm wrench, locking pliers, a hammer, a pry bar, a torque wrench, a jack and jack stand, spray paint, and the reciprocating saw depending on the condition of your vehicle. We do recommend two people for this job, and also air-powered tools.

Start off by spraying this bolt with some spray paint, so that you can match up to the same thread where it was. Then, just remove your hubcap by loosening up these lug nut caps and pulling the hubcap free, and then pry up this cap. Loosen this 35mm nut, but don't remove it. Now, you want to remove your lug nuts. If you don't have air-powered tools, you want to do it while the vehicle is on the ground, loosen them preliminarily, raise the vehicle, remove the lug nuts the rest of the way, and then pull the tire off.

Now that the paint has had a chance to dry, just loosen this bolt all the way up, which loosens up the tension on the torque tube. Remove this 24mm nut. Now, you want to loosen these, and it's a 24mm nut and a 22mm bolt. We'll just fast forward as Mike loosens both of these. You can remove the nut, but you want to keep the bolt in place. Using locking pliers, clip on to the top of your stabilizer link. Then remove this 14mm bolt. Next, you want to remove this 21mm nut. In order to do that, you're going to first want to just jack up the lower control arm. This will release some of the pressure on the shock. Then, just remove that 21mm bolt. Now, with the nut back in place, on the bottom of your lower control arm, just put the jack underneath it, and just push this up. Then hammer on the side of it and the knuckle will fall off of the lower control arm. Now you can lower the jack.

Next, you want to jack up underneath the lower control arm and remove the nut. If you have air-powered tools you can just remove this 35mm nut the rest of the way, and then remove the washer behind it. If you don't, you can use your socket and ratchet, but you will need someone to apply the brakes while you do this. You also want to remove the stabilizer link now. Ours is jammed in there, we tried with a hammer to knock it out, but we have to end up using a reciprocating saw to remove it the rest of the way. Meaning, we will need to use a new stabilizer link.
Now, you want to remove these bolts around the axle. Use a pry bar on the hub, you just hold that into place and then loosen up and remove each of those 15mm bolts. Now, just hammer the axle over to the side a little bit to break it free, and then pull it straight back and out of the wheel, and just pull it down and out. Push the shock out of the lower control arm. Then jack up the lower control arm until the wheel knuckle falls through. Now, lift up the wheel knuckle, and just let the jack fall free. You can pull it out the rest of the way. Then just remove those two bolts that you left on the back of the lower control arm. We'll fast forward as Mike does this.

Once you remove that bolt, you can just pull the control arm down. You want to have someone lift up the wheel knuckle, or you can try to do both, but it's a lot easier with an extra person to lift that up. Pull that control arm down and over. On the right is the old control arm, on the left is the new one from 1A Auto; you can see they're identical and they'll fit exactly the same. You want to get the control arm onto the torsion bar first. Sorry, we didn't take a good video, we didn't take a good angle, but I'm working the nut part of the control arm onto the torsion bar. Once I get that in place, then push up in place and work your bolts back in.

We'll just fast forward as he replaces both nuts and tightens them up preliminarily. Once you get the bolts back in you can use a jack to support the control arm, and then line up the stud or the ball joint into the steering knuckle, and then let the jack down. Then, actually put the jack underneath the steering knuckle and support just the steering knuckle. Raise the steering knuckle into place and put the bolt onto the ball joint. Then tighten that up. Tighten up those other two bolts as well. Now, feed you axle back into place, and line up the back. Just replace those 15mm bolts. We'll just fast forward as Mike does this.

Now, using your pry bar to hold the wheel still again, you just want to torque each of those bolts to 65 foot-pounds. Now, you want to put your stabilizer link back into place, starting with a washer and a grommet, then through the hole, then another grommet, then a washer, then the tube; then, before going through the next hole, another washer and grommet; then, on the top another grommet and another washer, then the nut. If you don't have much room up there, then you can just use your jack stand to help push it through. You want to do this until you can get the nut on the tall. You can tighten up this 18mm bolt back to the line of the paint. Replace the lower bolt and the shock, and just tighten that up. We'll fast forward as Mike does this.

I'm torquing the control arm bolts. You'll notice I have the jack underneath the control arm. I've basically got the full weight on the control arm, getting in position, so when you torque them they'll be in the riding position. Now tighten up your link so that the bushings are basically the same width as the washers, and replace this 35mm nut and tighten it up. Put the wheel back into place, and then replace each of your lug nuts and tighten them up. You want to tighten them preliminarily, lower the vehicle and then tighten them the rest of the way. Torque each lug nut in a crossing pattern to 100 foot-pounds. Okay, now torque your center hub nut to 160 foot-pounds, and then put the dust cap on there, which if you notice I forgot to do, then put the hubcap on.

We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.

You wanna keep in mind when you're doing this job, after you're done, you're gonna wanna go to a local garage and have the vehicle aligned so you don't have premature tire wear.

Take this center cap off. We'll just use a straight blade screwdriver. Just get behind here, slide it off. Get the lug nuts off. Use a 22-millimeter socket. Now take the wheel off.

Loosen up this jam nut. I'm gonna use a 7/8 wrench. And just take some rust penetrant, this thing's a little bit rusty. So let that soak a little bit. Now take a 18-millimeter socket. Take this nut off. And take a hammer and just hit the bottom of the tie rod to release it from the knuckle. Just like that. Now I'm gonna take off the tie rod. Just count how many turns you have. So 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 7, 21, 22. And write that number down. And take the outer tie rod, one, two. And then count the turns that you counted before, 3, 21, 22. Take the jam nut off. I mean, the castle nut off. And slide it in the knuckle. Slide the stud part into the knuckle. Put the nut on. Just gonna use a pry bar. Pry down on the outer tie rod end to prevent the stud from spinning. And just snug this up a little bit. It's the 18-millimeter socket. And torque this to 37-foot-pounds. And if the hole doesn't line up for the cotter pin, just tighten the castle nut until it lines up. Little more. Should be good. Put the cotter pin through. And take my cutters and just bend this over. And just trim the excess. Tighten up this jam nut. I'm gonna use a 13/16 wrench. And if you have the ability to torque it, torque it to 36-foot-pounds.

Put the wheel on. And the lug nuts. And now I'm gonna torque these lug nuts in a star pattern or cross pattern to 140-foot-pounds to tighten the wheel down evenly. And just go around again. Double-check. And put the center cap on.

Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.

Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.

In this video, we're going to show how to replace an outer tie rod on this 2002 Chevy Suburban, and it's the same part and similar process on these Suburbans from 2001 to 2006. We show you on the passenger side, but the driver side is the same procedure. The items you'll need for this are a new outer tie rod from 1AAuto.com; 7mm, 13mm, 18mm and 22mm socket and ratchet; flat-blade screwdriver; adjustable wrench; tape measure; pliers; hammer; and a grease gun.

You want to just loosen up these 22mm caps, and then pull the hubcap free. Then, you want to loosen these lug nuts while the vehicle is on the ground, then raise the vehicle and remove them the rest of the way, unless you have air-powered tools. Then, you can do it while it's in the air.

Now you want to measure from the boot on your inner tie rod to the edge of your outer tie rod and just remember that measurement. Now, using your adjustable wrench, loosen up this nut right here, and then you want to remove this 18mm nut down here. Now just hit on your knuckle with a hammer and this is going to break up that outer tie rod and make it easier to pull out. Now just hold this nut with the adjustable wrench, pull the outer tie rod off and just twist it until it comes free. We'll fast forward as Don does this. You want to make sure that the inner tie rod doesn't spin while you're removing the outer tie rod.

Now, put the grease fitting into your new outer tie rod and just tighten that 7mm grease fitting up. Then twist the outer tie rod back onto your inner tie rod and push it down into place. Now, replace the castle nut and just tighten that up. Then push the cotter pin through and, using your pliers, just bend the ends of it. Now, using your grease gun, fill the tie rod with grease. Measure, and you should get about the same distance. That's a good preliminary alignment. You should have your car aligned after this. Tighten up the lock nut to hold it in place.

Now replace your wheel and then replace those lug nuts and tighten them preliminarily. Lower the vehicle and tighten them the rest of the way. Now torque the lug nuts in a crossing pattern to 100 foot-pounds. Replace the hubcap and tighten up those caps.

We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.

Before you start, you wanna be aware that after you're done this job, you're gonna wanna go to an alignment specialist so that you can have the vehicle aligned so you don't wear out the tires prematurely.

I'm gonna remove the wheel. Use a 22-millimeter socket, take the lug nuts off. And take the wheel off.

I'm gonna loosen up the jam nut. You can use a 22-millimeter wrench or a 7/8 wrench. Just get that loose. That's good. I'm just gonna spray a little rust penetrant on here. Gonna use an 18-millimeter socket, take this nut off. And if the nut doesn't come off and the stud starts spinning, you can use an 8-millimeter socket to hold that stud from spinning and then just use the wrench to take the nut off. Now you can take a hammer and just give a tap on the bottom of the tir rod or take a pickle fork and separate it this way. Just if you use a pickle fork, it's probably gonna rip the boot right here. So I'm just gonna give it a hit right here. There we go. And now we're gonna take the outer tie rod off. As we unscrew this, just count the threads. So 1, 2, 3, 4, 23, 24. So write that number down and when you go to put it back together, you're gonna count them to put the other one in the same position that that one was in.

And take the new tie rod end. Get this started. Make sure you count. One, 2, 3, 4, 5, 22, 23, 24. And line this up in the knuckle. Take the castle nut. Get that started. Now what you can do is to prevent the stud from spinning, you can take a prybar. Just pry in between the knuckle and pry down on the tie rod. Use an 18-millimeter socket and tighten this up. And tighten this to 37 foot-pounds. And then just check to see where the stud...where the hole is for the castle nut and if you need to, you can snug it up a little bit more to get it to line up. And that hole lines up. Now take the cotter pin, slide it through. Should slide through this way. And take some side cutters and just bend it. Just tap it out of the way. And then trim off the excess. And we'll snug up the jam nut. And tighten that to 50 foot-pounds.

Put the wheel back on. And the lug nuts. Now we're gonna tighten these lug nuts down to 140 foot-pounds and I'm gonna do it in a cross pattern to tighten the wheel down evenly. And just go around again, double-check.

Before you start, you wanna be aware that after you're done this job, you're gonna wanna go to an alignment specialist so that you can have the vehicle aligned so you don't wear out the tires prematurely.

I'm gonna remove the wheel. Use a 22-millimeter socket. Take the lug nuts off. And take the wheel off. I'm gonna loosen up the jam nut. You can use a 22-millimeter wrench or a 7/8 wrench. Just get that loose. That's good. I'm just gonna spray a little rust penetrant on here. And use an 18-millimeter socket, take this nut off. And if the nut doesn't come off and the stud starts spinning, you can use an 8-millimeter socket to hold that stud from spinning, and then just use the wrench to take the nut off. Now you can take a hammer and just give a tap on the bottom of the tie rod, or take a pickle fork and separate it this way. Just if you use a pickle fork, it's probably gonna rip the boot right here. I'm just gonna give it a hit right here. There we go. And now we're gonna take the outer tie rod off. As we unscrew this, just count the threads. So 1, 2, 3, 4, 23, 24. So write that number down. And when you go to put it back together, you're gonna count them to put the other one in the same position that that one was in.

Now I'm gonna take off the inner tie rod end. I'm gonna use a large adjustable wrench because I don't have a wrench that's big enough to fit this. Slide this over and loosen it up. And eventually we'll get that off. Take the inner tie rod end and get this started. Now we're gonna tighten this up with the adjustable wrench. If you have the ability to torque this, you wanna torque this to 74-foot-pounds. Just do the best you can. That's good. Then you wanna take a grease gun and hook it up to this grease fitting and give it a couple pumps. You can do it until you start seeing the boot move a little bit, then you know there's plenty of grease in there. And take the new tie rod end. Get this started. Make sure you count 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 22, 23, 24 and line this up in the knuckle. Take the castle nut, get that started. Now, what you can do is to prevent the stud from spinning, you can take a pry bar, just pry in between the knuckle and pry down on the tie rod, use an18-millimeter socket and tighten this up. And tighten this to 37-foot-pounds. And then just check to see where the hole is for the castle nut. And if you need to, you can snug it up a little bit more to get it to line up. And that that hole lines up. Now take the cotter pin, slide it through, actually we'll slide it through this way and take some side cutters and just bend it. Tap it out of the way, and then trim off the excess. And we'll snug up the jam nut and tighten that to 50-foot-pounds. Put the wheel back on and the lug nuts. I'm gonna take these lug nuts down to 140-foot-pounds, and I'm gonna do it in a cross pattern to tighten the wheel down evenly. Just go around again. Double-check.

Now one of the first things you're gonna wanna do before you start any job is to make sure you're safe as possible. You wanna have safety glasses and hand protection at all times. The next thing you're gonna wanna do is safely raise and support your vehicle so that your wheels are off the ground. Next, if there's a center cap, remove the plastic center cap and that will expose your lug nuts. Remove all 6 using a 22-millimeter socket. Remove your wheel. Now that we have a nice clear view of our tire rods, I'm gonna spray down this area right here. This is the adjustment area. Use a little bit of penetrant. That's gonna help you along. Using some nice long pliers, I'm gonna grab right onto this and I'm gonna turn it clockwise. That'll break free this jam nut. Okay, that broke free. Let's remove the nut that holds the outer tie rod end to the knuckle.

Now we're gonna hit right here on the knuckle to break our outer tie rod end free from the knuckle. Turn your outer tie rod end counterclockwise and count the amount of times it turns around as you remove it. One, two, three and so on. Okay. Write down that corresponding number so you can remember. We have our outer tie rod end. Let's go ahead and put that on. And we're gonna count it in the same amount of threads that we counted the original one off. That was one, two, three and so on. Okay. Just bring this so it's close. Get that nut off of there. I'm gonna put this on there. Let's bottom that out. Now we're gonna torque this nut to 48 foot-pounds. All right. So now that we have that torqued, we need to pay special attention to where the slot on the castle nut lines up with the hole in the stud. If it doesn't line up, you need to continue tightening until it does. Okay, so that looks pretty good. Let's try it.

That slides right through. Spin it over. The cotter pin's gonna ensure that there's no way that this nut can come loose. Now it's gonna be time to tighten up your jam nut. To tighten this we're gonna turn it counter clockwise. When you torque it, you would wanna torque it to 37 foot-pounds if you have the ability. Let's see here. Okay. Just make sure that it's nice and snug. By the time you're finished, make sure your outer tie rod end is nice and parallel to the ground or at least as parallel as it can be. Now let's get the wheel back up on here. Okay. Now with the wheel barely on the ground so it can't spin, we're gonna torque the lug nuts to 140 foot-pounds. Torqued. If you have a center cover, put it on there now. Now that you've finished your service, go ahead and take it for a road test and make sure you get it down to a local reputable alignment shop.

You want to keep in mind when you're doing this job after you're done, you're going to want to go to a local garage and have the vehicle aligned so you don't have premature tire wear. Take the center cap off. I'll just use a straight blade screwdriver, just get behind here, slide it off. Take the lug nuts off. Use a 22-millimeter socket. Gonna take the wheel off. [inaudible 00:00:34] off this jam nut. I'm going to use a 7/8 wrench. And just take some rust penetrant, this thing is a little bit rusty so let that soak a little bit. Gonna take a 18-millimeter socket, take this nut off. And take a hammer and just hit the bottom of the tie rod to release it from the knuckle. Just like that.

Now when I take off the tie rod, just count how many turns you have. So 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 7...21, 22 and write that number down. Now I'm going to take a large adjustable wrench and loosen up the inner tie rod end. And loosen this up and just slide it off. Take a little thread locker, put it on the threads before you put the new one on and line it up. And then use my adjustable wrench to tighten this up. If you have the ability to use a torque wrench and torque this, you want to torque this to 74 foot-pounds. And take the outer tie rod, one, two, and then count the turns that you counted before. Three...21, 22. Take the jam nut not off...I mean the castle nut off and slide it in the knuckle. Slide the stud part into the knuckle. Put the nut on. Just gonna use a pry bar, pry down on the outer tie rod in to prevent the stud from spinning, and just snug this up a little bit. Use the 18-millimeter socket. And torque this to 37 foot-pounds. And if the hole doesn't line up for the cotter pin, just tighten the castle nut until it lines up. Little more. Should be good. Put the cotter pin through. And take my cutters and just bend this over then just trim the excess.

Tighten up this jam nut. I'm going to use a 13/16 wrench, and if you have the ability to torque it, torque it to 36 foot-pounds. There's a grease fitting right here. Just take a grease gun and give it a couple pumps. And I really give it a couple of pumps until I see the boot move a little bit. And that's good. Put the wheel back on. And the lug nuts. And now I'm gonna torque these lug nuts in a star pattern or cross pattern to 140 foot-pounds to tighten the wheel down evenly. And just go around again, double-check. And put the center cap on.