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TRQ brake kits are designed to restore your brake system to like-new performance. TRQ brake pads are positive molded, thermal scorched, chamfered, and utilize a multi-layer shim for enhanced performance and service life. TRQ rotors have a non-directional finish that reduces the break-in period for new rotors as well as reducing vibrations throughout the rotor’s lifecycle. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
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Premium Positive Molded Brake Pads Features and Benefits
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New
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WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out and next time you need parts for your vehicle think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks. In this video I'm going to show you how to do the front brakes on this 2005 Chevy Silverado. This truck is a 4x4 with the drum rear brakes, there are some differences in the brakes as far as the calipers and the rotors they use. But, generally the procedure for re-doing the brakes is the same for, pretty much any '99 to present actually to 2013 or so Silverado, Sierra, even the Cadillac Escalade, Yukon, Suburban, Yukon Excel, generally the procedure is the same for all of these trucks.
The tools may differ in size a little bit, but what I use for this truck are Jack and Jack Stands, you'll need your lug wrench or 22mm socket with a breaker bar or something else that you could get a good leverage on. 18mm and 19mm sockets with a ratchet, again, you'll need a breaker bar or pipe for some extra leverage on some of those bolts. A small wire brush to clean things up as you put them together. A large C-Clamp, a large hammer, I use the big hammer, big sledge hammer to get my rotor off. You can also use I believe it's an M-12 17mm bolts that you can thread into the rotors and kind of press them off. I just use the big hammer method. Cold chisel, I have that starred because on this vehicle a couple of my slides, my lower slides were in rough shapes so I had to kind of pound them out, you'll see what I mean and you may not have that issue on your vehicle. Then you'll need a torque wrench to get everything back together.
Start off my removing the wheel and tire. If you don't have the benefit of air tools you want to start with the vehicle on the ground, loosen take off the hubcap, the center cap, loosen lug nuts. Then raise and support the vehicle. Remove the lug nuts all the way. Remove the wheel and tire. Turn by hand or use a steering wheel to turn the brakes so you can get to them easily.
Now you're going to inspect the brakes with the wheel off and you can see my brakes are in pretty rough shape. The rotors show that there's only about 30% of the contact pad actually working, their pads are worn. We're going to remove two 19mm bolts to remove the caliper. These 19mm bolts should come off pretty easy. You see I'm just using regular hand tools and they come right off. I'll fast forward here a little bit as I just take those bolts out.
Now you can remove the caliper just buy lifting up. You may want to use a large screwdriver and pry out on the caliper a little bit that will help loosen things up and then the pads should come out fairly easily. See my back ones come out and then I struggle with the front one or the outside one, the inside one came out I struggle with the outside one. Then I look for something to pry it with and just end up using the back pad and pry that other pad right out.
You want to make sure this slides in and out really easily and that one does and this one is totally frozen off from where I can see. I think it's so bad I'm actually going to take my Twin Pack. So, I use my Impact wrench to get it moving and you can use a ratchet and socket 19mm work as well, get it turning and then you can use a hammer and some type of punch and you'll see in the next scene to get it out the rest of the way.
Just using a punch, actually it's a cold chisel to get that out of there. What I do pull it out, clean it all up, put some grease on it, push it back in and basically you go in and out with it a bunch of times, just keep cleaning it off. Use a pick or something to try and clean out inside the hole. You can get it freed up. If you're not happy with that you can also order a new set of the caliper brackets from 1A Auto as well as the slide pins.
Now there's a set of stainless steel slides and you pull those off and we're going to wire brush those and clean them up a little bit later. Now we're going to remove the caliper bracket and there's two 18mm bolts. There's one right there and one there, these will be tighter you'll need a little more leverage to get them off.
As you can see here I'm going to put the 18mm socket on there, put my ratchet on and then use a piece of pipe to basically extend the length of the ratchet give me some more leverage and just pull nice and evenly and they end up coming loose. You can use if you have a breaker bar that's good or if you have the benefit of air tools, obviously that's the way to go. But, this comes off usually with a little extra leverage. I'm just going to fast forward here as I remove them the rest of the way.
Here, I've just threaded the lug nuts on a few threads. That's just to protect the wheel studs. Make sure when you hit it with a hammer you don't damage the threads on the wheel studs. Basically, I'm showing you if you want to keep your old disc, you want to hit the front first that loosens it up and then you can hit it from the back side lighter and it comes off, as you can see it's coming off. I actually know I'm going to junk this disc because it's in pretty rough shape. Also you can see that the lug nuts being threaded on there help you as you hit it off. Make sure that the disc doesn't go flying and hurt somebody.
Here I've removed the lug nuts so I can take the old rotor off and then I've got the new rotor from 1A Auto ready to go back on. It's going to go on there just the same as the original, obviously, in much better shape. Provide much greater breaking service area than the old one did.
Here I'm just using a wire brush. I want to clean up the slots where those stainless steel slides go in as well as where the brakes shoes go in. I'm just cleaning those up get the rusty and scale out of there so everything fits together well. I'm actually going to speed it up here as I put the bracket back in place and start the bolts in. I'm just going to tighten them permanently. I'm actually going to next scene I'm going to tighten them up with a torque wrench to between 90 and 95 foot pounds.
Here are my stainless steel slides that I've cleaned up with a wire brush and sometimes the brake pads will come with new slides. Just make sure you install those correctly and they get seeded right down into the caliper bracket. New brake shoes from 1A Auto. There is a front and a rear, the rear has the larger metal backing and you want to put the squeak tab, a little tab, put that down lower and it should slide right in.
Now you want to take your old inner pad and put it against the caliper and then put your use a large C-Clamp and you're basically resetting the caliper. You can see as I tighten up the C-Clamp, the pistons in the caliper go back in and reset. I just slowly tighten up that C-Clamp and push the pistons back into the caliper.
Remember back when we checked those slides and the one was stuck. Now, here's where you can figure out how well you did as far as cleaning them out. You'll have to take the caliper, push it against the slide on the inside a little bit and then get it to come down over the brake pads and that should go right on. I'm going to fast forward here as I just put those 19mm bolts back in to hold the caliper to the caliper slides.
Now you want to torque this to between 55 and 60 foot pounds. I'm just going to fast forward and straighten out the wheels. Put the wheel and tire back on. Put the lug nuts all on, I always thread the first few turns by hand. Make sure you got the lug nut going on correctly and then just kind of tighten them preliminarily.
Here I'm torqueing the lug nuts on the wheel. Always do your brakes in pairs. I'm just going to show the passenger side, but obviously the next thing I do is the driver's side. Then after you torque the lug nuts, when you torque the lug nuts make sure that you do it in a crossing pattern. Torque one then go across the wheel to the next one. Put the cap and all the trim back on the wheel and then there's one more step. After you do brake work make sure you pump the brakes a few times, making a hard solid pedal.
We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the internet and in person.
Tools used
Tools used
All right. So one of the first things you need to do is safely raise and support the vehicle. Once you've done that, you're going to remove all six of your lug nuts. Remove your wheel. Now, the next thing that we would want to do is take a look at our caliper right here. Look all around it to make sure you don't see any moisture coming out. If you see moisture coming out of it, more than likely it's got a fluid leak. Assuming it looks like it's in good condition, we're going to go ahead and push back the piston a little bit. Grab your small pry bar. Come right in between the caliper and up against the pad if you can, or even the rotor. And then we're just going to carefully slowly push this back.
Once your caliper is off, take a good look. Make sure you don't see any moisture coming around these boots right here. If you see any moisture, you have a brake leak, you need to replace your caliper. Now we can grab onto those pads. We'll take them right off of here and just take a nice look. This one has plenty of meat all the way around. It's not damaged in any way. If anything, I could use a little bit of parts cleaner, but that's about as much as I would go. Let's take a look at this one. That looks perfect as well. If they were worn at an angle or anything like that, there would be an issue that you'd need to diagnose. Let's get this bracket off of here to remove the rotor. Now, before we go ahead and get our new rotor up on, we want to make sure that we clean up the hub area of the bearing that's going to mate against the new rotor. So it's nice and clean. You don't want any raised areas. The next thing you need to do is clean up the rotor braking surface. Let's use some copper never seize right here on the hub.
Let's get the rotor back up on here. Now we're going to use one lug nut, screw it all the way on so it holds the rotor from moving around. The next thing we're going to need to do is push back the brake caliper. To do that, you can either open up this bleeder screw right here, and you take a risk, of course, breaking it either going in or out, or you can just go ahead and turn the caliper around. I like to use a pad and then you would just use something to squish this down and force those pistons back down and in. This is a tool that works great for the job. Let's put it in here. As I crank, it's going to spread and it's going to push back those pistons. I'm going to do this nice and slow. You'll notice this is pushing in both pistons at the same time. If you tried to push in one piston at a time, more than likely the other piston is going to want to come out.
So now we just need to take a peak along here and just double-check those boots. Make sure that they're not swollen or pushed out or ripped or torn in any way and there's definitely no leakage. These look great. So what I'm going to do is I'm going to continue on by using a little bit of caliper grease, and I'm going to go right along the mating surfaces, where the caliper is going to touch directly against the brake pad. All right. So we made our way over to the bench with the caliper bracket because it's time to start cleaning it up and preparing it for installation. Let's grab our small pocket screwdriver or pretty much anything you got that you can grab onto this area right there and remove the 10. Do the same to the other side. Next, we're going to move along to cleaning up this area right here, all the areas that you saw that this 10 was riding against. So if you see any rust buildup, make sure you clean it down.
You can use a nice wire brush and try to get in there. Spend some time. You could use your screwdriver, scrape it all up or, of course, you can use a nice sanding grinding wheel and clean it up good. You just want to be careful not to take off too much of the material of the actual bracket. Okay. So we cleaned up those areas great. Both sides of the caliper bracket look decent. Something that I did happen to notice that I want to mention to you is all this extra rot that's built up everywhere, there's a possibility that any of this could flake off and get into your braking systems, such as in between your pad and rotor, which could of course cause an issue. So just take a little punch or chisel or prybar or whatever you got, and just kind of try to get some of this crud off of here. So we got off the majority of the rust off this thing. Now we're going to clean out the inside there. Use one of these bore brushes.
So now that we have this as clean as we can get it, right out here and on the inside where those sliders are going to go, we're going to use some of this moly grease or caliper grease, and I'm going to go along the areas that we just finished sanding down. Now we have our 10s. You'll notice that you have a side that's a little thicker and a thinner side. If you were to look at the bracket, you can see exactly how it needs to go. The thicker side is going to be the side facing the boot. Go and slide it up against there and then lock it in. Do the same to the other side.
Making our way back over to the vehicle, the next things that we need to do is clean up slider bolts here and of course get all the thread locker off of our mounting bolts. Now that I have these cleaned up, let's continue on by installing the caliper. Let's grab our bracket and our two bolts. I like to use a little bit of thread locker on them, but we'll call it your prerogative. Go ahead and slide that in. Start in those bolts, we'll snug them up, and then we're going to torque them to 139 foot-pounds. You're going to notice that one of your pads has two of these brake wear indicators and then the other one's going to have one. The pad that has two goes on the inside.
The outer pad on there. Let's grab the caliper, slide it right down over here. Be careful for these boots. You want to make sure that they're lined up with the hole so the slider can go through. Perfect. At this point, we're going to add some lubricant to the sliders. When we're going to add it, we're going to put it along here all the way up to there, but you don't need to get it up onto the threaded area. Let's go ahead and put those in there. Bottom these out, torque them to 80 foot-pounds. The next thing that I would want to do is pump up the brake and make sure everything's functioning properly. You also pump up the brake for safety so that way there, when you get inside the vehicle, after you've done this job, you will have a brake pedal. Now that we've pumped up the brake, I just want to check that brake fluid real quick. Now let's go ahead and get this off of here and we'll get the wheel on. Now let's go ahead and torque our lug nuts to 140 foot-pounds. Center cap, go ahead and pop it on there.
Tools used
