Kit Includes: (1) Front Outer Tie Rod (1) Front Wheel Bearing & Hub Assembly
Product Features
100% New: Manufactured to tighter tolerances for extended service life
Upgraded Elastomer: Premium seals to extended service life
Moly Greased: Specifically-designed grease shield to reduce premature wear
Restored Performance: Refreshed steering system for improved road-feel
TRQ drivetrain kits are manufactured using premium raw materials to restore original performance. Each TRQ drivetrain component is designed to be a direct, maintenance-free replacement to the stock unit. To extend the service life of your drivetrain, TRQ recommends replacing wheel hubs, bearings, and constant velocity (CV) drive axles at the same time to ensure even wear of components and improved ride comfort. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
What are Tapered Bearings and Why Use Them? Tapered bearings use rollers shaped like flat-topped cones and two races angled from the outside in of the bearing. This angle makes the bearing better at handling forces exerted on the bearing during cornering (known as axial load) in trucks and large cars. Your model came from the factory with tapered bearings. Roller ball bearings work well for smaller cars, but replacing a tapered bearing with a roller ball bearing increases wear and failure.
Install Tip: When replacing steering components, have a professional alignment performed afterwards. This ensures proper tracking and even tire wear.
Our steering and suspension components are pre-greased and sealed for long life and do not require the extra maintenance typically required by greaseable versions.
Item Condition:New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
FREE Shipping is standard on orders shipped to the lower 48 States (Contiguous United States). Standard shipping charges apply to Hawaii and Alaska.
Shipping is not available to a P.O. Box, APO/FPO/DPO addresses, US Territories, or Canada for this item.
Expedited is available on checkout to the United States, excluding Alaska, Hawaii.
Final shipping costs are available at checkout.
How to Replace Tie Rod 1998-2005 Ford Explorer
How to Replace Tie Rod 1998-2005 Mercury Mountaineer
How to Replace Outer Tie Rod 2002-2005 Ford Explorer
How to Replace Wheel Hub Assembly 2002-2005 Ford Explorer
Created on:
Tools used
13mm Socket
15mm Socket
Rust Penetrant
Jack Stands
Liquid Thread Locker
21mm Socket
Flat Blade Screwdriver
Tie Rod Puller
8mm Socket
Wire Ties
Lug Wrench
Ratchet
Floor Jack
Needle nose pliers
1/2 Inch Breaker Bar
Wire Cutters
Marker / Writing Utensil
1. Remove the wheel
Loosen the lug nuts
Raise and secure the vehicle
Remove the lug nuts and set the wheel aside.
Put the wheel under the vehicle for added security in the event of a jack failure.
2. Remove the brakes
Remove the 13 mm sockets anchoring the caliper.
Wire tie the caliper up out of the way.
Use a 15mm socket to remove the caliper bracket
Remove the rotor
Remove the dust shield with your 8 mm socket and ratchet
3. Remove the outer tie rod
Use your pliers to remove the cotter pin from the tie rod
Remove the nut with your 21 mm socket and ratchet
Pull apart the tie rod with a tie rod puller.
Use a paint marker to mark where the top nut on the tie rod is.
Use two adjustable wrenches to remove the tie rod.
4. Install the new tie rod
Apply a little loctite to the inner tie rod
Screw on the outer tie rod to the inner tie rod up to your paint marker mark.
Fill the dust boot with grease
Reassemble the tie rod end, replacing the nut and cotter pin.
Reassemble the brakes and wheel.
See our other videos for more detailed instructions.
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet.
Hi, I'm Mike Green. I'm one of the owners of 1A Auto. I want to help you save time and money repairing and maintaining your vehicle. I'm going to use my 20+ year's experience restoring and repairing cars and trucks like this to show you the correct way to install parts from 1AAuto.com. The right parts installed correctly that's going to save you time and money. Thank you and enjoy the video.
In this video we'll be replacing the tie rod on this '98 Explorer same as any '95 to '01 Explorer, Navajo, and Ranger, Mazda B Series pickup, and really this is a procedure that is similar for most cars.
Tools you'll need on the Explorer: jack and jack stands, 8mm, 13mm, 15mm, 19mm, which I forgot there, 21mm sockets and ratchet, pliers, a tie rod puller which is the right way to do it. You can use a hammer but you have to be careful. Loctite, a red or black marker, and two large adjustable wrenches.
So obviously you're going to want to jack up and secure your vehicle. You can just work a screwdriver in there to pry off your cap, and these are 19mm. If you don't have impact tools, loosen your lug nuts on the ground, then raise your vehicle and secure it with a jack stand, and then remove the lug nuts. Once the lug nuts are off just pull the tire right off, and there's four bolts that basically hold the brakes on. There's one here 13mm, and one up here, and those just hold the calipers to this big bracket. There's also a 15mm bolt here, and a 15mm bolt right up here. We're just going to speed through removing those four bolts, and you pull the caliper up and off and you can wire tie it up top and then that bracket comes off with the 15mm bolts, and we'll pick it up from there.
This bracket then comes right off, and your rotor comes right off. You're going to want to take off this dust shield and its 8mm bolts. Remove this cotter pin with a pair of pliers. Needle nose usually works best but usually the best thing to do is just grab hold and break off the pin on this side. It's a 21mm bolt, and actually give it a good tug. It does come easy. We'll put our puller on there. Now you could just use a big hammer and pound this through, but we want be very careful. If you go that route, you don't want to mushroom the end of this, and then it actually won't go through your steering knuckle. Now really this is using the tie rod ball joint puller is the best way, and you'll end up tightening this up good, and pretty soon it will pop. There it goes. A couple of big adjustable wrenches here. I'll fast forward a little here as I try and mess with it to try and get the best angle to both get a good pull on the wrenches and still be able to see it with the camera.
So that's off so now I'll lock this one onto here. The new tie rod does come with a new nut here so what I'm going to do is mark really well where this nut was so that when I put the new one on I know to go right up to where I put the red marks. I'm going to put just a little bit of Loctite on here, some down here, and put the new nut on. You can tell pretty well where it was. What you want to take into account is if either this nut or the length of your new tie rod is any different, you want to adjust the position of this nut. So if your tie rod is a little shorter, you adjust it out a little bit, or if the tie rod was a little longer than your original adjust it back in. So that's about where my old one was.
Now I'll put the new tie rod on, and you want to make sure you hold this. You don't want this twisting because that is adjustment as well, and if you do this this should give you a pretty good initial alignment. I recommend you go get an alignment so you don't wear out your tires too quickly or end up wearing out the new tie rod or wearing out your ball joints or anything like that if you car's not aligned correctly. Start my bolt down here to hold this in place. Now I want to tighten the lock nut up here really good. So I'm going to now tighten up this nut to about 75 foot pounds, and tighten it up a little more to get that and get my cotter pin right through there. The cotter pin you just take it and yank it right around. Then last but not least we'll put in our grease fitting and take our pliers and tighten that up. It comes pre-greased, but you can fill it up with grease, and now we can put everything back together.
We'll kind of fast forward putting that brake shield back up and tightening up those three 8 mm bolts. We'll also fly through putting the brakes back together and your wheel back on. A couple of notes, again, you probably would want to get a alignment after you've done any steering or suspension work like this, and then also just the first time you drive your car just be very careful. You've worked on the brakes. You've worked on the steering. So make sure your car is stopping before you go fast, and make sure that there is no looseness or anything in the steering before you road test it.
If you do want to see putting your brakes back together in regular motion, just check out our front brake video. We'll put the wheel back on. Put your lug nuts on. Get them snug then lower your car to the ground. Torque them up to 90 to 100 foot pounds. Replace your cap, and you're in business.
We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Please feel free to call us toll free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the internet and in person
Tools used
Adjustable Wrench
A Piece of Pipe (for leverage)
Torque Wrench
Hammer
Jack Stands
19mm Socket
Grease Gun
21mm Socket
Measuring Tape
7mm Socket
Ratchet
Floor Jack
Needle nose pliers
1. Removing the Wheel
Pry off the center cap with a flat blade screwdriver
Loosen the 21mm lug nuts with the vehicle on the ground
Raise the vehicle with a floor jack
Secure the vehicle on jack stands
Remove the lug nuts
Pull off the wheel
2. Removing the Outer Tie Rod
Measure the distance from the boot of the inner tie rod to the edge of the outer tie rod
Make note of this measurement
Remove the cotter pin with a pair of pliers
Remove the 19mm ball joint nut
Loosen the nut that holds the outer tie rod to the inner tie rod with an adjustable wrench
Remove the 18mm nut from the outer tie rod end
Strike the steering knuckle with a hammer to loosen the outer tie rod
Pull the outer tie rod out of the steering knuckle
Twist off the outer tie rod by hand
3. Installing the New Outer Tie Rod
Twist the new outer tie rod onto the inner tie rod
Push the outer tie rod into the steering knuckle
Fasten the 19mm castle nut onto the outer tie rod
Tighten the castle nut to 50 foot-pounds of torque
Push the cotter pin through the castle nut
Twist the cotter pin into place with needle nose pliers
Attach the grease fitting to the new outer tie rod
Tighten the grease fitting with a 7mm socket and ratchet
Fill the tie rod with grease, using a grease gun
Measure the distance from the boot of the inner tie rod to the edge of the outer tie rod
This should be the same as the measurement noted in Step 2
Tighten the nut that holds the outer tie rod to the inner tie rod with an adjustable wrench
4. Reattaching the Wheel
Slide the wheel into place
Start the lug nuts by hand
Tighten the lug nuts preliminarily
Lower the vehicle to the ground
Tighten the lug nuts to between 100 foot-pounds in a crossing or star pattern
Reattach the center cap
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks!
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace an outer tie rod on this 2003 Mercury Mountaineer. We show you on the passenger side, but the driver side is the same procedure. The items that you need for this is a new outer tie rod from 1AAuto.com, a 7mm, 19mm, and 21mm socket and ratchet, a piece of pipe for some extra leverage, two adjustable wrenches, a pair of pliers, a hammer, a tape measure, jack and jack stands, and a torque wrench.
Pry off the hub cap by using a flat blade screwdriver in the small slot on the side. Once you get it started, you can just pull out around the edges. If you don't have the benefit of air tools, you'll want to start with the vehicle on the ground, loosen the lug nuts, then raise and support the vehicle on jack stands. Remove the lug nuts, wheel, and tire the rest of the way.
There's a small indent on the inner tie rod. Put the tape measure there and measure out to the center of the grease fitting, which is 9-1/16" in this vehicle. Then, just bend off the legs on your cotter pin on the bolt. Then just pull the cotter pin out with a pair of pliers. Then, using a 19mm socket and ratchet, just remove this nut. Spray this nut with some penetrating oil, and then, using two adjustable wrenches, just separate it. Once it turns, it's loosened up, and you can hammer your wheel knuckle until you see the outer tie rod move. You can see it move right there.
Now you can pull it up and out of the knuckle and twist off the outer tie rod. Up top is the old outer tie rod, and below it is the new one from 1A Auto. You can see they're identical, and they'll fit exactly the same.
For lineup purposes, ideally what you want to do is be able to remove this without turning the inner tie rod. Our bolt or nut didn't come loose. That's not a big deal, but it does mean that we will need to take this and have it aligned because we did turn the inner tie rod a little bit, but we can still put it back together. We'll fast-forward as Mike twists on the new outer tie rod. Remove the nut and then line up the outer tie rod with the hole on the wheel knuckle. You may need to move the wheel knuckle around a bit until it goes down in place. Once you get it in, replace that nut and then just tighten it up. You want to tighten this to about 50 foot-pounds. Once it's fully tightened, make sure the hole lines up with the castle nut, and you may need to turn it a bit more so that it lines up, and then just push your cotter pin through and bend the tabs in opposite directions.
Tighten that nut back on to the outer tie rod using your two adjustable wrenches. Put in your new grease fitting and tighten it up with a 7mm socket and ratchet. Now, just add a few squirts of grease into the grease fitting. Replace your wheel, and then replace all the lug nuts and tighten them preliminarily. Then, you'd want to lower the vehicle and tighten them the rest of the way and torque these in a crossing pattern to 100 foot-pounds. Replace your hub cap, and we recommend you have your front alignment checked and adjusted if necessary.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
Tools used
21mm Socket
21mm wrench
Torque Wrench
Pry Bar
Copper Anti-Seize
19mm Socket
Tools used
Torque Wrench
Hammer
14mm Socket
15mm Socket
Pry Bar
18mm Socket
19mm Socket
Liquid Thread Locker
Trim Tool Set
Pocket Screwdriver
Pick
21mm Socket
Copper Anti-Seize
Center Punch
30mm Socket
Wire Brush
PSA64795
In Stock
Product Reviews
Loading reviews
There are no reviews for this item.
Customer Q&A
No questions have been asked about this item.
Customer service
877-844-3393
Monday - Friday 8:00am - 9:30pm ET Saturday - Sunday 8:00am - 4:30pm ET
Enter Vehicle Year Make Model
Specify your vehicle's year, make and model to guarantee fit.
Year
Make
Model
Options
Drivetrain
This part doesn’t fit a . Select from parts that fit.