2005 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 with RPO Code JC4 (Vacuum Power, 4 Wheel Disc, 7200lb) with RPO Code JH2 (Hydraulic Power, 4 Wheel Disc, 7200lb) without 4 Wheel Steering Rear Driver Side Brake Caliper with Mounting Bracket Raybestos Element 3 FRC11169N

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Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.

In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the rear brakes on this 2002 Chevy Suburban. We show you on the passenger side, but the driver's side is the same procedure. The items you'll need are new brake pad and rotor kit from 1AAuto.com; 12, 18, and 22 mm socket and ratchet with a piece of pipe for extra leverage; flat blade screwdriver; large C-clamp; torque wrench; brake grease; brake cleaner; and jack and jack stands. Start off by loosening up these lug nut covers and we'll fast forward as Don does this. Once those are all loosened up, you can pull the hubcap free. You want to loosen the lug nuts preliminarily, raise the vehicle and remove them the rest of the way, unless you have air powered tools. Then, you can do it while it's up in the air.

To inspect your brakes, run your finger along the rotor, check for any deep grooves. You can look in here for the life of this brake pad and then through here for the life of the other brake pad. Remove these two 12mm bolts and we'll fast forward as Don does that. Use a large C-clamp. You put it on this end on the back of the caliper and on this brake pad and twist it in. This is going to push the caliper piston in and make it easier to pull the caliper up and off. Remove the large C-clamp, pull the caliper free, and set it aside. Pry up the brake pads.

Remove these two 18mm bolts and use a piece of pipe to help break it free. We'll fast forward as Don removes those two bolts. Pull your caliper bracket off. Pull the rotor off.

On the right is the old rotor and brake pads. On the left are the new ones from 1A Auto. You can see they're identical and they're going to fit exactly the same. Spray your rotor with some brake cleaner and wipe it down. Re-grease your caliper slides and apply brake grease to the tabs on either side of your brake pads.

Slide your new rotor into place and then twist on a lug nut to hold the rotor in place while you put the caliper bracket back on. Put your caliper bracket back into place and replace those two 18mm bolts and we'll fast forward as Don tightens those up. You want to torque these to about 85 foot-pounds.

To reset your caliper pistons, you want to put a brake pad in front of the pistons and twist the large C-clamp until it pushes the pistons in. Push your brake pads back into place and put your caliper back down into place and replace those two 12mm bolts. We'll fast forward as Don does this and tightens them up. You want to tighten these to about 30 foot-pounds.
Put your wheel back into place, and then, replace your lug nuts and tighten them preliminarily and we'll fast forward as Don does this. Lower the vehicle, and torque the lug nuts to 100 foot-pounds in a crossing pattern. Then, replace that hubcap and tighten up each of your lug nut covers.

Before taking the vehicle out on the road, you want to pump the brake pedal until it firms up, and then do a stopping test from five miles per hour, and then ten miles per hour and you're all set.

We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.

I'm gonna use a 22-millimeter socket, remove the lug nuts, take the wheel off. Now remove the wheel. Now use a 12-millimeter socket, take this caliper bolt off. I will do the same on the top one. And if you have to, you can use a wrench on the stud if the caliper slide is spinning. Then you can hold that. Now grab the caliper, just twist it a little bit, that'll compress the piston and slide it up. And you can use a brake caliper hanger. And just find a spot to hang it from, would be somewhere in the frame over here. Just as long as the brake hose doesn't have any tension on. It's good right there. Now I will take the brake pads off. And use an 18-millimeter socket and take these two bolts out. And take those bolts out and slide the bracket right off.

Take the new bracket. And we'll just take a little caliper lube and just grease the caliper, and put these caliper slides on, or anti-rattle clips. And just take and give it a nice thin coat of more caliper grease. Now take the bracket and slide it over the rotor. And take the bolts, you can use some thread-lock adhesive on them, and get those started. And now I'm gonna torque these bolts to 129 foot-pounds. And take the brake pads and slide those on. Brake-warning indicator goes to the top. And same on the inside, goes on the top. And take the caliper and just slide it in position. Take the bolts, get those started. Then I'm gonna use a 16-millimeter wrench, put that on the caliper slide and then torque this bolt to 31 foot-pounds. And do the same for the top.

Now just take the old caliper and we're gonna take this bolt off, take the banjo bolt off. We wanna do this pretty quickly. It's a good idea to double-check your reservoir for the brake fluid and make sure it's topped off so you don't lose all the brake fluid. You can see one of the seals, or washers, stayed right there. And we wanna take the other washer off the other seal. Put the seal on, and slide it through the hose. And the new seal on that side as well. And get this started. I will tighten this down. And take a torque wrench and I'm gonna torque this to 30 foot-pounds.

Take a 10-millimeter wrench and open up the bleeder screw. Double-check your master reservoir. And we're just gonna let this gravity bleed out. Once you get a nice steady stream, you wanna make sure this bleed screw is closed. And then have a partner get in the vehicle and pump the brake pedal. Go ahead, pump the brake pedal. There's a little bit of an air-gap in between the caliper and the brake pads. And once the pedal starts getting hard, then you know that's filled up. So about five times. Pump it up and then hold it. And then while they're holding it, you're gonna open up this bleed screw, a little bit of air came out, and then close it. All right, pump it again and hold it.

While they're holding it, open it again. See if there's any air, maybe a little bit of air came out that time. And then one more time. Pump it up and hold it. And open it up one more time. And no air came out that time so we're good. Just snug that up. All right, give it up a pump. Feels good. All right, put the cap back on. You can clean that up with some brake parts cleaner and then double-check your fluid level and adjust accordingly.

And it's a good idea to go for a road test and after you're done, come back and take a look and make sure you don't have any leaks. And reinstall the tire. Put the lug nuts on. Now I'm gonna torque these to 140 foot-pounds in a star pattern or a cross pattern to tighten the wheel down evenly. And I'll just go around again to double-check. Then check the brake fluid level after you're done and adjust accordingly. You wanna make sure you always maintain fluid in the reservoir while you're doing the procedure.

Okay, friends. One of the first things we have to do is safely raise and support the vehicle. Once you have your wheels off the ground in the rear, we're going to go ahead and remove all six of these lug nuts. Remove your wheel. Now that the wheel's off, we have a clear view of the brake hose right here. If you're doing just one caliper, we're going to take these hose pinchers right here and pinch this hose. If you're doing both calipers, you can go ahead and pinch that center flex hose. I'll go right here. I'm gonna come up from the top because it's a little easier to get to. Snug that up.

Now we're gonna remove this banjo bolt right here. Before you do that, try to clean off any of this dirt that might be around. I'm gonna use my 12-millimeter to remove that. Just be careful because brake fluid is going to come out. When brake fluid comes out, you need to have a nice collection bucket, and you need to make sure you have hand protection and eye protection. Here we go. Looks like there's minimal brake fluid but there is some. We've got our little banjo bolt on our gasket here. We'll set that aside. We are not going to reuse it. That's not reusable.

Go ahead and get your banjo bolt right out of the line. Take a peek at that banjo bolt. Make sure that it has the other gasket on there. Remove that gasket, recycle that as well. Take a look at your flex hose here. You want to make sure that you have a good connection point on there. Any area that the gasket's gonna ride needs to be free and clear. If it's dirty, clean it up. Look at the other side and do the same. The next thing I like to do is just kind of plug this hole up with something. If you have something plastic, or even if you want to try to put the banjo bolt in there, just to kind of prevent any brake fluid from shooting out at you, especially in your face. Cover that up.

Now we're going to remove these bolts right here. These are the mounting bolts and they're 18-millimeter. They'll hold the bracket to the actual differential itself. There's one. Hold that caliper. Remove your caliper. One of the first things that you need to do is double-check to make sure that your caliper matches up with the original. You want to double-check on the backside that the bleeder screw is on the corresponding side of the caliper. And aside from that, it should pretty much be the same, whether it's from one side to the other. Once you're sure you have the right caliper, we'll continue on by removing these two bolts that hold the caliper to the bracket.

Take the caliper off the bracket, set it aside. With the caliper bracket over on the bench, I just want to show you areas that you're going to want to clean up. You want to clean up this area right along here and right there, the same right here. If you were to take your tin and you were to put it over it, any area that touches...If you were to take your tin and put it right over the bracket, you'll be able to see exactly where you need to clean up. Any areas that the bracket is going to touch up against this tin need to be nice and smooth, and they also need to be lubricated.

Just take your little brush, clean up in between there, clean up all this right here. If there's any really tough areas that don't seem like they want to break free but they're raised up, use a nice screwdriver or whatever you might have and just kind of kit up any of that crud or anything like that that might be on there. Now, once you've cleaned all the mounting areas for where your tins are going to go for your brake pads, you're going to come right here to the sliders. Grab that, pull it right out. Take your rag, clean it up. Inspect the slider, make sure it's in good condition.

If it looks like it's pitted or it's going to cause restriction going in and out, you either need to clean it up better with a wire wheel or replace it. If you were to look inside here, you're going to need that to be nice and clean as well. You can do something as simple as maybe using a bore brush, something like that inside there. Of course, you don't want to damage the boot though. So you'd want to be very careful. Get out as much of the crud as you can inside there, make it as clean as possible. Maybe even take a nice rag, twist it, put it right inside there, and get out as much as possible.

I'm going to use some nice silicone here. This is Moly grease. It's great for calipers. You want to make sure you get right up along this area right there. If you can see where that lip is, where my finger is, get some grease all up on there. It's going to be super important because that's going to help keep moisture out right along this seal. Slide that in there. Give it a nice twist. Move along. Those sliders are in there. Let's go ahead and go right along the bracket. Let's go right in this area.

As you can see, I have it along all ridges going along. Now I would put my tin on here. If I can get this lined up, slide it down. Do the same to the other side. Now let's grab the other portion of our caliber. We're also going to grab this tin right here. When you go to install this tin, you want to make sure you have it in this direction. You want to have the smaller end, or the area with the smaller prongs, facing away from the piston, not facing towards the piston. If you put this in backwards, you could damage the boot.

We're going to take it just like this coming down at this angle, slide it all the way back up against there. Make sure it's not hitting anywhere, and then push this down. Should want to lock in. Make sure that it can not pop up and out of there. You can just lift up on it. Take a look from the backside. You can see that I have my ears holding it in and then this one right there is also holding it in. You can give it a nice push and it's definitely not going to fall out. Let's grab our old caliper and we're just gonna get the pads out of there. We'll bring those over to the vehicle.

Let's grab our caliper bracket and our caliper bracket bolts. If you have any leftover thread locker on them, make sure you clean it off. And if you want to put on some new, it's probably a great idea Put this right over. Start in both of your bolts before you tighten either of them down. Now let's bottom them out and then we'll torque them to manufacturer specifications. Let's go ahead and torque these to 148 foot-pounds. Now it's time to install our brake pads. When you go to install it, you want to make sure that you have your squealer, or the wear indicator, facing down. That's it. I've got that one right here. Slide that in. And then my outer pad, I'm going to do the same thing. My wear indicator facing down.

Now we're going to take our caliper here. We're going to use some more of that Moly grease going right around the piston here. And we're also going to come right up along these ears. Pretty much anywhere where the pad's going to ride up against or touch up against. You want to make sure you have some form of lubricant and that'll help with vibration dampening and noise reduction. Take that caliper, slide it right over those pads. Here we are. Grab your two new bolts. A little bit of thread locker is probably a good idea. Torque these to 31 foot-pounds.

Let's go ahead and grab onto this little rubber plug there. Get that out. We've got our banjo bolt. The caliper came with a brand new one. It also came with two brand new gaskets. Take your banjo bolt, put one of your gaskets on there. Hold on to that other one. Go ahead and grab that flex hose. You're going to take the bolt, banjo bolt with the gasket go through. Take your other gasket and put it on the backside of that banjo bolt between where it's going to connect onto the caliper. And then go ahead and start that in by hand. Go ahead and snug this up. Bottomed out right there. Let's continue on just maybe an eighth of a turn.

There we are. Give your hose a nice wiggle, make sure that it can not pivot around and there's no way that this banjo bolt can loosen up. Let's go ahead and remove those pliers. Make sure that your hose is not twisted in any way. If it's making a little curly-cue or a pigtail or anything like that, you need to remove it or move your caliber and re-spin it so it's straight. Do is get this little off of the bleeder. Save that. We'll use a 10-millimeter. We'll just break this free real quick. There we are.

Now I'm just going to close it up lightly here. We'll get inside the vehicle and I'm going to pump up the brake until it's a semi-firm pedal. It's not going to be super firm because there isn't any fluid inside the caliper yet. Now that we have that pumped up, we're going to start off by opening this bleeder screw. And we're just going to wait a minute until we see some fluid coming out of here. I'd like to see a nice steady stream of fluid rather than a whole bunch of air bubbles. This is great. We've definitely got fluid coming out here at this point.

I can give the hose a little wiggle. See if I can get out any little bit of air that I can at this point. I'd say that that's close enough. Let's just go ahead and close it right down. You don't need to tighten it up very much because at this point we need to continue with the correct bleeding process. Now, the next thing that we're going to want to do is get up and make sure we double-check the brake fluid level. We want to make sure that the fluid's nice and level. Once we've done that, we're going to need a second person or you can continue on by doing the single-person bleed but it's easier with a second person.

So we'll have the second person get inside the vehicle and they're going to pump up the brakes for us. Go ahead and pump. So now they say holding. So I'm going to open this up and we're going to watch for fluid and air coming out. Now I'll close it up. I'll have them pump again. Go ahead and pump. I'm going to open it up. I'm going to watch for air bubbles again. You notice when it's an air bubble because it'll come shooting out kind of sporadically, it'll look like a big old mess just spraying.

So that one started off with a couple of little splats and then it went ahead and turned into a nice solid stream. So I think we're doing all right but let's do it one more time to be sure. Go ahead and pump. Now I got another air bubble there. I'm still going to continue pumping because why not? I like to make sure that there's zero air inside of the hydraulic system. It's very important. Go ahead and pump. So now with that pump, I got nowhere. That was a nice, solid stream of fluid.

At this point, it's probably a great idea to just do it one more time just to make sure that there's no air inside of the hydraulic system. That was a nice solid stream the whole way. At this point, I'm going to grab that bleeder, make sure it's nice and snug. We'll clean it up a little bit. Make sure you put your rubber boot back on there. That's very important. It's going to keep the moisture and debris out of your bleeder screw. And then, of course, I would clean up the rest of my corresponding area.

Now it's going to be time to get the wheel up on here. Let's start on those lug nuts and then we'll bottom them out and we'll torque them to 140 foot-pounds. Let's torque them. Double-check them if you want. And if you have a center cover, put that on as well. After we make sure we double-check that brake fluid, give it a wiggle. It looks as though this is low. There's the maximum line. Open this up. We're going to add some DOT 3 brake fluid. Bring it right up to that maximum line. Make sure you close it back up. Down the road you go.

Gonna take the center cap off, use a straight blade screwdriver. Take that off. Use a 22-millimeter socket, take off the lug nuts. Take the wheel off. Take these two caliper bolts out. I'm gonna use a 12-millimeter socket and then a 16-millimeter wrench just to hold the slide from spinning. Loosen these up.

Now just use a screwdriver, pry the caliper off. Pull it out. And you can use a caliper hanger and just support it from the upper control arm right there. Just make sure there's no tension on the hose. Slide it over here. Take the brake pads off. Just use the same straight blade screwdriver. And take an 18-millimeter socket, take these 2 caliper bracket bolts out. Take these bolts out and slide the bracket right off.

I want to separate the bracket from the caliper. I'm gonna use a 12-millimeter socket. Take these two bolts out. Now, before we put these anti-rattle clips or brake pad clips on, just use a little brake grease. Just put it right there. That's just gonna prevent some corrosion on the caliper bracket. You can put the clip down and give it a nice thin coat right on top. Do the same for the other side.

And take the caliper bracket, slide it in position. Take the caliper bolts, get those started. You can put some thread-locking compound on them. Now I'm gonna torque these bolts to 122-foot-pounds. Now take the brake pads with the wear indicator facing to the top, slide those in position.

Now we're gonna install this clip on the caliper itself. Just line it up. This piece goes towards the inside and just slips in like that. That looks good. Now take the caliper and line the caliper up. Get the bolt started. Now I'm gonna use a 16-millimeter wrench to prevent the caliper slide from spinning and then tighten this bolt to 31-foot-pounds. Do the same on the top one.

Now we want to top off the brake fluid before we attach the lines or even disconnect the lines because we don't want this brake fluid to go too low, or then it's going to be harder to bleed the system. And take the cap off, wipe it off first with a rag. Make sure you use the appropriate brake fluid. I'm just gonna top it off all the way to the top. That's good. Now we'll just put the cap back on.

Now, if you were not going to replace the brake hose when you're replacing the caliper, you would take this bolt out right here, the banjo bolt, and you're gonna replace the two gaskets on there. You're gonna use an 11-millimeter socket to take those out, put 2 new gaskets on, and then attach it to the caliper. We're gonna replace the hose in our video.

Now, take this cap off of here, take your banjo bolt with some new washers on them or gaskets, copper gaskets. Line this up. And then we're gonna torque this banjo bolt to 30-foot-pounds. Now I'm gonna take the cap off the bleeder right here. Just use a pick or something or even a little screwdriver. And make sure you have a drain bucket underneath or something to catch the fluid and we'll loosen up this bleeder screw. I'm just gonna let it gravity bleed first. Now, take your cap off. Double-check your fluid level before you bleed it, top it off. Now we had the brake line off for about 10 minutes. I only lost about that much fluid, which isn't too bad. So it only went down a little bit. So if you had to go about 10 minutes, that's probably acceptable. Put the cap back on. Now, the fluid started coming out of the bleeder, so it's gravity bled. I'm gonna use a 10-millimeter wrench, snug this up, and then if you have any other calipers or brake hoses to replace, now you can move on to the next one. Do all those before you perform a complete brake system bleed.

Now pump up the brake pedal, just go slow. So the pedal is still very spongy. Now what we're gonna do is hold the brake pedal down and open the bleeder up. So it's someone else pushing down on the brake pedal. Go ahead, push it down. When it's holding, I'm gonna open up the bleeder slowly. You're gonna see some air bubbles come out, then I'll close it, then I'll say, okay, you can let up, and then push it down again and have them hold it, open it up, more air bubbles came out. Let up. And hold it. Some more air bubbles came out. And doesn't look like there's any more air. So I can close this one up, tighten that, put the cap back on, just spray this area down with some brake parts cleaner and move onto the next wheel. Now you want to double-check your brake fluid level. Just use a rag, wipe it down, give it a shake. And there's a max line and a min line. Double-check it. Looks good. Adjust accordingly.

If for any reason before you were bleeding the brake fluid or before you were replacing the calipers, if the fluid level got below the master cylinder, you're gonna need to do an automated bleed afterwards. You're gonna need a scan tool and a pressure bleeder. But if you had the fluid up to par, you should be all set.

Reinstall the wheel. Put the lug nuts on. Now we're gonna torque these lug nuts to 140-foot-pounds in a star pattern to tighten the wheel down evenly. And just go around again, double-check. And reinstall the center cap.