/2004-10 Toyota Sienna with 7 Passenger Seating Front Wheel Drive Front Driver & Passenger Side 2 Piece Strut & Spring Assembly Set TRQ SCA57105
1ASSP00846-2004-10 Toyota Sienna with 7 Passenger Seating Front Wheel Drive Front Driver & Passenger Side 2 Piece Strut & Spring Assembly Set TRQ SCA57105
Kit Includes: (1) Front Passenger Side Strut & Spring Assembly (1) Front Driver Side Strut & Spring Assembly
TRQ fully loaded shocks and struts are manufactured using premium raw materials and calibrated to restore original ride comfort. TRQ shocks are fully loaded featuring a pre-loaded bearing plate, upper and lower spring isolator, upper spring seat, coil spring, boot kit, and premium strut. TRQ recommends replacing your shocks or struts in pairs to ensure even wear of components and improved ride comfort. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Product Features
Loaded Struts: Pre-assembled application specific design
Application Specific Design: No modifications necessary
Matched Pair: Improved comfort and extended service life
Restored Performance: Reduced body sway and vibration
Replacing struts used to require specialized tools to compress, remove, and transfer the old spring and mount. Our Pre-assembled, complete strut & spring assemblies come with all new parts and make the job much quicker and easier for the do-it-yourself mechanic.
Strut & spring assembly contains:
Upper Strut Mount
Strut Bearing
Coil Spring
Boot & Bumper Kit
Gas-charged Strut
Item Condition:New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Chromium (Hexavalent Compounds), which is known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
FREE Shipping is standard on orders shipped to the lower 48 States (Contiguous United States). Standard shipping charges apply to Hawaii and Alaska.
Shipping is not available to a P.O. Box, APO/FPO/DPO addresses, US Territories, or Canada for this item.
Expedited is available on checkout to the United States, excluding Alaska, Hawaii.
Final shipping costs are available at checkout.
How to Replace Front Sway Bar Links 2006-11 Toyota Camry
Created on:
Tools used
Socket Extensions
Torque Wrench
17mm Wrench
Rust Penetrant
Pry Bar
18mm Wrench
17mm Socket
Jack Stands
18mm Socket
Brake Parts Cleaner
21mm Socket
21mm wrench
6mm Allen Wrench
Reciprocating Saw
Ratchet
Wire Brush
Floor Jack
1/2 Inch Breaker Bar
1. Removing the Wheel
Pry off the hub cap with a pry bar
Loosen the lug nuts with the vehicle on the ground
Raise and support the vehicle
Remove the lug nuts
Pull the wheel off the hub
2. Removing the Sway Bar Link
Spray rust penetrant on the upper sway bar link nut
Clean the upper sway bar link nut with a wire brush
Hold the upper sway bar link nut with a 6mm hex socket and breaker bar
Loosen the nut with a 17mm wrench
If the nut is stuck, hold the sway bar link ball joint with locking pliers if necessary
Remove the 17mm nut
If the nut remains stuck, cut the sway bar link stud with a hack saw or reciprocating saw
Hold the lower sway bar link ball joint with locking pliers
Remove the 17mm bolt from the lower sway bar link stud
Remove the sway bar link from the vehicle
3. Installing the Sway Bar Link
Hang the sway bar link where it attaches to the strut
Slide the sway bar link stud into sway bar
Start the 18mm nuts onto the sway bar link studs by hand
Hold the sway bar link ball joints with an 18mm wrench
Tighten the nuts with an 18mm socket and ratchet
Torque the 18mm nuts to 55 foot-pounds
4. Installing the Wheel
Slide the wheel onto the hub
Start the lug nuts by hand, with the tapered side facing the wheel
Tighten the lug nuts preliminarily
Lower the vehicle to the ground
Torque the lug nuts to 76 foot-pounds in a star pattern
Line up the hub cap with the valve stem
Push the hub cap onto the wheel
Hi. I'm Mike from 1AAuto. We've been selling auto parts for over 30 years!
Use a large pry bar or a flat bladed screw driver to remove the wheel cover. Just kind of slide it between the wheel and the plastic and pop it off. These lug nuts are a 21 millimeter socket. I'm going to use that and a breaker bar to loosen them while the vehicle's on the ground. Raise this part of the vehicle. We're using a two post lift, but you can use a jack and jack stands. The lug nuts are loose. I’m going to take my socket and finish removing them. I’m just going to hold onto the wheel and take the last lug nut off. It's going to be loose. You don't want to drop it. You can drop the lug nut. That's okay. You just don't want the wheel to fall.
I’m going to disconnect the sway bar link from the strut. Going to spray some rust penetrant on this upper sway bar mount. Use a wire brush to clean off some of the rusty bits. These can be difficult to take off, they get rusty and then the ball joint spins. It does have a hex spot here to put in a six millimeter hex drive. A lot of times that strips almost instantly as soon as you try to break it free ad you end up having to put vice grips behind to grab onto the ball joint, because there's no point here for a wrench. We’re going to do our best to get this one off without having to cut it off.
So this is 17 millimeter nut. Try to break it free first. See, it's turning, it's turning the whole ball joint with it. It's really tight. I’m trying to clean out any rust and dirt that's in this hex drive so I can get the hex drive to sit as far possible inside here, so it doesn't strip. Use some brake parts cleaner, I've sprayed some oil in there and I've been working the hex drive in to try to clean it out. I can see it's going in a little deeper, trying to get this sit as best I can. That's as far as it will go. Spray some more rust penetrant on there. I'm going to try to counter hold this hex drive while I free it with the 17 millimeter boxed wrench. We'll see how this goes. Sometimes you have to brace that against like the strut ad these just have so much – see, it's moving. That's good. It's really tight, though, so I'm just going to put that there. I'm going to spray some more rust penetrant.
These are typically self-locking nuts, so they're a little bit, they're not perfectly round. They're kind of oblong and that can make removing them difficult and also the rust gets gummed up in the threads. So I'm trying to spin this on and off to try to work the rust penetrant into the threads. So as I kind of expected, working these back and forth this hex drive they basically always strip. It's nearly impossible to remove them without these stripping, no matter what you do. So the next step I'm going to get some vice grips and try to hold the ball joint back here and use a 17 millimeter socket and ratchet and continue to remove this nut.
I’m going to try to slide these locking pliers behind the ball joint on the sway bar link. I’ve got a 17 millimeter deep socket on this longer ratchet, going to try to remove these. It feels like it's turning. One thing to mention if you're going to have to remove sway bar links for any reason or think you're going to have to remove them for any reason, you should have new ones on hand. They're almost a one-time use part.
If you're as lucky as us, you'll have to resort to power tools or a hacksaw to cut these sway bar links free. I'll do my best to avoid the strut, I don't want to damage that. I just want to kind of cut on the – going to try to find the narrowest part of the ball joint and the sway bar link. I think I'm on there.
I've actually gone in here. Because these sway bar links get seized on here so easily, I went in and cut the boot away, the rubber boot. So that I can get locking pliers in here to get a better grip on it and it's kind of working by holding it. I'm able to turn the nut out. Worst case if I get loose enough and it just keeps spinning, then I will take a saw and cut it right here. But I'm going to keep trying it right now with the locking pliers. Got it.
Here are our old sway bar links from our vehicle. You can see where I had to cut them. I was able to finally get this one out, but still, these have been destroyed by trying to remove them and you can see they're kind of rounded here. There's no real way to counter hold them to remove the bolts. They are supposed to have a hex drive in here. That strips out pretty quickly when you're trying to remove them.
Here's a brand new sway bar link this is from 1AAuto.com. These actually have a six-point on them so you can put a wrench on here and tighten them down and it's not going to spin on you and when you want to remove them to do other services, you can put your wrench over here and spin this off without destroying the ball joint and the sway bar link. So this should fit great and work great in your vehicle.
Put these up. Get this one up top. You can bend these around. Slide it through. These nuts are locking nuts, so the hole is not perfectly round. It's kind of oblong. So when this starts to tighten it will lock and it won't want to back off.
These nuts are 18 millimeter get this one set up here. The counter hold on the back is 18 millimeters. I'm going to use a deep socket 18 millimeter in the front. Get these snugged down and I'll come back and torque them. Torque for these sway bar links is 55 foot-pounds, and repeat it on the other nut.
Reinstall our wheel. It’s important to note these lug nuts have a taper. Taper meets the wheel and matches the inside of the wheel. Don't install them on the flat side like this; that is incorrect. Install them with the taper to the wheel. It helps locate the wheel on the lug nut stud. I'm just using the socket and ratchet to bring these down snug before I put the car on the ground. Torque the lug nuts to 76 foot-pounds, going in a cross pattern. Reinstall the hub cap. You’ve got to line up the opening for the valve stem with the valve stem on the wheel. Just push it in place.
Thanks for watching. Visit us at 1AAuto.com for quality auto parts, fast and free shipping, and the best customer service in the industry.
SCA57105
In Stock
Product Reviews
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4.78/ 5.09
9 reviews
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Great Parts
Bernard
March 7, 2017
Good price, perfect fit, no issues at all. Would recommend to others and have numerous times.
Perfect fit
Ryan
April 24, 2017
These installed like a charm. the product itself was quite a bit lighter in weight than the originals that i pulled out. Not sure if it due to better design or cheaper quality. So far it is working great. My suggestion is that if you are replacing the strut/spring assembly, to also invest in new sway bar links. I had to cut both mine off due to rust and corrosion stripping out the allen head.
customer service
Syed
October 11, 2018
i have ordered the set of strut on line and received on time but one box was damage, i call customer service they apologize for the inconvenient and send me the replacement right away.Associate was very professional and courteous.
Good parts
N
April 26, 2019
The parts came as described. And everything fit up great
Strut spring assembly
S
March 17, 2020
Bought set of these and they fit perfectly.About half the price of local parts store.Highly recommend them to deal with
2007 Toyota Sienna Front End
Alexander
August 7, 2022
All the parts fit at half the mark up of the dealer. But the ride is more rigid because the spec's for the strut springs was off. Not quite right but I saved money.
Scott
February 7, 2023
great product at a great price!
Great Quality Parts and great prices!
Juan
October 5, 2023
My 06 Toyota Sienna was in bad need of repairs. Loud clocking noise coming from both front tires and very low chasis. I ordered these assembly struts, got here very fast, checked out the A1auto video on how to install them. Took me 2 hours to do it myself. My van now runs so smooth and comfortable. Totally recommend A1auto parts.
Ronnie
March 13, 2024
Easy installation and puts ride back to factory specs, always replace sway bar links at same time will save you a lot of hassle.
Customer Q&A
What brand of strut is this?December 22, 2017
Ron M
10
Mine were Lacree when I got them 1.5 years ago. They may change as when I called with the same question they just told me they were house branded.
December 22, 2017
Brentt H
10
We use multiple manufacturers such as Leacree who are based in either China or Taiwan to make these parts. Once they are received to our warehouse we apply our 1A Auto label and call them our in house brand.
December 22, 2017
Alex P
What is the difference, and how does one tell which assembly if for the right front, which is for the left front?May 18, 2018
Walt L
10
If you purchased these items from us there will be part numbers that correspond to the packing slip that came with the shipment. The parts will also match the items in the vehicle. Thanks!
May 18, 2018
Adam G
10
Compare the old, if you have not taken it out yet
May 19, 2018
Ladonna C
What size are the three nuts on the top mount assembly?May 21, 2018
Walt L
10
I don't have the exact measurements. Our parts are designed to be exact replacements for what came with the vehicle, so as long as your year, make, and model match up with our listing, these will definitely fit and function just like the original. Please let us know if you have any other questions.
May 21, 2018
Elesban A
10
The nuts at the top will be the same size as the factory hardware. Thank you!
May 21, 2018
Adam G
I have an 06 Toyota Sienna AWD LE 7 pass I need front struts can you send me an item number so I can order the Right parts because everything I see seems to me that is for eight passengers or only FWD and my car is 7 pass?March 28, 2023
Rafael G
10
This is not the correct part for your vehicle, but we do carry the one you need. The correct part number is: SCA57027.
March 28, 2023
T I
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