Replaces
Replaces Toyota Lexus Front Driver & Passenger Side 2 Piece CV Axle Assembly Set TRQ CSA82458
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Replaces Toyota Camry Front Driver & Passenger Side 2 Piece CV Axle Assembly Set TRQ CSA72926
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Item Condition:
New
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Created on:
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to-video helps you out, and the next time you need a part for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace a rear axle on this 2002 Suburban. It's pretty much the same for any 2000 to 2006 Suburban, Tahoe, GMC, Yukon, as well as the 1500 Silverado and Sierra. The process is the same for both sides; we'll show how to take the brakes apart on the passenger's side and the axle on the left side. A lot of different tools are needed.
Start off by loosening up these lug nut covers. We'll fast forward as Don does this. Once those are all loosened up, you can pull the hub cap free. Now, you want to loosen the lug nuts preliminarily, raise the vehicle and remove them the rest of the way, unless you have air powered tools. Now, remove these two 12mm bolts, and we'll fast forward as Don does that. To loosen up your rotor either use a C-clamp to squeeze it or a screwdriver through the middle of it and pry between the caliper and the brake disc that loosens up the caliper so it comes off easier. Now, pry out the brake pads. Now, remove these two 18mm bolts using a piece of pipe to help break it free. We'll just fast forward as Don removes those two bolts. Now, pull your caliper bracket off, and pull the rotor off.
On the differential cover, there are either 10 to 12 bolts, and ours are pretty rusty so we use a cold chisel to knock the rust off of each side. These should be 13mm bolts if they're in good shape. We actually end up using a half inch socket because the rust has reduced their size just a little bit. You'll see later, we pound a half inch socket on there and are able to get them all off. We'll just fast forward here as Mike removes that bolt the rest of the way. Then he's just going to repeat the procedure on each of those other bolts all the way around the differential cover. For the higher ones, it does get a little more difficult and you will need an extension for your socket and ratchet to actually remove those bolts. Make sure you have a drip pan below the differential cover before you remove the last of the bottom bolts. You just want to remove those. Now, using your chisel, just hammer out on the bottom of the differential cover. Then replace the bolt at the top of the differential cover. Then use your chisel and hammer again on the other side and just let the fluid drain out. After it's drained for awhile, just pry out on the bottom and then remove that bolt and pull the cover down and out.
Now, if any debris falls down inside of here, as you can see right there, you just want to vacuum all of it out. Then take a rag, make sure it's somewhat clean, and just wipe everything down and stick the rag back in there. Then, using a razor blade, just cut off that old gasket along the outside. Use a wire brush to get any leftover residue of the gasket. At this point, you'll probably want to have your vehicle in neutral and rotate the chuck around so you can see that 8mm bolt. Remove the 8mm bolt and this pin will come down and out. Now, push your axle in, and, again, you're going to want to have your vehicle in neutral so you can use the drive shaft and rotate the chuck around so you can see where the C-clamps are. You can see that there's a clip on either side that holds either axle in. What you want to do is just use a stick magnet to pull the clip out on the axle you want to replace. There it is. Then the axle will just pull free.
As you slide your axle into place, you want to lift it up, and be careful not to drag it on the seal too much because you don't want to prematurely wear out the seal. Once it gets in, into the machined area, grab the axle. I'm actually lifting up the inside of the axle where it goes into the carrier bearings on the inside. You just got to find the right spot. Once you do, it goes right in and then make sure you push it all the way in so you can get the C-clamp on the other side. Now, put the C-clip back in place, you'll have to make sure the axle is pushed in further than it should go, and then once you have it in place, you'll want to pull the axle back out and the C-clamp goes into place. Now, we're using a new differential cover so we have a separate gasket, but if you're using your old differential cover you want to make sure the RTV goes all the way around and that there's no gaps in it. You can see ours does have a gap, but because of the other gasket that won't matter. Make sure you circle each bolt hole. Make sure there's no fluid on the outside here. Then take your differential cover and feed it up into place. You just want to replace the top bolt to hold it in. We'll just fast forward as he replaces the rest of the bolts. Make sure for this top bolt that you put this harness back into place, then let the gasket sit for a minute if you used RTV, and then tighten each of those bolts up. Then you want to just torque each of these to 15 foot pounds in a crossing pattern.
Next, remove this filler plug using your 3/8 inch ratchet. Ours is in rough condition so we're just going to hammer the ratchet into place and then remove that plug. Now, replace the differential fluid, and you want to just do this until it starts to pour over the side. When it starts to pour over the side, you can just put your pinky in there and make sure that the fluid is right to the top of the filler hole. You can just reach in there with your pinky. If it is, then you are all set. If it's all the way up there you can replace your cap. Now, just tighten it up with your ratchet and you're all set.
Slide your new rotor into place and then twist on a lug nut to just hold the rotor in place while you put the caliper bracket back on. Then put your caliper bracket back into place and replace those two 18mm bolts. You've got to back up a little bit. We'll fast forward as Don tightens those up. You want to torque these to about 85 foot pounds. Push your brake pads back into place. Then put your caliper back down into place and replace those two 12mm bolts. We'll just fast forward as Don does this and tightens them up. You want to tighten these to about 30 foot pounds. Put your wheel back into place and then replace your lug nuts and tighten them preliminarily. We'll fast forward as Don does this. Then torque each of the lug nuts to 100 foot pounds in a crossing pattern. Then replace that hub cap and tighten up each of your lug nut covers.
Before taking the vehicle out on the road, you want to pump the brake pedal until it firms up and try a stopping test of five miles per hour and ten miles per hour. Then you're all set.
We hope this video helps you out, brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
Tools used
I'm going to start by taking the wheel off. I'm going to use a 22-millimeter socket to take off all the lug nuts. And take the wheel off. Now we can take these caliper bolts out, I'm going to use a 12-millimeter socket to loosen those up. And if the caliper slide is spinning, you can use a 17-millimeter wrench to hold it while you take the bolt out. Now you can grab the caliper. You might want to rock it back and forth a little bit, that'll compress the piston a little, make it easier to slide off. Then you can use a brake caliper hanger and just hang it from the upper control arm or you can hang it from the coil spring, just like that. Just make sure there's not any tension on the brake hose itself. Now I'll take the brake pads off. Just slide them out of the way. Now we're going to take the bracket off. You need to take these two bolts out, use an 18-millimeter socket to loosen these up. And then grab the bracket and just slide it off. Now we're going to take the rotor off, just grab it and slide it. If it's stuck on there, you can take a hammer and just hit these locations.
It's stuck on the parking brake a little bit, just try to wiggle it and just take a pry bar and try to pry in here a little bit and get this off. I'm just going to take two screwdrivers just try to wiggle this back and forth. There we go. Slides right off. I took all the breaks off of this side. I did the same on the other side. Now to access the cover, I'm going to pull this bar out of the way. I'm going to use a 13/16 wrench or a 21-millimeter wrench. On the backside, there's a nut on the other side of this bolt, and take that bolt out. Use a 21-millimeter socket. I'm just going to use a bungee cord and just pull this out of the way.
Now it's always a good idea before you take the cover off to take the fill plug out. Otherwise, if you can't get the fill plug out, then you won't be able to add fluid to it after you're done. So just use a 3/8 extension and a ratchet. Here we go. Now some of these cover bolts are pretty rusted, so I'm just going to take a wire brush, just try to clean up some of the rust. Right. Now I'm going to take the cover off. I'm going to use a 13-millimeter socket to take all these bolts off. I'm going to leave the top one in a little bit, just leave it loose, and then I'll pry the cover off.
This one has the brake bracket right here, brake hose bracket, or brake lines, move it out of the way. Just be careful. If this looks really rusty, be more careful with it. I'll just loosen this one up. I'll just leave it like that. Make sure you have a drain bucket underneath before you start taking those bolts out and just get a screwdriver or a pry bar. Just get underneath the cover and just slowly pull it back and let the fluid drain. And once that's loose, you take the bolt off and slide the cover out. There you go. You need to put the transmission in neutral and rotate the drive shaft so that this bolt ends up right here because we're going to take that pin off. Now I'm going to take this bolt out, which actually has a pin that goes through there and I'm going to use an 8-millimeter socket. You can try to use a wrench. Sometimes it's not so easy. And just take that off, loosen that up. And slide this out.
You're going to have to go around the carrier and then try to push on the pin and slide this out. Now I'm going to carefully rotate the driveshaft again. Just make sure the gears aren't turning because you don't want them to fall out. That looks okay. Now I need to hit the axle, use a rubber mallet or a dead blow. Just tap it in. What you're looking for is there's a clip in there and you need to be able to access that clip. Right now I can't get to it. So I've going to tap this in more. Right.
So now the C clip is out far enough that I should be able to grab it with a magnet. Just use a magnet and grab it. You might have to rotate it a little bit. Slide it out like that. Now I can use a pry bar and just pry the axle out. Be careful, just pry right where the parking brake mechanism is, right there. Once you pry out that far, then it should be easier to pull it out. There is a reluctor wheel in there that it presses on to and it just drops down once you pull that out. And slide the axle out. Now we're going to install the studs on the axle. Now you want to make sure you install them this way. You don't want to put them in backwards. So make sure with the shaft of the axle, the studs go through this way. So there are many different ways you can do this. We're going to use a ball joint press to get this lined up and you could go to a hydraulic press if you had a hydraulic press and tighten it down.
You want to compress it all the way and loosen that up. And do the same for the other ones. Or if you're replacing your rotor anyway, you can put your rotor down, put this down backwards like this, line this up, and then take a hammer and just hammer it in. And when you get that down, you're good to go, move on to the next one. You just want to make sure you don't want to use it on a rotor that you're going to keep. You can use different types of seal pullers or sometimes even just a pry bar works good. Just get underneath there and just pry it out. Now I'm going to take a bearing puller and just slide this in position, get that lined up, this washer on, and then tighten this nut down. Now I'm going to use a slide hammer, get that all tightened up, and take the bearing out. There we go. Now we'll take the bearing and a bearing installer and just slide it in position. Take a hammer, tap it in.
Now you kind of want to pay attention to how deep it was in there before you took it out. Take a look. A little bit further. It will eventually bottom out and if you get to that point, that's okay. That looks good. Now I'm going to take the seal. Just make sure you check the edges around here. You can wipe them with a towel or something or a rag and they look good. There's nothing wrong there. Just take the seal, put that on, and the best way to install this type of seal use a block of wood. If you had a four by four, go this way, it works good. Just lay it flat like that. Use a hammer and give it a tap.
That's good. Or you can use a seal installer as well. Now, before you slide the axle back in, just take a little bit of your axle lube, your gear oil. You can check your owner's manual for the correct type and just lubricate that bearing and just spin it around a little bit and just take a look at those studs, make sure they're all the way down, make sure there's no air gap. And slide the axle in. And then you're going to have to tip it up a little bit just to get it. And you don't want to twist it too much because then you're going to mess up the spider gears. And I'm going to have to give it to a couple more taps so that I can get that C clip in. That looks good. And just take the clip, slide it in position. It's all the way in. Then just slide the axle up. Then you can do the same procedure on the other side. And after you're done that, then rotate the drive shaft and get the pin lined up. You may have to move the spider gears. Just make sure the hole is lined up with where the bolt goes. There we go. You can give it a little tap with something soft. And slide the pin back in, the pin bolt. Tighten that up.
Now I'm going to torque this bolt to 27 foot-pounds. This vehicle has an 8.6 rear-end. If you have a nine and a half rear-end, you're going to torque that to 37 foot-pounds. At this point, you can put the vehicle back in park. At this point, I can use a scraper or even a razor blade, just be careful if you're using a razor blade and just scrape off any excess gasket material. Now I'm going to use a little brake parts cleaner and just wipe this down. Just try not to spray directly into the gear. Now I can take the gasket and just line that in position. And take the cover. Try to go over the gear. There you go. Just twist it a little bit.
You don't have to pick the sway bar links out, but you could if you were struggling with that and just line this all up. And get the bolt started. And now I can move this brake hose bracket down and brake lines and put that bolt through. I'm just going to snug these down before I torque them down. Now I'm going to torque this to 30 foot-pounds and make sure you torque it in a cross pattern. So we'll torque this one and then just go criss-cross. All right. That's all of them. If you're not going to use this fill plug to fill up the rear differential, you can use a 10-millimeter hex socket and tighten that up. Just make sure it's snug. Now, just hook this up and torque this to 77 foot-pounds.
With the fill plug out, I'm going to add the limited slip additive first. It's a good idea to add it and do that first before you add the gear oil and then add the proper gear oil. You can check your owner's manual. You can use a hose to get the fluid into the rear diff. All right. Now, as you're filling this up, if you notice that it starts coming out of the fill plug, then that's up to the ideal level. Certain vehicles it doesn't have to go all the way to the fill plug. You want to check your owner's manual and put the appropriate amount of fluid in. Now put the fill plug in. And snug this up, not too tight. Once it starts getting a little snugger, just a little bit more. That's good. Take a little brake parts cleaner and clean it off. Now, take the caliper bracket and line it back up. Brake caliper bolts, get those started.
Now I'm going to torque these bolts to 122 foot-pounds. Now I'm going to put the brake pads on. Now the warning indicators are going to go to the top. So on the inboard pad, it goes at the top and same with the outboard pad. Just slide them in position. That's good. Now I'm going to take the brake caliper off the hook and just slide it over the brake pads, put the caliper bolts in. Take a 17-millimeter wrench and torque this bolt to 30 foot-pounds. Do the same on the top. Put the wheel on and put the lug nuts on. Now I'm going to torque these lug nuts to 140 foot-pounds in a cross pattern so that it tightens the wheel down evenly. And just go around and double-check.
