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1A Auto Lifetime Warranty
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Part Details
Our steering and suspension components are pre-greased and sealed for long life and do not require the extra maintenance typically required by greaseable versions.
Item Condition:
New
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WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source of quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet.
Hi, I am Mike Green. I am one of the owners of 1A Auto. I want to help you save time and money repairing and maintaining your vehicle. I am going to use my 20 plus years experience restoring and repairing cars and trucks like this to show you the correct way to install parts from 1aauto.com. The right parts installed correctly that's going to save you time and money. Thank you and enjoy the video.
In this video we will be replacing the stabilizer link on this 2003 Chrysler Voyager. This is the same as any 1996 to 09 Caravan, Voyager and Town and Country. The tools you will need for this are a set of Allen wrenches 1/4 to 5/16, 3/4 or 18 mm wrench and a socket wrench or lug wrench to remove your wheel. Depending on the year and whether or not your stabilizing links have already been replaced you may have slightly different sizes so we didn't specify each size for the wrenches.
Ok, first you need to raise your car and secure it. Always follow the safety instructions on the jack and the jack stem or the lift and I am going to remove the front wheel. Our problem is actually right here. Now that you have the wheel off, there is two bolts that hold this stabilizer link on right here. I am going to spray it with a good amount of penetrant. Here is the bottom of the link and I am going to bring it around to the side here. You can see the bolt I have actually already spread that one with some stuff. Once you have the bolts sprayed down. You are going to use an Allen wrench and this is a five mm wrench. That is the right one. I believe that's about the right one.
Probably from about 1/4 inch to 5/16 or five mm and then the wrench is anywhere from 18 mm this is actually, this car may have had this replaced before. Then if you are lucky enough, the top comes off pretty easy. You have to hold the Allen wrench while you twisting it off. You see there, it spins if you don't hold it. Now the bottom- you actually put your Allen wrench right up through this little hole in the control arm and then first you got to put your wrench on. Again this one is 3/4 but it may be a 18 mm and then put it up through there. One of the first turns is that you turn it goes by itself and once that other starts spinning you got to work that Allen wrench in there and hold on to it.
Then in my experience, if you are doing this on Northeastern rustbelt car what you are going to want to have ready is a Sawzall. You can easily enough saw right here and right through. As long as you have a new blade on here probably take about 30 - 35 seconds just to get right down through and saw that off. Because most of the time what happens is this is so rusty it won't come apart. If it was necessary up here at the top you can do the same thing, run your saw blade right through here, or if you are lucky enough you may have torch or something. A Sawzall can be rented at a place like a Home Depot or a Lowes. What I would do is when you are ready to do this project try just getting it apart with the wrenches first, but have a plan. Call your Home Depot make sure they have one of these available to rent. If you can't get it apart with the wrenches, hop over to the Home Depot, rent the saw for a couple of hours and make sure you put a new blade on it and you will go right through and get it right out.
Now I am going to remove the old one and get ready to put the new one back in. As you can see I got this hooked off and of course the locking nuts it is kind of can be a pain to the last. It's actually gotten more difficult to remove it. There is the link and what happens is there is a nylon inside and it ends up wearing out and going bad and then they start knocking, if you start hearing a clunk or vibration when you go over a pot hole. That is probably what it is. One way to really tell is if you are turning and you go over bumps and you don't hear the sound as much that is a good indicator that these are the problem. Because when you are turning you are actually putting pressure on these and you eliminate their ability to vibrate and clunk. Basically if you are driving straight and you hear clunking when you go over bumps try listening for that clunking when you are taking a slight curve. If you don't hear it as much, then it is your stabilizer links.
Take your new link from 1A Auto then it goes right there where the old one is and then all you have to do is the same drill. Just use your Allen wrench and your wrench and tighten them up. When we get them on, we will tighten them up. Same thing is to put your wrench on, use your Allen wrench. Go ahead and tighten them on. Get them on pretty tight. You can actually once it is in there tight you can use your wrench really tighten them up. Tighten up the bottom one really good. Put the wheel back on and it is ready to go.
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