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Part Details
TRQ fully loaded shocks and struts are manufactured using premium raw materials and calibrated to restore original ride comfort. TRQ shocks are fully loaded featuring a pre-loaded bearing plate, upper and lower spring isolator, upper spring seat, coil spring, boot kit, and premium strut. TRQ recommends replacing your shocks or struts in pairs to ensure even wear of components and improved ride comfort. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Product Features
Our direct fit gas-charged shock absorbers help restore your vehicle's handling and ride quality to just like new.
Replacing struts used to require specialized tools to compress, remove, and transfer the old spring and mount. Our Pre-assembled, complete strut & spring assemblies come with all new parts and make the job much quicker and easier for the do-it-yourself mechanic.
Strut & spring assembly contains:
Item Condition:
New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Chromium (Hexavalent Compounds), which is known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this helpful video helps you out. The next time you need a part for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to be showing you how to replace the front struts on this 2007 Mazda 3 series. We'll show you the right hand side, left hand side is the same procedure and obviously we always recommend that you replace your struts in pairs. You'll need a new set of loaded struts from 1AAuto.com, jack and jack stands, 13 to 19mm sockets, ratchets and a breaker bar or pipe for some extra leverage, a couple of the bolts are pretty tough, flat blade screwdriver, locking pliers, a large hammer, 5 or 10 pound sledge, penetrating oil and a torque wrench.
Start off by removing your wheel and tire. There will be a hub cap so you'll remove the hub cap first. We have the benefit of air tools. If you're not using air tools, you'll want to loosen the lug nuts with the vehicle on the ground first then raise and support the vehicle and remove the lug nuts wheel and tire. We're going to apply some penetrating oil to the bolt that holds the lower strut and as well as the upper bolt for the stabilizer link. There is a clip that holds the break hose into the strut, now use a screw driver to pry that clip out. You can pry from the side first and then kind of pry up from below and pull the clip out.
Once you remove the clip, just pull the hose free. Now, take a pair of vise grip or locking pliers and lock it onto the back side of the stabilizer shaft and then there's a 14mm bolt and remove that with a 14mm socket and ratchet. Now, there's a 17mm bolt that holds the steering knuckle to the strut. You see I'm using a 17mm socket and ratchet and a pipe for some extra leverage to loosen up that bolt. You need to make sure that you spray that bolt with a lot of penetrating bolt beforehand to help this process along. Okay, we just shed that extra pipe and removed the bolt the rest of the way.
I'm going to coat with penetrating oil around the bottom of the strut where it goes with the steering knuckle and then use a nice, big sledge hammer and just hit the steering knuckle directly at first. Once you get it to move then put a piece of wood in just so you don't do too much damage to the steering knuckle and use the wood to hammer it the rest of the way off. There are three 14mm bolts that hold the strut in at the top, remove those. One note as we fast forward here, you want to remove two of the bolts and then just loosen up one of the bolts most of the way. You want to leave one bolt intact.
Okay, with one bolt still up top installed, push down on the steering knuckle and break the bottom free. Now, finish removing that top bolt and bring the strut down and out. Old strut on the left, new strut from 1A Auto on the right. You can see all the mounting points are the same. It's going to install just the same. Okay, ready to install the new strut. There's the stabilizer link mount that goes right to the back, easy way to line it up. Put the strut up in and then start one of the bolts on. It's just a matter of lining it up. Once you have one of the bolt holes lined up then start the bolt on. Once you get one, you can start the other two. Now, just fast forward. We're not tightening them up all the way, we're just kind of preliminarily tightening them up.
Now, we're ready to put the bottom back together, put some penetrating oil or grease in then in hope to get things together. Push the steering knuckle down. Line them up with a strut and push it in. Once you started, put a floor jack underneath the spindle and jack it up and that will force the spindle or the steering knuckle up onto the strut. Now, you can put the bolt through. It will only go through if the strut is together enough. We'll fast forward here as we just preliminarily turn or preliminarily tighten that bolt up. Now, we'll use a torque wrench and tighten that bolt up to 80 foot pounds.
Bring the hose down, feed it through and back and up into position and put the clip back in place. Then fast forward here as we put that stabilizer link back in place. Thread the nut on, put the locking pliers on the back side and tighten it up, get it nice and tight, you want it anywhere from 50 to 60 foot pounds. Then keep the speed going here as we put the wheel and tire back on. Thread the log nuts on and tighten them up preliminarily. Okay, and back on the ground we've tighten the log nuts to 100 foot pounds using a star pattern. Reinstall the wheel cover noting the position of the valve stem.
Now, we're going to tighten and torque the upper bolts to 25 foot pounds and repeat all that for opposite side and we should be all set with nice new struts.
We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that here for you on the internet and in person.
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Hey friends, it's Len here at 1A Auto. Today we're working on our 2011 Mazda 3, and I'm going to be doing a rear shock. It's going to be very simple. I want to show you how to do it. If you need any parts, you can always check us out at 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
Okay, friends. Here we are. We've got the vehicle partially supported off the ground, but the wheels still touching, so it can't spin. We're going to use our 21-millimeter socket, and we're going to loosen up all these lug nuts. Just give them a crank or two. This is just to break them free in case you're not using an air gun to do this job. If you are, you don't really have to worry about doing this part. Now that all five of these are loosened, we can go head up with the vehicle. We'll make sure that it's secured safely, so it can't shake around, or fall off, or anything like that. We'll move ahead to the next step.
All right, so now we're going to go ahead and fully remove these lug nuts. I'm going to take off three of them. The fourth one I'm going to take all the way off, put it back on a few threads, and then I'll remove the last one. There we are. I'm just going to put this one on a few threads, like I said. That's just going to help keep this wheel from falling off and potentially hurting me while I put all this stuff away. Hold the wheel. My lug nuts. We'll slide this out of the way. On to the next step.
Up here, you have 12-millimeter nuts that go onto these studs right here. I'm just going to use a ratchet, and extension, and a socket, of course, 12-millimeter. If you had access to an air gun, you can do that. There we are, 12-millimeter nut. You can do the same to the other one. Number two, set this aside. All right. Okay, so right down here we have a 17-millimeter. I'm just going to use my air gun here. Grab this, pull that out. Now we can bring our shock right down. There's our rear shock. Easy peasy.
All right, so we've got our rear shock. We're ready to install it. I'm just going ot come up through the bottom here. Right up. Bring it to my holes. We've got our two brand new 1A Auto nuts. There we are. I'm just going to go ahead and bottom these out. Once they're bottomed out, we'll torque them down. These are close now. Bottomed out. Let's torque these down to 20 foot pounds. One. There we are. Just checking one more time. Let's move on to the next step.
To get the lower part of the shock on there, as you can tell, when it's fully expanded, it hangs down lower than where the bolt hole is. Lifting this thing up by hand, trying to lift it like that, somebody could probably do it. I'm not trying to say that I'm the strongest person in the world. It's just not the easiest thing. I'm just going to use a pole jack. You can use a floor jack if you're working a little lower to the ground. I'm just going to kind of bring the holes up so they line up. There. Okay. I'm just going to blast this in a little bit. There we are. We're going to torque this down with our 17-millimeter to 77 foot pounds. There we are. Let's hit it one more time real quick. Tight.
Now it's time to get the wheel up onto the vehicle. Instead of going in front of it and trying to lift, and potentially hurting our back, you just come around the side of it, roll it right up your leg and use your ab muscles to lift it up. There we are. Hold your wheel. Make sure it can't go anywhere. There we are. Okay. Our next step is going to be to bottom these out, and then we'll bring it down completely, and torque them down.
Now that we have all the lug nuts started on here, what I'm going to do is I'm just going to bottom them out. When I go to bottom them out, what I'm going to do is I'm going to go in a star pattern boom, boom, boom, boom, boom. Basically, crisscross pattern. That's to ensure I'm not going to go around in a circle this way. The wheel is not going to get kinked on just like this, and I think everything's nice and tight. You drive it down the road, the wheel is going like this. Next thing you know you're breaking studs. Your wheel comes off. God knows what could happen. Let's avoid that. Let's go crisscross star pattern.
I'm not making them very tight. I just wanted to bottom them out. Now I'm going to go ahead and torque them down. Okay, so here we go. We're going to go ahead and torque these down. We're going to make the same star pattern in a crisscross manner. Okay. 21 millimeter, 85 foot pounds. I could have probably brought it down another inch. Just to be sure we torqued them all, let's just hit them again. Cool. Easy peasy.
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