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Product Features
TRQ drivetrain kits are manufactured using premium raw materials to restore original performance. Each TRQ drivetrain component is designed to be a direct, maintenance-free replacement to the stock unit. To extend the service life of your drivetrain, TRQ recommends replacing wheel hubs, bearings, and constant velocity (CV) drive axles at the same time to ensure even wear of components and improved ride comfort. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
CV axles are designed to transmit the power from your vehicle's drivetrain to the wheels while being able to flex and pivot to the demands of the steering and suspension systems. If your vehicle is making clicking noises at lower speeds or when making turns, it may be time to replace your CV axles with our 100% brand new assemblies.
Our steering and suspension components are pre-greased and sealed for long life and do not require the extra maintenance typically required by greaseable versions.
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New
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WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike Green. I'm one of the owners of 1A Auto. I want to help you save time and money repairing or maintaining your vehicle. I'm going to use my 20-plus years experience restoring and repairing cars and trucks like this to show you the correct way to install parts from 1AAuto.com. The right parts installed correctly: that's going to save you time and money. Thank you and enjoy the video.
In this video, we're going to show you how to remove a rear axle on this 2004 Chevy Trailblazer. This is pretty indicative of any Chevy or GM product that has a C-Clip rear axle, and when I say C-Clip, you'll see what I mean in the video. You'll need various metric and standard sockets or wrenches, ranging in size from 5/16's inch to 19 millimeters with the ratchets and the extensions, a breaker bar or a pipe for leverage for some of those bolts that are tighter than others, catch pin, jack and jack stands, flat blade screwdriver and two M10 by 7 centimeter bolts, as well as a 3/8's drive ratchet with an extension.
For the rear tire, the lug nuts are 19 millimeters. If you don't have air tools, you want to start with the vehicle on the ground, loosen the lug nuts, raise it, support it with jack stands, and then remove the lug nuts. We'll use some fast forward as we remove the rest of the lug nuts and the wheel.
We want to use a screwdriver. What I'm doing is pulling out on the caliper. That just helps to get it off the brake pads. You remove two bolts, and then remove the caliper. On this vehicle, those are 14 millimeter bolts. Pull up on the caliper, put it up and out of your way, and then you can just pry out the brake pads. You actually can skip this step. You can just pull the bracket off. Then you want the pad bracket, two 18 millimeter bolts on this vehicle. I'm going to use a piece of pipe, along with my ratchet, and the pipe actually just gives you some extra leverage. Then on the lower bolt on this vehicle, it has a clearance issue, so I'm going to put on my 18 millimeter wrench. Then I'm going to hook another 17 millimeter wrench on to it and pull down. Then, finish off taking those bolts out. Now, the bracket comes off, and then hopefully, your disc will just pull off. On this vehicle, it doesn't, but the vehicle has two threaded holes, so you insert some M10 metric bolts and use your wrench. You tighten those bolts up, which forces the disc off of the hub.
Now, you want to turn your drive shaft with your vehicle in neutral until you have a good angle at that bolt right there. Using a 5/16 inch socket, remove this bolt. As you remove this bolt, you want to hold this pin up here, pull that bolt out, and let that slowly slide down. That will allow you to actually push your axle in, which then allows you to pull out a C-clamp. It should just fall down here. I need a magnet. That C-clamp comes out, which now allows you to pull out slowly your axle.
Now, put the axle back in. You want to lift up on it so it doesn't drag against your seal. You just move it around a little bit, push it in, just has to find its way on the inside. Here, what you're really hoping is nothing has moved, so we're going to take our C-clamp, and the side that has a groove near the center is the one you want to put towards the center. You just put that on to the axle that's pushing out through right there. Then you can actually push the axle back by hand. Make sure you have this shaft nice and clean. Put it up in with the hole at the bottom. This is where you're hoping that these gears didn't move around at all. It would appear that they did just a little bit. I'm just going to line it up with my finger. It goes in, push this in, start it into place, and your axle's locked back in place. As that's going in, I'm just going to hit it with a little dab of Loctite. Being greasy and stuff, it's not going to stick that well, but that's okay. You want to tighten this up probably to about 8 to 10 foot pounds, which is tight with this little wrench. That's good.
Now we're going to get back into cleaning everything up and putting it back together, so I just wipe down the inside as much as I can, get as much dirt and everything out of there as possible. Now clean up and wipe down your rear end cover, and there's a little rectangle there that's the magnet. Make sure you get that wiped off really well. Right there displaying it, you can see I clean it up better. On this one, you do reuse your gasket, and I put just a little bit of sealant on the cover just to help with some of the crustiness from the rust. Now, we'll put our cover up there, start it with a couple bolts, then start all the bolts by hand, and then tighten them preliminarily with a wrench after that. Now, we skip forward. You want to torque these bolts to about 12 foot pounds. It's not very much, but it's enough to seal it. You don't want to over-torque it, because you'll get leaks because you warp your differential cover. About 12 foot pounds, I tighten them using an opposite pattern, and then I just go around one by one and just make sure they're all tight.
Now, we're going to refill the rear end. There's a plug right on the passenger side. Use a 3/8's ratchet with an extension, remove that plug, and then fill it with 80w-90 gear oil. I use a little tube; it helps get the bottle in the position so that you can fill it easier. Once you've filled it and the fluid starts dripping down, put your plug back in, tighten it up. You don't have to tighten it incredibly tight, but get it nice and snug, and then wipe down all the grease off of the rear end so you can check for leaks later.
Now, I'm going to put the brakes back together. If you want to see this in regular speed, just check out our other videos for the Trailblazer rear brake installation. You can see I've got both a new backing plate and new brakes on there. If you want to see those, just check out our other videos on the whole process for that. We'll get through that.
Very important, you've had your brakes apart, you obviously want to torque your lug nuts on there properly. You want to pump your brakes afterwards, make sure that you get your brakes reset and make sure that they're working properly before you test drive the vehicle. Torque the lug nuts to between 100 and 120 foot-pounds. I use a crossing star type pattern, and then you can put your cap back on. Always make sure after you've had your brakes apart, that you pump the pedal a bunch of times, work the pressure back up, and make sure you work the brake caliper pistons back into place.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com-- your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet.
Hi, I'm Mike Green. I'm one of the owners of 1A Auto. I want to help you save time and money repairing and maintaining your vehicle. I'm going to use my 20 plus years' experience restoring and repairing cars and trucks like this to show you the correct way to install parts from 1AAuto.com. The right parts installed correctly, that's going to save you time and money. Thank you and enjoy the video.
In this video, we're going to show you how to remove and replace the front wheel bearing hub on this 2004 Trailblazer. This is the same for many 02' to 09' Trailblazer, Envoy, Bravada, Rainier, Saab 9-7X, as well as Isuzu Ascenders. Tools you'll need are various millimeter sockets, a breaker bar or pipe, if you need some extra leverage. I actually didn't need the extra leverage on this vehicle, but I do show you how to use it, flat blade screwdriver, wire brush, a large c-clamp to reset the pistons in the caliper, torque wrench, 35-millimeter socket, which is something that most toolboxes don't have, but you do need that 35-millimeter socket and then jack and jack stands.
Start by prying your cap off. That's a 19 millimeter and if you don't have air tools, you want to start with the wheel on the ground, loosen the lug nut, then raise it, port it with jack stands and then remove the wheel and the tire. I'll just fast forward taking off the rest of those lug nuts and then removing the wheel and tire.
Now either pull or using the steering wheel, turn your wheels, so you have easy access to the back of the brake calipers. Now, we're going to check the condition of the brakes. Now, I spin this, you'll the rotor move. Okay. Then right to the right there, there's actually your pad. As you can see, there's not that much life left and it's not looking well on the outside either. We're going to remove the caliper, which is removing a bolt up here and a bolt down here and then after that, we're going to remove the caliper bracket, which is two large bolts, 18 millimeter one here and one up here.
The bolts on the caliper, relatively easy, 13 millimeter, use a small wrench. We'll just speed it up here as I remove those two bolts. Okay, the caliper comes right off. You can put that over here. Okay. These are 18-millimeter bolts for the caliper bracket. You're going to want a breaker bar, which is a bar to give you extra leverage. Okay. As you can see, it actually come apart pretty easy. If you don't have a breaker bar like this, you just have a ratchet, you can put a piece of pipe on to give you extra leverage and pull it easy on the pipe and it should have come loose.
When you're all the way up, you can just take your pads off. Take your screwdriver, which should pretty easily pry out. All right. You can see this one. That little line down the middle is the wear and tear. It's actually just about at the end of its life.
We'll fast forward again as we remove those two 18-millimeter bolts that hold that caliper bracket. Okay, that comes off. Then your discs should just come off. If your discs don't come off, there are threaded holes and you need to use some bolts. What you do is you put the bolts in there and the bolts crack against the hub to push them out. Okay. These rotors are pretty crusty looking so I am going to replace them using a 35-millimeter socket. If you don't have an impact wrench, what you'll need to do is, you'll do this at the beginning, you pull that cap off your wheel and then with the big breaker bar and a pipe, you'll loosen this hub nut. Because I have an impact wrench, I can do it this way.
When you're replacing the hub, you don't want to go just hammering away on the axle because you can damage your CV joint, but most of the time, if you just give this one good whack, you'll see that it's broken loose. Basically, just watch the relationship of your axle to your hub when you give it a good hit. Okay and it moved just fine. Just a note, I've yet to have a GM car, where just hitting it with the hammer once didn't break it free.
Right in behind there are three bolts, one here, one up there and then there's one around the back side as well, right down there. Now I get to those bolts. I'm going to take an 18-millimeter socket with a short extension. Okay, put it right on there. I'm going to use the poor man's method. I've got my ratchet and keep the pipe for leverage. Okay. Now I'm going to pull nice and easy and actually these come apart pretty nicely.
Now I'm going to speed up as I loosen the other two and remove those three bolts. Okay, your lead comes out. Okay, follow it around and we'll clip back here, push with the screwdriver, push on the other side, and push that out. Okay, and pry these right out. Now I'm going to really speed through here. All I'm going to do is follow the ABS lead up and pry out the connectors. One note is to check your new hub because that will tell you kind of how the connectors come apart, whether or not you need to pry them out of the frame or just open them up, so that you can put the new lead in.
This last connector with a tab right beside here, go in, lift up, and pull that off here. Okay, turn to the side, that out, off. All three of my bolts are off and my harness is disconnected. Just take a hammer. Okay. It all pops off. You need to get this metal shield off. Okay, get the metal shield off by using a combination of tap it off with a hammer and there's your hub. Take a wire brush here. Just clean off some of the scale. Okay, put that back on and a new hub from 1A Auto, exact same thing as the old one. Take the harness and put it back in place, work it onto the CV, push it on, take one of the bolts, put it through here, move the back end plate and start it into the hub. Grab the other two bolts.
I'm just going to speed it up as I reconnect that harness and route all the clips. It's very important to clip it back into place as it was originally, keeps the ABS harness from rubbing against anything and possibly damaging your ABS brakes.
Now we're going to put the torque on these three bolts to 90-foot pounds. I'll fast forward a little bit as I torque the other two bolts and again, I said I torqued them to 90-foot pounds. We're going to put our hub nut on and we're just going to ... we're not torquing it right now. We're just pulling the CV axle into the hub. Here, I'm going to fast forward through putting the brakes back together. If you'd like to see this in real time, just check out our video for the Trailblazer brakes and do please keep watching because I do go through torquing the center nut on the hub, as well as some other important information about what you need to do after you've had your brakes apart.
With the tire back on the ground, I'm going to torque the lug nuts to between 100 and 120-foot pounds, kind of just using a crossing pattern. Now here, I'm going to tighten that lug nut to 103-foot pounds. Very important after doing brake work, always pump your brakes many times and then before you do a road test, make sure the brakes hold the vehicle in gear and then do a stop from five miles an hour and ten miles per hour before hitting the brakes.
We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com-- your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet.
Please feel free to call us toll free, (888) 844-3393. We're the company that serves you on the internet and in person.
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