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TRQ brake kits are designed to restore your brake system to like-new performance. TRQ brake pads are positive molded, thermal scorched, chamfered, and utilize a multi-layer shim for enhanced performance and service life. TRQ rotors have a non-directional finish that reduces the break-in period for new rotors as well as reducing vibrations throughout the rotor’s lifecycle. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
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Premium Positive Molded Brake Pads Features and Benefits
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Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
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This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the front brakes on this 2005 Ford F150. We show you on the passenger's side but the driver's side is the same procedure. The items that you'll need for this are new brake pad and rotor kit from 1AAuto.com; a 13, 18 and 21mm socket and ratchet with a piece of pipe for extra leverage; flat blade screwdriver; pliers; jack and jack stands; large C-clamp; wire brush; brake grease; and a torque wrench.
Pry off the hub cap. Then, using your 21mm socket and ratchet loosen up each of the lug nuts. Now, raise the vehicle and remove the lug nuts the rest of the way and remove your wheel.
Turn the wheel so you can access the brakes better. Inspect your brakes. These brakes really actually look good. Take the back of your fingernail and run it up and down. You're feeling for any large grooves. Even though it looks like there's a groove there, there's really not anything there. There's going to be light grooves but you don't want anything large. Do the same thing on the back side. Then you can see the pads. See the pad right there. There's plenty of life left on this outer pad. The inner pad you can see through here and there's actually a little slot there. That's actually a wear mark, so there's actually good life left on these brakes but we're going to take them apart and put them back together just to show you.
To make it easier to get the caliper off, just take a large screwdriver and put it into the brake disc and pry out. You don't have to move it far, just enough to help you get things apart. Then, we're going to remove the two 13mm bolts: here and one up here. Push in the slides on the bracket and then pull the caliper up and off. Now, pry out your brake pads.
Now, remove these two 18mm bolts on the back of your caliper bracket. We'll just fast forward as Mike removes those. If your vehicle has a little rust and the rotor isn't coming off, put a lug nut on and use a hammer to hit the back of it and then remove the lug nut and remove the rotor.
On the left, are the old brake pads and rotor. On the right, are the new ones from 1A Auto. You can see they're identical and they'll fit exactly the same.
Put the rotor into place and then, replace a lug nut to just hold in place while you put the caliper bracket back on. Take an old brake pad and put into your caliper. Then, take a large C-clamp and you just want to twist the C-clamp and it'll push those pistons on your caliper back in. These should be nice and smooth. They are a little bit catchy so I'm going to take them out, clean them off and regrease them. Apply the brake grease. Push the slides back into your caliper bracket. Now, pull off your brake pad slides and, using a wire brush, just clean the area where the slides were. Now put the brake caliper bracket back into place and replace the two 18mm bolts that hold it there. We'll fast forward as he tightens those up. Then you want to torque both of those to 95 foot-pounds.
Push your new brake pad slides into place. All right I always find it's easier to adjust these a little bit. These ears here push and keep tension on the pads that way, but usually they just need to be bent in that way a little bit. Then it's always good to just take a screwdriver and bend these ears down some and then these ones up. Put some grease on the ends where they contact the slides. Now there's a small tab that comes down on these slides. Just bend that back up. Reinstall the inner pad, then you can use these clips and these are optional but these clips hold the pads out from the rotor while you're driving. You need to set the tabs in the slides to hold the brake pads in place while these clips are on.
Put your caliper back into place. Then, replace those two 13mm bolts and tighten them up. Now torque both of these to 25 foot-pounds.
Remove the lug nut and then put your wheel back into place. Then replace each of the lug nuts and tighten them up preliminarily and then lower the vehicle and tighten them the rest of the way. Torque each of the lug nuts to 110 foot-pounds in a crossing pattern. Replace your hub cap.
After doing any work on the brakes, you just want to pump the brake pedal until it firms up and then do a stopping test from 5 miles per hour and then 10 miles per hour.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
Tools used
Okay friends, one of the first things you need to do is safely raise and support your vehicle so your wheels is off the ground. Once you've done that, continue on by using a small pry bar or even a screwdriver. We're gonna find the area on this little plate that we can remove it. You can see there's a little cutout and that's all you do. Use your 21-millimeter socket and remove all six lug nuts.
Remove your wheel. If your brake caliper looks like this, obviously, you're gonna wanna clean it down before you proceed. If you were to look on the inside area where the pads/the bracket is right there, you're gonna be able to see the bolts for the slider coming through. I like to try to spray that down on both of them, just kind of as a little helped me out in the long run type of deal. And I'll get this side right there using a 10-millimeter. Let's see if we can get these to break free. There's one. I'm gonna leave it in there just like that. Start the other one the same way. Let's get these mounting bolts right out of here.
Now, we're gonna be replacing this caliper, but if you're not replacing the caliper, you don't necessarily need to remove it from the vehicle. Moving along, you can use your small pry bar. If you were to come right along your caliper and the bracket, you could try to pry a little bit. But what you're gonna see is on the outer pad, it has a little piton that's supposed to hold it from coming off. First, I'm gonna push right on this area. That's a little clip that holds the pad from moving. Then I'll use my pry bar to try to pry this away from the vehicle. Awesome. Once you have your caliper completely drained and as much of the brake fluid off your hands as possible so you don't contaminate your pads, we're gonna take our pry bar right here. And I'm just gonna try to go right in between this area here and here.
And you can see that there's a little piton and that should go through that hole for the pad. Once you get it so it's pulled out of the hole, you should be able to lift out on the pad. There's the piton, there's the hole. Do the same on the other side, and then slide the pad out. We'll do the same for this one. You just kind of grab it, wiggle it. And it should slide right out. These little pitons fit right inside that hole on the piston. Set that aside. With the new caliper, what I like to do is I always try to peel this boot back and push on the slider so that I can get to this portion right here.
We want to make sure that this is well lubricated. The reason for that is because, well, lubrication needs to be in there. Otherwise, moisture can get in, and then it's gonna seize this up and then your caliper won't function properly. We'll get both of these up and ready. Now, we're just gonna take some nice caliper grease here. And we're just going to lubricate the slider a little bit. You don't have to put very much on this area because as you push it in, you're gonna notice that it kind of just pushes it away. But while I'm doing that, I'm also gonna come on the inside of this slider boot. Go like that. And on the inside here, I like to put quite a bit. Make sure it's nice and lubricated right down inside there.
Take your slider, wiggle it, push it on in there. It's gonna start pushing through, just take your finger, go along the lip like that, and then make sure the boot's completely situated. That looks great. I'm gonna get the rest of the lubricant that wasn't used all off of there, and why not just put it on this one? Let me slide that in just a teeny bit. Lubricate the inside of this boot as well, especially up along this area on the inside. That's gonna be one of the main areas to make sure you have lubricant. Go ahead and slide that in all the way up, bring it back and forth. That's gonna work in the grease. That's awesome. Well, now we can't stop just there. We're gonna continue on with that lubricant and we're gonna go right along the piston here.
The reason why we're going along the piston and these ears right along here is to help with vibration dampening and noise reduction. Those look great. At this point, the caliper is pretty much prepped. I just like to kind of clean up whatever mess I might have on there. Make it neat and tidy. So, now that we have the caliber cleaned and prepped, we're gonna continue on by cleaning and prepping this area where the caliper needs to mount to. If you were to look along this area, you're gonna see that there's a metal tin. We're going to have to replace this, or at least clean it up.
If you take a pry bar and a hammer, usually you can get them to break free, just pry it right off of there. If you look inside here, a lot of times you're gonna see rust and build up. If you see rust and build up in here, more than likely, you're also gonna have it on this. So, of course, you're gonna need to clean this area up. We'll do the same to both. Looking all along here, I can see a whole bunch of raised areas. This is a lot of rot build-up. Like I said, that's gonna cause an issue with braking so we need to make sure we get it off there.
If for some reason you have a hard time getting this off and you don't think that you can get it because your hammers just keeps bonking up against the rotor, it shouldn't be too much of an issue, you could just remove the rotor. And now you have a nice, clear area to be able to do anything you need. Sometimes trying to clean up this area with the hammer and the little chisel, you're gonna get off the majority of it, but it's not gonna be nice and smooth and clean. It needs to be. You can get yourself one of these tools with the little sand dIsk and try to clean it up as much as possible, or even just use nice sanding block.
So, we've got this area nice and cleaned up on both of them. That's great. Now, assuming you took your rotor off, if you were to look behind it, you're probably gonna see a whole big mess at this point. There's probably going to be a lot of rust and everything inside this area. You wanna make sure you get out as much of that as possible, because if any of it falls out and just kind of comes inside the rotor, you're obviously gonna hear a brake noise. While we're in here cleaning this up, I always like to spray down this area right here. That's the area where your e-brake is gonna pivot from the backside and it should spread the e-brake shoes. If it doesn't pivot here, obviously you're gonna have an issue.
Continuing on, it's time to clean up the hub area of the axle, where the rotor's gonna ride. Looking at the hub area of your axle, you can see where it's going to go into the differential. Make sure you don't see any fluid coming out of here. If you do, your differential seal's leaking right there. Once you have this hub area cleaned up as much as possible, I always like to use a little bit of copper never-seize. Now, using a little bit of the caliper grease, we're gonna coat the area where those tins are gonna ride. I always like to put this on there. It's gonna help with rust and everything. You don't want any more rust building up under there.
And, of course, the inner edges there. Now we're gonna put on our tins. You'll notice that they're both the same. You look at the backside, you've got the slot where this is gonna go. Go ahead and slide it on over that. If for some reason it just doesn't wanna fit on there, you can use a small hammer and just help it along. Do the same to the other one.
Before you go ahead and put your brand new rotor on the vehicle, you always wanna make sure you clean it down first. It's gonna come with a nice coating on it that's gonna help prevent rust or anything else. So, a little bit of parts cleaner, a nice clean rag, clean down those braking surfaces. You're gonna notice on the front side, you have a braking surface. On the rear side, you're gonna have your braking surface here, but you also need to pay attention to this area along there, which is where the e-brake is gonna be. Clean down all that area.
That's perfect. Let's get it on the truck. Before we go ahead and get the rotor on there, you wamma inspect your e-brake adjuster. Make sure it's nice and clean and spray it down with some penetrant so you can adjust it. Next, we're gonna grab our rotor, put it on there. Test the e-brake to make sure that the e-brake shoes hold up against the rotor. Now taking your nice rotor, let's go ahead and get it up on here. Should just slide right on. There we are. Give it a little spin, make sure it's not dragging on those e-brake shoes.
You also wanna test your e-brake real quick just to make sure that it is actually gonna grab the way that it should. If it doesn't, you need to adjust it a little bit. Looking at our old pads compared to our new pad, what you're probably gonna notice inside your kit is that it has a pad that looks like this with a little piton. One's gonna be on this side and the other one will be on the other side. Just compare it to your original pads that way there you know which side you're dealing with. Now that we've figured that out, let's get the caliper off of here. We'll set it right up top there where we can easily get to it.
You're gonna start by installing your inner pad. Take the inner pad with the three prongs and go ahead and put it right inside that caliper piston. Should slide right in. There we are. As you start sliding this in, you wanna pay attention to those ears right here and then, of course, the pitons. Those pitons need to line up with the holes and the ears will hold it against. There we are. Double-check to make sure it's seated completely. If it looks like it's kind of off at an angle, you probably just don't have your piton inside the hole there. This looks great.
Now we're gonna continue on by installing the caliper, starting with the bottom area first because if you look at the outer pad, you'll see that it has the double ear. Slide that right over both sides of the bracket area there, and then be careful for your slider. Slider area right here needs to be pushed so it's all the way facing towards the inside of the vehicle as much as possible. Slide it right down on and over, and then give it a nice loving bonk. And it should pretty much lock in. Now we're gonna put in our slider bolts. Now that we have both of our slider bolts, I'll call it your prerogative if you wanna add a little bit of thread locker. Once you've done whatever you needed to do, go ahead and slide them both in and then start them both in by hand. That's super important. Once they're both started, go ahead and bottom them out and then we'll torque them to manufacturer specifications.
Let's talk these caliper slider bolts to 22 foot pounds. Now, it's time to get our wheel back up on here. We're gonna start on all of our lug nuts. We'll bottom them out and then we'll torque them to 150 foot pounds. Let's get these torqued to 150 foot pounds. Now that we have them all torque, it's important to make sure you get your cover back on there. There you are. Okay, take it for a road test.
Tools used
Okay, friends, to get started on this job, the first thing that we need to talk about safety. You want hand protection and eye protection at all times. With that said, safely raise and support your vehicle so you have your front wheel off the ground. We're gonna remove this center cover, and then we're gonna remove the lug nuts as well.
Get your wheel off here. Okay. Now that the wheel's off, we have a nice clear view of our inner tie rod end. We need to loosen this jam nut right here. I like to use a nice big pair of pliers. Give that a little turn, grab it. There we are. Make sure it's broken free. Now we're gonna remove our outer tie rod end nut. To remove your outer tie rod end, it's best to hit right along the knuckle. If for some reason that isn't working and you don't have a threaded area along the top of your tie rod, you can carefully try to bonk along on the top as well.
So now that we can make this spin around, this is gonna be much easier to be able to get access to this area. One of the first things I like to do is get the ABS wire off of here. I wanna make sure that it's disattached from the flex hose so that when we hang the caliper, we're definitely not gonna put any tugs on it.
Next, we're gonna remove these two bolts right here and take the caliper off of the bracket. Leave that in a little bit. Set those aside. Next, what we need to do is take a pry bar like this, and we're gonna come right in between this area. We wanna get between the caliber and the rotor, and just try to pry it. We wanna do it slowly and we're gonna try to push back the pistons. The reason for that is because the pad on the inside has a couple of little divots that are gonna go into the slots on the pistons.
I'm gonna turn this a little bit. Okay, just a teeny bit. Now I can grab this. I can pull it right off. It's always a great idea to inspect your caliper. Look for any leakage. If you see any fluid coming out from around these seals, more than likely the caliper is no good. Just set this up here for now. We don't want to put any pressure on this flex hose. You wanna make sure it's safe as can be.
Now we're gonna remove these clips from the pads themselves. They come right out at this point. Let's go ahead and get the pads out. Set those aside. Next, I like to push the caliper pistons back. If you look at the caliper, you're gonna notice there's two pistons. Well, that's really great. The only problem with it though is if you try to push back one piston at a time, it's gonna push out the other. With that said, I like to use a pad. Just use one of your old ones, of course, not a new one. And then, of course, your caliper depression tool, whatever you might happen to have this one works great. And now, I'm gonna carefully push in both those pistons at the same time nice and slow. That feels great.
If for some reason those pistons didn't want to push in, you know, you have an issue with the caliper as well. Set this aside so it puts no pressure on your flex hose. Next, we're gonna remove our two caliper bracket mounting bolts. Put in a couple of threads. Now that we've got the bracket off of there, let's get this cotter pin out of the way, and we'll get this little cover as well. Let's remove our spindle nut. Just take your nut, put it back on there just a couple of threads. At this point, we're gonna take our hammer, and we're gonna come from the backside and just try to break this free from the spindle. Make sure your nut's on there to keep you safe.
The rotor is gonna be a little heavy. There it is. Now that that rotor is out of the way, we're gonna inspect the backing plate. You wanna make sure it's in good condition. If yours is in condition like ours, obviously, you might wanna do something about that. I'm just gonna kind of push this so it's gonna be safely and secured, at least, for the purpose of this video, and I'm gonna move along.
Next, what I wanna do is clean up this area right along here. That's the area that the bearing is gonna be going around. If you look at it, and you see that it has a lot of rust or rot or buildup of any sort, you need to make sure you clean that down. I could use something as simple as sandpaper. Now, we need to clean up our braking surface on our rotors. Use a little bit of parts cleaner and a nice clean rag, and wipe it down. Do the same to both sides, of course. And then we'll get ready for an install.
Get our rotor up on here. That's completely in as far as it's gonna go. I'm gonna hold on to it because I don't want it to slide off. Okay, now we're just gonna go ahead and put the nut on there. If you're reusing your old nut, make sure you use some thread locker or, of course, replace the nut. Now, we're gonna torque our spindle nut to 296 foot-pounds. We made our way over to the bench with our caliper bracket. The reason for that is because we need to clean it up and dress it up so it'll be ready for our new brakes. Grab yourself a small pry bar or even a small screwdriver and remove your tins.
Next, what we need is a rag. And we're gonna grab right onto this area right here which is considered your slider, and you're gonna pull it right out. What you'll notice as you start to pull is that the boot wants to come with it. If you go right along this lip right here, it'll pull away, and then you can slide out the slider. Do the same to both. As you pull them out, make sure you have them on the same side that you remove them from. The reason for that is because if you were to clean them up, you're gonna see that one of them has this little rubber boot right here. This is great for vibration dampening and noise reduction, overall, and it's very important that it's on the same side of the caliper bracket that you removed it from.
When you clean up your caliper slider, make sure you get all up inside the lip right here. That's super important because that's where the boots gonna ride. If it's rotted, or rusted, or has any reason that moisture can make its way inside, there's a possibility that you could freeze up your slider inside the tube right here, and then your brakes won't function as they should.
Now that I have both my sliders clean, the next thing I wanna do is carefully remove my boot. If you were to take your small pocket screwdriver and come right along the edge of the metal and the rubber, you should be able to kind of weasel it in there. Once you do, the boot should come popping right out.
At this point, you wanna clean and inspect your boot. Take your rag, roll it around on it, get it nice and clean. If you see any rips, tears, or even if it seems like it's super stiff and it might break, you need to replace it. This one looks pretty great actually. I'll check the same on the other one. And if they're both good, we'll reuse them. Now that we have all that nice and cleaned up, it's time to continue cleaning up the bracket itself. As you can tell, there's nothing on here that we need to worry about damaging so we're doing all right. Inside this area right here is where the sliders need to be, they're gonna go in and out. It needs to be well lubricated. It also needs to be in good condition. So, you wanna make sure you clean that out, inspect it, and then, of course, re-lubricate it when you put in your new slider.
Once you've got it sprayed and cleaned out, just take a peek inside there, and check it out. This one looks great. We'll do the same to the other side, and we'll continue. Now that we have both of our slider ports cleaned up, we wanna clean up the area where those tins were. Remember when you're cleaning this, you wanna clean this area, this area right up here, and then, of course, the edge there, and the edge there. That's gonna be super important on all four corners because that's where the tin is gonna be, and then, of course, the pad.
Now if you don't have one of these tools, you can also use a nice wire brush, and do pretty much the same thing. It might just take a little bit longer. So all four of these corners look great at this point. We cleaned out the inside of those ports. Let's move along. We're gonna use some grease. This is just plain old caliper grease. It's nothing special. I'm just gonna put a little dab here, here, there, and there. With a glove finger or, of course, with the same brush, go ahead and spread it around, and make sure you coat all the areas that you cleaned off, only because this is gonna help keep moisture away and, of course, help with vibration dampening as well.
Now that we have the areas nice and lubed, we're gonna go ahead and install our tins. If you were to look at this area of the tin right there, it kind of pops out a little bit. That's gonna actually press into this area. So, as I bring it, I'm gonna go over these areas here, press this, and then I'm gonna bring this up and in, and make sure it's up against the bracket. That's what holds it in. Same to the other one. That's great. Take a little bit of your lubricant, and go right along this hole right here, and then, of course, the other one.
And now we're gonna do is we're gonna put in our boots. You might need the use of your flathead screwdriver, but more than likely, you won't. Just kind of start one end like that, and then you should be able to push it in with your finger. Give it a nice twist to make sure that the grease has made its way all the way around the inside of that boot. That's gonna keep the moisture out, of course. Looks great. Let's continue on with some more grease.
Now I'm gonna lubricate my slider. Not only do you wanna do the shaft area of the slider, but you wanna make sure you get up into this area right here. That's the area where the boot is gonna ride. That's gonna help keep moisture out as well. That looks pretty great. Slide it on in there, and give it a nice twist. Make sure there's grease everywhere in there. Do the same to the other one.
Let's make our way back over the vehicle, and get our bracket on there. We've got our bolts, and I like to use a little bit of thread locker. I'm just gonna put them right on there. Next, we're gonna snug them up, and then we'll torque them to manufacturer's specifications. Let's torque these to 148 foot-pounds.
Next, we need to prep our caliper. I'm gonna use a little bit more of this caliper grease. I'm gonna go right along that piston right there, this one right here, and then on the other side of the caliper, each one of these three ears. Let's get ready to install our pads. Let's start with the inboard one, same for the outboard. If you find that you have to use a hammer or anything like that to put these in, obviously, you probably didn't clean up the bracket enough. Your pads need to be able to slide around like this.
You're gonna notice that your kit came with these right here. These are to help separate the pad when you release the brake pedal. It's gonna help diminish overheating of the brakes. Put one in the top just like this, facing towards the center, and then, of course, one on the bottom doing the same.
Now let's grab our caliper. We're gonna put it right over this. Just push your pads together, should be able to slide this in. There we are. Take your two caliper bolts, a tiny bit of thread locker, start them in, snug them up, and then we'll torque them down. Torque these to 47 foot-pounds. Let's get this back on here. Now we're gonna put on the lock for the spindle nut. Go ahead and put that over. You wanna try to line it up so the slots that are on it, line up with the hole in the axle. Take a nice new cotter pin. It's a great idea to use a new one, of course. Slide it through and then, of course, peen over the ends so there's no way this nut can loosen up.
Now it's time to get our outer tie rod end into the knuckle. See if I can just turn it a little bit, slide it in here. There we are. Take our nut. If it has a lock, make sure the lock is facing up, of course. Now, we're gonna snug it down, and then we're gonna torque it to 111 foot-pounds.
Now it's time to get our wheel back up on here. We'll start on all of our lug nuts, bottom them out, and then we're gonna torque them to 150 foot-pounds. Next, you need to get your vehicle so the tires just barely on the ground so it can't spin. We're gonna torque the lug nuts like I said to 150 foot-pounds in a star pattern. Once you've torqued it, make sure you put back on your center cover, of course. Let's pump up the brake. You always want to make sure you top off your brake fluid anytime you're done.
Okay, friends, anytime you do any type of front-end work on your vehicle, it's always super important to make sure you get your vehicle down to a reputable alignment shop. They're gonna take care of you, and make sure you're going straight on down the road. Be safe out there.
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the rear brakes on this 2005 Ford F150. We show you on the passenger's side but the driver's side is the same procedure. The items you'll need for this is a new brake pads and rotor kit from 1AAuto.com, a 10 and 21mm socket and ratchet, a hammer, flat blade screwdriver, large C-clamp, wire brush, torque wrench, brake grease and jack and jack stands.
Pry off the hub cap and then remove these 21mm lug nuts and you just want to loosen them each up while the vehicle's still on the ground. Then you want to jack the vehicle up and support it and then remove the lug nuts the rest of the way. Then your wheel will pull free.
With your wheel off, you can do a quick inspection. You just want to feel with the back of your fingernails the rotor and you're just feeling for any deep grooves. You're going to have slight grooves. You can see the brake pads. Actually you can see them better right through here. There's the brake pad and then the rotor and the brake pad. You can see, actually, the rear brakes on this look fairly new but we're going to replace them anyways just to show you.
We'll remove these two 10mm bolts. A good idea, just to help you get it apart, take a large screwdriver or pry bar and you can just pry against the rotor and just do it slowly and easily. If you get a good enough grip, you can actually push the piston all the way back in, which is what you want to do. Then you want to pull the top up first and then pull that right off. Now the rotor will pull right off.
To remove your shoes, you want to remove the outer one first. Pry it with a screwdriver and just pull the shoe this way a little bit, pry out, and the inner one just pulls right out. These are the surfaces that your brake pads slide on and what can happen is, as these trucks age, this cast iron bracket, caliper bracket . water will get in between the bracket and slide and it will start rusting and that will cause these slides to actually expand a little bit and they'll seize your pads into the one spot and your brakes really won't work. First just clean the slide itself off with a wire brush and then we want to remove the slide. Just pry out these end tabs a little bit and now we want to wire brush the caliper bracket itself, as well.
I'm seeing just a little bit of scale here so I'm just going to take a chisel and if yours is in good shape, you don't have to worry about this but I'm just going to scrape it down some. Then there's two little indents here, the indents on the slide go to the outside, just put it in place. Then we're just going to put some brake grease on the slides. We've repeated the entire process for the slide up above it and then we're just going to apply some brake grease to that as well.
On the right, are the old brake pads and rotor. On the left, are the new ones from 1A Auto. You can see they're identical and they'll fit exactly the same.You want to push the piston back in. I was able to do that with a screwdriver at an earlier step but if you wanted to make sure, you could use a large C-clamp and take the C-clamp and press it back in. You can also just put your old brake pad in there for something for the C-clamp to be able to push on.
I'm putting my old brakes back on because as you saw they're in good shape and when you put the rotor on, make sure it goes on. You want a little bit of contact from the emergency brake shoes. You can see there's a lot of play so we're going to adjust the emergency brake shoes. On this side, we're going to go down and it's exposing more threads so that means it's pushing the emergency brake shoes out. The rotor still has quite a bit of play, so we'll continue to adjust it.
For the inner pad, again I'm using my original ones because they're in good shape. It goes into the caliper and then the outer one pushes in. Here you want to make sure these are nice and free, push them that way so it will go on. You might have to pull them out a little bit and they go right in. We'll just fast forward as Mike replaces those two 10mm bolts and tightens them up. Now torque both of those to 17 foot-pounds.
We'll fast forward as Mike replaces the wheel and then replaces those lug nuts and tightens them preliminarily. Then lower the vehicle and torque each of the lug nuts in a crossing pattern to 120 foot-pounds. Then just replace that hub cap.
After doing any work on the brakes, you just want to pump the brake pad until it firms up and then doing a stopping test from 5 miles per hour, then 10 miles per hour.
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