Replaces
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Authentic Timken brand products supplied and packaged by Timken. In some cases, Timken will source parts from other high quality suppliers such as SKF and Koyo. These parts are subjected to the same testing and quality standards as all Timken products.
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New
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to be showing you how to replace a rear wheel and hub bearing assembly on this 2006 Chevy Impala. We'll be showing you the right hand or passenger's side. The procedure is the same for the left hand or driver's side and it's the same for any 2006 to 2012 Impala as well as 2004 to 2008 Grand Prix and a whole slew of other GM vehicles. You'll need a new wheel bearing and hub assembly from 1AAuto.com; and 10, 13, 14 and 19mm sockets with a ratchet. You'll need a breaker bar or a pipe for some extra leverage, a T30 Torx bit, flat blade screwdriver, a hammer, a large C-clamp, wire brush and of course, jack and jack stands.
Now, use your 19mm socket and remove the lug covers and on this wheel or this vehicle you'll remove the wheel cover. Then, if you don't have the benefit of air tools, you'll want to loosen the lug nuts with the vehicle on the ground, then raise and support the vehicle and remove the lug nuts, wheel and tire.
On the back side of the caliper there are two 14mm bolts to remove. I'll fast forward as we remove those. Once you finished taking those bolts out then the rear caliper actually comes right up and off. You can put it up top on the strut. You want to make sure you hang it so it doesn't affect the hose and then you can just pull your brake pads right off.
On the back side of the bracket that holds the caliper, there are two 13mm bolts and you'll probably need a breaker bar or maybe a pipe for some extra leverage to get those going. We'll remove those. As you remove the bolt just pull that bracket right up. Now, use a screwdriver, and hold the lugs, and you'll need a T30 Torx bit. You'll probably need to style it you can hook onto a ratchet handle like and remove the screw that holds in your brake disc. Now, if you give the brake disc a couple of good hits with the hammer, you'll be able to take it off.
Now, you can look through one of the holes and you'll see that there are four bolts that hold the hub in and you'll just go right through with a breaker bar. Those are 10mm. I'll fast forward here as we remove those four bolts. With a small screwdriver, go in from behind and pry the tabs on the connection and pull the connector off. Now, use a hammer. Actually, I'm using two hammers, one to put on there and one to hit the other hammer with. We do this in a little control, what you'll want to do actually is keep one of the bolts in there just loose so that when the hub and the backing plate come off they don't drop like that.
Now, there's a small pin. Use a hammer to get it started moving and then just go to a small screwdriver and push it the rest of the way out. With a large screwdriver or a pair of pliers and remove the spring. Then, you can feed the emergency brake cable back through the bracket. That little piston came out, we're just going to take that piston put it back in where it belongs. Now, there are two T30 Torx screws that hold the backing plate. Once you have those screws out, you can put that bracket aside and pull the backing plate up and off the hub and then the ring up and off the hub.
You can see here, on the right, is the new hub from 1A Auto; on the left, the original. The new hub has the correct connection and everything and is going to install just like the original. Use a wire brush and clean out the area where the hub mounts. Then, you can use some grease, we're using a little bit of white grease but bearing grease or anything like that will do to ease getting the hub back in. You can see how we have the backing plate oriented and put that ring on and put your hub through and you want to make sure that the connector on the hub is facing the same way as the opening in that backing plate. Then we want to put the E -brake activator in and figure out that it's a little bit easier to do it without that arm in. You want to put that in place and then just work the emergency brake shoes into place correctly and seed everything down. Now turn it all over and line up the hole in the E-brake activator with the hole in the backing plate and then put that bracket on. Again the hole where the cable goes in faces the same way as the connector. We'll fast forward as we put both those T30 bolts back in and tighten them up. Now, put the actuator lever back in. Here, we're going to reinstall the cable, put it onto the lever first, pull it back, down in and then press and get it locked into that bracket. Then once you have it locked in there, reinsert the pin. Now, put the spring back in place and you'll want to use a pair of pliers. We're using a locking vice grip style pliers to hold onto that spring, pull it and put it back in place.
Now, take the whole parking brake and hub assembly and put it up against the flange, turn that hub, so that you can see through and line up one of the holes, then basically load one of the 10mm hub bolts into the wrench, feed it through and in and start it in. We'll fast forward as we put all of those in and then we'll tighten them up and you want to tighten them up to about 45 to 50 foot-pounds each. On the back side, reconnect your ABS connector.
Before you put the disc back on, you'll probably need to adjust the emergency or parking brake a little bit and you can see what we're doing there with the screwdriver, we're turning that wheel. Then put the rotor back on. If you need to adjust that parking brake a little bit more, you can take it back off and adjust it more. Put the screw on that holds the rotor in place and tighten that. Put the caliper bracket back in place and start the two 13mm bolts in. We'll fast forward here as we tighten those up. We're going to tighten those to 75 foot-pounds.
Now, we're going to put our brake pads back in place, we put a little grease on them just to make sure that they can still go back and forth on those slides. If you want more information on how to do your brakes, you can check out our other videos. We'll put our caliper back in place and start in the two bolts, 14mm bolts that hold it in place.
We'll keep the pace going as we put the wheel and tire on and put on the lug nuts, tighten them up preliminarily. With the vehicle back down on the ground, we'll tighten and torque the lug nuts to 100 foot pounds using a star pattern. Once they've been properly torqued, we'll put the wheel cover back on and tighten the caps up.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace a rear hub on this 2003 Chevy Monte Carlo. It's the same part and process on these Monte Carlos from 2000 to 2007. We show you on the passenger side, but the driver side is the same procedure. The items you'll need include a new rear hub from 1AAuto.com, a 10mm, 13mm, and 19mm socket and ratchet, T30 torx bit and a ¼ inch wrench, flat blade screwdriver, hammer, wire brush, jack and jack stands, and a torque wrench.
Start off by loosening up these lug nut caps and removing the hub cap. If you don't have air-powered tools, you're going to want to loosen the lug nuts while the vehicle is on the ground, then jack it up, and then remove the lug nuts the rest of the way. If you do have air-powered tools, it's fine to remove it while it's up here. Just pull the wheel off.
Next, remove these two 13mm bolts that hold your caliper into place. Now pry your caliper off and set it aside. Pull the rotor off. Now, through these holes on the hub, you can see there's 10mm bolts in there. There's four of them, and you just have to turn this to the one you want to remove. We'll just fast-forward as Mike removes all four of those.
Next, you want to remove your e-brake shoes. To do this, you want to just pry this out on the clip here into that slot, and then you can just remove the slot from the other side. It's a small little tab a round part and it's got a pill in it. Make sure that stays inside of it, and then you just want to pry off your e-brake shoes. This does take some time. Just use a flat blade screwdriver to angle it down and around the hub. Pry out on the spring, disconnect it, unhook it from the other side, and then unhook this lever from this cable, and pull that down and out.
Then, to unhook this cable, you need to pry out on this clip. And it actually helps to just push from the other side while you pull on it, and it will pull free. Then you want to remove these two T30 bolts. Unfortunately, the easiest way to do this is by using a T30 bit and a ¼ inch wrench just over the bit, and just loosening it and removing them that way. It does take some time, but it's the only tool we could find that would actually fit in there to remove them. Now, hammer at the hub while pulling on it, and it will pull free.
On the left is the old hub; on the right is the new one from 1A Auto. You can see they're identical, and they'll fit exactly the same. Clean out the inside where your hub goes using a wire brush, put your hub into the backing plate, and push the hub into place. Replace the first bolt by hand, and just hand tighten it so that it holds the hub into place. We'll just fast-forward here as Mike replaces the other bolt along the top of the hub, and then tightens both of those up. Push this back into place, replace your adjuster, and replace those two lower bolts on the hub. We'll just fast-forward as Mike does this and tightens those up.
Now replace this bracket and those T30 Torx bolts using your wrench and your T30 bit. Re-clip the cable back into place. Push the lever back into the adjuster, re-clip the cable to it, clip on the spring, and then pry the spring back into place and into that hole. Then torque those four 10mm bolts to fifty foot-pounds. Now push your brake shoes back down into place, use your flat blade screwdriver and just pry it back around and behind the hub. Push this cap back into place, and into that lever on the inside of the adjuster.
We want these shoes to go down off of that clip inside of there, and those two 10mm bolts go on the top and down into the two slots on either side of the adjuster. Make sure those slots are lined up with the caps on the brake shoe. Now, you want to just adjust the adjuster with a flat blade screwdriver, and you can tap it with a hammer. You can turn that, bringing the brake shoes in, and you want just a little bit of resistance with your rotor. Then put the caliper back into place, and hammer it on. Then replace the bolts on the back of it, and tighten them up.
Make sure you push your sway bar link back into place and replace that 18mm nut. Replace your wheel. Then replace the lug nuts and tighten them preliminarily. Then lower the vehicle and tighten them the rest of the way, and then torque each of these to a hundred foot-pounds in a crossing pattern. Replace your hub cap, and tighten up these lug nut caps.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
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