Replaces
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1A Auto Lifetime Warranty
Frequently bought together
Part Details
TRQ suspension kits are manufactured using premium raw materials and coatings for extended service life. Each TRQ suspension component is designed to be a direct, maintenance-free replacement to the stock unit. To extend the life of your steering and suspension components, TRQ recommends replacing components in pairs, sets, or kits. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Product Features
Replacing struts used to require specialized tools to compress, remove, and transfer the old spring and mount. Our Pre-assembled, complete strut & spring assemblies come with all new parts and make the job much quicker and easier for the do-it-yourself mechanic.
Strut & spring assembly contains:
Our steering and suspension components are pre-greased and sealed for long life and do not require the extra maintenance typically required by greaseable versions.
Item Condition:
New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Chromium (Hexavalent Compounds), which is known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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Created on:
Tools used
Hi, I’m Mike from 1A Auto. We’ve been selling auto parts for over 30 years!
With the vehicle on the ground, you use a breaker bar and a 22 millimeter socket to loosen the lug nuts. Raise and support your vehicle with a jack and jack stands. We're using our two post lift. Use the socket. Finish removing the lug nuts. There. It's seized to the hub.
Take a couple lug nuts. Just thread them on lightly. Use a dead blow or a rubber mallet and hit on the tire. It will knock it free. Lug nuts will keep the wheel from falling off. Now it's loose, so you finish taking the lug nuts off. Just going to support it so it doesn't fall. Top of the sway bar link bolts through the strut. I'm going to use a wire brush and just clean the threads off, so that when I remove the nut that's holding it, it'll spin easier. Knock off some of the dust. Knock off some of the dirt, rust, and then I can spray some rust penetrant on here too.
This nut is 18 millimeter. I'm going to use an eight millimeter socket on this breaker bar to counter hold the end of the sway bar link so it doesn't spin while I'm trying to remove it. Just kind of make sure it gets on here. It's a little rusty. Push it on. Brace that against the knuckle and remove this nut. Let's see. Go this way with it. Spray some more rust penetrant on here to help get rid of some of the rusty, chunky bits that are coming off. The nut is self-locking. It's not perfectly round on the end. That's what locks it. It's going to be hard to turn, but it should turn. Just keep doing this until you thread it all the way off.
If you're replacing the strut, make sure you have a new sway bar link on hand because sometimes they break and they'll need to be replaced. As it gets towards the end and the locking part is coming off the threads, it should get looser and easier to turn. Let's see. Take this off now. Just going to spin it off with my fingers. Let's see, it's stopping on that socket. It got stuck. Just give it a couple turns. The socket's loose. Now it'll just come off with my fingers. Do the same for the inside one, and do the same for the lower one. It's just facing away and towards the inside, so you really can't see it directly. You can kind of see it from the side. I'm just cleaning off the threads. Spray it with some rust penetrant, and the breaker bar with the eight millimeter socket. Now it's loose. Just thread it off by hand, and pull it out of the sway bar and out of the wheel well.
This is the original sway bar link from our vehicle. Brand new one from 1AAuto.com. These are left and right. They are identical. They can be installed on either side. The new one from 1A Auto has a new nut. Instead of counter holding the end to tighten it, you're going to counter hold here. These will install perfectly and work great for you. Remove the nut and install it in the same way the original was. This one was facing in. The joint was on the outside part. Go through the sway bar. Thread the nut on for now. Tighten them afterwards. It'll get to the locking part of it. It's not perfectly round. That's how it locks. You'll feel like a tight. You can just stop. Take this top one off. It goes through the back of the strut. Just go underneath the ABS wire. You may have to bend them a little bit, which they do flex. Just install the nut and then tighten them down.
The backside of this is a six point. It looks like it would be a nut. It fits 18 millimeter. You put it on there to counter hold it. We use an 18 millimeter socket to drive this in. Just tighten this down. This will be the same for both of these, both the top and the bottom. I'll just get it tight, and I'll come back and torque it.
I'm going to do the same for the other side and install the lower one. There's not a lot of clearance here. I'm going to counter hold it with the long 18 millimeter on the hex drive that's on there, and then I'm going to use a short 18 millimeter to tighten it. Just repeat this until it's tight. Torque on the bottom sway bar end is 57 foot-pounds. Counter hold it. The torque for the top one is 55. There we are. Install the lug nuts by hand. I'm just going to use the socket. Thread these down. We will re-torque them with the vehicle on the ground. Torque the lug nuts in a cross pattern to 140 foot-pounds.
Thanks for watching. Visit us at 1AAuto.com for quality auto parts, fast and free shipping, and the best customer service in the industry.
Tools used
I'm gonna remove the wheel. Use a 22-millimeter socket, and pull the wheel off. I'm just gonna use a little rust penetrant. There's a little bit of rust on the stud. Take an 18-millimeter wrench, and you can loosen up the nut. And the stud is gonna spin, so you want to use an 8-millimeter socket. Put it on the stud.
You could try to loosen this up with an impact, but the stud is just gonna spin. And take the nut off. Now you can take the stud out, just like that. You can take this nut off the same way you took the other one off, if you use a 18-millimeter wrench and a 8-millimeter socket, or you can take some locking pliers, get on the back side, and use an 18-millimeter socket. Try to get it off that way. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't.
Now take the new link, slide it back in position. Put the nut on. And for the stud on this new link, we have a, there's actually a spot where you can put a wrench, so you can use an 18-millimeter wrench, 18-millimeter socket. I'm gonna snug this up first. And I'm gonna torque this nut to 55 foot-pounds. And slide the sway bar up. Slide the link stud through this bracket on the strut. Get the nut started, then use an 18-millimeter wrench, 18-millimeter socket. Tighten this up. And torque this nut to 59 foot-pounds. And put the tire on.
Now I'm gonna torque these lug nuts to 140 foot-pounds, in a cross pattern or a star pattern, to tighten the wheel down evenly. Now go around again. Just double check.
Tools used
I'm going to take a 22-millimeter socket and remove these lug nuts on the wheel. Now I'm going to remove the wheel. I'm going to take this nut off first. I need some locking pliers behind just to hold the stud from spinning. Now what you could do is take an 18 millimeter wrench, and then a socket on the end of this, and loosen it up that way, but this is a lot easier using the 18-millimeter socket. And you might have to tighten this up a little more. And take that nut off. Remove these hold-downs for this ABS wire or wheel speed sensor wire. Just use a trim tool to get underneath here. Pry that off. Then over here just like that. Set that aside.
Now the new strut is probably going to be slightly different. But just to get the alignment somewhat close, just take a marker and just mark the knuckle. Try to put the new strut close to that. You're still going to need an alignment after you're done, but at least this will bring it close. Take a 24-millimeter socket and take these nuts off. And then same with the bottom one.
Now take a hammer and slide these bolts up. They are slotted, so that's what's keeping them in the knuckle. All right. Now we can separate the knuckle from the strut, and then just slide it to the side. And you want to be careful. You don't want the axle to pop out. So try to push on this, and then you can use a bungee cord, or a bungee cable, and just slide it over here. Just find something that you can attach it to underneath. Just go around the back just like that. And that's just going to prevent the axle from popping out and to make sure there's no tension on the brake hose.
You need to remove the wipers. Use a straight blade screwdriver. Just get underneath the cover right there. Use a 15-millimeter socket. Take that nut off. And grab the wiper arm, and just rock it back and forth. Or you can use a wiper arm removal tool, and slide it up just like that. Then do the same for the other side. Take this ground adapter off. Just use a 15-millimeter wrench. And because of the way this trim panel is, we're going to need to remove this panel. Take a trim tool. Just get underneath here. Do that on both sides and then remove all these clips. That's a clip right here and throughout the rest of the panel.
Now just grab this panel and slide it out of the way. Remove these trim pieces on both sides. Use a trim tool. Take these clips out. Now I'm going to remove all these pushpins. Just use a trim tool along the base of the cowl. Just take this fuse box cover off just because it's in the way a little bit. Just push down on these locks and then slide it out of the way. You can slide this up. All right, so lifting this up and then sliding the back side down. There is clips that go underneath the glass holding it in.
Now we don't have to take this off completely. You just need to get it out of the way. You can take this washer hose off. Just slide this out. You can just take a screwdriver or something to brace this up just like that. You just need to access the top of the strut. Now I'm going to take these nuts off at this top of the strut mount. Use a 15-millimeter socket. I'm going to take two off, and then before I take the last one off, I'm actually going to hold the strut, with the strut, and take the last nut off. And slide the strut down, and then tip it, and slide it out.
Now, we're going to take the new strut. I'm going to hold one of the nuts in my hand. Now slide the new strut between the brake hose and the axle, and then tip it up. And try to line those studs up, up top. And I'm going to put the nut on from up top. And now I can let go from below, and just get the other nuts started. I'm not going to tighten these down yet. Just get them all started.
Now you can take that bungee cord off, and just slide the knuckle in position. Take these bolts, line them up. Now leaving it loose up top makes it easier to line this stuff up. If you tighten those up, it's not as easy. You can get that lined up. And then try to...try to line the strut up with those lines that you made. And then we'll tighten these down. Now just make sure that line lines up pretty close, and take your 24-millimeter socket. I'm going to snug these down with the gun. Once you see the struts starting to move towards the knuckle then stop. And then torque those 2 nuts to 144 foot-pounds.
Now I'm going to take this wheel speed sensor wire, and push the retainers back in their place. And take the sway bar, slide that into the bottom of the strut. Pick the nut. Put that on. Take an 18-millimeter wrench on the inside, 18-millimeter socket, tighten this up. Torque this to 59 foot-pounds. All right, now you can put the tire back on. And then put the lug nuts on. Now we're going to tighten the lug nuts down to 140 foot-pounds in a cross pattern to tighten the wheel down evenly.
I'll just go around again. Double-check. Then I'm going to snug these up first. And now I'm going to torque those nuts to 33 foot-pounds. Now I'll just take this screwdriver out of the way. Get the cowl positioned underneath the windshield properly. Now I'll just take this cover, and slide that in position, and put the retainer in. Do the same on the other side.
Now make sure this is all lined up with these clips in. Now take this panel, slide this in position. Make sure that lines up. Put this weatherstrip on both sides. Now take all these push retainers and put those back in. And put the fuse box cover back on. And take this ground adapter, screw that back in. Just snug it up with a wrench. And take the wiper arm, reposition it on the windshield. Sometimes you can see where it was from before, where you could have marked it with a crayon. And put the nut on, and torque this nut to 29 foot-pounds. Do the same for the other one. And close the cap. Now after you're done with this repair, you're going to want to take the vehicle to a local garage and have the vehicle aligned, so you don't have premature tire wear.
Tools used
I'm gonna take a 22-millimeter socket and remove these lug nuts on the wheel. Now, I'm gonna remove the wheel. We're gonna take this nut off first. I'm using locking pliers behind just to hold the stud from spinning.
Now, what you could do is take an 18-millimeter wrench and then a socket on the end of this, and loosen it up that way. But this is a lot easier using the 18-millimeter socket. I might have to tighten this up a little more, and take that nut off. Now, that that's separated. I also separated the other side and that makes it easier, so, it's a good idea to do them both in pairs.
And then you can slide this down, and then you can gain access to this nut. We'll do the same on this one. Use some locking pliers, hold the stud from spinning, 18-millimeter socket, it comes right off.
Take the new link and slide it up. You're going to slide the stud towards the middle of the vehicle, and put the nut on using an 18-millimeter wrench then a 18-millimeter socket. Torque this down first. Torque this nut to 55 foot-pounds.
Slide that into the bottom of the strut. Take the nut, put that on. Take an 18-millimeter wrench on the inside, 18-millimeter socket, tighten this up. And torque this to 59 foot-pounds.
All right. Now I'm gonna put the tire back on, and the put the lug nuts on. Now, you're gonna tighten the lug nuts to 140 foot-pounds in a cross pattern to tighten the wheel down evenly. I'll just go round again to double-check.
