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Part Details
TRQ brake kits are designed to restore your brake system to like-new performance. TRQ brake pads are positive molded, thermal scorched, chamfered, and utilize a multi-layer shim for enhanced performance and service life. TRQ rotors have a non-directional finish that reduces the break-in period for new rotors as well as reducing vibrations throughout the rotor’s lifecycle. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Product Features
Premium Positive Molded Brake Pads Features and Benefits
Item Condition:
New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to service the front brakes on this 2003 Ford Focus. It's the same process for any 2000-2004 Focus, and we show you how to do the right hand front. Obviously, you always want to do your brakes in pairs. So, the left hand front is the same procedure. Tools you'll need are jack and jack stands, 19 mm socket and ratchet, or a tire iron, T45 Torx driver, a large C-clamp, pliers, and a torque wrench.
Remove the wheel and tire. You can use your lug wrench that comes with the vehicle. If you're using your lug wrench with hand tools, you want to have the tire on the ground, loosen the lug nuts first, then raise and support the car, and remove the lug nuts. You will need kind of a thin-walled socket. Regular impact sockets don't really fit in here. Fast forward as I remove the lug nuts, and then, actually, I realize the wheel is stuck on so I thread two lug nuts back on and use a little bit of an alternative method to remove the wheel.
With the wheel off, we can inspect the brakes. These brakes actually look like they're fairly new. The rotor looks a little rusty but that's just from sitting. You can see in here . I'll spin the rotor a little bit ., on each side are the brake pads and you can see they're nice and thick so they're really new, but I'm going to show you how to take this apart and put it back together.
There are two bolts. I see it right here and another one right up here. Using a T45 Torx bit and the ratchet, and these things should not be too tight. I'll just fast forward here as I remove those two bolts. As those bolts come out you'll actually, and I'll show you a little bit later, want to try and pull them out just a little further because if they stay in they'll kind of grip on to the steering knuckle and make it difficult to remove the caliper. For this wire retainer here, just use a screwdriver and pry it out like that. You can give a pull on your caliper. It should loosen up a little bit. I'm just trying to pull out bolts just a little more. What I need to do is take a pair of pliers, hang onto this bolt, twist, and pull it out a little more. The caliper comes right off. Then pretty easily, with my screwdriver, I can pry the pad away from the caliper. Make sure it's free. Then pry up on the clips or even right here. Take that outer pad out. Then the inner pad just pulls and the outer piston comes off. For the time being, we'll take this little grommet, pull it out of there. Then take the caliper, put it right up there, for now.
To remove the rotor for replacement, take your lug nuts and just thread them back on a little bit. This just protects the studs from getting damaged. With the lug nuts protecting the stubs you want to hit it the rotor right here. You want to avoid making contact with the disc so you don't damage it. You can see it comes loose. Now we can pull our lug nuts off and the rotor comes right off.
Now, you have your caliper. As your brake pads wear, the caliper has to get narrower so what it does is this piston works its way out. You have to reset that before you put your new pads on. You use a nice big C-clamp like this. Put it on your caliper. As I tighten the C-clamp up this piston will go back up inside. Once you force that piston back in, then remove the C-clamp. With that reset we can put this back over here. I'm putting the old rotor back on, but the rotors from 1AAuto will go right on, and fit just like the original. What I usually like to do is take a lug nut and install on there just to hold it in place.
Now, replace your pads. Bring your caliper down. The inside pad has the clip on it. Force that into place. This outside pad slips down over. This wire retainer comes down and hooks on like that. For these here, you want to make sure that they slide back and forth. They don't have to be easy but you should be able to do it with your fingers. You want to slide them out all the way. Take your caliper put it down on. You can bring this down and it locks into place and holds things on. With the T45, I'm just going to make sure that your caliper is in there. Push on the wrench as you start turning it and get the bolts into the bracket. Start that one and then push in. I'll just fast forward here as I just preliminarily tighten those two bolts. Then, using a torque wrench, you want to tighten these up to 30 foot-pounds. Then, we can take your lug nut off. Last, but not least, make sure that this grommet is back in the bracket here.
We put the wheel back on. I'll fast forward here. Put the wheel on, make sure you thread the lug nuts on a few turns finger tight, just to make sure that they're not cross threading, and then tighten your lug nuts up preliminarily, and then you're going to put the vehicle on the ground and torque the lug nuts. You want to torque the lug nuts to 100 foot pounds and using a crossing pattern.
Make sure you pump your brakes. Get the pedal nice and firm before you try and do a road test. Then do stops from five and ten miles an hour before you take your car out on the road.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
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Brought to you buy 1AAuto.com your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. In this video we're going to show you how to replace the front brakes on this 2002 Ford Focus. The same as any 2000 to 2004 and very similar for most vehicles. Tools you'll need are lug wrench or a 19 mm socket and ratchet, jack and jack stands, 3/8 or 8 mm Allen wrench, large screwdriver or small pry bar, and a large C-clamp, some of those sizes may vary.
First of all you want to remove your wheel. If you don't have air tools you'll want to loosen the lug nuts on the ground and then jack up. You can place a jack right here under your body and then use the jack stand to support it. For some reason this vehicle has three different size lug nuts. I've got a 21, 3/4 fits on this and 18 mm fits on that one. Don't really listen to what I say as far as the sizes. Okay, we'll speed up through removing the tire. The lug nuts I believe should be 19 mm on this vehicle. Pull your steering wheel like that. Now on the back you can see that there's some rubber plugs, plastic. Pull those off okay which exposes a Allen screw, one there and also one right up here.
I can see they're an 8 mm or a 3/8th inch Allen screw, socket style. Okay, I took them apart pretty easy. Okay, I'm just going to fast forward through loosening those two bolts. You don't have to pull them all the way out of the caliper. You want to loosen them up and just make sure that they're free of the steering knuckle, so you just kind of turn them counter clockwise and pull them out a little bit to make sure they're coming out. What you may want to do is take a small pry bar or a large screwdriver and just lightly, what you do is pry it out on a caliper.
The caliper comes off. You can kind of get an idea of how good your rotors are by running your finger over them like that and checking for any harsh grooves. If you're unsure any auto parts store can check the run out on them. If you want to replace your rotors it's very easy. This right there, the rotor, very easily comes off. It goes back on. These rotors are fine. In fact you can see my brake pads are all fine. The brakes on this vehicle are fine. I'm just doing the video just to show you. Okay, you get the brake pads out. This inner one out of the caliper. Okay, it comes out. Then this outer one, you may want to use a screwdriver or your pry bar. Pry it out. Okay, and then on the pad if you look and see there's a little line right that. That's your wear indicator. You can see when you look from here, if you can still that little opening then you know your pad is still okay. You can see it on this.
My inner one is slightly more worn, but it's still not all the way into this indicator. You can see this is kind of filled with a little bit of the brake dust. You will want a large C-clamp. You can keep your old pad in there if you're putting new pads on it. What you're doing to do is you're going to push this piston back in; because, as the brakes wear the piston comes out a little bit, so you put the pad on there. Is this clamp large enough? Center it on here. Push the piston back in. Take the clamp off. Take your outer pad and it will just slide down on there some. Some of these pads will come with some lubricant to put on them to keep them from squeaking. Always apply anything. You need to read the directions. Apply the grease as it tells you to. That goes in there. Push the bolts out. Make sure those are sliding freely. All right. Put your caliper back on. You've got your bolt.
Okay, I'm going to speed it up here, especially; because, of the fact that I didn't realize that my angle was so terrible and you couldn't see what I was doing anyways. All I'm doing is tightening up those Allen bolts. You want to tighten those up to about 25-30 foot pounds. We'll put our plastic covers back on and that flips back down. Okay I'll put the wheel back on and you always want to hand start your lug nuts to avoid cross threading them. Now I'm just preliminarily tightening the lug nuts with my air wrench. I'm not tightening them all the way yet. I'm going to wait until I get on the ground to do that. Now here with the car on the ground I'm going to tighten my lug nuts. I'm tightening up to 100 foot pounds. I'm kind of going crosswise, doing the opposite one each time.
Okay, last but certainly not very least here, after you do your brakes make sure that you pump the pedal a bunch of times before you drive the car. This resets the pistons back into the right spot. I'm pumping it quite a bit; because, I did just take apart and put back together the old brake and then do a stop from five miles an hour and ten miles an hour before you road test the car.
We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com. Your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll free 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
