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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and the next time you need a part for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the brake pads on this 2002 Chevy Suburban. The items you'll need for this include new brake pads from 1AAuto.com, a 22mm socket and ratchet with a piece of pipe for extra leverage, a T55 Torx bit, a large C-clamp, a torque wrench, jack and jack stands, and brake grease.
You want to just loosen up these 22mm caps, and then pull the hubcap free. Then you want to loosen these lug nuts while the vehicle's on the ground, then raise the vehicle and remove them the rest of the way, unless you have air powered tools, then you can do it while it's in the air, and then just remove the wheel. Check your rotors. If there's any deep grooves or rust you'll want to replace the rotors as well. You can also check your pad life. You can see ours are actually in good shape, but we're going to show you how to replace them anyways.
There's two T55 Torx bolts that you need to remove. We'll fast forward as we use a T55 Torx bit and a ratchet to remove those. Then, using a large C-clamp, just put it back behind the caliper here, and the other part right here on the brake pad, and just twist this in. This is going to push your caliper piston in and make it easier to pull the caliper off. Just remove the C-clamp and lift your caliper up and off and set it aside. Using a flat blade screwdriver, just pry out your brake pad. Sometimes the brake pads can be stuck in there. Use a flat blade screwdriver and a hammer to pry it free. Apply brake grease to the tabs on either side of your brake pads.
Push your new brake pads into place and use a hammer if necessary to lightly tap that into place. Using an old brake pad, just put it onto the caliper pistons and then tighten it in with your C-clamp, and this will just push those pistons in the rest of the way. Grease up your caliper bolts, put the caliper back into place, and slide those slide bolts back in. We'll just fast forward as Don tightens those up. You want to tighten these to about 30 foot-pounds. Now, replace your wheel and then replace those lug nuts and tighten them preliminarily. Lower the vehicle and tighten them the rest of the way. Now, torque the lug nuts in a crossing pattern to 100 foot-pounds. Replace the hub cap and tighten up those caps. After doing work on your brakes, you'll want to pump the brake pedal until it firms up and then try a stop test from five miles per hour and ten miles per hour, then you're all set.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and the next time you need a part for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the brakes on this 2002 Chevy Suburban. The items you'll need for this include a new brake pad and rotor kit from 1AAuto.com, an 18mm and 22mm socket and ratchet, a piece of pipe for extra leverage, a T55 Torx bit, a large C-clamp, a torque wrench, a wire brush, jack and jack stands, brake cleaner, and brake grease.
You want to just loosen up these 22mm caps, and then pull the hubcap free. Then you want to loosen these lug nuts while the vehicle's on the ground, then raise the vehicle and remove them the rest of the way, unless you have air powered tools, then you can do it while it's in the air, and then just remove the wheel. You want to check for any deep groves in your rotor. You want to check in here for the life of your brake pads and over here for the life of the other one. You can see ours is actually in decent shape.
There's two T55 Torx bolts that you need to remove. We'll fast forward as we use a T55 Torx bit and a ratchet to remove those. Then, using a large C-clamp, just put it back behind the caliper here, and the other part right here on the brake pad, and just twist this in. This is going to push your caliper piston in and make it easier to pull the caliper off. Just remove the C-clamp and lift your caliper up and off and set it aside. Using a flat blade screwdriver, just pry out your brake pad. Sometimes the brake pads can be stuck in there. Use a flat blade screwdriver and a hammer to pry it free. You want to remove these two 18mm bolts on your caliper bracket.
You can see we use a piece of pipe for some extra leverage, here. We'll just fast forward as he breaks the other one free and removes both of these bolts. Now, slide the rotor off. On the left is the old rotor and brake pads, on the right are the new ones from 1A Auto. You can see they're identical and they'll fit exactly the same.
Spray your new rotor with brake cleaner and just wipe it down. Do the same thing to the back. Now, apply brake grease to the tabs on either end of your brake pads. Using your wire brush, just clean up those brake slides on your caliper bracket. Push your rotor back into place and then twist on a lug nut. This will hold the rotor in place. Turn the wheel and put the caliper bracket back in to place. Replace those two 18mm bolts. We'll fast forward as Don does this and tightens both of those up. Torque both of these to 75 foot-pounds.
Push your new brake pads into place. Use a hammer if necessary to lightly tap that into place. Using an old brake pad, just put it onto the caliper pistons and then tighten it in with your C-clamp. This will just push those pistons in the rest of the way. Grease up your caliper bolts. Out the caliper back into place and slide those slide bolts back in. We'll just fast forward as Don tightens those up. You'll want to tighten these to about 30 foot-pounds.
Now, replace your wheel and then replace those lug nuts and tighten them preliminarily, lower the vehicle, and tighten them the rest of the way. Torque the lug nuts in a crossing pattern to 100 foot-pounds. Replace the hubcap and tighten up those caps. After doing work on your brakes, you want to pump the brake pedal until it firms up and then try a stop test from five miles per hour and ten miles per hour, and you're all set.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
Tools used
I'm going to use a 22-millimeter socket, take off the lug nuts, so we can remove the wheel. And remove the wheel. I'm going to take these two caliper slide bolts out. I'm going to use an 18-millimeter socket. Get those free first, and slide those out. Now, I'll take a screwdriver, I'm just going to pry the pistons of the caliper in a little bit, just go in between the caliper and the rotor, make it easier to take the caliper off. Now you can take a brake caliper hanger and support the brake caliper itself, just hook it on the upper control arm, or fold the caliper over and just set it so that it doesn't fall. Just make sure there's no tension on the brake hose.
Now we can take the brake pads off. Just use a straight blade screwdriver. Pry them off. Now, we want to take the caliper bracket off. We're going to take these two bolts out. I'm going to use an 18-millimeter socket, loosen those up. Take those bolts out and slide the bracket off. Take the rotor off. If your rotor is stuck on there, you can take a hammer and just hit in these areas. Just be careful of not hitting the studs. Slide it off. Just take a little anti seize, and just wipe it on the hub surface. Just a nice, thin coat.
Take the new rotor. Just going to put it on backwards, first. Take some brake parts cleaner. Just clean the back side of the rotor. Use a rag, wipe it off. And flip it over, and clean the front side, and wipe it down. If you want to, you can put a lug nut on to hold the rotor on. Makes installing it a little bit easier. Keeps the rotor in place. All right. Just take the brake caliper bracket. Use a screwdriver, straight blade screwdriver. Slide these anti rattle clips off where the pad slides off. Take a wire brush, just clean off the rust on this area.
All right. Now, just take some brake caliper grease, and just put a little bit on the ears, where the pad slides are going to go. Take the new pad slides, line them up, press them on. And take a little caliper grease, just put a nice thin coat right here, and right here, and do the same on the other side. And, just slide the caliper bracket over the rotor.
Take the bolts. You can put some thread lock adhesive on them. Now we're going to torque these bolts to 129 foot-pounds. Now, I'm going to take the brake pads, put the brake pads on. Now the warning indicator for the inboard pad, the one that goes on the inside, is going to be at the bottom. There's only one. There's nothing on the top. The one that goes on the outside has both squealers or warning indicators. Slide those into position.
Now, I need to compress the pistons back into the caliper. You can use a piston compressing tool. They make different types of tools. This is a ratchet type. As I tighten this up, it's going to push the brake fluid...push the piston back into the caliper, which is going to push the brake fluid through the hoses, through the lines, and back up into the master cylinder. Just go nice and slow. You don't want to rush this. The slower the better.
All right, those pistons are compressed. Now slide the caliper over the brake pads. Now you can take the two brake caliper bolts, clean them off with some brake parts cleaner, just wipe them off. These aren't too bad. And just take some brake caliper grease, on the guide pins. Now install the caliper bolts, or guide pins, and torque those to 80 foot-pounds.
Now you can take this lug nut off and put the wheel back up. Now put the tire back on. And the lug nuts. I'm going to torque the lug nuts to 140 foot-pounds in a star pattern or in a cross pattern, so that it tightens the wheel down evenly. Just go around again, double-check.
Now after you're done, you want to make sure you pump up the brake pedal, nice and slow. There's going to be an air gap between the caliper piston and the brake pads. So just do that, until that feels pretty good. And then double-check your brake fluid level, and adjust accordingly.
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the rear brake pads on this 2002 Chevy Suburban. We show you on the passenger side, but the driver's side is the same procedure. The items you'll need are new brake pads from 1AAuto.com, 12 and 22 mm socket and ratchet, flat blade screwdriver, large C-clamp, torque wrench, and jack and jack stands.
Start off by loosening up these lug nut covers and we'll fast forward as Don does this. Once those are all loosened up, you can pull the hubcap free. Now, you want to loosen the lug nuts preliminarily, raise the vehicle, and remove them the rest of the way, unless you have air powered tools. Then, you can do it while it's up in the air.
To inspect your brakes, run your finger along the rotor, check for any deep grooves. You can look in here for the life of this brake pad, and then, through here for the life of the other brake pad.
Now, remove these two 12mm bolts and we'll fast forward as Don does that. Use a large C-clamp. You put it on this end on the back of the caliper and on this brake pad and just twist it in. This is going to push the caliper piston in and make it easier to pull the caliper up and off. Remove the large C-clamp, pull the caliper free, and set it aside. Pry out the brake pads.
Take your new brake pads and apply brake grease to the tabs on either end of the brake pads. You want to reset the pistons in your caliper so put an old brake pad in there and just twist the C-clamp and it'll push those pistons back in. Push your new brake pads into place, and then, put your caliper back down into place and replace those two 12 mm bolts. We'll fast forward as Don does this and tightens them up. You want to tighten these to about 30 foot-pounds.
Put your wheel back into place and then replace your lug nuts and tighten them preliminarily. We'll fast forward as Don does this. Lower the vehicle and torque the lug nuts to 100 foot-pounds in a crossing pattern. Replace that hubcap and tighten up each of your lug nut covers. Before taking the vehicle out on the road you want to pump the brake pedal until it firms up and then do a stopping test from 5 miles per hour and then 10 miles per hour and you're all set.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
Tools used
We're gonna start by taking the wheel off. I'm gonna use a 22-millimeter socket. Take off all the lug nuts. And take the wheel off. Now, we can take these caliper bolts out. I'm gonna use a 12-millimeter socket. Loosen those up. And if the caliper slide is spinning, you can use a 17-millimeter wrench to hold it while you take the bolt out. Now, you can grab the caliper. You might want to rock it back and forth a little bit. That'll compress the piston a little, make it easier to slide off.
And then, you can use a brake caliper hanger, and just hang it from the upper control arm, or you can hang it from the coil spring just like that. Just make sure there's not any tension on the brake hose itself. Now, take the brake pads off, just slide them out of the way. Now, we're gonna take the bracket off. You need to take these two bolts out, use an 18-millimeter socket. Loosen these up. And then, grab the bracket, and just slide it off. Now, you're gonna take the rotor off, just grab it and slide it.
If it's stuck on there, you can take a hammer and just hit in these locations. It's stuck on the parking brake a little bit. Just try to wiggle it. You can just take a prybar and try, and pry in here a little bit. It should get this off. All right. I'm just gonna take two screwdrivers, just try to wiggle this back and forth. There we go, slides right off. Before you put the new rotor on, just take a wire brush, and just clean up some of the rust right here. You could also use a die grinder, and just don't sand down too much. Just get some of the rust off.
Now, you're gonna install this rotor backwards first. Take a little brake parts cleaner, just clean off the backside, and flip it around, and slide it over the parking brake. If you have to adjust the parking brake, you can adjust it right there. And then, spray this side with brake parts cleaner, and wipe it down with a rag. Now, you're gonna take a wire brush, and just clean up this bracket. If you're gonna reuse these clips, just clean these up. If not, take them off.
Just clean up some of this rust right here. Do the same with the other side. And then, just take some brake caliper grease, and just put a nice, thin coat right here. Same on the other side. And then, take these pad slides, and do the same. Put on a nice, thin coat. And then, take these pad slides out. The slide pins. Take a little break parts cleaner and a rag. Just wipe these off. You can clean this out with brake parts cleaner as well. Wipe that down.
Take a little brake caliper grease, and just reinstall it, and do the same with the other side. Now, take the caliper bracket, and line it back up. Brake caliper bolts, get those started. Now, I'm gonna torque these bolts to 122-foot-pounds. Now, I'm gonna put the brake pads on. Now, the warning indicators are gonna go to the top. So, on the inboard pad goes at the top and same with the outboard pad. Just slide them into position. That's good.
Now, I'm gonna take the brake caliper off the hook. Now, I'm just gonna take the old brake pads and a caliper compressor tool and just compress the pistons. You need to push them back into the caliper, and just slowly compress it. You don't want to do it too fast. It's just gonna push the brake fluid through the hoses, through the lines, back up to the master cylinder, and into the reservoir.
All right. That's good. Fully compressed, and just slide it over the brake pads. Put the caliper bolts in. And take a 17-millimeter wrench, and torque this bolt to 30-foot-pounds. Do the same on the top. All right. Put the wheel on, and put the lug nuts on. Now, I'm gonna torque these lug nuts to 140-foot-pounds in a cross pattern so that it tightens the wheels down evenly, and just go around and double-check.
Tools used
Just take this center cap off. Use a straight-blade screwdriver. Get behind here. Use a 22-millimeter socket to take the lug nuts off. Take the wheel off.
We're gonna take these two caliper bolts out. We're gonna use a T55 socket. I'm just going to tap them in, because this is pretty rusty. There we go. Cracked it free. I'll use the gun. That one came right out.
Slide those up. Take a straight-blade screwdriver. Just pry out on the caliper a little bit. Compress the piston and slide the caliper off. We have to flip it over. Good idea to attach it somehow, so it doesn't fall. But if you can get it to sit right there, that's good. And just take the old brake pads off.
Use an 18-millimeter socket. Take these two caliper bracket bolts off. These are normally on there pretty tight. There we go.
All right. Those are broken free. Take those out.
Grab the brackets. Slide it right off.
Grab the rotor. Slide it off. If it doesn't come off that easy, take a hammer and just hit in these areas. Just try not to hit the studs.
Now we're gonna clean up this bracket. Just take a straight-blade pocket screwdriver. Get these clips off. And there's a lot of rust underneath here. Take a wire brush, clean this up. If you have to you can use a file. Just be careful. You don't want to take too much material off.
And take some brake caliper lubricant, and just wipe that down. Brake caliper grease, right there and right there. And take the new caliper slides or anti-rattle clips. Put those on there.
Line it up. Find the right one. Put it on there. Then put a little more brake caliper grease on here. Just a thin coat, just where the pads are gonna make contact.
We ended up replacing the hub, but if you have your old hub on here and it's rusty, take a wire brush. Just clean these areas. Make sure it's smooth.
Take a little bit of anti-seize. Just go around the hub, mostly around the center here, and spread it out, a nice, thin coat.
I'm just gonna take the rotor, put it on backwards. I'm just gonna clean this surface. Use a little brake parts cleaner. I'm gonna wipe it with a rag. There's just that protective coating on there to prevent it from rusting. And flip it over. Do the same on this side and wipe it down.
Now take the old caliper bolts. I'll just put a little thread-locking compound on there, and line the caliper bracket up. It goes this way. And put the bolts in. Get those lined up.
And use a torque wrench and torque these to 129 foot-pounds. Good.
Now install the new brake pads. Now, the warning indicator on the inside is gonna go at the bottom, in just one, not one at the top. And just slide that into position, and the outside one will have both.
That's good. Now I'm gonna compress the caliper. Use a caliper compressing tool. If you have to, use the old brake pad to help you. And just go slow. You don't want to push these in too fast. This is gonna push the brake fluid through the hoses, through the lines, back up into the master cylinder.
All right, those are compressed. Take the tool out. Just make sure the seals look good, the dust seals. And those look good. Now put the caliper back over the pads. Line it into the bracket.
Take the brake caliper pins. Just use a little brake parts cleaner on them. Wipe them off. Get some brake caliper grease. Grease them up and slide the pins back in position. Get them started and tighten them down.
Now I'm gonna torque these bolts to...these caliper guide pins to 80 foot-pounds. There we go.
Then put the wheel back up. Put the lug nuts on.
Now I'm gonna torque these lug nuts to 140 foot-pounds in a star pattern to tighten the wheel down evenly. And just go around again, double check.
Install the center cap. Now just pump the brake pedal. There's gonna be an air gap between the caliper piston and the brake pads. Pump that up. Just go slow, and once it feels good, then you're all set.
And double check your brake fluid level in the brake reservoir. The max line is right there. If you give it a little shake, our fluid is right about there.
