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1A Auto Lifetime Warranty
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Part Details
TRQ suspension kits are manufactured using premium raw materials and coatings for extended service life. Each TRQ suspension component is designed to be a direct, maintenance-free replacement to the stock unit. To extend the life of your steering and suspension components, TRQ recommends replacing components in pairs, sets, or kits. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Product Features
Replacing struts used to require specialized tools to compress, remove, and transfer the old spring and mount. Our Pre-assembled, complete strut & spring assemblies come with all new parts and make the job much quicker and easier for the do-it-yourself mechanic.
Strut & spring assembly contains:
Install Tip: When replacing steering components, have a professional alignment performed afterwards. This ensures proper tracking and even tire wear.
Our steering and suspension components are pre-greased and sealed for long life and do not require the extra maintenance typically required by greaseable versions.
Item Condition:
New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Chromium (Hexavalent Compounds), which is known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks!
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace a front strut with an unloaded strut from 1AAuto.com on this 2010 Buick Enclave. We show you on the passenger side, but the driver's side is the same procedure. The items you'll need is that new unloaded strut from 1AAuto.com, flat blade screwdriver, 8mm, 15mm, 18mm, 21mm, 22mm, and 24mm socket and ratchet, 18mm wrench, torque wrench, spring compressors, a 13/16 spark plug socket, and jack and jack stands.
Start off by prying off your hub cap and then remove these 22mm lug nuts. You want to just loosen them while the vehicle is on the ground and then raise the vehicle up and remove them the rest of the way. Now the wheel will pull free.
Pry up the cap at the end of your wiper arm and then remove this 15mm nut. Then either using a wiper arm puller or just pushing it in and out and using penetrating oil and pulling it off, you want to remove the wiper arm, but a wiper puller helps. You just twist it. It pops it off the stud and you can pull it free. Then you just want to repeat the process on the other wiper arm.
Now you need to remove these four clips, and you can either use a pick and you just pry up the center of the clip and then pull the clip up and out, or you can use a flat blade screw driver, pry up the center, and then pry out the bottom. Remove this ground and pull it free. Then pry out this clip right here, and there's another one on the other side. You just need to pry them out of the body of the car, peel off this adhesive pad from the cowl panel, and do the same thing on the other side. Then pry up this clip right here on the driver's side of the cowl panel, and then pull up sharply on the cowl panel and it will release the clips. Then do the same thing for the other side. Then you want to just pull this up. Make sure all the clips have released and then pull the panel free.
Now you want to remove two of these three 15mm nuts, and then the last nut you just want to loosen most of the way. Use a flat blade screwdriver and pry out the clip that holds your brake line in place. Then an 18mm socket and ratchet you just want to get the bolt on the end of the stabilizer link to move. You have it moving. Then use an 18mm wrench and then an 8mm socket and ratchet. The 8mm socket and ratchet hold the stud into place while you remove them with the wrench.
You might have to a couple of times, spray some penetrating oil on, re-tighten the nut, and then loosen it back up. You can see, it just pulls right out. Now remove these two 24mm nuts, and you can loosen them up with a breaker bar, or you can use power tools. Once you get those nuts to a certain point, just put them back on just a little bit, and then pull this harness out of here. Just make sure you put the nuts on so they're flush with the bolts. Once you get them moving, then take the nuts off. All right, we've got the jack supporting the suspension just a little bit, so this comes up nice and loose. You want to make sure that your steering knuckle doesn't pull too far out. Remove the nut. Now we just wire tighten this right here so there's not too much stress on the axle or too much stress on the hose here.
Now with the strut out, you have to compress the spring. I've got my spring compressors. I'm just going to tighten those up. This is a large spark plug socket and it's got an insert in here to hold the spark plug up. I'm just going to take a 90-degree pick and pull that insert out so it's wide open. Put a 7/8 wrench on here and then there's a 9mm socket and I have an adapter on it to get it to 3/8. This socket is on here really tight, so I want to knock it off first.
Now you can just remove that nut and pull the top off with the spring and this pad. Take your new strut. Just loosen up the nut on the top and it will just pull out. Take this boot, transfer it over and transfer over this pad. Once you have that lined up, take the spring and lower it into place. Then the same way you got the previous nut off, you want to do that again to tighten this one back on. We'll fast-forward as Mike does that.
Before I tighten it up, I've just got my spring there, which it's in my cushion correctly. Make sure it's right there on the platform of the strut as well where it's supposed to be. Then, just to preliminarily aim, this should be facing towards the outside of the car, and then this stud here, the big one, should be towards the outboard part of the car. Once you line it up, tighten up the nut that holds the spring out of the strut, and then make sure it stays lined up as you loosen up your spring compressors.
Now feed the strut back up into place. You just want to push those studs through, replace one of the nuts preliminarily to just hold it there, and then line up the wheel knuckle into the strut. Then replace one of those bolts just to help hold it into place. Then replace the other bolt, and you can just hammer them in the rest of the way. Now just replace those two nuts. You can adjust your alignment, so you will need to have your vehicle aligned after you install these.
It looks like mine is pretty close to the middle. The top one is fixed, but the bottom one you can flex by pushing in or out on the knuckle. I'm actually just looking in behind. I can see a nice line where my old one was sitting. I'm just going to line it up there and then tighten it up preliminarily. I'm going to torque these to 120 foot-pounds.
Jack the strut up into place. I'm just going to put these 15mm nuts back on. I'll preliminarily tighten them, but we're going to torque them once the vehicle is back on the ground with the wheel on. Take the harness clip from your old strut and it just pulls out. Then you just push it into place in the new strut. Then re-clip the harness into that clip. Push this clip back into the lower part of the strut. Push the sway bar link back into place, and then just replace that nut and tighten it up.
Now you can replace the wheel, and then just replace the lug nuts and tighten them preliminarily in a crossing pattern. Then you want to lower the vehicle and tighten these the rest of the way and torque each of them to 100 foot-pounds, again in a crossing pattern.
Then you can just line up and hit your hub cap back into place. Now torque these three nuts up here to 45 foot-pounds. Pull out any clips that stayed behind in the vehicle and push them back into place in your cowl panel. Then feed the cowl panel back into place. Make sure it tucks back under, under the hood. Once you get everything lined up, just start pushing the clips back into place. Make sure that this adhesive cushion over here goes back up and over, and repeat the process on the other side.
Now replace those four clips. Just push in the lower part and then the center to lock them in. Replace the ground and tighten it back up. Make sure your weather strip is back in place, and then, for now, you can close the hood. Make sure these clips on either side of the cowl panel are back into the body of the vehicle. Push the wiper arm onto the stud. Make sure it's lined up where you want it and then replace that 15mm nut and tighten it up. Put the cover back on the end. Now just repeat the process with the other wiper arm.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
Tools used
I'm gonna remove the wheel. Use a 22-millimeter socket, and pull the wheel off. I'm just gonna use a little rust penetrant. There's a little bit of rust on the stud. Take an 18-millimeter wrench, and you can loosen up the nut. And the stud is gonna spin, so you want to use an 8-millimeter socket. Put it on the stud.
You could try to loosen this up with an impact, but the stud is just gonna spin. And take the nut off. Now you can take the stud out, just like that. You can take this nut off the same way you took the other one off, if you use a 18-millimeter wrench and a 8-millimeter socket, or you can take some locking pliers, get on the back side, and use an 18-millimeter socket. Try to get it off that way. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't.
Now take the new link, slide it back in position. Put the nut on. And for the stud on this new link, we have a, there's actually a spot where you can put a wrench, so you can use an 18-millimeter wrench, 18-millimeter socket. I'm gonna snug this up first. And I'm gonna torque this nut to 55 foot-pounds. And slide the sway bar up. Slide the link stud through this bracket on the strut. Get the nut started, then use an 18-millimeter wrench, 18-millimeter socket. Tighten this up. And torque this nut to 59 foot-pounds. And put the tire on.
Now I'm gonna torque these lug nuts to 140 foot-pounds, in a cross pattern or a star pattern, to tighten the wheel down evenly. Now go around again. Just double check.
Tools used
Now, you can take the lug nuts off. Use the 22-millimeter socket, so you can get the wheel off. Grab the wheel, slide it off. I'm gonna loosen up the jam nut. Just take a 15/16 wrench and loosen it up. That's good. I'm just gonna take a little rust penetrant, just spray down the tie rod stud. That'll make it a little easier to take that nut off. I'm just gonna take a pry bar, and just pry below the strut, and prying down on the tie rod to help the stud from spinning. And then use a 21-millimeter socket, take that nut off. Now, just take a hammer and hit on the bottom of the stud, going up. When you take this off, you're gonna want to count the threads, so, 1, 2, 3...17, 17, and just write that number down somewhere.
That's gonna make it easier for when you put it back together to get it close so that when you go to have the alignment done, it's actually a little bit closer than if you didn't count the threads. Now, take the outer tie rod end and count the threads when you go on. 1, 2...17. And I'll just move the jam nut a little closer and take the stud and line it up with the nut hole.
Take the nut, put the nut on. Now I'll take a pry bar, go under the strut, slide this down. And then I'm gonna torque this nut to 22 foot-pounds. And if you have angle meter, you're gonna want to torque this an additional 120 degrees. If you don't, just do the best you can. That's 90, then I'll go another 30 degrees. I'm just estimating; that's about right. And we can tighten up the jam nut. If you have the ability to torque this, you can torque it to 55 foot-pounds. Now, put the wheel back on.
Now I'm gonna tighten the lug nuts down, torque them to 140 foot-pounds in a cross pattern so that it tightens the wheel down evenly. Go around again. Double check.
Tools used
I'm going to remove the wheel. Use a 22-millimeter socket, and then pull the wheel off. I'm just going to use a little rust penetrant. There's a little bit of rust on the stud. Take this wire off right here. There's a little retainer there. You might need a pry tool to get that off. And then there's one on the side here. Take an 18-millimeter wrench, and you can loosen up the nut, and the stud is going to spin, so you want to use an 8-millimeter socket. Put it on the stud. You can try to loosen this up with an impact, but the stud is just going to spin. And take the nut off, then you can take the stud out, just like that. Take these two nuts off. Use a 24-millimeter socket. Now, we're going to take these bolts out. Just use a hammer and give it a tap. There we go. Do the same for the other one. There we go. Right. So that I don't put too much tension on the brake hose itself, I'm going to take this bracket off. Just use a 10-millimeter socket. Take this bolt out. And you don't want to bend this hose too much, but that'll give you a little slack. Then we can slide the knuckle out. Now, I've got to take the wiper arms off. I'm going to use a straight blade screwdriver. Just get underneath the clip right here. Take that nut off. Use a 15-millimeter socket. Take that off, and just grab the arm. Just rock it back and forth, slide it off. And you're going to do the same with the other arm.
Take this fuse box cover off. Just use a straight blade screwdriver. Just push on the locks and slide them up out of the way, and then take this ground connection off. Just use a 15-millimeter wrench, loosen it up. And there's push clips along the front of the cowl. There should be a couple more on that side. Those are missing. Just use a straight blade screwdriver or a trim tool. Get underneath the clip and just slide those out. And then you're going to grab the cowl and just slide it over the stud right here, and then just try to raise up underneath. There's push pins holding it on. You can try to get underneath there with a trim tool, but normally, you can just pull it straight up, and then you can just pull it back there, and you can just raise it up out of the way. You don't necessarily have to take it out any further than that. I'm just going to put a little prop rod here. Just use a screwdriver or a trim tool. That works. And there's three nuts on the top. Just use a 15-millimeter socket. Take those off. When you get to the last one, you're going to have to support the strut underneath. All right. Now, I'm going to support from underneath. Get the last nut off and slide it down. Take these nuts off. Just keep one in your hand, then slide it in position. Then get the nuts started and then you can get the other ones started.
Now, we're just going to leave these on like this. We'll leave those loose. It's going to be easier to install it from down below, and then we'll tighten these up last. Then I'll take the knuckle and just line it up. You're going to have to pull it up a little bit and try to line the bolt up. There you go. Get the other one in. Just give it a little tap. You don't have to hammer it in all the way. And take the nuts. Get those started, and then we can tighten these down. Then we can torque these nuts to 144 foot-pounds. All right. Now, take the sway bar link and line it up. Get the nut on, and I'll use an 18-millimeter wrench to hold the stud, 18-millimeter socket. Tighten this up. Now, I'll torque this to 59 foot-pounds.
Now, the ABS wire, slide this in position right there and right there. Now, just take this brake hose bracket. Line this back up. Put this bolt on. If you felt uncomfortable taking this line off or this bracket off, you could always take the caliper off and hang the caliper on the strap assembly, and tighten this bolt down. Put the tire on. Now, I'm going to torque these lug nuts to 140 foot-pounds in a cross pattern or a star pattern to tighten the wheel down evenly. Now, I'll go around again. Just double-check. Now, we can tighten these down. Torque these nuts to 33 foot-pounds. All right. Now, I can take this cowl, and if any of these push pins came out down below, transfer them over and slide this back in position, and just line it up. And that looks good. You can take some of these push pins and then reinstall these. It should be four of them. And take that fuse box cover, put it back on. Now, I can reinstall the ground jumpstarting terminal, get that started, and just snug it up. That's good. Now, take the wiper arms and line them up. Try to put them back where they were. If you had to, you could mark them before you took them off, and put the nuts on. While holding the arm, tighten the nut down, snug it down, then put the cover on. Do the same for the other one.
Tools used
I'm gonna take a 22-millimeter socket and remove these lug nuts on the wheel. Now, I'm gonna remove the wheel. We're gonna take this nut off first. I'm using locking pliers behind just to hold the stud from spinning.
Now, what you could do is take an 18-millimeter wrench and then a socket on the end of this, and loosen it up that way. But this is a lot easier using the 18-millimeter socket. I might have to tighten this up a little more, and take that nut off. Now, that that's separated. I also separated the other side and that makes it easier, so, it's a good idea to do them both in pairs.
And then you can slide this down, and then you can gain access to this nut. We'll do the same on this one. Use some locking pliers, hold the stud from spinning, 18-millimeter socket, it comes right off.
Take the new link and slide it up. You're going to slide the stud towards the middle of the vehicle, and put the nut on using an 18-millimeter wrench then a 18-millimeter socket. Torque this down first. Torque this nut to 55 foot-pounds.
Slide that into the bottom of the strut. Take the nut, put that on. Take an 18-millimeter wrench on the inside, 18-millimeter socket, tighten this up. And torque this to 59 foot-pounds.
All right. Now I'm gonna put the tire back on, and the put the lug nuts on. Now, you're gonna tighten the lug nuts to 140 foot-pounds in a cross pattern to tighten the wheel down evenly. I'll just go round again to double-check.
