1988-92 Chevrolet GMC Front 14 Piece Steering & Suspension Kit TRQ PSA58773

One of the first things we want to do when we start this job is, of course, to make sure the steering wheel will not be able to spin around and around and around. So, you can do that with something as simple as a bungee cord, just secure it to anything you can, whatever it reaches. For me personally, I'm just going to go right here because it's nice and close. Put it around there. Perfect. That's not going to be able to go around. We don't have to worry about the airbag anymore. Once you've safely raised and supported your vehicle so you can see underneath, you want to remove this plate. If you take out these two bolts, this should swing down, far enough to see right there. Let's use our 15-millimeter socket to remove this plate as well. The next thing we're gonna do is remove this cotter pin here so we can get the nut off. Now, it's time to remove the nut that holds the Pitman arm to the center link here. Use your 22-millimeter. The next thing we're going to use is a pickle fork, and we're going to try to separate this joint right here. If you want to spray down the area with some penetrant, it's probably a great idea. That's separated nice and easy. We can move along. So, now, we got to get this cover off of the steering shaft here. There's a little tab that you'd want to push to try to get around this. Then you should be able to slide it up. If you can't, you can try using a screwdriver. That looks decent. We can see where our little pinch bolt is right here. We're going to remove that, and then we'll get the steering shaft up and away from here.

Now, let's use an 11-millimeter to remove this bolt. Let's go ahead and spray down this area pretty good. Use your pry bar, go in between the shaft and the power steering box, and you should be able to move it. Once you're sure it's moving around pretty easily, we're going to continue on by removing the shaft from the box itself. There we are. That's completely released. Let's move along. Now, we're going to use an 18-millimeter crow's foot to get right down here on this line so we can remove the pair of them. If you want to spray them down with some penetrant, it's probably a great idea. Okay. So, I can see that the line is spinning with the actual fitting. So, I'm just going to try to work that back and forth a little bit. I'm going to spray it again real quick and see if I can get it to break free. I'm just going to take my bar along the top and just try to cause some vibration to see if I can get that penetrant to work its way in between the line and the fitting. Obviously, I don't want to damage the line in any way. If you poke a hole in the line, well, go ahead and buy yourself a new one. There we are. We've got those two separated now a little bit, so it's at least spinning. Let's make sure we put a nice recycling bucket underneath the vehicle to catch the power steering fluid that's bound to come out. Here we are. Got the fluid coming out. We're going to make sure that goes right into the collection bucket so we can recycle it properly. We'll set this aside and we're going to do the same thing to this line right here. There we go. Now, inside the driver's side wheel well, you're going to see three bolts sticking through the frame. Just remove all 3 of these bolts right here using your 21-millimeter socket. If you can't get this one, you could just try to bend this metal a little bit and then, of course, we'll form it back to the way it needs to go.

Let's see if we can finagle the box out of here now. There it is. Next thing we're gonna do is remove this nut that holds the Pitman arm on. Let's just make sure that we've got the right Pitman arm. Looks good. You'll notice if you look inside here, it actually has these little keyways in it. So, just kind of make sure that you're facing in the general direction when you take this off and it should pretty much line up because you really can't mess it up. Here we go, 34-millimeter. Get that lock washer off of there. We'll set these aside. Usually, this is on there pretty good and it feels like it is. At this point, we're going to use a Pitman arm puller, and we're going to separate these two pieces. So, now, we're going to use a Pitman arm puller, and that's the tool that's going to go right over the Pitman arm. It's going to have a little piton that's going to drive down in the center of the shaft and it's going to actually lift up at the same time on the Pitman arm to separate it from the sector shaft. Get that tool on here. Oh, that one came off nice and easy. It's always a good idea to spray them down. It's helpful. Awesome. Now, you just clean up this area, make sure you don't have any gunk or anything like that. Once you've done that, we're going to go ahead and take this piece and we'll get it on there. Let's get our new Pitman arm on here. Like I said, it should line right up with the keyway slots there. That feels great. We have this aiming in this direction. You don't want it aiming towards the box, okay? Make sure you get your locking washer on there. If you want to use a little bit of thread locker, we'll call it your prerogative, but we're using a locker washer. So, you don't have to. Let's get this on there. Now, we're going to torque this nut to 184 foot-pounds.

The easiest way to do that, of course, is to have the arm facing towards the right. That way there, when we tighten it, it's going to have leverage against the ground. Let's clean up the threads on our bolts. And then we'll go ahead and put on a teeny bit of thread locker. I've got the thread nice and cleaned up. I'm going to put in one of the bolts. I'm going to go for the top one. Get it right up in there. Looks good. Now, when I get my box up, I'm going to hold it, and I'm gonna try to get at least one of the bolts started before I grab the other two. Let's get our box up in here.

I'm twisting that bolt while I'm trying to wiggle this around. Okay. Start it in. I'm going to start in the other two and then we'll snug them up. Now, we're just going to use our 21-millimeter. We'll zip these down so they're bottomed out, and then we'll torque them to manufacturer specifications. Now, let's torque the bolts to 100 foot-pounds. Now, if you bent this out of the way, just make sure you bend it back. Let's get this off of here. Okay. I got the nut off. I'm going to leave this on here. It's going to help protect us. Now, we'll just pull down on the bar and slide it over that. There we are. Slides right on. Start it on there. Let's go ahead and snug this up now. Now, we're going to torque it to manufacturer specifications, which is 40 foot-pounds. That's torqued. The next thing we need to do is make sure that our castle nut winds up with the slot for the cotter pin. Once you have it lined up, go ahead and put it in, and lock it down. If it doesn't line up, you need to continue tightening until it does. All right. So, I've got that nice and lined up. I've got my cotter pin here, I'm gonna slide it right through. And then, of course, make sure that I peen it over so there's no way that the cotter pin can come out because this is what makes sure it's locked in so it can't come unsecured. Now it's going to be time to get the steering shaft onto the power steering box here. Just kind of line it up. You're going to notice that the steering box right here has a flat area. On the inside of the shaft, it's also going to have a flat area. Once you line that up, this should slide on fairly easily. If you need to give it a couple of loving bonks with a hammer, well, that's probably pretty probable as well.

All right. I don't want to go too far. I want to just take a peek inside that hole and it looks like I need to go a little bit further. Looks about right. I've got my steering shaft bolt here. As you can tell, I cleaned off the threads and I put on just a teeny bit of thread locker because it's a good idea. There it is. All right. That's snug. Now, we're going to torque it to manufacturer specifications, which is 22 foot-pounds. So, it's a good idea to replace your O-rings on here. I just put on some nice new ones. Once you've done that, you just use a teeny bit of the power steering fluid, make sure that you lubricate them, and then we're going to go ahead and install them into the vehicle here. Let's start this one in there. You might need to wiggle the line around a little bit. All right. That one's bottomed out. Now, we're going to make sure we snug it up with our crow's foot. And then once we've done that, we're going to do the same thing to the other line. Click. Once you have it nice and snug, you want to pay attention right down along here to make sure the line is resting directly against the box. If it is, stick your screwdriver in and just kind of move it away. You want to have a teeny bit of a gap, that way there, it's not directly rubbing and potentially causing a hole over time. We're going to get this line started into the box. Just give it a couple of nice turns. Make sure it flows in nice and easy. Now, we're going to use the wrench to try to tighten it up. If you feel like it's getting stuck or it's hanging up in any way, it might be cross-threaded. In which case, you'd want to back off, check those threads, and make sure they're good. Okay. That one went right in. That feels pretty good. I'm just going to check it with the crow's foot.

Make sure you don't have too much pressure on your lines or your hoses in any direction. There's no kinks or crimps. This looks really great. Make sure you put this cover back on here. It should slide right over, and then over that line. That should lock it in. Make sure it cannot move around. Now, we're going to use a nice funnel, and then we're going to go ahead and fill up the system and then we'll bleed it. Make sure you use your manufacturer-specified fluid. Now that we have this, so it's almost full to the top. Okay. So, now that we've got plenty of fluid in here, we're actually just going to make sure the front wheels are off the ground a little bit, and we're going to turn the wheel completely to one side and then very slowly all the way to the other side from point to point, maybe three to four times, and we're gonna come out here and we're gonna watch for some air bubbles. Once we notice that the air bubbles have dissipated, we're going to start up the engine. We'll let it run for a few seconds. We'll turn it off and we'll recheck the level. Make sure the level's good and there's no aeration, and then we'll continue on with the bleed. Let's go ahead and put the cover on just to make sure no contaminants get in. Now we're just going to clean up the area. Anywhere that you see power steering fluid, make sure it's nice and clean. So that way there, when we run it and if we happen to see any fluid anywhere, we can determine where the leak might possibly be.

So, now, we're just gonna check the level. Looks like it's right about at the add line, but it also is at the full cold line. So, it's important to pay attention to the fact that your engine's either cold or warm. If it's cold, you want to be at approximately the cold line. If it's warm, you want to be much higher up approximately at the hot line. This looks decent. So, I'm just going to go ahead and run it now for a little while and make sure all the air burps out of it. Turn the wheels side to side. Okay. So, this looks great. I'm looking at where all my lines are connected into everything, I want to make sure that there's no leaks. If there's any leaks, we need to make sure we fix them now. This looks wonderful. We're going to run it for a little while, let it get up to temperature, and then we're going to recheck the fluid while the vehicle is hot. Now that the vehicle's nice and hot, let's go ahead and pull this up and out of here. Just check that fluid level. As you can tell, this is still a little bit low. So, I'm going to add some more. While I've got it open, we're going to take a peek inside and just double-check to make sure there's no air bubbles. If there's air bubbles, you need to continue bleeding the system before you take it for a nice long road test. Okay. So, we've got that nice and topped off now. We'll close this up. Make sure everything's nice and connected. There's nothing hanging around. This looks great. Let's take it for a road test. All right. Let's get the plate up here. Let's go ahead and get our shield up here.

Safely raise and support your vehicle on the frame so your suspension can hang. Now that we've safely raised the vehicle, let's remove this by using a small pry bar right in this little slot. Now you can see your 22-millimeter lug nuts, remove those. And now we'll just do the same thing to the other side. It's a great idea to spray down the area. We're going to let that sit. Obviously, if your tie rod ends look like this around the adjustment area, you're going to want to do the whole thing. If for some reason you aren't, you're going to remove these two bolts and then you'll turn this out and that will break this free.

So now that I know that I am replacing the assembly as a whole, I'm going to turn the wheel all the way to the left. That's going to give me the most area to get to that inner tie rod and stud. To start, I'm going to use my 18-millimeter half-inch drive, come right up here on the outer tie rod end nut, if you need to give it a couple of bonks, make sure you get it on there. Let's loosen this up. I'm just going to take that nut and put it back on there, just a few threads to keep myself safe.

So now we're going to break the outer tie rod end free from the knuckle right here, you can use a large hammer. You could also use a pickle fork with a hammer. If you're going to go with the hammer method, just go right here on the knuckle, it should want to break free. Make sure you have the nut on there and your safety glasses. All right, that broke free, awesome. Let's remove that inner tie right end nut. For this part right here, we're going to use one of these pickle forks. Come right in through in between the inner tie rod end and this right here, going to hammer it in. Start that on just a couple threads here. Okay, that's separated. Let's start the removal process here. Now we can move along to the next step.

So one of the first things we need to do when we get to the bench is, of course, we'll put a little bit of copper Never-Seez on our threaded area, you can go right on the tie rod ends, and maybe inside the sleeve if you wanted to. Once you have done that and you have those prepped, we're going to take a measuring tape and we're going to measure from one end of this all the way to the other end. Take a quick measurement here, and take note, looks like for me it is 16 and seven-eighths. So, what I am going to do now is I'm going to get this started onto both these tie rod ends at the same time, that is called timing the tie rod ends. We'll screw it in, and then we'll keep measuring until we get to 16 and seven-eighths, which is my measurement.

Start this on, just a couple of threads here, okay. Now I am going to do the same thing for this one, just grabbing the first thread is the hardest part usually. Now that I have both those started, I'm going to try to screw this on. Okay. So that looks pretty decent. At this point, what I want to do is make sure that I have the inner tie rod end lined up with the new inner tie rod end. That looks good, and I am going to make sure that this is aiming up in the same direction as the other one. Just like that.

And the next thing that we want to do is get these bolts so they are lined up just like that. So you can see where the open area is, that is exactly where you want the bolt to be when you crimp this down. That's how it is going to hold the threads the best. Just snug this up, and we're not going to completely tighten this up yet because, of course, we're still going to have to give it a little twist when we get in the vehicle. I just want to kind of make it so it can't flop around on me. That's pretty decent. Just snug, time to get that started in there, it's important to pay attention to your inner tie rod end which has this little blank area of the shanked end, then you have the outer tie rod end that has the threaded area pretty much the whole way. Started. Start in the outer as well, let's go ahead and bottom these out. Let's torque both these nuts to 40 foot-pounds.

So now you are going to look for your cotter pin hole. And that should be a hole that goes through the stud. It needs to line up with the castle nut here. I'm going to take one of my cotter pins and just feel around, that feels like it is almost about to go through. Something that's important to remember is if the cotter pin does not go through, or it is not lined up, you don't want to loosen it so you can put the cotter pin through. You just want to tighten to the point that you can get the cotter pin locked in. Do the same to the other one, that one I can see that it is not lined up. Just going to give it a teeny bit more. Put the cotter pin through, of course, lock it down.

The next thing you want to do is make sure that your tie rods are straight so when you're looking at 'em, you want the stud to look like it's coming straight out. If it isn't, just go ahead and give it a little twist, and then double-check the other side to make sure that that one is good. If for some reason when you have one straight and the other one is turned completely like that, that's going to cause premature wear of the tie rod ends. Make sure they are both straight, and then you can torque these down to 14 foot-pounds. We're just going to double-check the tie rods now that those are snug. That looks straight, this looks straight, perfect. Let's get the wheel on, and get it to the alignment shop.

Time to get the wheel up on here. Start on one of those lug nuts. Now we're just going to start on all the lug nuts, we'll bottom them out and then we'll torque them to 120 foot-pounds. Torque these to 120 foot-pounds. That's torqued. We'll get our cover on here, awesome. And now we'll just do the same thing to the other side. The next thing you would want to do is go ahead and get yourself an alignment.

Safely raise and support your vehicle on the frame so your suspension can hang. Now that we've safely raised the vehicle, let's remove this by using a small pry bar right in this little slot.

Now you can see your 22-millimeter lug nuts; remove those.

And now we'll just do the same thing to the other side. Let's get this little plastic cover out of here. To get out the sway bar links, more than likely, you're gonna have to drop your sway bar. To do that, I would spray right inside this hole right here, try to spray the top area of that bolt, and then from the other side, spray this side as well. While you're at it, why don't you do the other side of the vehicle at the same time?
To get this one out, obviously, it's going to be a little bit difficult. You have minimal room here. Go and try to use some sort of pivoting extension or whatever you might have to get up in there. You could also use a 10-millimeter wrench if you have all day.

Let's do the same to the other side. I'm just gonna use a swivel socket to come through this hole. I want to try to find the bolt under there. I'm gonna hold that and then I'm gonna remove the nut on the top.

Okay, so that one broke. So now we're just gonna get the bar off of here. We can move this, try to get this separated real quick.
So now we have the sheath. This is a metal sheath that goes over this metal part of the bolt. Odds are that's gonna be completely rotted together. The best thing to do here would be to cut it. If you were to look right down along here, you can see exactly what I'm talking about. They left plenty of room for moisture to get in there. Let's carefully heat up the area. You obviously want to be careful for any rubber such as your axle boot, or even your ABS wire.

Now we have that nice and warm, let's go ahead and hit it was some penetrant spray. Let's clear the area, let that dissipate for a minute.

Let's get the rest of this off of there.
It doesn't look like the bushing wants to be coming out at the same time here. Get this out here, get that out of there.

Now when you're replacing the sway bar links or just the bushings, you want to obviously do those as a pair and when they're apart is the best time to do it. So now when we're getting ready to put this on, it's important to make sure you have the smaller bushing on the bottom side, that's going to make it much easier to get up through the hole in the bottom of the control arm.

Get that and the bushing right up in there. Now we're gonna go with the other bushing that has the washer on it like that. Slide it down, get your shank, slide that on there, you've got your other washer, a little thing on there. Slide that like that. This is gonna go through the bar. Now we'll grab our bushing with the washer, slide that right on there and get our locking nut, make sure you put that on as well, obviously.

Now we're gonna do the same to the other side and then we'll jump into putting back on the bushings. Now we're gonna take our 13-millimeter wrench, come through the bottom of that control arm right through the hole and try to hold the bolt. And we'll come up here with our socket and we're gonna snug this up and pay attention to the bushings for how much they try to squish down.

I'm just going to analyze these bushings real quick. What you want to look for is to make sure that they're actually touching up against the bar. They have no room for movement, and you also want to make sure that they're not necessarily squished down like a pancake. If you've done that, you're probably going to damage the bushing. All you want it to be is enough so it touches here, here, here, and then if you could see in there, of course it's touching as well. We'll do the same to the other side. Let's start all of our bolts in here that hold the sway bar bushings in.

We're gonna snug these right up. All right, make sure those are nice and tight and then do the same to the other side of the vehicle.

Time to get the wheel up on here. Start on one of those lug nuts. Now we're just gonna start on all the lug nuts. We'll bottom them out, and then we'll torque them to 120 foot-pounds.Torque these to 120 foot-pounds. It's torqued. We'll get our cover on here. Awesome. And now we'll just do the same thing to the other side.

Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts, and the best service on the internet. Hi. I'm Mike Green. I'm one of the owners at 1AAuto. I want to help you save time and money repairing and maintaining your vehicle. I'm going to use my 20 plus years' experience restoring and repairing cars and trucks like this, to show you the correct way to consult parts from 1AAuto.com. The right parts installed correctly. That's going to save you time and money. Thank you and enjoy the video.

In this video we are going to remove and reinstall the radiator fans in this 2001 Ford Taurus. The fans didn't need repaired in this car. I'm just doing the video to show you how to take them out and put them in. The only tools you'll need are an 8mm socket and ratchet and a flat blade screwdriver. We're going to disconnect the battery here using an 8mm socket. You'll want to use a regular screwdriver. There is two tabs, you'll want to pull out on the tab, and pull up on this fuse box. This will just go up and out of the way a little bit. You'll see there is an 8mm bolt right here. You can see right down there is a plug for your radiator fan. All you're going to do is pry out lightly here and pull that plug off. You want to pull these pins. You can see here's one of the pins out. Pull these pins out of the fan shroud. Okay. We'll kind of speed through that process of unplugging the fan and removing the harnesses from the clips, and then finish out removing the 8mm bolt. Get this up out of the way. Pull this fan up. That just comes out of the bottom. Lift it out.

With this fan I've done the same thing. I already loosened this bolt. I've already unplugged it. I'm just going to take that bolt off. I'm going to pull it out. Then I'm going to slide over to where this other fan came from. It's going to be a fight with all the wiring. Slide it up and out. Slide this on over. It has two feet that have basically a cross pattern on it. If you look down in you can see right there, that cross right there, that's where one of the feets goes. Then that cross right down there is where the other one goes. You put the fans down in, and you kind of just work them back and forth a little bit. You find where they go down in, and then that 8mm bolt lines up. Then tighten up that bolt. Tighten up this 8mm bolt. Reconnect the wiring harnesses for the fan. Make sure everything's routed correctly. Put the fuse block back into place, reconnect the battery, and you should be all set. The second fan, slide it down in, just pull the wiring out the way kind of. The same thing on the feet. This goes down in here into place. Tighten up your 8mm bolt. This back into place now, and then the pins connect them. Put the harnesses back into their places. Connect the battery one more time. You should be all set.

We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts, and the best service on the internet. Please feel free to call us toll free at 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the internet and in person

Once you have your vehicle safely raised and supported, we're gonna remove this center cover right here. This will expose those lug nuts. You can see six lug nuts. We're gonna remove all six of them using a 22-millimeter socket. Just gonna take one lug nut, leave it on there, just so the wheel can't fall off on me. Remove the wheel. So, now that we can see everything, we're just gonna hit this with some penetrant right down along here. I like to get up along the top, and right along in here. Obviously, we're gonna be removing the outer tie rod end from the knuckle here, because we're gonna have to remove the knuckle. Anytime you're doing front-end work, you're gonna have to get an alignment. So this is gonna be where your adjustment is for your toe. We need to spray down this whole area. This is gonna help the alignment person down the line. Awesome.

Now I'm just gonna turn the wheel a little bit here, and that's so I can get to this slider pin and this one right here, because we're gonna remove the caliper and hang it safely. Use your 3/8 socket. It's an Allen head. Slide the caliper off of here. And now we're gonna hang it from something, using something as simple as a bungee cord, or a hanger, or whatever you have, just as long as you're not putting any pressure on this rubber flex hose. Just put some penetrant on this area. And then I'm gonna put that nut on there, just a couple threads. That's because next, I'm gonna take my little hammer here, I'm gonna give this a couple bonks. When it comes down, I wanna make sure that nut catches it, and keeps me from potentially getting hurt.

So now, right along here, you're gonna notice there should be some push clips. This one's actually missing, but theoretically, you would probably pull that out of the way. And then you can see right here where your ABS wire is gonna connect in. You need to disconnect that by pulling right here. Slide that up and away. Next, we're gonna get this out of its holding spot, take out this bolt right here, pull all these out, and remove that as well. So now, we're gonna use a little forky tool, or you can even try to stick a screwdriver or pry bar behind here, and we're just gonna try to pull this off of the frame. This is what's holding it in. Remove this mounting bolt. Now let's grab this cable. Carefully pull it off these clips. Now we're gonna remove this nut. The bolt comes through from the bottom, so you're gonna have to hold the bolt head, and then remove this nut. Let's get this rotor off of here.

Next thing we're gonna do is remove this 36-millimeter axle nut. Behind there, there's a little washer. Get that off of there as well. The next thing you wanna do is spray this area. Let that seep in there, and then you're gonna take a punch and your hammer, and go right in the center, and give this a couple bonks until it breaks free. I can see it moving. That means I'm good. You definitely don't wanna use the hammer right on the axle, just in case you damage the threads. Let's just wrap this up so it's not hanging and potentially getting damaged.

The next thing we wanna do is come down to the lower ball joint, and you're gonna see this little cotter pin right here. It's kind of just a locking mechanism. It keeps the nut from turning. Remove it. Now we're gonna remove that nut. Just put that back on there, a few threads. Now it's time to remove the upper ball joint nut. We're gonna do the same thing with that cotter pin, get it out of there, and then remove the nut. So, now we're just gonna turn the knuckle all the way to the right. I'm gonna come through here with my wrench, and see if I can get this nut to break free. Nice. We're gonna remove this one completely. The next thing I'm gonna do is take my hammer and I'm gonna carefully try to bonk right here on the knuckle. Okay, this whole area right here is the knuckle, but I wanna get as close to the ball joint stud as possible so hopefully, it will break free and drop down a little bit. There we are we are. I'm just gonna press through this axle a little bit. Awesome.

So now, for this next part, it's super important to make sure that your ball joint nut is on there a few good threads. You wanna make sure that there's no way that this can fall down or come off on its own, because the next step is actually gonna be one of two things. You can either bonk directly on the knuckle, like we did with the upper, and hope that it vibrates free from the stud right here, or, of course, you can go with a pickle fork. The reason why I didn't use this pickle fork up top was because obviously, I'm not replacing that ball joint. If I use this, it's gonna damage the ball joint, and you have to replace it at that point. Okay. So, that broke free. This is looking great. I'm gonna hold this up. Remove the nut. And now I'll just carefully slide this right off of here. The next thing we're gonna do is take our wrench and hold under here on the nut side, and then we're gonna use the 18-millimeter socket up on top, and we're gonna remove the bolt side. Now I'm just gonna use a piece of scrap that I happened to find laying around, just so I can hold this axle up and out of my way. Remove all these bolts. We'll recycle these. Remove the lower ball joint.

Now it's gonna be time to install our lower ball joint here. It's gonna slide right inside there. If you wanted to use some Never-Seez, you could, but it's not necessarily needed. When you slide it through, you're gonna line up all those holes, and then you can take your bolts and your locking nuts. These are locking nuts. You can tell because they're oblong. Slide it right up and through. We're gonna do the same to all. So now, we're gonna use our wrench. Hold the bolt on the bottom side and we'll snug up these nuts. Just gonna bottom it out. Now we're just gonna make sure these are tight. I like to tighten them to approximately 100 foot-pounds.

Now it's gonna be time to get the knuckle back up on here. Just gonna start it into the bearing. Slide it over the stud on the lower ball joint. I'm gonna lift it up, and then I'm gonna start on the nut for the lower ball joint. That should hold it so it can't fall down. Take a break. Now we're just gonna bottom out this lower ball joint nut. This should wanna slide up, and the axle should slide through the wheel bearing. Now we're gonna go ahead and put this down through, and we're gonna start the upper ball joint nut. Let's put a bar over the top of the control arm and under the frame, so that way there, we can press down on this control arm. Start it right in there. Now I'm gonna take that upper ball joint nut, gonna start it right on that stud. Now we'll use our wrench and we'll tighten it up. So now, we're gonna turn this till it bottoms out. Okay. That's pretty good right there. Let's move back down to the lower ball joint nut here. We're gonna torque that to 94 foot-pounds. Now that's torqued.

The next thing you wanna do is pay attention to the castle nut slots, and you also wanna look at the stud of the ball joint to find where that cotter pin hole is. You line up the slot with the hole, which if you were to come over here, you'd be able to see. If you look right here, you can tell that it's almost lined up. The problem is, is to torque it to where it was supposed to be, it went a little bit past. So, the next thing you have to remember is you definitely don't wanna loosen, because then it will be under torqued. What you actually wanna do is continue tightening until it lines up with the next slot. Little bit more. That looks great. Let's grab our cotter pin and put it through there. Now, these are locking pins. It's super important to make sure you have it bent over completely. That way there, you're 100% sure there's no way this nut can come free. So, the next thing we would do is torque this upper ball joint nut. The torque for it is 74 foot-pounds, but as you can tell, the axle's kind of in the way. I'm just gonna use my wrench. I'm gonna make it nice and tight, and make sure the slot lines up with the hole.

Yeah. That's nice and tight. I'm gonna look for the slot. Okay. Looks like it comes through for me, and it comes through in that direction. Make sure that there's no way that this locking clip cotter pin can come out. Next, we're gonna get this ABS wire off of here. This part's gonna go right under here. Runs up along these. And then, of course, you have the mounting area, and then where it clicks in. Let's make sure we get all that together. Your little push tab. You definitely wanna make sure your ABS wire is secured, because if it's moving around in any way, there's a potential for it to get damaged, and you definitely don't want that.

Now, be careful when you're tightening this, because it will wanna turn, and if it turns too far, you could potentially put a tug on your wires. The wire's not rubbing on anything. This looks good. There we go. Make sure all the push clips are in. This looks great. The next thing you wanna do is make sure that your mating surface between your hub and your rotor is clean. Once it is, go ahead and put that rotor on there. I like to start on one of the lug nuts so the rotor can't move around, potentially fall off. It also helps keep rust from getting in there. Let's get our caliper up on here. Push those sliders. You should feel them kind of wanna latch into where the hole is. We're gonna start them both in before we fully tighten either of them up. Okay. I bottomed out. Tighten a bit more. Let's get the tie rod end in here.

Now we're gonna bottom this out, but don't tighten it too much, because the torque is only 40 foot-pounds. Okay, so we torqued it to 40 foot-pounds. The next thing you wanna look at is the slotted area to the hole, and make sure you line those up in a tightening manner. You definitely don't wanna loosen, once again. Next, you're gonna put your washer on the axle and then, of course, the nut. Let's bottom this out. You don't wanna over-tighten this, because you'll mess up the bearing, so we're just gonna bottom it out, and then we'll torque it to manufacturer specifications.

Okay, so the next thing we need to do is torque this axle nut. But a great way to do that is to grab the wheel, put it back on here. We're gonna put on all the lug nuts, and then we'll get it down so it's touching up against the ground. We'll torque the lug nuts and the axle nut at the same time. Now we're gonna torque the axle nut to 165 foot-pounds. Torqued. Torque your lug nuts to 120 foot-pounds. Torqued. Let's grab that center cover. Make sure you line up the holes with the lug nuts, or else you're gonna know it when you go to bonk it on.