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1A Auto Lifetime Warranty
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Part Details
TRQ brake kits are designed to restore your brake system to like-new performance. TRQ brake pads are positive molded, thermal scorched, chamfered, and utilize a multi-layer shim for enhanced performance and service life. TRQ rotors have a non-directional finish that reduces the break-in period for new rotors as well as reducing vibrations throughout the rotor’s lifecycle. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Product Features
Premium Positive Molded Brake Pads Features and Benefits
Item Condition:
New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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Hi, I’m Mike from 1A Auto. We’ve been selling auto parts for over 30 years!
Going to take our 19 millimeter socket and breaker bar, and while the vehicle is on the ground, we'll loosen our lug nuts. Raise and support the vehicle. With the lug nuts loose, I can just take the socket and finish taking them off. Lug nuts loose, we'll take the wheel off and tire and put it aside.
Before you remove the caliper, you need to unbolt the rubber brake line from this bracket here so they have more space to move the caliper. I'm going to spray some rust penetrant on the backside of it and a little bit here. This is a 12 millimeter bolt—we use a socket and ratchet to remove it. Pull the bolt out, let the hose out of the bracket. Before you remove the lower and upper caliper slide bolts, make sure the e-brake is released because the parking brake or e-brake on this car works through the caliper. So if it's tight and pulled you're not going to be able to remove this caliper because it's going to be gripping the brake pads, the rotor, so just make sure that's released first. These are 12 millimeter bolts.
You may also need to counterhold the slide pins. These are 17 millimeter. I'm using a 12 millimeter box wrench to release these. That one I didn't need to counter hold the slide pin, it didn't turn. I'm going to leave that in there and then work on the top one. Remove the bolts. And I have a bungee cord ready. I'm going to hang this caliper up on the spring. May need a large flat bladed screwdriver or a small pry bar and just pump this caliper up and off. Take a bungee cord and hold that off to the side. Pop our old brake pads out of here with the pry bar and remove the lower and upper caliper bracket bolts. These are 14 millimeter—use a 14 millimeter box wrench. They can be on there pretty hard. I'm going to use a dead blow mallet to tap on the wrench to break it free. Work on the top one same way. Those loosen. I'm going to switch to a ratcheting wrench to make this a little quicker. The top bolt removed. Pull the caliper bracket off and put that aside.
Need to remove the retaining screws that are holding the brake rotor on. Spray a little rust penetrant in here. You need a big Phillips head screwdriver. The problem is when you go to turn it, it's going to want to turn the whole rotor. I'm going to throw a couple lug nuts on here. Take a pry bar and counterhold it and turn. I'm going to have someone help me and hold these with a long breaker bar and then, if you've got a decent screwdriver, you can actually put a wrench on here sometimes to give you a little extra leverage. Set up and try to turn this off. Push in and turn just like that. Let's try this one. If you wreck these taking them out I wouldn't worry about putting them back in.
All they do is hold the rotor against the hub when you've got the wheel off the car or whatever, it just keeps it from being loose, but you could use lug nuts to hold it in place while you reinstall the brake parts. I wouldn't worry about it. I'm going to take off these lug nuts I was using. The rotor is now loose. Careful not to drop it.
Here's the original brake pads from our vehicle and our brand new ones from 1AAuto.com. It has the same solid style brake rotor and same style pads. This would be the opposite side, but matching pads with the little pins that go into the piston and the wear indicators. Already come with shims installed. Same amount of lug holes and same holes for the mounting screws. These should fit on there and work great for us. Going to grab our caliper, unhook it from the bungee cord, just kind of move it over here. It’s still attached to the parking brake cable and the brake hose.
This piston can't be pushed in, it needs to be turned in. I'm going to use these needle nose pliers, there are tools for this but I'm going to use these pliers instead, and basically just turn it clockwise because when you pull the parking break it pushes the piston out, and part of that mechanism to retract this piston for our new brake pads, it needs to be turned in, so we're going to turn it clockwise. You don't want this boot to get twisted up that's around the cylinder in the brake caliper, so I'm just going to spray a little bit of rust penetrant. I'm going to take a bit and I'm very carefully just cleaning some of the rust from the edge, and hopefully what happens now is I can turn this piston clockwise and it won't twist the boot. Just using the pick to free it up and the oil to help it slide. I keep turning it. There we go, that's better. Alright.
So, once you get it turned down, just make sure that this is basically vertical. Maybe turn it just a little bit, because the inner pad has a pin on it that's going to sit in this slot. So, that looks pretty good like that. We're going to reuse our caliper bracket hardware. We need to clean it. These are just stainless steel. We’re just going to clean the dirt off. Spray some brake parts cleaner and use a wire brush. Repeat that for both sides. Now is a good time, while you have the caliper bracket off, to check that your slide pins are moving freely. That one feels good. That one also feels good.
If the clip pops off, don't worry about it, just get it cleaned up and clip it back into place. Take our new rotor. I'm going to put it on backwards first, take some break parts cleaner, clean off the oil that they come shipped in, wipe off any excess. I'll grab them by the edge, flip them over. I'm going to line up the counter sunk holes with those threaded holes there. I'm going to find them and line them up. If you've got these screws you can install them, if not, you can leave them off. You can just put a lug nut on here to hold it tight until you get the whole brake assembly back on. We'll put them back in. Just snug them down, they don't have to be super tight. All they do is keep the rotor from moving around when you're installing all the brake parts and taking the wheel and tire on and off.
Now we'll take brake parts cleaner and clean down the face of the rotor. Let's reinstall the bracket. Place it over the rotor, capture top bolts, might have to move the bracket around to get it to line up. That's threaded in. Capture the bottom one. I'm just going to switch to a ratcheting wrench so I can finish installing them and then I'll torque them afterwards. I'm going to torque the caliper bracket bolts to 54 foot-pounds. I'm just going to make sure the brake pad surface is clean. Just hit it with some brake parts cleaner. You don't want to have any grease or dirt on there. Take a little bit of break caliper grease, put it on the ears, and don’t have to go crazy with this stuff. This is going to be the inside pad, it has the wear indicator on it. It's going to sit in here just like this. Repeat that for the outer pad.
Take our bungee cord off, don't forget to take it out of here. Place the brake caliper back onto the bracket. You'll know pretty instantly if you didn't retract the piston far enough because the caliper won't want to go on. So that slid right on. I'm going to reinstall the bolts. Tighten this one up. Might get to a point where you're trying to tighten these caliper slide bolts, then they'll start to spin in the slides. The slides are 17 millimeter. You can use that to counter hold it. I'm just using a 12 millimeter socket and ratchet and I'm just going to tighten this up. The torque on these is 17 foot pounds—it's pretty light.
I'm just going to do it by hand. Just repeat that for the top one. This bleeder screw makes it a little tricky to get a box wrench in here but the socket and ratchet works perfectly. Don't forget, after you're done putting the brakes back together, put the bolt back in holding your rubber brake hose. Tighten that down. Alright. Put the wheel back on the car. You want the lugs caught, get them caught by hand first, we'll torque them with the vehicle weight on it when it's on the ground. Really just need to bring them down until they're seeded. The vehicle on the ground. The lug nut torque is 79.6 foot pounds, so we're going to do it 80. Do this in a cross pattern.
And the final step to push the caliper pistons back out to meet the pads. We're going to gently press in the brake and pump up the pedal pressure, and you'll feel it start to get harder.
Thanks for watching. Visit us at 1AAuto.com for quality auto parts, fast and free shipping, and the best customer service in the industry.
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Once your vehicle is safely raised and supported, we're going to remove all 5 of these 19-millimeter lug nuts. Remove the wheel. The next thing we want to do is push back this caliper piston. Generally speaking, you'd want to spray down this area, take off the boot, brake free your bleeder screw. For this application, we're actually just going to push back the caliper slowly doing just like this. I'm coming right in between the caliper and the rotor through this hole. I'm slowly prying. Now, I can do this, and you can see that piston inside. You want to make sure that's in as far as it can go. Take a peek. Actually, that looks pretty great.
The next thing we're going to do is remove the caliper to bracket bolts using a 12-millimeter. Once you have your caliper off, take a look at the piston area in the boot. Make sure you don't see any fluid. If you see any fluid coming from here, you either need to rebuild your caliper or replace it. Rest your caliper, so it's not hanging from the hose. Grab your pocket screwdriver, pull out this pin. Same thing here. Make sure you hold on to these. Next thing we're going to do is move these pads around and try to get them out of here. If you look at the pads, you can see there's one that looks like that. And there's one that has a wear indicator. The wear indicator on this goes on the inside pad and it's up facing the top.
The next thing we're going to do is remove the caliper bracket to knuckle bolts using a 17-millimeter. Grab that bracket. There it is. The next thing we're going to do is use some penetrant, and we're going to go right along this hole, all those studs, and try to get this corrosion out of here. Make sure you spray that screw. Now, once you let this sit for a couple minutes, you can go ahead and try to take out this Phillips-head screw. To remove it, you don't actually use a screwdriver, you need to use an impact driver with a Phillips-head bit. Go ahead and put it in there. Twist it to the left. Give it a couple bonks. It should want to break free. Okay. Came right out. The next thing we're going to do is put one of these lug nuts on just a few threads. Now, we're going to continue on with the hammer, and you can give it a couple bonks on the braking surface assuming you're getting rid of your rotors, or you can go right along here. There we are. There it is.
The next thing we're going to do is clean up the mating surface where the rotor is going to ride. So, you can use a sanding disc or a little wire brush. Get this as smooth as possible. Now, that that's cleaned up, let's go ahead and clean down the area. The next thing you want to do is put on some copper Never-Seez along the areas where it's going to mate. Spread it out all along the whole area.
One of the next things we need to do is clean down the brand new rotor's braking surface. It's going to come with shipping lubricant on there just to keep it from getting rusted along the way. Make sure you do the other side. So, now we're going to put our rotor up on here. You want to line up the inverted hole right along that spot where you can see those threads, so you can put this in. And go ahead and put this in there. Tighten it up as much as I can. And one bonk. That's it.
Okay, so we've got our bracket here on the bench. Next thing we need to do is remove the tins. And then once we get those off, we're going, of course, take these out of here, and then we're going to clean everything up. So, I'm just going to do one side of this, and you can just do the same on the other side. Take off your tin. Grab this. You're going to take your screwdriver, go right along this lip, and that comes right out. At that point, we can wiggle this around. Take out your boot completely. Just take a look at it, and make sure it's not ripped or torn anywhere. That looks great. Once your boot is out of the way, you can take a nice brush, or a little screwdriver, or even a nice sanding disc, and clean this up.
So now, as you notice when you pulled out your pins, you're going to see that they're different. You want to make sure that you have the one that has the boot on it matching up with where you took it from. Okay? But you do need to clean them. So, clean these up as good as you can, especially up inside this area right here. This area is where the boot is going to ride. If it's not cleaned up, there's a possibility for moisture to get in between and, of course, seize up the slider inside of the bracket.
The next thing we're going to do is going to be using chemicals. We're going to go right in here with some parts cleaner. Use a nice bore brush. Go ahead and dump that out. Oh, yeah. Nice. If it looks like it's really nasty in there, you can do that a couple times. It's a good idea to take a peek right inside. If you see any corrosion or pitting, you need to obviously make sure that it's in good condition. Go right along this edge right here with your little screwdriver. That looks great. Do the same to the other side. All right, so that looks great. Let's move along to these boots. Using our rag, go ahead and make a little tunnel just like that. Run it through and then spread that boot, and just rub it along the rag. The rag is going to rub along the inside and clean off any gunk that might be hanging out in there. Nasty. That looks pretty good. Do the same to the other.
Okay, so we've got our sliders cleaned up. We've got our boot cleaned up. We've got our caliper bracket all nice and clean. Everything is ready to be lubed at this point. Go ahead and grab some of your caliper moly grease. We're going to get started. First, what I'm going to do is I'm going to go around all four of these ears. Putting this on here is going to help with noise reduction, vibration dampening, and of course, keeping moisture from getting in between the tins and getting your pads stuck. Let's move along to those sliders. One of the first things I like to do is just go right along the slider hole. I like to put a whole bunch right in there. Awesome. The next thing we're going to do is lubricate the slider. Of course, you do the shaft, and then it's super important to make sure you get all the way up to this point up here. Get right over that ridge. Even if it's just a teeny bit, it's going to make all the difference. I'll tell you why. Next, we're going to grab this boot. Just slide it right in. Give it a little twist. If it falls right out, it's not seated properly. Now, we're going to grab this slider pin, gonna slide it in, and this boot is going to catch right up onto that ridge just like that. You're going to give it a couple spins. That's going to work in that grease. Now, there isn't going to be any ability for water to make its way inside of there. Do the same to the other side. Once we have both those sliders in like they are, we're going to move along to the bracket tins. That's these right here. Go ahead and line them up, and then squeeze them on there.
It's time to get our bracket on here. Go ahead and slide it right up over. We have our two bolts. Little bit of thread marker. We'll call it your prerogative. Go ahead and bottom both of those out, and then we'll torque them to manufacturer specifications. Let's torque these to 85-foot pounds. Torqued. It's time to get the new pads on. Just make sure you have the brake indicator in the same area. You want that going on the pad on the inside. Should slide right into the bracket here. There we are. Do that outer pad. Same thing. Those look great.
So, next, we're going to take a look at this caliper. You want to take a little bit more of that moly grease, go right along the piston where it's going to hit up against the brake pad, and then along both of these ears. Just get a nice little coating on there. That's going to help with vibration dampening and noise reduction. Let's set this here for a second. The next thing we want to do is get these springs on here. Can start with whichever one you want. I'm going to start down low. Make sure you hold a grip on it because it's going to want to separate on you. And get this one on there just like that. If I was to let this go, they're going to go [Vocalization] just like that. Okay. Awesome. Make sure they're all the way in. Go ahead and grab that caliper and slide them over. Slide that right over. Push in those sliders. Now what you want to do is make sure that they're turned, so they line up with this notch right here. So, you can just grab them and turn them. This one, same thing. Awesome.
The next thing we need to do is put on our mounting screws. Start them both in before you tighten them down. Torque these to 25-foot-pounds. Torqued. Let's go ahead and get the wheel back up on here. Start all your lug nuts on, and then bottom them out. The next thing we're going to do is torque these lug nuts to 80-foot-pounds. Torqued. Once your wheels are torqued, you're going to get inside your vehicle and slowly pump up your brake pedal till it's firm.
The next thing you want to do is under the hood. You're going to come over to your master cylinder. You can open it up and take a peek inside. Once you can see where the level is, take a look from the side and you'll see a maximum line. You want to be just about right there. Once you're sure that it's full, make sure that you close it back up. There it is. Close the hood and take it for a road test.
