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Install Tip: When replacing steering components, have a professional alignment performed afterwards. This ensures proper tracking and even tire wear.
Our steering and suspension components are pre-greased and sealed for long life and do not require the extra maintenance typically required by greaseable versions.
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WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
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This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the outer tie rod end on this 2008 Dodge Ram 1500. This is for a non-mega cab truck. We're doing the passenger side, but this information will be exactly the same on the driver's side.
Here are the item's you'll need for this repair: 22-27mm socket, 1/2 breaker bar, ratchet, socket extensions, breaker bar, 24mm wrench, torque wrench, jack and jack stands.
With the vehicle on the ground, using a 22mm socket and a breaker bar, break the lug nuts for your wheel loose. These chrome lug nuts tend to be swollen, so make sure your socket's on there good. Once your lug nuts are loose, raise and support the vehicle with a jack and jack stands.
This wheel and tire assembly, being a big off road tire and 20 inch wheel, it's going to be real heavy, so we're only going to bring it up a little bit when we take it off. Remove the wheel and tie from the hub.
The tie rod end is located at the end of the inner tie rod and bolts into this spindle. We're going to use a 24mm wrench to break the lock nut loose just a little. Use a 22mm deep socket and a ratchet to remove the nut on the bottom. Going to hit the side of the spindle to release the tie rod. After a few good hits, should be able to knock it out of the spindle. Remove the tie rod end from the spindle and unthread it from the inner tie rod.
Here we have our old part that we removed from our 2008 Dodge Ram. Here we have our new tie rod end from 1AAuto, part number 1ASTE00402. As you can see, they're very similar, some minor differences in the aesthetics, but the actual stud to go into the spindle is correct. They have the same size threads. They're the same length. Our new part comes with a castle nut and a cotter pin, which is more secure than the factory flange nut.
Some symptoms of a bad tie rod end can be play in the steering wheel. Could also cause an unusual tire wear pattern or you can feel that you may need to use a lot more force than you're used to when trying to turn the wheel. If your vehicle is suffering from any of these symptoms and you've deduced that it's the tie rod end, this new part from 1AAuto is going to go in, direct-fit, just like your original equipment, and fix you up right.
Thread the new tie rod end onto the inner tie rod. We'll reinstall it into the spindle. Start the new castle nut on, tighten it down with a 27mm socket and ratchet. Torque to 45 foot-pounds, then add an additional 90 degrees. Install the cotter pin, then the long tab down under the bottom of the bolt. Cut the short end off flush.
Using a 24mm wrench, tighten the lock nut on the inner tie rod back against your outer tie rod end. Start your lug nuts by hand. Tighten the lugs as far as you can. Remember to bring the wheel down evenly and always tighten in a cross pattern. Once the lugs are as tight as you can get them with the tire in the air, put partial weight of the vehicle on the ground by lowering it off your jack stands. Torque your lug nuts to 135 foot-pounds in a cross pattern. Bring the vehicle for a professional alignment.
Thanks for tuning in. We hope this video helped you out. Next time you need parts for your car, please visit 1AAuto.com. Also check out our other helpful how-to and diagnosis videos.
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Okay, friends. To get started on this vehicle, the first thing we wanna talk about is safety. You want hand and eye protection. Secondly, you wanna make sure that you raise and support the vehicle by the frame so the suspension's hanging. Next, let's remove our lug nuts. Remove your wheel. Now that we have the wheel off, we have a nice, clear view of our tie rod ends. Just a quick note, whenever I'm replacing tire rod ends, I usually like to do them as a pair. With that said, let's break free our jam nut.
Here we are. Let's get our locking cotter pin out of here. There we are. Let's go ahead and remove this nut. Put that back on a couple of threads. The next thing we're gonna do is separate the tie rod end from the knuckle itself. You can do that with a couple loving bonks with a hammer. Unscrew the outer tie rod end and make sure you count the threads as you come off, one, two, three, and so on. Twenty-two for me. Time to put on the outer tie rod end. Make sure you put on as many turns as you did to remove the original, one, two, three, and so on. That should line up perfectly. If it doesn't, you might've moved this a little bit or you might be off. Snug this up, torque this to 45 foot-pounds. Now we need to take a look and make sure that the slotted area of our nut lines up with the hole in the tie rod stud. If it doesn't, you need to continue tightening until the first one does. Go ahead and peen that over.
Now it's gonna be time to tighten our jam nut. To do that, you wanna hold your tie rod so it can't spin because you don't wanna damage the ball and socket area. Now let's go ahead and snug this. There we go. If your tire rod's crooked, just make sure you straighten it out so it's level with the ground. Go ahead and put the wheel back up on here. We're gonna start all of our lug nuts and then we'll torque them to 130 foot-pounds.
