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TRQ brake kits are designed to restore your brake system to like-new performance. TRQ brake pads are positive molded, thermal scorched, chamfered, and utilize a multi-layer shim for enhanced performance and service life. TRQ rotors have a non-directional finish that reduces the break-in period for new rotors as well as reducing vibrations throughout the rotor’s lifecycle. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
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Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and the next time you need a part for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to do a front break job on this 1997 Buick LeSabre. We show you the right side; left side's the same. We recommend you change your breaks in pairs. This video is the same for the '93 to' 99 LeSabre. as well as the Park Avenue, even the Bonneville, Olds 88 same vintage. You'll need new pads and rotors from 1AAuto.com, 19 millimeter socket and socket wrench or your tire iron, a pry bar or a long screwdriver, a large C clamp, a 3/8 Allen key tool or a socket, some grease, jack and jack stands, and a torque wrench.
We're going to fast-forward here. Remove the center cap. If you don't have the benefit of air tools, you'll want to start with the vehicle on the ground, loosen the lug nuts first, then raise and secure the vehicle, and remove the lug nuts, wheel, and tire.
So we'll do a general inspection of the brakes. We got the outside pad, the inside pad, and there's a bit of uneven wear we can see when you look through here. So we might run into a sticking caliper. When it comes down to the rotors, you are going to want to run your finger along them and check them. There is a bit of a ridge here that can cause pulsations, but we're going to go ahead and replace them.
The calipers are held on with two bolts. Use a 3/8 inch Allen, and this has quite a bit of rust, so we're going to knock this one in. So, as you saw, I used a hammer to kind of tap the Allen key in, and then it should come out fairly easily. If it doesn't come out as easily as it did there you can use a hammer and give a couple of good raps to the Allen key, and it should loosen it up. I want to be able to separate the caliper off the rotor, and in order to do that, I'm just going to pry it up. I'm going to reset the piston inside the caliper with a clamp; you could also use a pair of water pump pliers.
As we tighten the clamp down, it pushes the piston back into the caliper. I'm going to push out the 8 millimeter bolts that held the caliper on so that we can lubricate them. We are using a screwdriver to push it out. Sometimes you may need to use a hammer if they are frozen up too bad to tap them out. Get a wire brush and clean them up a little bit. Then use a little bit of anti-seize.
With the rotor off, and as we put the brakes back together you'll notice we're putting in new breaks; it's just a good time to do it. If you want to see a more detailed video of how to do this, check out our other videos for the Buick LeSabre front breaks. Outboard pad we're going to slip in just like this. The little tabs are going to fall into place. And then the inboard pad, these clips are going to go inside the caliber and the piston. Then just slide it right back over to your rotor and line up your bolt holes. Okay so I'm going to speed up as I put the bolts in, and if you notice, we had a little trouble putting the caliber on; make sure the bolts are pulled back and out so they don't contact the caliber bracket as they go in.
But at this point use that 3/8 Allen wrench and tighten those right up. Then you straighten things back out, take that lug nut off, put your wheel and tire back on, put the lug nuts on by hand first, then tighten them preliminarily. One hundred foot-pounds is the torque spec for lug nuts.
Whenever you've had the breaks apart, just make sure you go in and pump the brakes a bunch of times. Make sure you have a nice firm pedal before you road test the vehicle.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show how to service the front brakes on this 2000 Buick LaSabre, pretty much the same for any 2000 and 2005. It ends up this vehicle has very good brakes on it so we do just take them apart and put them back together for you. New brakes are available at 1AAuto.com.The tools you'll need are jack and jack stands, 15mm and 19mm sockets, ratchet with a pipe or breaker bar for some extra leverage on some of those bolts, large flat blade screwdriver, wire brush, some grease, a large C-clamp and a torque wrench.
On this LeSabre, you want to remove this center hub cap. Just pull firmly and you want to loosen the lug nuts. If you don't have air tools, you'll want to loosen your lug nuts with the wheel on the ground then raise and support the vehicle and then remove the lug nuts and the wheel the rest of the way. I'll fast forward here as I use a 19mm socket with an impact wrench and remove the lug nuts and the wheel and tire and then just turn the suspension so I can get a good look at the brakes.
It would appear that the brakes have been done recently on this vehicle. I can tell because here's the metal of the brake pad, here's the brake pad itself and then here's rotor and you can see there's a good probably 3/8 of an inch of pad there, which is plenty of life. Then on the outer pad, it's same thing. It's nice and thick. For the rotors, you want to try and do an inspection, run the back of your fingernail along them and you'll feel very, very small grooves but you shouldn't feel any large grooves. Then the condition of the rotors up here looks pretty good, a little bit rusty but not too bad, still nice and thick. It looks like these brakes are good but we'll show you how to take them apart and put them back together just so you have the information.
To get the brakes apart, first you're going to remove two 15mm bolts, here and here. You should be able to use a 15mm socket with a ratchet and these should come apart with some force but they should come apart pretty easy. I'll speed it up here as I loosen the top one and take both of those bolts out and I'll show you them in a minute. The bolts are actually the items that the caliper slide on, as well. So, I'll show a little close-up to you. These are slides. When you take them apart you want to note their condition. These probably should be cleaned up and put a little bit of grease onto them. We'll speed it up here again as I just finish removing the upper bolt out of the top. Take a large screwdriver, put it right in here, and pry out, and that actually forces the piston back into the caliper a little bit. You can see I use a screwdriver to pry out on the caliper a little bit and that loosens it up enough so I can get the caliper up and off. Then I hang it up on the strut. I'll show you that right there. Brake pads, really easily, just pry out. As I said, there's plenty of life left in these pads. For the back one, do the same thing. It pulls right out the back side.
If you did need to replace the rotor, you'd want to remove these two bolts here. I'm using my socket again and a ratchet, use a breaker bar or a piece of pipe. A piece of pipe helps you get some extra leverage and just push nice and firm until you start getting them loose. I fast forward here as I use the ratchet and pipe to loosen up the top one and then take both of the bolts out. Now your rotor comes right off.
Now, we're going to show you how to put the brakes back together. As you can see, there's a nice new hub on this vehicle that actually turned out to be what the car needed so we actually did a hub replacement and you can see that video on our other videos. We decided to do this brake video to help you out as well while we were doing the hub. The rotor goes back on. Before you put this caliper bracket back on, take a wire brush and make sure these are all nice and clean. In particular, you're cleaning the grooves where the brake pads sit and slide. This part goes between the rotor and the steering knuckle. The bolt goes to the steering knuckle first then into the caliper bracket. Start my lower one. Start my upper one. Speed it up here as I just preliminarily tighten those two bolts up. Now we'll torque these to 80 foot-pounds.
Bring your caliper down. You'll need a large C-clamp and put it into the piston and this just resets the piston all the way back into the caliper. Just make sure it's on the flat part of the back side, that it's not on the hose or anything. As you tighten it up, it forces the piston back into the caliper. I'll just speed it up as I back the C-clamp off and remove it. Put it down, and make sure your hose isn't twisted. You might want to pull these grommets in a little bit, put your caliper down on, and make sure those aren't bunched up. Here are my slides. I cleaned them up, and put a light coat of grease on them. The lower one came out with this sleeve so I took that off, cleaned it all out, put a little grease on the inside and the outside of it. Put our brake pads back on. The back one just slides right in. This front one you push down in a little bit diagonally. Put it in. Put the top one back in first. Start it a little bit. Now do our bottom one. I'll fast forward again as I just preliminarily tighten those bolts. Torque these to about 50 foot-pounds. I apologize for the low volume. Fifty foot-pounds is what you want to torque those to.
Speed it up here as we put the wheel and tire back on and then just the lug nuts by hand and then tighten them preliminarily with an impact wrench. Torque your lug nuts to 100 foot-pounds using a star pattern. We'll speed up the tape as we torque up the lug nuts.
Anytime you take the brakes apart, make sure that you pump your pedal a whole bunch of times until it gets firm and then do test stops from 5 and 10 miles an hour, make sure the brakes are working correctly before you road test your vehicle.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Hi, I'm Mike Green. I'm one of the owners of 1AAuto. I want to help you save time and money maintaining and repairing your vehicle. I'm going to use my 20-plus years' experience restoring and repairing cars and trucks like this, to show you the correct way to install parts from 1AAuto.com. The right parts, installed correctly: That's going to save you time and money. Thank you, and enjoy the video.
Okay, this is part two of a two-part video, installing the hub in this '98 Grand Prix, and again, this hub fits all kinds of different GM vehicles, Buick, Cadillac, Pontiac, Chevy, Olds, everything from transport minivans to Cadillac Eldorado. Here's the list of tools you need for the Grand Prix. Really what you need is basically metric sockets from 13 millimeters up to 19 millimeters plus the large hub nut, which is anywhere from 32 to 35 millimeters, and then the rest of the stuff, and plus throw in there some penetrating oil and a hammer and rubber mallet.
Okay, so here's our new hub from 1AAuto, okay. Not only is it prettier and shinier, it's all in one piece, as it should be, as opposed to three separate pieces. If you kind of use your imagination here you can see that this is all the same. It's going to bolt up the same, and when I put it in there it's not going to make a big groaning grinding noise. Okay, so one thing I do prior to installation is put just a little bit of anti-seize on my bolts. Okay, if you just use some kind of penetrator, whatever, it just helps. Most likely this car won't outlast the new hub, so the next person, if anybody else has to take it apart, they'll be able to get it apart easy. If not, then I just sleep better knowing that I did it right.
Okay, so I'm ready to put my hub back on. Notice I put my three bolts kind of back in place, because as I slide the hub in, I'm just going to start them. Want to make sure we put this in, and I'm going to hang it up here with the middle one. Okay, and then the hub, okay, this piece you want down at the bottom. Okay, so put it, kind of barely start on here, and basically stick your I stick my thumb through, push the axle some. Push my connector through. Push the hub on some more. Kay, make sure my oops. Make sure my harnesses come through okay. It's not stuck on anything. Okay. Now, it'll be easiest to start one of these bolts down here. Start it with your fingers.
On the other side, push the hub in, start the bolt with your fingers. Okay, and now I'm just going to swivel the steering back and forth, and tighten up those bolts. Then I'll slow down the motion when I'm torquing them. Okay, now I'm ready to torque, I'm going to set my torque wrench at 65 foot pounds. I've got these kind of tightened up fairly evenly, so I'm just going to torque them one time.
Okay, so now that's parallel, so I'm going to put that, start that back in. Now, if you are working with hand tools, you can put the brakes back together, put it on with a wrench. I'm going to use an impact wrench to protect my hand. I'm going to tighten up. But I'm going to use a torque wrench as well. On, use an impact wrench. Again, you can wait and do this, if you have only hand tools, you can put your disc back on, put your brakes back on, have the assistant hold the brake pedal for you if you do this by hand, but I'm going to use a torque wrench. I'm just going to tighten it up. I'm not going to tighten it up all the way with a torque wrench. I'll tighten it until the torque wrench sounds like it's starting to work hard.
Kay, put my disc on, and I'm actually just going to put a lug nut on just to hold it in place when, while I put the caliper on. We'll cut this down. Kay, now that I have the caliper on here, I'm just starting to bolt the caliper in. I'm just tightening it up some with the impact wrench. Just to get them started. Okay. Then I've got my impact wrench set at 75 foot pounds. Okay. Take the lug nut off. Okay, just going to reach back in here, okay. I'm going to clip my harness back onto the bracket. Plug in my ABS harness.
Okay, so, as I found out when I put the wheel on to put the car down, because that's usually how I do this, but the socket was too big to get inside the wheel. I have a person in the car holding the brake down, and now I'm going to torque it, okay. First I'm going to go to 90 pounds, and then further, and now I'm going to back off. Okay, and then go to 90 again. Kay. Okay, now you can put your wheel on. I just start the lug nuts. I tighten them a little bit with the impact wrench. I don't tighten them all the way, because you want to lower the car down, and then you want to use a torque wrench. Torque them to 75 foot pounds, and then reinstall your little lug caps. When you reinstall those lug caps, just do it by hand, and then you're all set.
We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this helps, the video helps you out and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the front hub on this 2000 Buick LeSabre, pretty much the same as any 2000, 2005 Buick LeSabre and obviously we sell new hubs at 1AAuto.com.Tools you'll need are Jack and Jack stands, 34, 19, 15 and 13mm Sockets. You'll need Ratchets and Extensions and you'll also need a Breaker Bar and possibly a Pipe for some extra leverage on some of those bolts and a large Flat Blade Screwdriver, a Hammer and Torque Wrench. On this LeSabre, you want to remove this center hub cap. Just pull firmly. If you don't have the benefit of air tools, you want to use a 34mm Socket and a big Breaker Bar, probably the pipe. With your vehicle on the ground, loosen up this center knot. Loosen up here first. You want to loosen your lug nuts with the wheel on the ground then raise and support the vehicle and then remove the lug nuts and wheel the rest of the way. I'll fast forward here as I use a 19mm Socket with an Impact Wrench and remove the lug nuts and the wheel and tire, and then just turn the suspension so that I can get a good look at the brakes. To get the brakes apart, first you're going to remove two 15mm bolts here and here. You should be able to use a 15mm Socket with a Ratchet and this should come apart with some force but it should come apart very easy.
I'll speed it up here as I loosen the top one and take both those bolts out and I'll show you them in a minute. The bolts are actually, the items that the calipers slide on as well so I'll show a little close up to you. These are slides taken apart. You want to note their condition. This probably should be just clean up and put a little grease on to them. I'll speed it up here again as I just remove, finish removing the upper bolt out of the top. With a large screwdriver, put it right in here and pry out and that actually forces the piston back into that actually forces the piston back into the caliper a little bit. You could see, I use a screwdriver pry out on the caliper a little bit and that loosens up so I can get the caliper up and off and then I just hang it up on the strut. I'll show you that right there. Now, your brake pads very easily. Just pry out. Remove these two bolts here. I needed my Socket again and a Ratchet. Use a Breaker Bar or a piece of pipe. A piece of pipe helps you get some extra leverage and just push nice and firm until you start to get them loose. I'll fast forward here as I use the Ratchet and pipe to loosen up the top one and then take both the bolts out. Now, your rotor comes right off. Here, I'm applying some penetrating oil to the center hub knot as well as the three knots that hold the hub to the steering knuckle. Here, I'm removing that nut with an Impact Wrench.
Again, if you don't have air tools, you'll want to loosen up this knot when your tire is still on and the vehicle is on the ground. You want to make sure that your axle is free from your hub. You're going to give a one good hit with a hammer. You don't want to be on it continuously with a hammer because you could damage your CV joints but one good hit and just watch the axle in relation to the hub, if it moves then your axle is free and is no problem. Just give it a good wrap and just watch. Like I said, the axle in relation to the hub and it moved so it's nice and free. I can actually move it just with my thumb. Now, three bolts hold the hub to the steering knuckle. You could see one down there and one up in there. Generally, you want to use 3/8s drive tools because they're a little narrower and they can get in here better. There's the bolt here, there's one down here and then over on the other side, there is a bolt right down in here. This is your ABS lead, you want to use a screwdriver, pry this clip away. Pull that off and then just push up on this clip here and disconnect it. I'm going to fast forward here as I take and loosen up those three bolts and you should be able to get them with a good sized 3/8s Ratchet. You want to just keep applying even pressure. Don't jerk the wrench or anything. Apply even pressure and they'll come loose and what I'm doing is actually turning the steering knuckle back and forth so I can easily get to all three of the bolts. Once you get up to this point, you need to push. I've got pushing it with my thumb on the axle and then pulling the center wire out. You want to take this off and put right there.
New hub available on 1AAuto.com, you want to put in there. You want the sensor kind of towards the rear towards where it goes in and this goes on so that this tab is in this position over here. Put it on and again, just reach through with your thumb, push on the axle so that you could push your sensor connector through. Pull that connector through this bracket up and on. I'm going to get that up on here. Pull this connector; pull this back and in there. Kind of a matter is getting the grooves all lined up and in. Tug on your ABS sensor a little bit, make sure it's through cleanly. Push that on, the bolt. These ones' the easiest lugs that put it through and start it into the hub. I'm going to speed it up again as I start all three bolts in. You want to make sure you start them all in first, then usually tighten up the rear one until it snug and then you tighten up the other two until they're snug. The last step of tightening is to torque them. Make sure the leads through correctly. Put right on to that bracket and then plug it in. I'm going tighten these bolts to 60 foot pounds, starting with this rear one. I'm going to reinstall this hub knot just preliminarily. Rotor goes back on. Before you put this caliper bracket back on, take a wire brush and make sure these all nice and clean. In particular, you're cleaning the grooves where the brake pads sit and slide.
This part goes between the rotor and the steering knuckle and that bolt goes to the steering knuckle first, then into the caliper bracket. Start my lower one. Now, start my upper one. I'll speed it up here as I just kind of preliminarily tighten those two bolts up. Now, we'll torque these to 80 foot pounds. Put it down and make sure your hose isn't twisted. You might want to pull these grommets in a little bit. Put your caliper down on, make that those aren't bunched up. Here are my sides, I cleaned them up, put a little light coated grease on them. That's a little one came out with this sleeve so I took that off, cleaned it all out, put a little bit of grease on the inside, on the outside of it. Put our brake pads back, it just kind of slides right in, the support one. Now, push down in a little bit diagonally. Top one back in first, start it a little bit and our bottom one. I'll fast forward again as I just kind of preliminarily tighten those bolts. I'll torque these for about 50 foot pounds. Again, apologize for the low volume, 50 foot pounds is what you want to torque those to. Okay, speed it up here as we put the wheel and tire back on and then just start the lug nuts by hand and then tighten them preliminarily with the Impact Wrench. Now, you want to torque the center nut to a 118 foot pounds. Torque your lug nuts to a 100 foot pounds using a start pattern. Okay, and we'll speed up the tape as we torque up the lug nuts. Anytime you take the brakes apart, make sure that you pump your pedal a whole bunch of times until it gets firm and then do test stops from five and 10 miles an hour, make sure the brakes are working correctly before you road test your vehicle.
We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the internet and in person.
