Replaces
Frequently bought together
Part Details
Our control arms are designed to be direct replacements for the original factory parts. They are 100% brand new and require no modifications for installation. No special tools are required because all of the bushings come pre-installed.
Our steering and suspension components are pre-greased and sealed for long life and do not require the extra maintenance typically required by greaseable versions.
Item Condition:
New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Carbon black(airborne, unbound particles of respirable size), which is known to the State of California to cause cancer. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
FREE Shipping is standard on orders shipped to the lower 48 States (Contiguous United States). Standard shipping charges apply to Hawaii and Alaska.
Shipping is not available to a P.O. Box, APO/FPO/DPO addresses, US Territories, or Canada for this item.
Expedited is available on checkout to the United States, excluding Alaska, Hawaii.
Final shipping costs are available at checkout.
Created on:
Tools used
Remove the wheel, I'm gonna use a 22-millimeter socket. Take the wheel off. So that this wire doesn't break, I'm going to disconnect this wire right here, just use this pick tool. Just slide this out, right there. You can disconnect these retainers, just slide these off. That'll give me more slack. Just let that hang, that's good. I'll take a 21-millimeter wrench. There's a nut right here, put it on that nut. And then 21-millimeter socket, take this bolt and loosen it up.
Just make sure you don't get too close to the rotor because once this bolt comes out, it is going to tip forward. There's the nut, it's a nut and a washer. Then you could push on the rotor a little bit. Try to pull this bolt out and just slide that out. Before I loosen up this cam nut right here, I am going to mark it. Just take a marker that you can use. That way, at least, the alignment's closer when you're done. You're still going to need to get an alignment done anyway, but at least it'll be close. All right, that's good.
Now I'm going to use a 21-millimeter socket to take this nut off. And then on the backside of the stud, you could use a 21-millimeter on the nut on that side but sometimes it's better just to use a 10-millimeter, put it on the end of the stud, prevent it from spinning, and loosen this up. Take this nut off and take this cam washer off. Then just hold the arm and then try to pull the stud and nut the rest of the way through. If you have to, you can use an air hammer. Sometimes that's all it takes. All right, and it slides out. You can grab the arm and just slide it out. There you go.
Now take the new arm and just slide it back in position. This wire is going to go around on that side. And take this bolt and stud, slide that back in position. And take that cam washer, slide that back on, put the nut back on. And with the 10-millimeter wrench on the backside, you can snug this up. Now just make sure your line lines up where you marked it. Then you can tighten that down a little bit more. Try to put this arm in position where it would be if the vehicle is on the ground. Generally right there is good. That's good.
Then you can tighten this nut to 103 foot-pounds. Make sure you have that 10-millimeter wrench on the other side. It's good. I'm going to take this bolt, line this up here. Once you get that in a little bit, then grab this arm, push this in a little bit as you try to slide this down. You can get the bolt to come through a little bit, then you can get this lined up just like that. Maybe a little more. There you go. And then just hold this arm while you hammer the rest of the way in. There you go.
Take the washer and the nut, put it on the end of the bolt. Make sure the wires aren't in the way when you go to tighten this down. And then put the wrench on here, then snug this down. It is recommended that you replace this bolt when doing this job. I'm going to use a 21 and I'm going to torque this with the wrench over here to 74 foot-pounds. And then the second pass you're going to go 90 degrees so you can put an angle meter on here, or if you don't have one, just do the best you can. All right.
And for the ABS wire, the wheel speed sensor wire, the clip was broken on the old one. So we're just going to use a wire tie and just trim it off. And then take these other clips. I'm just going to slide onto the bottom just like that. There you go. Now put the tire back on. Now, I'll torque these lug nuts to 140 foot-pounds in a star pattern. That way it tightens the wheel down evenly. And I'll just go around again, double check.
