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1A Auto Lifetime Warranty
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Part Details
TRQ suspension kits are manufactured using premium raw materials and coatings for extended service life. Each TRQ suspension component is designed to be a direct, maintenance-free replacement to the stock unit. To extend the life of your steering and suspension components, TRQ recommends replacing components in pairs, sets, or kits. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Product Features
Install Tip: When replacing steering components, have a professional alignment performed afterwards. This ensures proper tracking and even tire wear.
Our steering and suspension components are pre-greased and sealed for long life and do not require the extra maintenance typically required by greaseable versions.
Item Condition:
New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video we're going to show you how to replace the sway bar end links on this 2008 Dodge Ram. Typically, you want to replace them in pairs. These are the tools that you're going to need: rust penetrant, 15mm, 16mm, 17mm, 18mm sockets, ratchet, socket extension, locking pliers, torque wrench, jack and jack stands
Raise and support your vehicle. You can do it with jack stands, but in this case we have a lift so we're going to use the lift. In the front end of the truck you can see that your sway bar end link is right here. We're going to start by shooting the threads with some rust penetrant so that it makes our whole job a whole lot easier.
To remove the sway bar end link, you're actually going to have to rotate the sway bar up. To do that, you have to disconnect the opposite side sway bar end link. If you're going to just be replacing one of the sway bar end links, then you just need to disconnect the bottom of the other side, but if you're going to be replacing both like us, and we recommend replacing both at the same time, you're going to want to lubricate the top and the bottom with the penetrating oil.
You'll see that the sway bar end link has a 15mm hex on the bottom side of it so that you can hold it with a wrench. Then on the top you're going to need a 17mm deep socket and ratchet. The bottom end of the sway bar end link has an 18mm spot for a wrench on it. You can wedge it in between the wheel. The bottom side is an 18mm 6-point. Now you can take the nut right off the bottom. We're going to be replacing both of the sway bar end links, but if you're just doing one, you need to disconnect the opposite side, the bottom of it. The 18mm wrench that we were hoping to use didn't fit in this scenario, so we went right to the locking pliers.
With an 18mm socket on the bottom, you should be able to loosen it right up. Then you can pop the nut right off the bottom. Now we need to raise up the sway bar so that we can pull the sway bar end links out. Unfortunately, we just put brand new bushings in here, so the sway bar is really tight, and it's tough to push up. We're going to start by loosening up the sway bar bushing brackets. You don't have to take all the bolts out. We just need to loosen them up so that the sway bar will move a little freer.
Now we're going to push the sway bar up on this side so that we can come over here and remove the sway bar end link from the sway bar. We're going to be replacing both of the sway bar end links, so the next thing that we do is rotate the sway bar like this. You haven't easier access to this upper nut on the sway bar end link. You can put a 15mm here, 17mm socket on the top, and loosen it up.
This right here is a 1ASSL00405. This is also an aftermarket piece; it's actually been replaced before on the truck. You can see that they're obviously very similar. Ours has the new bushings and washers, and nuts, along with the grease fitting included. The only difference between these two that I can come up with is these points right here, where you put the wrench on to remove them. It's just 18mm versus 19mm. It's going to fit just like the original one does and hopefully solve your problem.
Get your 1A Auto sway bar end link, and take the nut and the washer and the rubber bumper off the top, leaving one rubber bumper and the washer on there. Slide it through your sway bar. Then put the nut on, but leave it really use so that we can actually slide it down into the control arm later. We're going to repeat this step on the opposite side. We're now going to spin the sway bar up, and set the sway bar end links down through the control arms. Then we'll loosely install the nuts on the bottom of the sway bar end links.
We're going to start by tightening up the top of the sway bar end link with a 15mm wrench right in here and a 16mm socket and ratchet on the top. Just snug it up. Then we'll move to the bottom. We'll take a 19mm wrench, slide it right over here, and an 18mm socket and ratchet for the bottom. Once it's tight, you'll want to repeat these steps on the opposite side.
Next, we're going to tighten up all of the sway bar bushings bolts that we had loosened earlier in the job. These we should set to 45 foot-pounds. With the sway bar bushings torqued and the sway bar end links replaced, now you can lower the truck back down to the ground and you'll be all set for the road ahead.
Thanks for tuning in. We hope this video helped you out. Next time you need parts for your car, please visit 1AAuto.com. Also check out our other helpful how-to and diagnosis videos.
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Okay, friends. To get started on this vehicle, the first thing we want to talk about is safety. You want hand and eye protection. Secondly, you want to make sure that you raise and support the vehicle by the frame so the suspension's hanging. Next, let's remove our lug nuts. Remove your wheel. Okay, friends. So here's our front sway bar link. As you can tell ours is broken at the top. So I have the new one here to show you. If you were to look at it, you have the stud that comes down through the bottom of the control arm. Following it up, you're going to find another stud up along the top that comes to the top of the sway bar itself. On top of that, there'll be a little bushing, a washer, and a nice nut. You would of course remove the nut and then the washer and the bushing, and then you'll be left with this.
Next, we're going to move right down here and we're going to remove this nut. I'm just going to take a nice pair of locking pliers like this, clamp it onto this stud, make it as tight as possible. Let's remove that 18 millimeter nut. Okay, for us personally, where the top of ours is broken, this is going to come out nice and easy. If you still had the top of the stud on your sway bar link, what you're going to notice is it's going to be very hard to get it out. You could try to pry up on the pry bar and see if you can squeeze it out. But in all actuality, when you're replacing sway bar links, you do them as a pair anyway. So now's a perfect time to go over and remove the right one as well.
Here we are. There's our old sway bar link. Let's dispose of this properly and grab our new one. Let's go ahead and take apart our sway bar link so it looks like this with a washer and one bushing up along the top there. You can slide it into either direction you want, and then of course, we're going to bring the bar down once we have the other side in as well. Let's start this nut on here. Looking at the lower aspect of the sway bar link, where it's going to connect to the actual control arm, you can see there's like a little nut there. We're going to hold that and then turn this.
Now we're going to snug up this nut and we're just going to watch these bushings right here. You wanna see them touch up against the bar, but you definitely don't want to see them squished down so they look like a pancake and start bubbling out. That looks pretty great right there. You can see it's squished down here, squished down there. It's definitely making contact with both sides of the bar. Do the same thing to the other side and make sure you have the same amount of threads on both sides. Let's torque this to 20 foot-pounds. Go ahead and put the wheel back up on here. We're going to start all of our lug nuts and then we'll torque them to 130 foot-pounds. Torqued.
