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Part Details
TRQ brake kits are designed to restore your brake system to like-new performance. TRQ brake pads are positive molded, thermal scorched, chamfered, and utilize a multi-layer shim for enhanced performance and service life. TRQ rotors have a non-directional finish that reduces the break-in period for new rotors as well as reducing vibrations throughout the rotor’s lifecycle. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Product Features
Premium Positive Molded Brake Pads Features and Benefits
Item Condition:
New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and the next time you need a part for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the brakes on this 2002 Chevy Suburban. The items you'll need for this include a new brake pad and rotor kit from 1AAuto.com, an 18mm and 22mm socket and ratchet, a piece of pipe for extra leverage, a T55 Torx bit, a large C-clamp, a torque wrench, a wire brush, jack and jack stands, brake cleaner, and brake grease.
You want to just loosen up these 22mm caps, and then pull the hubcap free. Then you want to loosen these lug nuts while the vehicle's on the ground, then raise the vehicle and remove them the rest of the way, unless you have air powered tools, then you can do it while it's in the air, and then just remove the wheel. You want to check for any deep groves in your rotor. You want to check in here for the life of your brake pads and over here for the life of the other one. You can see ours is actually in decent shape.
There's two T55 Torx bolts that you need to remove. We'll fast forward as we use a T55 Torx bit and a ratchet to remove those. Then, using a large C-clamp, just put it back behind the caliper here, and the other part right here on the brake pad, and just twist this in. This is going to push your caliper piston in and make it easier to pull the caliper off. Just remove the C-clamp and lift your caliper up and off and set it aside. Using a flat blade screwdriver, just pry out your brake pad. Sometimes the brake pads can be stuck in there. Use a flat blade screwdriver and a hammer to pry it free. You want to remove these two 18mm bolts on your caliper bracket.
You can see we use a piece of pipe for some extra leverage, here. We'll just fast forward as he breaks the other one free and removes both of these bolts. Now, slide the rotor off. On the left is the old rotor and brake pads, on the right are the new ones from 1A Auto. You can see they're identical and they'll fit exactly the same.
Spray your new rotor with brake cleaner and just wipe it down. Do the same thing to the back. Now, apply brake grease to the tabs on either end of your brake pads. Using your wire brush, just clean up those brake slides on your caliper bracket. Push your rotor back into place and then twist on a lug nut. This will hold the rotor in place. Turn the wheel and put the caliper bracket back in to place. Replace those two 18mm bolts. We'll fast forward as Don does this and tightens both of those up. Torque both of these to 75 foot-pounds.
Push your new brake pads into place. Use a hammer if necessary to lightly tap that into place. Using an old brake pad, just put it onto the caliper pistons and then tighten it in with your C-clamp. This will just push those pistons in the rest of the way. Grease up your caliper bolts. Out the caliper back into place and slide those slide bolts back in. We'll just fast forward as Don tightens those up. You'll want to tighten these to about 30 foot-pounds.
Now, replace your wheel and then replace those lug nuts and tighten them preliminarily, lower the vehicle, and tighten them the rest of the way. Torque the lug nuts in a crossing pattern to 100 foot-pounds. Replace the hubcap and tighten up those caps. After doing work on your brakes, you want to pump the brake pedal until it firms up and then try a stop test from five miles per hour and ten miles per hour, and you're all set.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
Tools used
I'm going to use a 22-millimeter socket, take off the lug nuts, so we can remove the wheel. And remove the wheel. I'm going to take these two caliper slide bolts out. I'm going to use an 18-millimeter socket. Get those free first, and slide those out. Now, I'll take a screwdriver, I'm just going to pry the pistons of the caliper in a little bit, just go in between the caliper and the rotor, make it easier to take the caliper off. Now you can take a brake caliper hanger and support the brake caliper itself, just hook it on the upper control arm, or fold the caliper over and just set it so that it doesn't fall. Just make sure there's no tension on the brake hose.
Now we can take the brake pads off. Just use a straight blade screwdriver. Pry them off. Now, we want to take the caliper bracket off. We're going to take these two bolts out. I'm going to use an 18-millimeter socket, loosen those up. Take those bolts out and slide the bracket off. Take the rotor off. If your rotor is stuck on there, you can take a hammer and just hit in these areas. Just be careful of not hitting the studs. Slide it off. Just take a little anti seize, and just wipe it on the hub surface. Just a nice, thin coat.
Take the new rotor. Just going to put it on backwards, first. Take some brake parts cleaner. Just clean the back side of the rotor. Use a rag, wipe it off. And flip it over, and clean the front side, and wipe it down. If you want to, you can put a lug nut on to hold the rotor on. Makes installing it a little bit easier. Keeps the rotor in place. All right. Just take the brake caliper bracket. Use a screwdriver, straight blade screwdriver. Slide these anti rattle clips off where the pad slides off. Take a wire brush, just clean off the rust on this area.
All right. Now, just take some brake caliper grease, and just put a little bit on the ears, where the pad slides are going to go. Take the new pad slides, line them up, press them on. And take a little caliper grease, just put a nice thin coat right here, and right here, and do the same on the other side. And, just slide the caliper bracket over the rotor.
Take the bolts. You can put some thread lock adhesive on them. Now we're going to torque these bolts to 129 foot-pounds. Now, I'm going to take the brake pads, put the brake pads on. Now the warning indicator for the inboard pad, the one that goes on the inside, is going to be at the bottom. There's only one. There's nothing on the top. The one that goes on the outside has both squealers or warning indicators. Slide those into position.
Now, I need to compress the pistons back into the caliper. You can use a piston compressing tool. They make different types of tools. This is a ratchet type. As I tighten this up, it's going to push the brake fluid...push the piston back into the caliper, which is going to push the brake fluid through the hoses, through the lines, and back up into the master cylinder. Just go nice and slow. You don't want to rush this. The slower the better.
All right, those pistons are compressed. Now slide the caliper over the brake pads. Now you can take the two brake caliper bolts, clean them off with some brake parts cleaner, just wipe them off. These aren't too bad. And just take some brake caliper grease, on the guide pins. Now install the caliper bolts, or guide pins, and torque those to 80 foot-pounds.
Now you can take this lug nut off and put the wheel back up. Now put the tire back on. And the lug nuts. I'm going to torque the lug nuts to 140 foot-pounds in a star pattern or in a cross pattern, so that it tightens the wheel down evenly. Just go around again, double-check.
Now after you're done, you want to make sure you pump up the brake pedal, nice and slow. There's going to be an air gap between the caliper piston and the brake pads. So just do that, until that feels pretty good. And then double-check your brake fluid level, and adjust accordingly.
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Hi, I’m Mike from 1A Auto. We’ve been selling auto parts for over 30 years!
Before we put our vehicle in the air, we're going to remove this hub cap with these plastic covers that are over the actual lug bolts. This one here is broken. See if I can get this out. That's pretty loose. It comes right out. The other ones are 22 millimeter. If they're loose enough, you can do it by hand with a socket.
If you need extra leverage, you can use a short ratchet. These ones are coming off pretty easy. These stay with the hub cap. Going to use a large breaker bar and a 22 millimeter deep socket, and break all of these free. Now that I have all of these lug nuts loose, going to raise and support our vehicle. This is a heavy truck, and make sure you use heavy duty jacks, and a jack stand, and support it safely.
We're going to use our two-post lift. Because our truck is extra long, we're going to use this floor stand jack and just support the back of it right under the trailer hitch. We don't actually have to lift up on the truck. Just bring this up till it touches the bottom. Just right there is perfect. With the vehicle in the air, I'll remove the rest of the lug nuts. They should be loose enough to just use the socket. Take one of the lug nuts. Just put it on here. This might be seized on here. Nope. Came loose pretty easily, but I put the lug nut on here, so it didn't fall on me. Now, I can take those off.
Take the whole wheel and tire off. I want to compress the pistons in the caliper before we try to remove this, so we can actually slide it apart. Going to take a flat bladed screwdriver. Going to wedge it in here. Just gently pull against this. If we want to move the whole knuckle, we can do that. Give you better access to these bolts. Just got to compress that a bit. That's nice and loose. It'll be easy to take it off now.
We'll start with the caliper slide pin bolts. There's one on the top and one on the bottom. They are 18 millimeter. Going to use a large ratchet and loosen these. Get the top one. Going to switch to a smaller ratchet and socket so I can get this out easier. Pull it right out. Put that aside. Also, going to hold on to the caliper so it doesn't fall off. Pull it right out. Going to take our caliper, slide it right off, and it will sit right here in the upper, just like that. Be careful you don't twist your rubber brake hose too much.
Take our old brake pads out. These ones are actually in really good shape, but we're going to show you how to replace these anyways. The caliper bracket bolts: there's one on the top and one on the bottom. They're 21 millimeter, going to loosen and remove those. Need a little more leverage, so I'm going to use a breaker bar. There it goes. Switch to a smaller ratchet, so I can remove these quickly. I'll put the caliper bracket aside. This rotor is nice and loose. It's going to come right off. If it wasn't, you needed to push it off, you could thread some bolts in here of the appropriate size, and turn them evenly, and you push the rotor off of the hub. This one's going to come off nice and easy for us.
Here's our original brake rotor and pads for our vehicle. Here's our brand new stuff from 1AAuto.com. As you can see, it's an exact match to the original. Same style pads. They've got backing to them. These'll fit great and work great in our vehicle. I'm going to put our rotor on backwards first. Take the brake parts cleaner, clean this surface of the oil they're shipped on, so they don't flash rust. I'm going to just wipe them down. Flip it over. I'm going to take one of the lug nuts and just thread it down so the rotor's not moving around on me, while I'm trying to install the brake caliper and bracket. Also, clean this surface of the packaging oil. Need to compress the pistons back into the caliper. Got my C-clamp ready.
I'm going to take one of the old brake pads, roll this over. Put the old brake pads in here, and just gently squeeze it together. Press the pistons. Depending on how far out these pistons were. Some brake fluid might come out of the reservoir. Take our brake pad away. We're going to clean and reuse our hardware. They're just stainless. You can spray them with some brake parts cleaner and brush them off with a brush. Do the same for the other side. Clean and inspect our caliper slide pins. Just take a rag, wipe them down. Take a little bit of brake parts cleaner on the rag to clean off some of the stuff that's stuck on there. Going to take some caliper slide grease and just apply it to these. Install our caliper bracket. Hold it in place.
Get one of the bolts caught. Doesn't matter which one you do first, top or bottom. Thread it in my hand so it goes in nice and easy, not cross threaded. Just like that. The top one, going to tighten these down. Got to get them so they're tight. Now, I'll come back and torque them. I'm going to torque these to 120 foot pounds. Take some brake parts cleaner and just spray down the surface. Take some caliper glide grease and just put it in the little ears. This is the outside one. Doesn't matter which one you start on. Put it on one side of the hardware and have to maneuver it in there. Repeat this process for the other pad. Install the inside one in the same way. Put our caliper back on, into position. Make sure to get the boots under the openings here. Going to hold it. Got this top slide bolt in position. Have to pick it up. Slide it in. Thread it in my hand. Do the same for the other one. Going to use a small ratchet to snug these up. Going to torque these to 90 foot-pounds. Turn our wheel straight. Take our lug nut off.
Reinstall the wheel. Thread all the lug nuts on by hand before lowering your vehicle back down on the ground. Snug up the lug nuts, then torque them on the ground with the vehicle's weight on them. Torque the lug nuts to 120 foot pounds in a cross pattern. Reinstall the cap. Place those over the lug nuts. Get them threaded in. That one's broken. You can use the 22 millimeter deep socket to tighten them. Now, I have to [inaudible 00:09:23] these. They're just plastic. After you've finished the brakes, be sure to gently pump the pedal to bring the piston out to meet the rotor. Just pump till the pedal gets hard. That feels good.
Thanks for watching. Visit us at 1AAuto.com for quality auto parts, fast and free shipping, and the best customer service in the industry.
