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Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to service the front brakes on this 2011 Chevy Silverado. It's the same procedure for this truck from 2007 to 2013 Chevy Silverado as well as the GMC Sierra. This is the 1500. We're going to show you on the right-hand or passenger side. The left-hand or driver side is the same, and we do always recommend that you service your brakes in pairs. You'll need new brake rotors and pads from 1AAuto.com, jack and jack stands, 18mm to 22mm sockets and ratchet, breaker bar or pipe for some extra leverage since a couple of those bolts are pretty tight, and a T30 Torx bit and driver. If you have some rust you may need a couple of M10 bolts to help you get the disc or the rotor off. You'll also need a wire brush, brake or white grease, and a large C-clamp.
Remove the center cap just by prying with a screwdriver. If you don't have the benefit of air tools, loosen the lug nuts with the vehicle on the ground, then raise and secure the vehicle and then remove the lug nuts the rest of the way. Remove the wheel and tire. They are 22mm lug nuts.
By hand or using a steering wheel, turn so you can access the back of the caliper. Now check for any abnormal wear. Make sure that the inside and outside pads are warn about the same amount. Also on the rotor, make sure there are no deep grooves or uneven wear. This can indicate other problems with your brake system.
There are two 19mm bolts that hold the caliper on: up there and there. We'll fast-forward as we use a 19mm socket and ratchet to remove those bolts. Once you have your bolts off, just put the caliper up an out of the way. Use a screwdriver and pry the brake pads out. You can see the outer one comes out pretty easily. We have a little trouble with the inner one. We actually switched to a larger screwdriver, and you can see after a little more force it comes out.
Now this brake pad sticking in there like that indicates there's a problem, and you want to do some cleanup and some lubrication to prevent this. Remove the little stainless steel slides from the caliper bracket. There are two 18mm bolts that hold the caliper bracket to the steering knuckle: there and there. You can see here, we give it a try with just the socket and ratchet, but then we use a pipe for some extra leverage and loosen up that bottom one. Then we'll loosen up the top one, remove the bolts, and remove that caliper bracket. There's a T30 Torx screw that holds the rotor to the hub, and we're just using a T30 Torx bit with the ratchet to remove that.
Then, on this truck, the rotor actually pulls off quite easily. If your rotor doesn't come off easily, make sure you douse the back side with penetrating oil as well as around the studs. Use two M10 bolts, and you can tighten them up through the threaded holes and press the rotor off. Here you see old brakes on the left and new brakes from 1A Auto on the right. They're exactly the same.
The inner pad does have a straight edge at the bottom. Put the new rotor in place and then we just use a lug nut to put it in place, kind of just holds things together while you assemble it. Use a wire brush and clean out the grooves where the brake pads go in the caliper brackets. The slide bolts should move in and out nice and easy. If they don't, you can pull them out, clean them, and grease them. Here we are reinstalling the stainless steel slides into the caliper bracket. Then we'll use a wire brush to clean those as well.
We'll continue to fast-forward as we put the caliper bracket in place and start the two bolts that hold it in place. Then tighten them up preliminarily. Use the Torx wrench to tighten those up to 100 foot-pounds. Use brake grease or white lithium grease, and then grease the ends of the pads where they'll sit in the caliper brackets. You can use mineral spirits, or brake cleaner, even gasoline, anything that evaporates quickly and clean up your brakes before putting the rest of them back together.
Put the rear pad in first. Put one side in first and then press the other side in. Make sure it's going fairly easily, and the same thing for the front pad. Now you need to reset the caliper piston. We've put the old inner brake pad back in there, and I'm just going to use a large C-clamp, and as we tighten it up you'll see the pistons go back into the caliper. Now put the caliper back in place. Sometimes those slide bolts will get stuck a little bit, so you have to push them in a little bit to get the caliper to slide down in correctly. Put the caliper in place and start the two bolts on that hold it. We're going to Torx these two bolts to 50 foot-pounds.
Fast-forward as we remove that lug nut and then put our wheel back on. Put the lug nuts back on by hand first, then tighten them up preliminarily, and with the vehicle back down on the ground, secure and tighten those lugs. Torque the lug nuts to about 110 foot-pounds using a crossing pattern. There's a groove on the wheel and there's another tongue in the cap that line it up. Put the cap back on.
Most importantly, pump your brakes up and do test stops from five and ten mph. Make sure everything is working correctly before you road test your vehicle.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
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Okay, friends, one of the first things we need to talk about is safety, hands and eyes. Let's get started by removing our wheel. The next thing we wanna do is push back our caliper a little bit. You can do that by either gently pushing it back slowly or, of course, you can open your bleeder screw. There we are. The next thing we're gonna do is remove our two caliper slider bolts. Take your caliper off and set it aside so it's putting no pressure on your flex hose. Let's remove our pads. Remove your caliper bracket bolts. Leave that one in there a couple of threads. Remove your bracket. Next, let's remove our rotor to hub mounting bolt. Hold your rotor so it can't fall off and give it a couple of loving bonks from the backside to remove it.
Next, make your way over to a nice bench where you can start disassembling your caliper bracket. If you grab onto these, you can pull out your caliper sliders. I'll set them aside on the corresponding holes. We'll move along to removing these tins. Use a nice pry bar or a screwdriver. We'll set those aside as well for recycling. Now, let's put this over a nice bucket. We're gonna use some parts cleaner inside these slider holes. Nice bore brush. Make sure you clean out the holes completely. Empty it out, let it dry. While that's drying, let's go ahead and clean up this area here where the tins are gonna go. You wanna get this edge right here, along there, and right there as well. Okay. All four corners look great, let's move along to cleaning up our sliders now. Give them a nice wipe, make sure they're not damaged in any way. If you see any corrosion or build-up, you need to, of course, clean it. And, of course, make sure you get up in this edge right here, which is where the boot is gonna be. This looks great. Do the same to the other one as well. Awesome.
Now, you're gonna wanna use some nice caliper grease, something with a nice high-temperature rating on it and we're gonna lubricate our sliders right here. I like to put on plenty of grease. That looks great. And, of course, I'm gonna get all the way up into that lip up there where the boot is gonna ride. That's gonna help keep moisture out of there. Let's go ahead and put it in. Give it a nice twist as we go. Perfect. Do the same to the other side. Okay. So, now let's continue on with that caliper grease and we're gonna go right along these areas that we just cleaned up. Let's go ahead and put on our brand new caliper tins here. Slide them in, lock them in. Perfect. Back at the vehicle, the next thing that we need to do is clean up our bearing where the mating surface is where the rotor is gonna ride. Little bit of copper never-seize. Let's go ahead and clean down that brand new brake rotor surface. It's time to install our brand new rotor. Let's go ahead and line it up on here. Take our little mounting bolt, start that in and we'll snug it up. Your caliper is a dual-piston caliper. To push in these, you're gonna need to push them both at the same time. Let's go ahead and do this slow. There it is. Now, we just wanna make sure that our bolts are nice and clean. If you have any thread locker on them, go ahead and make sure you clean it off.
Now, it's time to install our cleaned and prepped caliper bracket. When you install these bolts, I like to use a little bit of red thread locker. Start them both in, snug them up, and we'll torque them to manufacturer's specifications. Torque these to 170 foot-pounds. Now, it's gonna be time to install our pads. You're gonna notice that there's two different ones and you're also gonna notice on the thicker one that it has a squealer or wear indicator. You want that wear indicator facing down when it's installed. Perfect. Let's use a little bit of that caliper grease and go right on these caliper pistons. Put the caliper over the pads. Install your caliper slider bolts with a little bit of thread locker. Bottom them out and torque them to manufacturer's specifications as well. Torque these to 74 foot-pounds. Let's get the wheel back up on here. We're gonna snug up all the lug nuts and then we'll torque them to 140 foot-pounds. Torqued. Okay. So, the process will be the same on the other side of the vehicle. Other than that, go ahead and pump up your brake pedal and check your brake fluid.
Tools used
All right. So one of the first things you need to do is safely raise and support the vehicle. Once you've done that, you're going to remove all six of your lug nuts. Remove your wheel. Now, the next thing that we would want to do is take a look at our caliper right here. Look all around it to make sure you don't see any moisture coming out. If you see moisture coming out of it, more than likely it's got a fluid leak. Assuming it looks like it's in good condition, we're going to go ahead and push back the piston a little bit. Grab your small pry bar. Come right in between the caliper and up against the pad if you can, or even the rotor. And then we're just going to carefully slowly push this back.
Once your caliper is off, take a good look. Make sure you don't see any moisture coming around these boots right here. If you see any moisture, you have a brake leak, you need to replace your caliper. Now we can grab onto those pads. We'll take them right off of here and just take a nice look. This one has plenty of meat all the way around. It's not damaged in any way. If anything, I could use a little bit of parts cleaner, but that's about as much as I would go. Let's take a look at this one. That looks perfect as well. If they were worn at an angle or anything like that, there would be an issue that you'd need to diagnose. Let's get this bracket off of here to remove the rotor. Now, before we go ahead and get our new rotor up on, we want to make sure that we clean up the hub area of the bearing that's going to mate against the new rotor. So it's nice and clean. You don't want any raised areas. The next thing you need to do is clean up the rotor braking surface. Let's use some copper never seize right here on the hub.
Let's get the rotor back up on here. Now we're going to use one lug nut, screw it all the way on so it holds the rotor from moving around. The next thing we're going to need to do is push back the brake caliper. To do that, you can either open up this bleeder screw right here, and you take a risk, of course, breaking it either going in or out, or you can just go ahead and turn the caliper around. I like to use a pad and then you would just use something to squish this down and force those pistons back down and in. This is a tool that works great for the job. Let's put it in here. As I crank, it's going to spread and it's going to push back those pistons. I'm going to do this nice and slow. You'll notice this is pushing in both pistons at the same time. If you tried to push in one piston at a time, more than likely the other piston is going to want to come out.
So now we just need to take a peak along here and just double-check those boots. Make sure that they're not swollen or pushed out or ripped or torn in any way and there's definitely no leakage. These look great. So what I'm going to do is I'm going to continue on by using a little bit of caliper grease, and I'm going to go right along the mating surfaces, where the caliper is going to touch directly against the brake pad. All right. So we made our way over to the bench with the caliper bracket because it's time to start cleaning it up and preparing it for installation. Let's grab our small pocket screwdriver or pretty much anything you got that you can grab onto this area right there and remove the 10. Do the same to the other side. Next, we're going to move along to cleaning up this area right here, all the areas that you saw that this 10 was riding against. So if you see any rust buildup, make sure you clean it down.
You can use a nice wire brush and try to get in there. Spend some time. You could use your screwdriver, scrape it all up or, of course, you can use a nice sanding grinding wheel and clean it up good. You just want to be careful not to take off too much of the material of the actual bracket. Okay. So we cleaned up those areas great. Both sides of the caliper bracket look decent. Something that I did happen to notice that I want to mention to you is all this extra rot that's built up everywhere, there's a possibility that any of this could flake off and get into your braking systems, such as in between your pad and rotor, which could of course cause an issue. So just take a little punch or chisel or prybar or whatever you got, and just kind of try to get some of this crud off of here. So we got off the majority of the rust off this thing. Now we're going to clean out the inside there. Use one of these bore brushes.
So now that we have this as clean as we can get it, right out here and on the inside where those sliders are going to go, we're going to use some of this moly grease or caliper grease, and I'm going to go along the areas that we just finished sanding down. Now we have our 10s. You'll notice that you have a side that's a little thicker and a thinner side. If you were to look at the bracket, you can see exactly how it needs to go. The thicker side is going to be the side facing the boot. Go and slide it up against there and then lock it in. Do the same to the other side.
Making our way back over to the vehicle, the next things that we need to do is clean up slider bolts here and of course get all the thread locker off of our mounting bolts. Now that I have these cleaned up, let's continue on by installing the caliper. Let's grab our bracket and our two bolts. I like to use a little bit of thread locker on them, but we'll call it your prerogative. Go ahead and slide that in. Start in those bolts, we'll snug them up, and then we're going to torque them to 139 foot-pounds. You're going to notice that one of your pads has two of these brake wear indicators and then the other one's going to have one. The pad that has two goes on the inside.
The outer pad on there. Let's grab the caliper, slide it right down over here. Be careful for these boots. You want to make sure that they're lined up with the hole so the slider can go through. Perfect. At this point, we're going to add some lubricant to the sliders. When we're going to add it, we're going to put it along here all the way up to there, but you don't need to get it up onto the threaded area. Let's go ahead and put those in there. Bottom these out, torque them to 80 foot-pounds. The next thing that I would want to do is pump up the brake and make sure everything's functioning properly. You also pump up the brake for safety so that way there, when you get inside the vehicle, after you've done this job, you will have a brake pedal. Now that we've pumped up the brake, I just want to check that brake fluid real quick. Now let's go ahead and get this off of here and we'll get the wheel on. Now let's go ahead and torque our lug nuts to 140 foot-pounds. Center cap, go ahead and pop it on there.
Tools used
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet.
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out and next time you need parts for your vehicle think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks. In this video I'm going to show you how to do the front brakes on this 2005 Chevy Silverado. This truck is a 4x4 with the drum rear brakes, there are some differences in the brakes as far as the calipers and the rotors they use. But, generally the procedure for re-doing the brakes is the same for, pretty much any '99 to present actually to 2013 or so Silverado, Sierra, even the Cadillac Escalade, Yukon, Suburban, Yukon Excel, generally the procedure is the same for all of these trucks.
The tools may differ in size a little bit, but what I use for this truck are Jack and Jack Stands, you'll need your lug wrench or 22mm socket with a breaker bar or something else that you could get a good leverage on. 18mm and 19mm sockets with a ratchet, again, you'll need a breaker bar or pipe for some extra leverage on some of those bolts. A small wire brush to clean things up as you put them together. A large C-Clamp, a large hammer, I use the big hammer, big sledge hammer to get my rotor off. You can also use I believe it's an M-12 17mm bolts that you can thread into the rotors and kind of press them off. I just use the big hammer method. Cold chisel, I have that starred because on this vehicle a couple of my slides, my lower slides were in rough shapes so I had to kind of pound them out, you'll see what I mean and you may not have that issue on your vehicle. Then you'll need a torque wrench to get everything back together.
Start off my removing the wheel and tire. If you don't have the benefit of air tools you want to start with the vehicle on the ground, loosen take off the hubcap, the center cap, loosen lug nuts. Then raise and support the vehicle. Remove the lug nuts all the way. Remove the wheel and tire. Turn by hand or use a steering wheel to turn the brakes so you can get to them easily.
Now you're going to inspect the brakes with the wheel off and you can see my brakes are in pretty rough shape. The rotors show that there's only about 30% of the contact pad actually working, their pads are worn. We're going to remove two 19mm bolts to remove the caliper. These 19mm bolts should come off pretty easy. You see I'm just using regular hand tools and they come right off. I'll fast forward here a little bit as I just take those bolts out.
Now you can remove the caliper just buy lifting up. You may want to use a large screwdriver and pry out on the caliper a little bit that will help loosen things up and then the pads should come out fairly easily. See my back ones come out and then I struggle with the front one or the outside one, the inside one came out I struggle with the outside one. Then I look for something to pry it with and just end up using the back pad and pry that other pad right out.
You want to make sure this slides in and out really easily and that one does and this one is totally frozen off from where I can see. I think it's so bad I'm actually going to take my Twin Pack. So, I use my Impact wrench to get it moving and you can use a ratchet and socket 19mm work as well, get it turning and then you can use a hammer and some type of punch and you'll see in the next scene to get it out the rest of the way.
Just using a punch, actually it's a cold chisel to get that out of there. What I do pull it out, clean it all up, put some grease on it, push it back in and basically you go in and out with it a bunch of times, just keep cleaning it off. Use a pick or something to try and clean out inside the hole. You can get it freed up. If you're not happy with that you can also order a new set of the caliper brackets from 1A Auto as well as the slide pins.
Now there's a set of stainless steel slides and you pull those off and we're going to wire brush those and clean them up a little bit later. Now we're going to remove the caliper bracket and there's two 18mm bolts. There's one right there and one there, these will be tighter you'll need a little more leverage to get them off.
As you can see here I'm going to put the 18mm socket on there, put my ratchet on and then use a piece of pipe to basically extend the length of the ratchet give me some more leverage and just pull nice and evenly and they end up coming loose. You can use if you have a breaker bar that's good or if you have the benefit of air tools, obviously that's the way to go. But, this comes off usually with a little extra leverage. I'm just going to fast forward here as I remove them the rest of the way.
Here, I've just threaded the lug nuts on a few threads. That's just to protect the wheel studs. Make sure when you hit it with a hammer you don't damage the threads on the wheel studs. Basically, I'm showing you if you want to keep your old disc, you want to hit the front first that loosens it up and then you can hit it from the back side lighter and it comes off, as you can see it's coming off. I actually know I'm going to junk this disc because it's in pretty rough shape. Also you can see that the lug nuts being threaded on there help you as you hit it off. Make sure that the disc doesn't go flying and hurt somebody.
Here I've removed the lug nuts so I can take the old rotor off and then I've got the new rotor from 1A Auto ready to go back on. It's going to go on there just the same as the original, obviously, in much better shape. Provide much greater breaking service area than the old one did.
Here I'm just using a wire brush. I want to clean up the slots where those stainless steel slides go in as well as where the brakes shoes go in. I'm just cleaning those up get the rusty and scale out of there so everything fits together well. I'm actually going to speed it up here as I put the bracket back in place and start the bolts in. I'm just going to tighten them permanently. I'm actually going to next scene I'm going to tighten them up with a torque wrench to between 90 and 95 foot pounds.
Here are my stainless steel slides that I've cleaned up with a wire brush and sometimes the brake pads will come with new slides. Just make sure you install those correctly and they get seeded right down into the caliper bracket. New brake shoes from 1A Auto. There is a front and a rear, the rear has the larger metal backing and you want to put the squeak tab, a little tab, put that down lower and it should slide right in.
Now you want to take your old inner pad and put it against the caliper and then put your use a large C-Clamp and you're basically resetting the caliper. You can see as I tighten up the C-Clamp, the pistons in the caliper go back in and reset. I just slowly tighten up that C-Clamp and push the pistons back into the caliper.
Remember back when we checked those slides and the one was stuck. Now, here's where you can figure out how well you did as far as cleaning them out. You'll have to take the caliper, push it against the slide on the inside a little bit and then get it to come down over the brake pads and that should go right on. I'm going to fast forward here as I just put those 19mm bolts back in to hold the caliper to the caliper slides.
Now you want to torque this to between 55 and 60 foot pounds. I'm just going to fast forward and straighten out the wheels. Put the wheel and tire back on. Put the lug nuts all on, I always thread the first few turns by hand. Make sure you got the lug nut going on correctly and then just kind of tighten them preliminarily.
Here I'm torqueing the lug nuts on the wheel. Always do your brakes in pairs. I'm just going to show the passenger side, but obviously the next thing I do is the driver's side. Then after you torque the lug nuts, when you torque the lug nuts make sure that you do it in a crossing pattern. Torque one then go across the wheel to the next one. Put the cap and all the trim back on the wheel and then there's one more step. After you do brake work make sure you pump the brakes a few times, making a hard solid pedal.
We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the internet and in person.
