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Part Details
TRQ brake kits are designed to restore your brake system to like-new performance. TRQ brake pads are positive molded, thermal scorched, chamfered, and utilize a multi-layer shim for enhanced performance and service life. TRQ rotors have a non-directional finish that reduces the break-in period for new rotors as well as reducing vibrations throughout the rotor’s lifecycle. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Product Features
Premium Positive Molded Brake Pads Features and Benefits
Item Condition:
New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. We've been selling auto parts for over 30 years.
What's up guys? I'm Andy from 1A Auto. Today I'm going to show you how to do rear brakes on this 2016 Ram 1500. If you need these parts or other parts for your vehicle, click the link in the description and head over to 1AAuto.com.
We're going to loosen these lug nuts up. We're going to use a 7/8 socket. You can also use a 22 millimeter socket and a breaker bar. Just want to crack them free before we raise the vehicle. I'm going to raise and support the vehicle. We're using a two post lift. If you're doing this at your house, you can use a jack and jack stands.
I'll take these lug nuts off. We'll just use the socket. Take that last lug nut off. We can grab the tire, take it off. We're going to take this caliper off first. We're going to use a 10 millimeter socket and a ratchet. Take these two bolts out. Then we'll take those two out. Then I'm going to take a long straight head screwdriver, just get in here. I'm just going to pry in between the rotor and the caliper a little bit. Just to compress the piston a little bit. We can slide the caliper out. I'm going to use one of these caliper holders. We sell these at 1AAuto.com. Just slide it through here. It can hold the caliper right there. I'm going to take a straight blade screwdriver, get in between the pads, just slide these out. Take that pad off, and then take this one off. Do the same. Slide those brake pads out.
I'm going to take these two caliper bolts out. I'm going to use a 21 millimeter socket and a breaker bar. Break these free. Same with the top one. Now once I break those free, I'm going to switch to a ratchet, 21 millimeter socket and a ratchet. Loosen these up. Take those two bolts out and grab the bracket. Just slide it up.
Now when I go to take the rotor off, there is this little retainer that holds the rotor on. They just use this for the factory use when they're assembling the vehicle so the rotors don't fall off the axles. You don't have to reinstall it when you're putting the brakes back together. I'm just going to use some side cutters. Go in here, just grab this little tab, squeeze it, and then pry it out. It's going to break. Just slide it off. Throw it away.
Now to take this rotor off, it is rusted on there a little bit. I'm going to take a hammer. I'm just going to hit in these areas. Pop it off. Can rotate this a little bit. Give it a wiggle. It's still on pretty tight. Because we're replacing this rotor, I am going to hit it from the backside. There we go. Popped it loose. Just give it a wiggle, pull it off.
These are our old brakes. These our new brakes from 1AAuto.com. If you look at the pads, pads are the same shade, the ears are the same. The backing shield is the same. Material on the other side is the same. To look at the rotors, rotors are the same height, same thickness, same vented rotors. On the inside they have the drum for the parking brake assemblies. Get yours at 1AAuto.com and you'll be ready to rock and roll.
All right. Now we're going to clean up this brake caliper bracket. First I'm going to take a wire brush. Just going to clean up these pad slides. Just like that. Get some of the rust out. Take a screwdriver, get underneath here. Slide up on that, pull that out, clean up underneath. Get some more rust out and corrosion. Just like that. Can get a little bit on the back side of the pad slide, the pad clips. Take these and reinstall. Just get it lined up, push back down. We'll do the same with the other side.
Now on the brake caliber itself, these are set up a little bit different than normal. The caliper slides are attached to the caliper, so what we're going to do is we're just going to push these slides down, grab the rubber piece, push it all the way through, just like that. Take a little bit of that brake parts cleaner, spray it on there, use a rag, wipe it off, just like that. Clean that off. Take a little brake parts cleaner, spray down the whole of the caliber. Take the rag, get in there, dry it off. Clean that out.
I'm going to use some brake caliper grease. I'm actually going to slide it into the hole where the slide goes. That'll spread the grease around a little bit more. You could spread it on this as well, but just get it in there pretty good. We'll do the same for the other side. Take and install this. Sometimes it's a little tricky to get in. Just get that, push it through and make sure the rubber seal seals the same with that side. Then you can just take it and move it back and forth. Make sure it looks pretty good. We'll do the same for the other side.
Now before we put the rotor on, we're going to take a wire brush and just clean up some of the rust on this hub. I'm going to take the rotor, I'm just going to slide this on backwards first and then we're going to take some brake parts cleaner, spray it down. There is a protective coating on the rotor and you want to clean it off just to prevent the rotor from rusting. Flip it over, slide it on there, spray this side and wipe it down.
Before I push this on completely, just going to pull this off. There is this parking brake shoes right here. There's an adjuster underneath here. If you need to tighten it up, you can take a straight blade screwdriver, we can turn a little, it's a little star underneath here. You can go one way or the other if you have to tighten it or loosen it. Make a couple turns. There is a door on the back side so you can actually do this while the rotor's on. You can you take the little door out. See right here. Just grab a screwdriver, slide this rubber grommet out, just like that. Then you can get a smaller screwdriver or an actual spoon that will work for that. The spoon, what I mean by a spoon, I mean a brake adjuster spoon, not an actual spoon.
Now I can install the rotor. That feels pretty good. It's just dragging a little bit. You don't want it too tight. You can always loosen it up or tighten it up as you go. Take this little door, take this little grommet and install it. Just push it back in place. I'm going to take this caliper bracket, reinstall it. Use these bolts. There is some thread locker on these bolts. You can reapply thread locker if you'd like. Going to take my 21 millimeter socket and ratchet, tighten these bolts down.
Now I'm going to torque this with a torque wrench using a 21 millimeter socket to 132 foot pounds. I'm going to install the brake pads. I will just put a little grease, brake caliper grease on the ears. Then just a little bit on the back, just like that. Be careful not to get grease on the actual pad. Slide this into position. We'll do the same for the inside. Just like that.
I'm going to take this brake caliper hanger off. Set it aside. Take the brake caliper, flip it over, take one of the old brake pads, slide it into position there, and I'm going to use this brake caliper compressor tool. We actually sell this at 1AAuto.com. Slide this into position. You're going to have to loosen up the tool a little bit. All right, once you get that set, then I'm going to slowly compress this brake caliber, we're pushing the piston in. While we're pushing the piston in fluid's going through the hose, through the lines, back up to the master cylinder, into the reservoir. It's a good idea to check the reservoir after you're done the job and adjust the fluid accordingly.
Now we can remove the tool, the piston is all the way down. Take the caliper, make sure the the hose is not twisted. Slide this caliper back on here. For this caliper, actually goes up above here first. These slides, you may have to push these slides down a little bit. This caliper goes up like that then over. We can take these brake caliper bolts, slide those back into position, get those started and I'll take a 10 millimeter socket and a torque wrench and I'm going to torque these bolts to 24 foot pounds.
On the passenger side we had to go and install the caliper on the top. On the driver's side we want to install the caliper at the base first. This little notch out goes in first and then you slide the caliper down. If you're having trouble, that's probably why.
Take the wheel, line it up with the lug nuts. Take the lug nuts, get those started. Just take the socket, make sure these are all snug, I'm going to lower the vehicle and torque them. After we do a brake job, we want to make sure that we get back in the truck and we pump the brake pedal because there's going to be an air gap between the caliper piston and the brake pads. Just pump it slowly. Once you feel that the pedal is hard, then you're good to go.
After we're done, we want to make sure and check the brake fluid level. The level right now is at the max line. there's a max line here, min line there. You're going to want to adjust this level accordingly. If you have to add fluid, just take the cap off, add fluid. If you have to suck some out, just get it in between those two marks, preferably near the max line.
Thanks for watching. Visit us at 1AAuto.com for quality auto parts, fast and free shipping, and the best customer service in the industry.
Tools used
Okay, friends, before we get started, let's talk about some hand and eye protection. With that said, go ahead and raise and support the vehicle and then remove all five of your lug nuts and pull the wheel off.
Now that we have the wheel off, we have a clear view of our brakes and the caliper. I'm going to use a nice pry bar, I'm going to come in through the slot and I'm going to try to push back that caliper piston by prying up against the pad/rotor. That feels good. This can move around a little bit. Now, we're going to remove our two caliper slider bolts. Right here and right there. Go ahead and grab onto that caliper, give it a nice wiggle, and remove it. Now, you want to look at this caliper piston area right here and make sure you don't see any moisture. If you see moisture, it's probably brake fluid, in which case, you have to replace your caliper. I also like to give your sliders right here a little push, see if they move. These ones are very frozen, so they're going to be an issue, but we're going to deal with those anyway. Let's set this aside for now. All right. Next, let's remove our caliper bracket bolts, you have one here and one below it, using a 21-millimeter socket. There is our bracket.
The next thing we need to do is remove the rotor. If it's stuck on, just go ahead and take one of your lug nuts, start it on the stud for safety, and now we're going to continue on by bonking along the rotor to try to break it free. There we are. There it is. Now, let's continue on to cleaning this up. I like to have a nice collection bucket to collect any of my chemicals that I'm going to be using. Put it right down on the ground. We're going to try to spray behind this hub area right here because that's where your adjuster is right there. And then, of course, the pivot's going to be down here. So, spray it down. Clean up the surface where your rotor is gonna mate onto. Okay. So, now that we have this nice and cleaned up, let's continue on by using our wire brush along this area right here. You want to make sure you have all the debris out away from this area. Continuing on, at this point, you definitely want to make sure that your emergency brake's working as it should.
So, if you want it to get into the vehicle or get under the vehicle and pull on the e-brake cable, you'd want to make sure that this lower area of your shoes separates a little bit and then retracts. If for some reason when you step on the e-brake maybe it separates and then you release it it doesn't retract, that means that you have to take off your e-brake shoes and free up your e-brake pivot. If it works like it should, I just hit it with a little bit of penetrant/lubricant just to help it along down the line. And then if you were to look up along the top here, you're going to be able to see a little star wheel. That's where the adjustment is. So, I like to hit that with some penetrating as well. And then, of course, this end over here, where it's going to just kind of spin in. Let that sit and do its job and we can move along. Looking down along the top area right here, you're going to see a little rubber boot that comes through the backing plate. I like to just go ahead and push that out now, and we'll set that up here so we can use it later.
Now, we're going to use a little bit of copper never-seize, just kind of coat this hub area where the mating surfaces. Let's clean up the rotor braking surface. Don't forget about this area in here. That's where the emergency brake shoes are gonna ride. Real quick to show you how the adjuster works before we go ahead and put the rotor on there, I'm just going to take my little pry bar, come through that slot in the backing plate, and then as I pivot it, you're going to be able to see this move. By pushing down on my bar and lifting this so it's going around in this direction, that's going to be expanding the shoes. And if I go in the opposite direction, it'll contract the shoes. Let's go ahead and get this rotor on here. Now, at this point is the best time to go ahead and adjust that e-brake. When you do that, you want to make sure that you don't have the rotor sitting off-kilter or at least at an angle, and it's easiest to do it while the caliper's off as it is now. Go ahead and use your bar, come from the backside, and start adjusting that. You want to continue spinning this at the same time as you do it, and you want to just kind of listen till you hear a slight amount of drag.
The teensiest bit, that means that it's touching and that means that it's close enough. If you have a bunch of drag and/or it's too hard to be able to turn this, you know you went too far. Now that we have it properly adjusted, let's go ahead and make sure we put our boot back in. Now, we made our way over to the bench and we need to start stripping down this caliper bracket. Let's go ahead and get the pads out of there. That was frozen in pretty good. Get these tins off of here. Perfect. Now, we need to clean these down. Make sure they're perfectly clean so there's no debris or buildup on them. Okay. So this looks great. I did both sides. Let's continue on with a little bit of caliper grease. I'm going to coat all those areas that I just cleaned down. Perfect. So, now looking at your tins, you're going to notice that they're different. You might find that if you took two out of the package, they look identical. If that's the case, you need to go ahead and grab one of the other ones. Because essentially what you need to find is if you hold them both so they have the little flippy-dos coming off to the side, you're going to have one with a long area here and then the other one will have a long area on the other side.
Now, let's go ahead and install our tins. I'm just going to put it on just like this. And if you were to look at it, you can see that I have this little dimpled-out area right there facing towards the front, okay, or outward. I'm gonna do the same thing on this one. And you can see I have the dimpled area facing towards me, which would be the outward position. Okay. So, now let's make our way back over to the vehicle and we need to deal with these sliders. Like I said before, they're kind of stuck in there. If they're frozen, you might need to peel back the boot a little bit, put a little bit of penetrating in there, let it sit for a second. Otherwise, if you didn't want to go through that, give it a couple of loving bonks with your hammer. Just see if it breaks free. If it does like ours is, I'm just gonna work it back and forth a couple of times. And then I can go ahead and use a punch and continue driving it through. Do the same thing to the other one. And it's actually working really good. Let's go ahead and pull out these sliders at this point.
Now, we need to perform a quick inspection on it. You want to make sure it's not rusted or rotted in any way that's going to cause it to be stuck inside this area. You also want to double-check up inside the groove up here and one right there and just make sure it doesn't have any crud inside there as well. That's where the boot's gonna ride. It needs to make perfect contact so moisture can't get in. Now, I like to take a nice rag and I'll put it up inside the boot right here. Give the boots a couple of little squishes around there. Try to get out any grease or debris that might be still left inside. Do the same thing to the other one. Take a little bit of grease and go right inside that boot. Put as much right in there, get down into here as much as possible. That feels good. Go ahead and grab your slider. Put a nice coating on that as well. Just keep in mind that the majority of this is probably going to get pressed off of there. That's why I tried to put some grease right inside actually. I'm going to make sure I get inside the lip right here. And then once I get it down far enough, I'll make sure I get inside this lip as well. Now, let's go ahead and start this in there. There we are. And start pushing it in.
There we are. Perfect. This can move around nice and free. If you happen to find that your sliders just don't want to move inside there even though you just cleaned and lubed everything, what you'd probably want to do is take the slider back out, and then you fully remove the boot from inside the caliper. You'll notice that there's probably a rust or rot buildup inside this area. Clean that up, put your boot back in, re-lubricate everything, and then down the road you go. Now it's going to be time to clean up the threads on our mounting bolts. It's time to put on our caliper bracket. I've got my two caliper bolts with a little bit of thread locker on them. Bottom them out and torque them to 100 foot-pounds.
So, now we're just gonna push in our caliper piston so it's all the way bottomed out. Let's take a little bit of that caliper grease, just go right along the piston area. And, of course, along both these forked ends, which is where the pads are going to be touching up against. Now, it's gonna be time to install our brand new pads. That's one. Same with this one. Up on the tabs, squeeze them in. Perfect. Now it's going to be time to install our caliper. Pay attention to this area right here. That needs to kind of hook in underneath this area of the caliper bracket. So, as you come in, come at a slight angle, put it down and under there, and then rock it right in. Perfect. Start in your slider bolts. Now, let's go ahead and snug these up, and then we're going to torque them to 22 foot-pounds.
All right. Let's get the wheel on here, center cover, start on your lug nuts. We're going to bottom them all out, and then we'll torque them to 130 foot-pounds. All right. With the wheel touching the ground, now it's time to torque these. Torqued. Just keep in mind that the process for the other side would be the same as this side. Okay, friends, so now all that's left is to go ahead and pump up that brake pedal so it's nice and firm, and then go ahead and check that brake fluid. After that, take it for a road test.
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Tools used
Tools used
Tools used
Now I'm gonna remove the wheel. Take a 22-millimeter socket, remove the lug nuts. And pull the wheel off. Now, we're gonna take the brake caliper off. Use a 12-millimeter socket and take these two caliper bolts off. And grab the caliper. I'm gonna have to wiggle it back and forth a little bit and slide it out. Use a brake caliper hanger and attach it to the coil spring or somewhere that the brake hose is not being pulled on too hard. And just take a straight blade screwdriver, pry out the brake pads. I'm gonna take a 21-millimeter socket and take the caliper bracket bolts off. Pull those bolts off and slide the bracket back.
Now take a hammer and just tap on the rotor in those locations. Make sure you don't hit the studs. Now it's loose from the hub itself, but the brake, the parking brake shoes are holding me up a little bit, so I've got to loosen those up. On the backing shield, there's this little window right here, there's a rubber grommet. Just take your screwdriver, take that off. On the passenger side, this is on the bottom. On the driver's side, it's on the top. And then there's a little wheel right there that it's like a star wheel, it's the adjuster. You can take a screwdriver and just find something that fits or a brake spoon is what they call this. And then to tighten this up, you're gonna go and turn the wheel up just like this. You can grab the rotor and slide it right off.
Now you wanna clean the hub surface. Just use a wire brush or a die grinder. Just clean up some of the rust. I'm gonna take the rotor, put it on backwards first. Take some brake parts cleaner and just clean the rotor. Use a rag, wipe it off. Put the rotor around. Same on this side. And now we wanna adjust this up a little bit. Just us a little...either a screwdriver or a parking brake tool and just tighten it up. I just want it tight enough so that it just drags a little bit. That might be a little too tight. I'm just gonna loosen it. And you can always adjust it later. If it's not tight enough, tighten it up. And take this little cover. Just use a screwdriver or a pick and just insert that. That's good.
Now I'm gonna take the clips off. Take a wire brush, just clean off this area. Do the same on the other side. And take some brake caliper grease and just put it on this point and same on the other side. I'm gonna take these pad clips or pad slides, press that there. Same on this side. Now take the bracket and slide it in position over the rotor. Put the bolts back in. You can put some thread locker adhesive on these if you want to. And then torque these bolts to 132 foot-pounds.
You can put a little grease just where the pads are gonna slide on the slides. That's good. And take the pads themselves, line those up. Do the same on the inside, just like that. Now, take the brake caliper off the hanger. Before we compress the caliper, we have these slide caliper slides. You just take a screwdriver and push these through. Slide those out, clean these off with a little bit of brake parts cleaner, and wipe them down. Take a little brake caliper grease and grease them up. And if they were extremely dirty, you could take these and clean these out in here, but these weren't too bad so I'm just gonna take a little grease, slide those in there, and slide it back in. That's good. And then you can do the same for the other side. Now we wanna compress the caliper, slide the compressor tool in there, and slowly compress the caliper.
All right. Now that the piston's all the way in, now on the passenger side, you're gonna start with the caliper on the top and fold it down. And on the driver's side, it's gonna be opposite, and put the bolts back in and get those started. And then torque these bolts to 24 foot-pounds. And put the tire back up, and the lug nuts. Now, we're gonna torque the wheel, tighten this down to 130 foot-pounds in a star pattern so you tighten the wheel down evenly. Now you wanna pump the brake pedal nice and slow. There's gonna be an air gap between the brake caliper, piston, and the brake pads. And once it feels good, that's good. And you wanna double-check the brake fluid reservoir. Make sure you have plenty of brake fluid. Make sure it's up to the max line. Adjust accordingly.
