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Part Details
TRQ brake kits are designed to restore your brake system to like-new performance. TRQ brake pads are positive molded, thermal scorched, chamfered, and utilize a multi-layer shim for enhanced performance and service life. TRQ rotors have a non-directional finish that reduces the break-in period for new rotors as well as reducing vibrations throughout the rotor’s lifecycle. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Product Features
Premium Positive Molded Brake Pads Features and Benefits
Item Condition:
New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet.
Hi, I'm Mike Green. I'm one of the owners of 1A Auto. I want to help you save time and money repairing and maintaining your vehicle. I'm going to use my 20+ years' experience restoring and repairing cars and trucks like this to show you the correct way to install parts from 1AAuto.com. The right parts installed correctly, that's going to save you time and money. Thank you and enjoy the video.
In this video we're going to show you how to change the rear brakes on this 2004 Trailblazer same as most '02 to '09 GM mid-size SUV; the Trailblazer, Envoy, Bravada, Ranier, Saab 97x as well as the Isuzu Ascender. Tools you'll need: various size millimeter sockets with a ratchet, you'll want a breaker bar or a pipe for some extra leverage, two M10 x 7cm bolts, jack and jack stands, flat blade screwdriver, and a large C-Clamp, as well as a wire brush.
Rear tire, lug nuts are 19mm. If you don't have air tools you want to start with the vehicle on the ground, loosen the lug nuts, raise it, support it with jack stands, and then remove the lug nuts. I'll fast forward here as I remove the rest of the lug nuts and remove the wheel.
To check the condition of your brakes what you want to do is look right into this access hole and I'm going to turn the rotor a little bit so you can see the rotor. Right next to the rotor you can see the pad and it has a small hole there and even on the other side is a small hole. That hole is actually your wear indicator and since you can still see the hole that means that the pads actually have some more wear left probably on this vehicle another five or ten thousand miles. And then you also want to check the condition of your rotors, and you just want to run the back of your finger up and down just make sure that there's no deep grooves or anything in the rotors and even though these rotors look a little bit rusty it's just because the car hasn't been used a lot.
One thing we're going to do is take a large screwdriver and just carefully pry out on our caliper. That just gives us a little room to get it off and then the caliper is held on by two 14mm bolts, one down low and then one right up high. We'll fast forward through loosening and removing those bolts. They should come out pretty easy because you only tighten them up to about 15 to 20 foot pounds. Now the caliper comes right off, and you can use your screwdriver to pry out the pads.
Now to remove your rotors you're going to have to remove this bracket and there's two bolts; one here and one here. These bolts are 18mm. Always good if you're doing your own work to have a little piece of pipe around if you don't have a breaker bar because you're going to want to put your ratchet on here. These bolts are usually tightened to anywhere from 90 to 100 foot pounds. Just put your pipe on the wrench and then just go slow and easy apply pressure and loosen up the bolt. Now our other bolt, the sway bar is kind of in the way so what I'm going to do is take the 18mm wrench and then I'm going to hook my 17mm or just another wrench on here put them together like that. This gives me some extra leverage again. And again, pull nice and easy and slow and you'll break it free.
We'll speed it up here again as I use the wrench and the ratchet to remove those two 18mm bolts the rest of the way. That bracket comes off. Now if you're lucky pull your brake rotor right off. I'm not quite that lucky. I have two I believe these are either M10 or M12 bolts. Thread them right in. 17 mm heads. That will just help you get it out some, and that comes right off. So you might notice I've got a nice new backing plate and a new wheel stud on here. You can check out our other videos to see how I did those. The new disc from 1AAuto fits right on nicely. Now you'll want to reinstall your bracket. The bolt goes through and into the back of the axle. So, I've got my bolts preliminarily tightened. I'm going to use a torque wrench to tighten them to 90 foot pounds.
Before you go to put the brake pads on you want to make sure of a couple of things. These should slide back and forth nice and easily, nice and free. If they don't you can actually just pull them right out, clean them up and grease them and make sure that they move freely. Then these slides just kind of pull off and you want to take a wire brush and clean them out. So I've cleaned up this one and you don't have to get them perfect just get them cleaned out a little bit. Press them back into place, and now the new pads from 1AAuto, push them down in. They push into place. Same thing with the rear one here, push it down in. Push it in place.
So now if you go to put the caliper on you're going to find it doesn't fit, and that's because this piston has worked its way out as the pads wear. Just take an old pad put it right down, a nice big C-Clamp here. I'm going to use this C-Clamp to slowly push the piston back in. Make sure you work this gasket in, and now your caliper quite easily works down onto the new shoes, bolts in. Just going to fast forward as I just put those bolts in and preliminarily tighten them. You may find when you're tightening them you want an adjustable wrench or this looks like probably about a 15mm and you can just hold on to this nut right here. Mine seem to be going together pretty easily, and now we're going to torque those bolts to 20 foot pounds.
Now we are going to fast forward as we put the tire back on then start each one of the lug nuts by hand. You do want to make sure that you don't cross thread them, and then using our air wrench just preliminarily tighten the lug nuts. And now with the vehicle on the ground, torque the lug nuts to 100 foot pounds each, and please stay tuned to the very important last step which is to pump your brakes up before you try and road test your vehicle. And last but not least, you want to pump your brakes a bunch of times until you feel your pedal firm back up before you road test your vehicle and you can then just try and make sure you do a stop at five and ten miles an hour before going out on the road.
We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com-- your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Please feel free to call us toll free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the internet and in person.
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The first thing we need to do to get started on these brakes is to raise and support the vehicle and then remove all your lug nuts and then the wheel. We have a clear view of our caliper. We need to push back this piston right there. Use a nice pry bar and slowly push it back. There we are. The next thing we need to do is remove these two caliper slider mounting bolts. Remove and inspect your caliper, make sure you don't see any brake fluid. Set it aside. Now, let's go ahead and remove our pads from the brackets. Now, let's go ahead and remove our caliper bracket bolts here. Remove your bracket, set it aside. Looking at the outer portion of the rotor, we're going to remove this little plug right here. There it is. Now, let's use a little bit of penetrant and spray the areas on the rotor that connects to the hub. Let's remove this Torx-headed bolt. Start on one of your lug nuts, and then bonk on the rotor to break it free from the hub.
If you find that this doesn't want to come off, you just have to de-adjust the e-brake shoes. You want to spin the rotor so the inside of this hole lines up with your adjuster screw in there, and then turn the adjuster until it loosens up. Remove your rotor. Now, let's clean down this inner surface of the hub and the outer surface of the hub. Using a nice collection bucket, let's spray down this entire area with some parts cleaner. Here's your adjuster. Let's hit it with some penetrant as well. Now, let's put on a little bit of copper never-seize on the mating surfaces of the hub. Copper never-seize right inside that mounting hole as well. So, the next thing we need to do now is clean up our brand new rotor braking surfaces.
We'll get that outer braking surface. Turn it over. And now we're going to clean up these two surfaces. Don't forget where the e-brake shoes ride. Let's get this on the car. To put this back on the vehicle, we want to make sure we line up the hole right here on the hub with the hole on the rotor. Perfect. Start in that mounting bolt and we'll snug it up. The next thing we need to do is adjust our emergency brake shoes on the inside there. We want to do that until this can't turn anymore, and then we're going to back it off a little bit. Just find that adjuster and adjust this all the way in so they touch the rotor. Okay. So that's adjusted so it's touching now. I can't turn this at all. Let's back it off just a couple of clicks here.
Now, we can start to spin and you can hear it just barely starting to touch. You don't want any drag, but you do want to hear it just barely starting to touch, just like this. A little boot back in here. Now, let's make our way over to a bench so we can clean up our caliper bracket. One of the first things I like to do is remove my sliders. Give them a nice little twist, take the boot off of there, then hold it like this, and pull the boot completely off. Set that aside on its corresponding side there. This one as well. Perfect. Let's move along to removing our tins. Set those aside for recycling. Awesome. The next thing we like to do is clean up these areas where the tin was. You want to make sure it's nice and clean with no buildup. All four corners look great. Now, we need to clean up our caliper slider ports. A little bit of parts cleaner and a nice bore brush. There we are.
Use your brush, come along the edge where the boot's supposed to be. Make sure there's no debris along there. We got that edge clean. Let's go ahead and spray it down again. And now, we'll do the same to the other side. This looks great. Let's set it aside. Let's move along to cleaning up our sliders. That's going to be the same process for either slider. Go ahead and clean them down. Look at them. And then you want to inspect this area right here. You want to make sure that there's no crud inside there as well. Anything that gets in between there could potentially mean moisture gets inside and contaminates your slider. Okay. So, now this one looks pretty great. We'll set that aside. Now we're going to clean up the boots. You want to make sure you get off all this gunk, especially the stuff on the inside there. Pull that through. Now we're just going to give it a nice wipe.
So, now we've got our slider and our boot cleaned down. Do the same to the other side. Now let's continue on with the bracket here. We're going to take a little bit of this caliper grease and I'm going to come right along this lip right there. Do the same on this one. Just a little bit will do. Now, we'll take a little bit of grease, go right inside that caliper slider port, do the same on the other side. Moving along, we're going to grab this slider, put some lubricant on there as well. Something that's important to mention is getting up inside that lip right there. That's where the boot's gonna ride. Super important. Perfect. Go ahead and take your slider boot. Put it on just like this. Now, we're going to slide this right in. Give it a nice squeeze. And you want to make sure that the boot's sitting on the groove all the way around. That looks good. It's on the bracket. Pull it out, make sure it's on the slider as well. Work it in there nice, and do the same to the other side.
Now, let's move along to adding a little bit of grease right along these areas right here. Spread it out so it's a thin layer. Time for those new caliper tins. Go ahead and slide it in. Squeeze right in the center here. Make sure that the locking clips are up against the caliper bracket. Do the same on the other side. We can go ahead and mount our caliper bracket. Let's clean these bolt threads. With those bolts cleaned up with a little bit of new thread locker on there, let's put our bracket back in here. We'll start in the bolts, and then we'll torque them down to manufacturer specifications. Let's torque these to 129 foot-pounds. It's gonna be time to install our brand new pads. You want one with the indicator and you want that one on the inside with the indicator facing up. Let me slide that right in.
This is the hardest part getting the tin. There we are. Perfect. Let's move along to prepping our caliper itself. You want to put a tiny bit of grease around the piston and then, of course, both of these ears. Caliper on here, put it right over those pads. Take your two bolts with a tiny bit of red thread locker, start them both in, and then we'll torque these to 20 foot-pounds. Let's quickly inspect what we did. Make sure everything's nice and tight. Make sure your flex hose isn't twisted. Now, let's get the wheel on here. We'll start all the lug nuts, get it down on the ground, and torque it to 140 foot-pounds. Torqued. The next thing that you'd want to do is go ahead and pump up the brake pedal so it's nice and firm, and then come out here and check your brake fluid.
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