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1A Auto Lifetime Warranty
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Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to service the front brakes on this 2004 Volvo XC90, pretty much the same for any 2003 to 2012. We show you the passenger's side. The driver's side is the same procedure. You do always want to service your brakes in pairs. We find that the brakes on this vehicle are actually in good shape. So, we just take them apart and put them back together in order to show you how to do it. The tools you'll need are a jack and jack stands; lug wrench or 19mm socket with breaker bar; 10mm and 18mm sockets; flat blade screw driver; a large C-clamp; a hammer; and a torque wrench. If you're replacing your brakes, don't forget to check out 1A Auto for great parts and great service.
I'm going to start out with a little high energy, fast motion here. You just pry the little chrome caps off the lug nuts. If you don't have the benefit of air tools, you'll want to loosen the lug nuts with your lug wrench or a socket and breaker bar. Loosen them up while your vehicle's on the ground, then raise and support the vehicle, and remove the lug nuts, and remove the wheel and tire.
In behind, you'll want to remove two 18mm bolts: this one here and this one right up here. To remove those two bolts, you'll either want a breaker bar, or I'm going to show you how to use a pipe for leverage. Put my socket wrench on there. This pipe is going to give you some extra leverage. Just make sure my socket's on there well, and then just slowly apply force to the pipe until the bolt breaks free. Now, I'm going to fast forward here as I break the top one free and then just use my socket and ratchet and get those bolts out the rest of the way. This whole assembly comes right off. We'll put it there for now. To get the outer pad out just use a screw driver and pry right in here. That comes out, and the inner pad is somewhat the same thing, just pry it right out. You see, actually my pads are in good shape too so I'm going to put this all back together the way it is. I'm just doing this to show you.
The next thing I'll show you is how to remove the rotor. You'll want to replace that. I just usually put the caliper right up there like that. You're going to have probably a 10mm bold on here. If you need to just take a screw driver and hold the rotor in place. It may take a little more force than that. That pulls off. We took this off and we just need to put a lug nut in. If my rotor comes loose quickly, that will just hold it in place. Use the ball end of the hammer. Four good raps right on the hub and it should come loose. This comes off.
You can see I've just kind of bolted my caliper on just a little bit. I just throw the bolts on to hold it in place with the large C-clamp. What happens when the brakes wear out, is this piston works its way out of the caliper so this C-clamp, as I tighten, you see that caliper go back inside. So you need to have a large C clamp to tighten it up and force that caliper back in. That will allow enough space for your new brake pads to go on. Let's just speed up here as I remove the C-clamp and then take that caliper back off.
Here we're going to put the rotor back on. Again, the brakes on this vehicle are fine so I'm putting them back together as is, but you'd obviously put your new rotor back on. Just line it up and start that 10mm bolt back in and tighten it up.
Bring the caliper down. The inner pad has this triangle here. Push this part of the caliper back in, put the pad down in and that pad just has a little clip on it that clips into the piston that you reset with the C-clamp. I just use a ratchet handle, in a minute, so we can get a little more leverage and push the pad right into the caliper. With a little help from a ratchet handle puts it in place, and put the outer one down in. The bracket comes through here. Just squeeze it into place. Bring the caliper and pads down into place. I'll speed up here. Just hold the caliper in place, push the 18mm bolts through, and thread them into the caliper. Then, use your socket and ratchet and tighten them up preliminarily. Tighten these up to 90 foot-pounds. Get this back in. Put one side in. Make sure my center's in there, and bend the other side down. Push it down.
To put the wheel in. I like to make sure that one of the top one of the holes is right at the top. Pick up your wheel, line it up. You've got to have it lined up to start with. Speed up here as I thread each one of the lug nuts in and then preliminarily tighten them with my wrench. Take these to 100 foot-pounds. You'll want to use a star pattern as you tighten them. Put the lug covers back on. Whenever you service your brakes, make sure you pump them. Get a nice hard pedal before road testing.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
