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Part Details
Our control arms are designed to be direct replacements for the original factory parts. They are 100% brand new and require no modifications for installation. No special tools are required because all of the bushings come pre-installed.
Our steering and suspension components are pre-greased and sealed for long life and do not require the extra maintenance typically required by greaseable versions.
Item Condition:
New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Chromium (Hexavalent Compounds), which is known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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Brought to you buy 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Hi, I'm Mike Green. I'm one of the owners of 1A Auto. I want to help you save time and money repairing and maintaining your vehicle. I'm going to use my 20 plus years' experience restoring and repairing cars and trucks like this to show you the correct way to install parts from 1AAuto.com. The right parts, installed correctly, that's going to save you time and money. Thank you and enjoy the video.
In this video, we'll be replacing the rear control arm on this 1992 Chevy Lumina; same process for a whole bunch of different GM cars, Buick Century, LaCrosse, Regal, Impala, Lumina, Monte Carlo, Cutlass Supreme, Intrigue, and Grand Prix. This is basically the same for any standard suspension car. As far as tools go, you need some various metric size wrenches from 15 to 24 millimeters and as you'll see in our video, we battle some rust so if you're going to be battling rust, we recommend Breaker Bar or Impact tools. Okay, obviously to start you're going to want to raise your car. These cars have a little plate in the middle of the rear suspension that you can use and that's where you can place your jack. Then you want to place your jack stands either on the pinch weld or on the brace right next to the pinch weld of the body. Coming in from behind, as you can see, New England winters have taken their toll on this old warrior. That control arm is actually totally broken, so what we're going to start out doing is we're going to coat these rusty, crusty bolts, both the rear one and the front one with lots of penetrant. We'll let those sit for a while. We're going to remove this wheel because removing the wheel is going to give us really easy access to this nut right here. Okay, so no doubt we're replacing this because of rust.
Down south you have a different problem, you don't have to worry about rust, but your bushings will wear out. Symptoms of this problem is if you're driving and you apply the brakes hard, if you have bad bushings your rear control arms will wander and your car will kind of pull. So, if you're in the South, you want to check these bushings and see if they're all dried and cracked, if they are then recommend replacing the rear control arms. All right, I'm going to try just an impact wrench on there and see what happens. Most likely this bolt's going to break, so I'm going to get this off whether it's by using the Impact wrench or try the breaker bar and if that doesn't work I'll Sawzall it off. Believe it or not here, the Impact wrench was successful, so if you got a car in the Northeast, I highly recommend having air tools for this repair. It's not impossible to do it by hand, but the air tools make it that much easier. Again, down south if you if you don't have the rust problem then this stuff will probably come apart pretty easy for you. Okay, there's half our problem. For the front here, I'm not as fortunate. I can't get the air tools onto it, so I'm going to do it by hand. I'm going to put, this is a breaker bar, nice long bar and I'm going to put it on you always want to put it on the nut end. Basically, you also always want to do you want to pull away from metal and you want I'm pushing on this one and you want to have a controlled pull because at some point the socket could slip off or a bunch of other things could happen and you don't want to just whack your face or your hand or anything else. I'm not going to hold this, because I think that bolt is frozen in there well enough, I'll just watch and see if this starts moving, but I'm going to-
Okay, the bolt did start moving. At least I'm getting good pull on it also, pulling down helps because I can use my body weight. This is actually moving. I'm going to have to- All right, mostly likely I am breaking this bolt but maybe not. It's actually turning kind of easily. I'm coming to the end here and unbelievably enough, I didn't break the bolt so I can use that to put it back together. Now excuse my French here a little bit while I pry this bolt out. Shaking that and it all comes out this car is rough. Okay, then there's the other half of my problem. Here's my whole part with some obvious issues. Here's my new part from 1A. Same thing, actually a much thicker piece of bar, or this is hollow and just kind of thick sheet metal. This is actually a closed rod. The larger end, make sure it fits nice and snug in there. You have two different widths. The bolts go in from the inside of the vehicle went through, and then this, the bolt goes in from the inside put this up in here and it's about a quarter inch away from being in there which is okay.
What I'm going to do is then take this nice big breaker bar, give myself some leverage, push the suspension forward and push that in. Just because it's habit from restoring cars put some Anti Seize on here, but most likely this new control arm's going to outlast the rest of the rust on this car anyways so it'll probably never be apart again, but if somebody ever does have to take it apart for some reason, the Anti Seize will help it. I'm going to put the bolts on and then I'll use on this back one, I'll use the Impact to tighten up some and then I'll tighten them up to about 60 foot pounds of torque. Before torqueing, what I've done here is this jack is actually pushing up and it's taking the weight basically off the lift so all the weight is on here. You want to have the weight; you want to have the suspension in the right position, before you torque the bolts up. Like I said, I'm torqueing at about 60 foot pounds. I've got my real bolt tightened into the point where the bolt's not twisting anymore, so now I'm just going to torque it to 80 pounds. Now we'll put on the wheel, torque those nuts when it's down on the ground and it'll be all set.
We hope this helps you out, brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Please feel free to call us toll free 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the internet and in person.
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace a trailing arm on this 2003 Chevy Monte Carlo. It's the same part and similar process on these Monte Carlos from 2000 to 2007. We show you on the passenger side, but the driver side is the same procedure. The items you'll need for this include a new training arm from 1AAuto.com, 15mm, 18mm, 19mm, and 24mm socket and ratchet, a piece of pipe for leverage, 18mm and 24mm wrench, an adjustable wrench, a torque wrench, jack and jack stands, and a hammer.
Start off by loosening these 19mm lug nut caps, and then pull your hubcap free. Remove these 19mm lug nuts. You want to loosen these while the vehicle is on the ground, raise it, and remove them the rest of the way. If you have air-powered tools, you can remove them entirely when the vehicle is entirely in the air. Once the lug nuts are removed, pull your wheel free.
Spray penetrating oil on this bolt and the bolt up here at the top of your controller. Then just remove this lower bolt. The easiest way to do that is using a 24mm wrench. Once the nut is removed, just break that bolt free. We use air-powered tools to do this, but you could also just use hand tools with a piece of pipe for leverage. Just keep twisting the bolt until it loosens up.
Once it's loosened up, you can just hammer it out the rest of the way and then just pull that down. Using an 18mm wrench, just loosen up this top bolt. When you get it loose enough and the trailing arm lowers, you can then access these two bolts and this bolt right here. All three of those are 15mm. We'll just fast-forward as Mike removes them.
You want to put this somewhere where there's a gap. You can put the bolt down in, and then, just using a hammer, hit the bolt out. You may have better luck and it may just pull out. If yours looks like ours, this is probably how you'll have to do it. You'll need the bolt out of the other one as well.
On the bottom is the old trailing arm and bracket; above it is the new one from 1A Auto. You can see they're identical, and they'll fit exactly the same. Take the new trailing arm and bracket and push the bolt through. Replace the nut on the other side. Push the bracket up into place and replace those three 15mm bolts. Just tighten those up. If you used air-powered tools, go around again with just a ratchet and socket and make sure those are tightened up as tight as you can get them.
Put the lower end of the trailing arm back into place, push the bolt through, and then replace the nut on the other side. Just tighten that up, and for right now you are just tightening this preliminarily. Do the same thing with the top bolt. Now you want to lower the vehicle down onto jack stands, putting all the pressure on the suspension and then tighten up these two control arm bolts the rest of the way.
Replace your wheel, replace the lug nuts, and tighten them up. You want to tighten those while the vehicle is on the ground, and then you want to torque each of them to 100 foot-pounds in a crossing pattern. Replace your hubcap and tighten up those lug nut caps. Then you're all set.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
