Chevrolet GMC Buick Isuzu Saab Front Ceramic Brake Pad & Rotor Kit with Wheel Bearings TRQ BKA52054

Okay, friends. One of the first things we need to do to start this job is to safely raise and support the vehicle. I like to raise it directly on the frame. Once you have the wheel off the ground, we're gonna remove our center cover. That exposes our 19-millimeter lug nuts. Remove them all, and then remove the wheel. The next thing I like to do is remove the caliper from the bracket directly. The reason for that is because I like to take a look at the pads when I'm taking everything apart. I'm gonna use an 18-millimeter to hold the slider from spinning, and then I'm gonna come right from the backside of the caliper, and I'm gonna remove my 13-millimeter nuts that hold the caliper to the bracket. Okay. I've got both our bolts here. Slide the caliper off. It's always a great idea to inspect the caliper directly. Look along these boots to make sure you don't see any moisture or anything like that, and you also wanna make sure that the piston itself isn't chipped or broken in any way. Let's get the pads off of here. Feels as though this rearward one's frozen in there. There we are. I usually like to turn the wheel a little bit so I can expose these 18-millimeter headed bolts. We're gonna remove both those bolts that holds the bracket to the knuckle. I'm gonna leave that in just a little bit. Remove the other one. Grab that bracket, and remove the other bolt. There it is, friends. Now it's time to remove the rotor.

Next, we're gonna use a little bit of penetrant. We're gonna come right here along where the axle nut is, and then we're gonna come along the wheel bearing where it connects onto the knuckle. We wanna try to spray down that area with some penetrant, and if you can see the bolts coming through the wheel bearing, spray those areas as well. Let's remove that axle nut. The next thing we need to do is make sure that our axle can move around inside the wheel bearing. If for some reason the axle does not slide in and out, take a punch, take a hammer, go right in this center hole, get it to break free. If that's not working, go ahead and spray inside there with some penetrant spray. The next thing we need to do is disconnect and unsecure our ABS wire so when we remove the wheel bearing, it'll be ready to come out. If you were to look at the frame, you're gonna see this area right here. It has a couple wires coming in, a couple wires going out. This area leading towards the front is actually part of the ABS wire we're gonna be removing. So we need to come right here and disconnect this. Just take my little pocket screwdriver. I'll pull it like that until I can see that white piece is pressed up against here, and then you press on this area, and you should be able to take these two apart. There we are.

Now what we need to do is use our little forky tool here or a pry bar or whatever you might have. We're gonna try to get in between this piece and the frame because there's gonna be a little push clip or piton that forces in. I'll show you what it looks like. There it is. That just forces right inside this hole, and it holds it secure. The new wheel bearing is gonna come with all new clips, so you don't have to worry about breaking them. That one out of there. Okay. A lot of times the clips that go up into the control arm, they kinda get stuck up in there. You can try to pry it out of there. More than likely it's gonna break the little piton going up in. So if you wanted to, if you were to look right along this side, you can see an area that we can press with a small pocket screwdriver, and it'll let this come down. That's the way I'm gonna remove this one. Get this one off of here. For this one, you need to squeeze these two tabs right here. Give them a little squeeze with some pliers and should pry off. There we go, friends. Now what we need to do is come from the backside of this knuckle here. If you were to look along where the axle goes through the knuckle, you're gonna see where the bolts are that hold the wheel bearing to the knuckle. We're gonna use an 18-millimeter to remove all 3. There's one of my bolts. Do the same to all.

The next thing that I like to do is use this ABS wire. We're not gonna be reusing it, so this is okay. I'm gonna take it, and I'm just gonna tie it right around the knuckle, just like this. The reason for that is because now what I need to do is start bonking on this with a hammer carefully and try to break it free from the knuckle. When it does break free, the last thing that I want is for it to come shooting off and potentially hurt me. So, this kinda acts as a safety net. Let's go ahead and start hitting this with the hammer. There we are. As you can tell, my safety net worked well. We'll just go ahead and get the backing plate off of here. There it is, friends. The next thing we need to do at this point is to clean up this area. All the areas that you notice where the wheel bearing was sitting up against the knuckle need to be nice and clean. The wheel bearing needs to be able to ground thoroughly through the knuckle. Use something like a scraper, a screwdriver if you have to. You could use a little brush. Use whatever you need to, but try to get off the majority of this rust, especially any raised areas. The next thing we would wanna do is clean up the backing plate the same way. Clean up both sides, the area that's gonna be up against here and then, of course, the area that the bearing's gonna be against. Once you've done that, go ahead and take your bolts. Make sure that they're clean.

These look like they could use a cleanup, so I'm gonna take them to the wire wheel. After I've done that, I'm gonna apply a little bit of threadlocker. So I've got these cleaned up. I've got a little bit of threadlocker on there. The next thing we're gonna do is use a little bit of copper Never-Seez, try to get around the areas where the bearing's gonna be resting in here. It's just gonna help make it come out easier next time. I also like to get the splines on the axle. Now we have our backing plate nice and cleaned up. We did both sides where the bearing's gonna ride like I said. Go ahead and take that ABS wire that comes from your wheel bearing. Slide it right down and through the center there. That's great. Now we're gonna line up the slot with where this is gonna go through, and then we're gonna put the whole unit up on to the knuckle just like this. Now something that's important to remember is that you wanna have the slot in the backing plate facing to where the caliper is. So if I was to put this in like that, it's not gonna be right. You're gonna wanna go twisting it until it lines up right like this. Let's get the ABS wire out of there. Perfect. Let's go ahead and start in those bolts. Now let's just go ahead and bottom out those bolts. Torque these to 77 foot-pounds. Now it's gonna be time to get our ABS wire back resecured.

We wanna make sure that it doesn't get damaged by hanging around and flopping and all that stuff. So, just take a look at it and take a look at all the areas that we left on here for clips. Any of those corresponding areas, we'll just take them off of the new one, okay? So I've got this clip that just comes around back here. It's gonna slide in. That's the one we got with the pliers. You remember that one. We'll bring this up through here. This one, obviously, we can take this off of here. We'll recycle that. Once up here, click it in. Same thing right here. We'll get this one off of there as well. Put this up in here. Latch it in. Make sure you give it a nice tug. All right. So now we're just gonna follow this and put it back in everywhere where it goes in. That one in there. Now we'll clip these together. Make sure you lock it in, give it a nice tug, and then secure it. Double-check all your anchor points. Make sure that there's no way that this ABS wire can come loose. The last thing you want is for it to get damaged. The next thing we're gonna do is get our axle nut back on here. I like to use a little bit of threadlocker. We'll put it on, bottom it out, and then we'll torque it to manufacturer's specifications. Now to torque this axle nut, what you're probably gonna find is that as you try to turn this to tighten it, the bearing's gonna keep spinning. To cure that, you can use a nice long pry bar. Come right in between the lug studs.

You wanna make sure it's nice and flat so you don't damage the threads. Now we're gonna torque this to 103 foot-pounds. Going with the assumption you're not replacing your brakes or your rotors, you're gonna wanna clean up the mounting area that goes up against where the bearing is. Now we're gonna go ahead and spray down this area of the hub with some copper Never-Seez. Put our rotor on, and then grab one of your lug nuts and start it in so it holds the rotor so it doesn't move around. Next, it's gonna be time to go ahead and push in the caliper pistons. What you'll notice, if you were trying to use a tool that looks like this, which is what most people have, is you would go inside like this, squeezing this piston. As you squeeze this one in, this one would start coming out. That could be an issue. If you're using this tool, the best way to do it would be to go ahead and take one of your old brake pads and then go ahead and grip right in the center and squeeze it down. For me personally, I have this tool right here. As you crank it, it's gonna push in both these pistons at the same time. You could also use this at the same time if you wanted to. Put this in. Now we're just gonna slowly push in the pistons. The next step for preparing this is we wanna add a tiny bit of lubricant along the pistons themselves and then along each of these three ears.

The reason for doing this is for vibration dampening and noise reduction. Time to get the caliper bracket on. Go ahead and take your caliper bolts and use a tiny bit of threadlocker. Let's get these started. Torque these to 118 foot-pounds. Now it's gonna be time to get the brake pads onto the vehicle. What you're gonna notice is you should have some wear indicators. They probably came in your little bag. You can go ahead and squeeze that right onto the pads, and you want them both facing just like this. When we install these, we want the brake indicators facing up. See if I can slide this in here. Should slide in nice and easy. If you have to force it in or use a hammer for any reason, you probably didn't clean up the bracket enough. These look great. Make sure they can move around freely. Go ahead and take that caliper and slide it over. Put it right down on there. Now we're gonna grab our caliper mounting bolts. We've got our caliper bolts with a teeny bit of threadlocker. Start them in, bottom them out, and then we'll torque them down. Let's torque these to 31 foot-pounds. It's always a great idea to double-check everything that you removed and replace. Just make sure everything's secure and good to go. Once you've done that, let's go ahead and get the wheel up on here.

Bring the vehicle down so the tire's just barely touching the ground so we can't spin, and then torque the wheels in a crisscross manner to 103 foot-pounds. Now it's gonna be time to get our center cover on here. If you were to turn it around, you might see something that looks a lot like a valve stem. Line it up with your valve stem and then go ahead and pop it on there. All right. Now I know you think you're done, but you still need to pump up the brake pedal, and then we're gonna go out there and double-check that brake fluid level. Right underneath the hood, you're gonna see your master cylinder. It'll tell you what type of fluid to use. You can give it a little shake and just double-check to make sure you can see it's up at that maximum line.

Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.

Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.

In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the front brakes on this 2003 GMC Envoy XL. The items you'll need for this are a new brake pad and rotor kit from 1AAuto.com; 17mm, 18mm and 19mm socket and ratchet; a piece of pipe for some extra leverage; 18mm wrench; flat blade screwdriver; torque wrench; hammer; jack and jack stands; large C-clamp; brake grease and brake cleaner.

Start off by prying off your hub cap. Then remove these lug nuts and if you don't have air powered tools, you're going to want to loosen them while the vehicle's on the ground, then raise the vehicle, and remove them the rest of the way. Once they're removed, your wheel can pull right off.

If you're looking to check the condition of your brakes, you want to run your fingernail up and down the rotor to make sure there are no deep grooves. These rotors should be turned down at least because they're pretty rough from some corrosion. Then, brake pads have a wear mark in them. You can see right here on this brake pad. If you look right down in here, you'll see right there there's a tiny little hole and that hole is basically what you can see of what's left of that wear mark, which means that these pads have a little bit of life left on them but we're going to change them out anyways to show you.

Now, you want to remove these two 17mm bolts. You can see Mike's using a 18mm wrench to hold the nut on the inside. It'll just make it easier to remove that bolt. Now, using a flat blade screwdriver, just pry out on the caliper. Then, you can just set that aside. Now, pry out your brake pads. Then, just pull off these slides.

Now, you want to remove these two 18mm bolts. We'll just fast forward as Mike does that and you can see he's using a piece of pipe for some extra leverage to help break those bolts free. Once those are removed, the bracket will pull right off and if your rotor doesn't slide right off, then you may just want to tap it with a hammer, and just keep turning it and hitting it with a hammer until it pulls free. However, there is something else you can do to break it free as well. Alright, so if you have trouble getting the rotor off, it actually has press holes. You would get a bolt that's the proper size. I believe this an M12 bolt. You use two bolts, thread them into those holes and as you tighten them up, they press against the hub and push the rotor off. You can do that or just keep going with the big hammer. I'm not worried about it because I'm replacing the rotor anyway. You can see I've put a lug nut on; this is just to keep the rotor from flying off when you're hitting it with the hammer.

On the left, are the old brake pads and rotor; on the right, are the new ones from 1A Auto. You can see they're identical and they'll fit exactly the same. Take your new rotor and you want to make sure that these holes line up in between the two holes that are on the hub and then you just slide your rotor back into place. Replace a lug nut to hold it into place. You want to check these slides on your caliper bracket and make sure that they're greased up. If they're not, just apply some brake grease to them. Then, fit the bracket into place. Then just twisting in your bolts by hand and then tighten them up. Now, torque these bolts to 110 foot-pounds.

Using a wire brush, just clean up these brake pad slides. Then just clip it back into place. Do the same thing with the other one. Now, wipe down your rotor with some brake cleaner or mineral spirits. Take your new brake pads, remove the clips from your old brake pads and just clip them into place on the new ones. Then, apply some brake grease to the tabs on either end of the brake pads. Then, just push the brake pad into place. Repeat the process with the other pad. Take your caliper and a large C-clamp and one of your old brake pads and just put the old brake pad in front of those two pistons on the caliper. Then take your large C-clamp, set it up in between the two pistons on that brake pad, and just twist the brake pad in until it pushes those two pistons all the way in. Now, push your caliper back down into place and replace those two 17mm bolts. We'll fast forward as Mike does that and tightens those up. Now, torque each of those to 40 foot-pounds.

We'll fast forward here as Mike replaces the wheel and then the lug nuts and tightens them up preliminarily, lowers the vehicle, and tightens them up the rest of the way. You want to torque each of these lug nuts to 100 foot-pounds in a crossing pattern. Obviously you'd repeat this for the other side as well. Always replace your brakes in pairs.

After you've done any work on the brakes, you want to just pump the brake pedal until it firms up. Then you want to do a stopping test from five miles per hour, then 10 miles per hour.

We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.

Okay, friends, one of the first things we need to do to start this job is to safely raise and support the vehicle. I like to raise it directly on the frame. Once you have the wheel off the ground, we're going to remove our center cover. That exposes our 19-millimeter lug nuts. Remove them all, and then remove the wheel.

I'm gonna you use an 18-millimeter to hold the slider from spinning. And then I'm gonna come right from the backside of the caliper, and I'm gonna remove my 13-millimeter nuts that hold the caliper to the bracket. Okay. We've got both our bolts here. Slide the caliper off. It's always a great idea to inspect the caliper directly. Look along these boots to make sure you don't see any moisture or anything like that. And you also want to make sure that the piston itself isn't chipped or broken in any way. Let's get the pads off of here. It feels as though this rearward one's frozen in there. There we are. I usually like to turn the wheel a little bit so I can expose these 18-millimeter headed bolts. We're going to remove both those bolts that holds the bracket to the knuckle. I'm gonna leave that in just a little bit. Remove the other one. Grab that bracket, and remove the other bolt. There it is, friends. Now, it's time to remove the rotor. Now, it's going to be time to clean up the area on the bearing that's going to mount against the rotor. If it looks like it's got raised areas, make sure you sand it down so it looks a lot more like this. Before we go ahead and put our new rotor onto the vehicle, it's important to make sure you clean down the braking surface. More than likely, it's going to have a chemical on it, and you want to make sure you get it off.

Now, we're going to go ahead and spray down this area of the hub with some copper never-seize. Put our rotor on. And then grab one of your lug nuts and start it in so it holds the rotor so it doesn't move around. The next thing we need to do is clean up and prep our caliper bracket. To do that, we're gonna take a small pocket screwdriver, and we'll get these tins right off of here. You can also do it by hand if it's easy enough. After that, go ahead and grab onto these right here. Those are your caliper sliders. If you pull it out, you're going to notice there's a rubber boot. Just carefully try to get that off of the lip on the slider, and then you should be able to pull it out. There we are. Inspect the condition of your sliders. You can wipe them down. You want to make sure they're not rusted and pitted or have any large flakes or anything that's going to prevent them from sliding freely inside of the bracket area. These need to be able to slide nice and smooth. Once we get these cleaned up, we'll move along. Now that we have the grease off of the slider, we're going to take a nice hard look at this end over here. There should be a little lip that's supposed to catch right on that boot. If you were to spin it around, you want to make sure that there isn't any raised areas or rust along there. If there is, go ahead and chisel it out of there or use a wire brush. Whatever you have to do, you want it to be a nice, smooth surface for the boot to ride. That way there, it keeps all the moisture out.

The next thing we need to do is clean up the inside area of the caliper bracket where the slider is going to ride. You can do that with something as simple as just using some parts cleaner inside there, a little rag. See if you can clean it up. Sometimes people have a bore brush. It kind of looks like this, has, like, all these little metal tines except it's a circle. You can put it down in there, and that'll clean it out very well. The problem with using a bore brush on something like this is it's probably going to mess up this boot. You could try to get the boot off of here by pulling on this and popping it out, but getting it back in once you've done that is going to become an issue. So, unless you have a brand new boot, I wouldn't go through any of that process. I'm just gonna take a tiny bit of parts cleaner, put it inside both holes. Let it sit and do its job. Once that's sat for a little while, I'm going to take a rag, and I'll just give it a nice twist, okay? That looks nice. Take it, put it inside, and then just keep twisting it around and around and around so it's going to accumulate any of the parts cleaner that's in there, and it's also going to try to get out any of the contaminants that are in there as well. As you could tell, that's pretty nasty.

I'm going to do the same thing to the other one. Now, this next part is just about as important as actually cleaning it. You need to make sure that all the parts cleaner is dried out of there before we continue on. Once that's completely dried, we're going to take some lubricant. This is just plain old moly grease. I'm going to go right along that whole shaft of the slider. And then it's also important to make sure you get up into this area right here. That's where the boot's going to ride. By putting it up in that area, it's going to help keep moisture and debris out of there and keep the sliders functioning properly for a long time. Just go ahead and slide it in there, press it until it stops. I like to twist it around and around and around a couple of times, make sure everything's situated. Do the same to the other side. Okay. Those look great. The next thing we need to do is clean up the area where those tins are going to ride. Something that's important to remember is it's not only where the tins are gonna ride, but after the tins are on, that's also where the pads are going to be. So, if you don't clean up the raised areas that you can see flaking up here, you're going to have an issue with the pads being stuck inside the bracket, and the brakes are not going to function well, and they're going to have an issue over time. So, a couple of ways to clean it up. You can use a pocket screwdriver or a scraper, clean it up like this, try to get off at least the large flakes for now. Move along to using one of these little brushes. Clean it up. Of course, make sure you get this upper area here too by the way.

Or if you have access to it, you could use one of these. Has a nice little sanding disc. And you can go ahead and sand this down, make it nice and smooth. But if you are going to use something like this, just be careful not to take away too much of the meat of the caliper bracket. It's not the point of it to take away any of the meat. We just want to get off the excess stuff that shouldn't be there. Now that we have the bracket nice and cleaned up where those tins are going to ride, let's go ahead and add a little bit of lubricant. You don't need to add very much here. We just want to add a nice little layer that's going to help prevent moisture or anything like that from getting in between. If you end up putting too much, it could eventually squeeze out and potentially get up against the rotor/in between the pads and rotor, which would be an issue. Now that we have the caliper bracket lubricated, we're going to install the tins. If you were to look at the backside of the tins, you're going to notice you have a little hooky-do here, and then you have a strange-looking one right there. The side that looks like this, that comes out a little bit further off to the side and then comes up is going to actually go facing towards the slider or towards the rear of the bracket. Go ahead and slide that on there and then press it in. It should want to stay. Do the same to the other side. Awesome.

Now, we need to make our way back over to the vehicle. And what we're going to do is we're going to start working on the actual caliper itself. This is the muscle of the brake. If you were to look right here, you're going to see this little tin. Take a quick look at your new one in comparison to your old one. You're going to see that you can put it one of two ways. We want to make sure we're facing in the right direction. Now we're just going to get this one out of here, and we'll install the new one. Slide it in. Give it a nice press. Make sure it's completely secured. If it falls out, it's not secure. Next, it's going to be time to go ahead and push in the caliper pistons. What you'll notice if you were trying to use a tool that looks like this, which is what most people have, is you would go inside like this, squeeze in this piston. As you squeeze this one in, this one would start coming out. That could be an issue. If you're using this tool, the best way to do it would be to go ahead and take one of your old brake pads and then go ahead and grip right in the center and squeeze it down. For me personally, I have this tool right here. As you crank it, it's going to push in both these pistons at the same time. You could also use this at the same time if you wanted to. Put this in. Now, we're just going to slowly push in the pistons.

The next step for preparing this is we want to add a tiny bit of lubricant along the pistons themselves and then along each of these three ears. The reason for doing this is for vibration dampening and noise reduction. I'm gonna get the caliper bracket on. Go ahead and take your caliper bolts and use a tiny bit of threadlocker. Let's get this started. Torque this to 118 foot-pounds. Now, it's going to be time to get the brake pads onto the vehicle. What you're going to notice is you should have some wear indicators. They probably came in your little bag. You can go ahead and squeeze that right onto the pads. And you want them both facing just like this. When we install these, we want the brake indicators facing up. Let's see if I can slide this in here. It should slide in nice and easy. If you have to force it in or use a hammer for any reason, you probably didn't clean up the bracket enough. These look great. Make sure they can move around freely. Go ahead and take that caliper and slide it over. Put it right down on there. Now, we're going to grab our caliper mounting bolts. I've got our caliper bolts with a teeny bit of threadlocker. Start them in, bottom them out, and then we'll torque them down. Let's torque these to 31 foot-pounds.

It's always a great idea to double-check everything that you removed and replaced. Just make sure everything's secure and good to go. Once you've done that, let's go ahead and get the wheel up on here. Bring the vehicle down so the tire's just barely touching the ground so it can't spin. And then torque the wheels in a criss-cross manner to 103 foot-pounds. Now it's going to be time to get our center cover on here. If you were to turn it around, you might see something that looks a lot like a valve stem. Line it up with your valve stem, and then go ahead and pop it on there. All right. Now, I know you think you're done, but you still need to pump up the brake pedal, and then we're gonna go out there and double-check that brake fluid level. Right underneath the hood, you're going to see your master cylinder. It'll tell you what type of fluid to use. You can give it a little shake and just double-check to make sure you can see it's up at that maximum line.