Replaces
This part doesn’t fit a . Select from parts that fit.
1A Auto Lifetime Warranty
Frequently bought together
Part Details
TRQ brake kits are designed to restore your brake system to like-new performance. TRQ brake pads are positive molded, thermal scorched, chamfered, and utilize a multi-layer shim for enhanced performance and service life. TRQ rotors have a non-directional finish that reduces the break-in period for new rotors as well as reducing vibrations throughout the rotor’s lifecycle. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Product Features
Premium Positive Molded Brake Pads Features and Benefits
What are Tapered Bearings and Why Use Them? Tapered bearings use rollers shaped like flat-topped cones and two races angled from the outside in of the bearing. This angle makes the bearing better at handling forces exerted on the bearing during cornering (known as axial load) in trucks and large cars. Your model came from the factory with tapered bearings. Roller ball bearings work well for smaller cars, but replacing a tapered bearing with a roller ball bearing increases wear and failure.
Item Condition:
New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
FREE Shipping is standard on orders shipped to the lower 48 States (Contiguous United States). Standard shipping charges apply to Hawaii and Alaska.
Shipping is not available to a P.O. Box, APO/FPO/DPO addresses, US Territories, or Canada for this item.
Expedited is available on checkout to the United States, excluding Alaska, Hawaii.
Final shipping costs are available at checkout.
Created on:
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet.
Hi, I'm Mike Green, one of the owners of 1A Auto. I want to help you save time and money repairing and maintaining your vehicle. I'm going to use my 20+ years' experience restoring and repairing cars and trucks like this to show you the correct way to install parts from 1AAuto.com. The right parts installed correctly, that's going to save you time and money. Thank you and enjoy the video.
In this video, we're going to show you how to remove and replace the rotors and brake pads on this Dodge Durango; same as any 1998 to 2003 Durango and 1997 to 2004 Dakota. This vehicle had pretty good brakes so we actually just took them off and put them back on just to show you, in case you're wondering why we didn't put any new brakes on. Tools you'll need are jack and jack stands, a 19-mm socket and ratchet or your lug wrench, a T47 driver and ratchet, large flat-blade screwdriver, a hammer, a large c-clamp, and a torque wrench.
First, you're going to want to remove the front wheel. I have the benefit of air tools. If you start with your tire on the ground, you'll want to loosen the lug nuts first, then jack it up, and remove the lug nuts. I'm just going to take them off with my air ratchet. We'll just fast forward here a little bit.
Now, you want to go in behind. I've actually turned the wheels to the left a little bit on the passenger's side here. There's two T47 Torx bolts; one on the side, and then one right on top. Again, I'm going to use the T47 Torx bit. Then take your screwdriver and pry a little bit on the caliper and get it going. Pull your caliper right off.
To get the brake pads out, you'll pull the inner one right like that. To get the outer one out, you use your hammer and you want to hit diagonally and they come out.
Now, to get your rotor off, you'll take your caliper and place it up above. You don't want to just let this hang down because you can rupture your hose; rest it up here or maybe put it on there with a wire-tie or something. Then the rotor just pulls right off.
Put the brake rotor back on; you want to push your piston back in to your caliper. I just use a big C-clamp like this. As you see while I tighten, that piston goes down in to the caliper. I remove the C-clamp. Your inner pad has the clamps to secure just put in to the caliper and push it in. Your outer goes right in, while making sure you have your bolts out of the way, you push them down like that with the caliper right in.
Now, start your bolts back in and, once again, that's a T47 Torx. Push on your bolts and start them. These you want to tighten up to about 35 pounds. That doesn't sound like a lot. It really isn't because what really takes the braking pressure are these big arms. You can see that the caliper squeezes and then the pads push against those. These bolts are just kind of holding the caliper in place. They don't really do much of the braking.
Okay, so now you can see we've got our wheel back on. You want to put the cap on with the lug nuts. I'm just going to use the air wrench to start the lug nuts a little bit. You want to torque your lug nuts to about 100 foot pounds and you should be all set.
NOTE: Make sure that before you drive your car, you get in and pump the brake pedal a few times until you make it feel solid. When you push the piston back in to the caliper you'll need to work it back against the disks. Before you road test your vehicle, just make sure that the brakes are holding the car in gear and then do a stop from 5 mph and 10 mph just to make sure that everything is working before you get it out on the road.
This video was brought to you by www.1AAuto.com. We hope we helped you out. We are your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Feel free to call us, Toll Free: 888-844-3393. We're here for you on the Internet and in person. Thank you very much.
Tools used
