Chevrolet GMC Cadillac Front 10 Piece Steering, Suspension, & Drivetrain Kit TRQ PSA58832

Before you start, you wanna be aware that after you're done this job, you're gonna wanna go to an alignment specialist so that you can have the vehicle aligned so you don't wear out the tires prematurely.

I'm gonna remove the wheel. Use a 22-millimeter socket, take the lug nuts off. And take the wheel off.

I'm gonna loosen up the jam nut. You can use a 22-millimeter wrench or a 7/8 wrench. Just get that loose. That's good. I'm just gonna spray a little rust penetrant on here. Gonna use an 18-millimeter socket, take this nut off. And if the nut doesn't come off and the stud starts spinning, you can use an 8-millimeter socket to hold that stud from spinning and then just use the wrench to take the nut off. Now you can take a hammer and just give a tap on the bottom of the tir rod or take a pickle fork and separate it this way. Just if you use a pickle fork, it's probably gonna rip the boot right here. So I'm just gonna give it a hit right here. There we go. And now we're gonna take the outer tie rod off. As we unscrew this, just count the threads. So 1, 2, 3, 4, 23, 24. So write that number down and when you go to put it back together, you're gonna count them to put the other one in the same position that that one was in.

And take the new tie rod end. Get this started. Make sure you count. One, 2, 3, 4, 5, 22, 23, 24. And line this up in the knuckle. Take the castle nut. Get that started. Now what you can do is to prevent the stud from spinning, you can take a prybar. Just pry in between the knuckle and pry down on the tie rod. Use an 18-millimeter socket and tighten this up. And tighten this to 37 foot-pounds. And then just check to see where the stud...where the hole is for the castle nut and if you need to, you can snug it up a little bit more to get it to line up. And that hole lines up. Now take the cotter pin, slide it through. Should slide through this way. And take some side cutters and just bend it. Just tap it out of the way. And then trim off the excess. And we'll snug up the jam nut. And tighten that to 50 foot-pounds.

Put the wheel back on. And the lug nuts. Now we're gonna tighten these lug nuts down to 140 foot-pounds and I'm gonna do it in a cross pattern to tighten the wheel down evenly. And just go around again, double-check.

All right. So one of the first things you need to do is safely raise and support the vehicle. Once you've done that, you're gonna remove all six of your lug nuts. Remove your wheel. Now what we're gonna do is we're gonna get the ABS wire out of the way. The last thing we wanna do when we're doing any of the work on this upper control arm is to put a tug or damage this in any way. If you were to follow it up, you'll be able to see right where the connector is. I'm gonna remove that connector from the frame using my forky tool. Pull it down to where you can see it. Grab this tab. Lift it. Pull it off. These right here, you can remove. Just use a small pocket screwdriver or whatever you might have. Get right in between this area right there. We'll do the same down the line. Let's work on getting this brake hose off of the control arm now. We're gonna remove this 10-millimeter headed bolt. That's very common for them to break. Kinda wiggle it around. Get it off of there. The next thing we need to do is come right down here. We need to remove this upper ball joint nut. Once we remove that, we're gonna break the knuckle free from the upper ball joint control arm. There we go. Get that off of there. Put that nut on there. Just a couple threads and I'll show you why in a second.

The next thing we're gonna do is use our pickle fork and our hammer, then we're going to come right in between this joint and separate the two. When it separates, the knuckle is gonna wanna drop and move away. If it dropped and moved away, there's a possibility that it could put a tug on your axle or even maybe something such as your brake hose. We don't want that to happen. That's what this nuts for. It's a safety nut. Leave that there for now. So now I'm just gonna use a bungee cord or pretty much anything that you might have that can prevent this from falling down because we need to get that nut off there but we still wanna make sure we have control of this. There we are. Carefully set that aside. Let's spray this down with some penetrant. Take a peek right under here and make sure that you don't have a snap ring. A lot of vehicles won't, yours may. Now it's gonna be time to get our ball joint press set up on here. You're gonna need a cup that fits directly over the top of that ball joint up all along that control arm. You're gonna need a piece like this that has a spot in the center that the driver's gonna sit right into. Now we'll just go ahead and put this right over that ball joint stud and then we'll snug this up.

Now we're just gonna go ahead and tighten this up. And we're trying to press the ball joint up and through the control arm. You can't really see much of what's going on but what should be happening is the ball joint's gonna be coming up and separating. So it looks like that's working pretty well. I can see it starting to separate right there. So what I'm gonna do next is I'll loosen this back up and now I'm gonna try using something else as a spacer to continue driving this up. Get that boot off there. And there it is friends. Just a quick overview of the new ball joint before we go ahead and install it. If you were to look at it, it pretty much looks the same all the way around unless of course you took the boot off and then you took a peek underneath. If you look, you're gonna see there's a flat edge there and a flat edge here. You need the pivot point, which would be the opened areas of this ball joint, to be facing in and out of the vehicle or to the left and the right, not front to back. You don't want this to pivot front to back. That's not the way it needs to go. It would need to go this way so I can pivot in and out or left and right on the vehicle. All right. So we've got our ball joint here. You can see it comes with a little hole on the top. We're just gonna line that up facing straight out towards us. That looks pretty great.

Now I'm gonna take my ball joint press kit and I'm gonna use the piece that looks like this. That's gonna sit right over the top and that's where the driver is gonna go down against. You need to have something covering this ball joint. You cannot press directly against it. I'm gonna use a cup that has a hole in it on the bottom for the lower part. Come right in just like this. And having the hole in the bottom is gonna make it so that the stud will be able to come through as the ball joint presses in. Start that right on there. Now I'm gonna snug this up. All right. Let's go ahead and bottom this out. We're gonna bring the ball joint right down to the control arm. As we do this, you wanna make sure the ball joint's going as straight down as possible. If it seems as though it's going off-kilter in any direction, you need to stop, try to fix the ball joint, straighten it out. Now I'm just gonna take a look. I can see the ball joint is hitting directly against the control arm. I'm gonna double check to make sure it's all the way around. That looks perfect. While we still have the press on here and it's giving it a lot of force, I'm just gonna bonk on this control arm a couple times just to cause a little bit of vibration and maybe set this in if it's just got a little bit more to go. That's great. Let's get this out of here.

It's super important to make sure that you put your snap ring on here. The snap ring is gonna keep this ball joint from eventually or potentially working its way out of the control arm. Grab some pliers that look like this. They're gonna have two little pitons on them and they're gonna fit right inside the holes on the snap ring. Once you spread them, you'll notice that it opens up. We're gonna come right over the ball joint and we're gonna put it up into that lip that's up near the control arm. We've got that over there. Double check to make sure it's seated all the way around. It needs to be in there completely. That looks perfect. Let's grab the boot. So let's turn over our boot and take a little look right here. You're gonna see where the stud comes through. It has a little area that looks different than the rest. That area needs to be facing in-board or towards the inside of the vehicle. So we'll put that facing just like that and it's facing towards the frame. Now we can take some pliers or whatever you might have and we need to get the boot so it's sitting up on top of the ball joint. Double check the boot. Make sure it's sitting perfectly all the way around. As long as it is, now we're gonna grab the knuckle. Bring it up. We're gonna put the stud through. We're gonna need a little bit of leverage though.

I'm gonna use a nice long pry bar. Come across the top of the control arm here/ball joint and under the frame. I'll pull it down and then I'll start in the nut. Give this a little turn. Bring it up. Okay. Let's get our pry bar. Bring that ball joint down and into the knuckle. There we are. Let's start the nut on. Just go ahead and get this thing so it's snugged up. Okay. The torque for this nut is 37 foot-pounds. Will you be able to get a socket and a torque wrench in between here? Probably not. 37 foot-pounds isn't really very much but it is definitely tight. So bottom it out, give it a little bit more, and then we're gonna definitely make sure that the cotter pin hole is gonna line up between the nut and the stud. Okay. So now I'm just gonna take a peek and I can see where the slot and the nut is, and I can see where the hole and the stud is. You wanna line those up. Put the cotter pin through just like that. Now we'll just peen this down and then curl it over. This is gonna make sure that there's no way that that nut can loosen up on its own. At this point, we don't need this on there anymore. Let's get that ABS wire back connected. Give it a nice tug. Make sure it's completely connected and now make sure it's secured to the frame. The next thing you would wanna do is make sure you secure your brake hose.

Go ahead and put that bolt back in, assuming yours didn't break. If it did, you need to make sure you secure it with something such as maybe a tie of some sort, or even drill out the hole and re-tap it if you needed to. Now before we go ahead and put the wheel back up on there, just double-check everything. Make sure that your ABS wire is connected. Make sure your ball joint's sitting flush. The boot's on the way that it needs to be and you definitely have a locking cotter pin holding that nut on the stud. Now let's go ahead and torque our lug nuts to 140 foot-pounds. Center cap, go ahead and pop it on there. Now that you've finished your service, go ahead and take it for a road test and make sure you get it down to a local reputable alignment shop.

Now one of the first things you're going to want to do before you start any job is to make sure you're safe as possible. You want to have safety glasses and hand protection at all times. The next thing you're going to want to do is safely raise and support your vehicle so that your wheel is off the ground. Next, if there's a center cap, remove the plastic center cap and that'll expose your lug nuts. Remove all six using a 22-millimeter socket. Remove your wheel.

Now that we have a nice clear view of our tie rods, I'm going to spray down this area right here. This is the adjustment area. Use a little bit of penetrant. That's going to help you along. Using some nice long pliers, I'm going to grab right onto this and I'm going to turn it clockwise. That'll break free this jam nut. Okay, that broke free. Let's remove the nut that holds that outer tie rod end to the knuckle. Now we're going to hit right here on the knuckle to break our outer tie rod end free from the knuckle.

Turn your outer tie rod end counter-clockwise and count the amount of times it turns around as you remove it. One, two, three, and so on. Okay. Write down that corresponding number so you can remember. Now it's going to be time to get the inner tie rod end off of here. Here's the new inner tie rod end. And if you were to look right along this edge right here, that's the area we're going to need to grab onto, and then turn this counter-clockwise to break it free and eventually remove it. So we'll come right under here with our nice long pliers and get it off of there. There we go.

There it is friends. Now it's going to be time to install our new inner tie rod end. You might notice that there's no grease fitting to be able to grease this. Really there is. The grease is going to come right through that hole right there and that'll happen through here, starting at this point right here at this fitting. Put grease here, it comes right through and then of course it fills up the boot on the inner tie rod end. All right. I put some thread locker on here. I'm just going to go ahead and start this thing by hand. Now that we have that, as far as we can get it by hand, let's go ahead and snug it up with our pliers. Bottomed out. Just give it a teeny bit more. Awesome. Let's remove that jam nut. Let's put a little bit of copper never seize on the inner tie rod end threads, and then we'll just work that jam nut up the inner tie rod end quite a bit here. Now that we have the threaded area coded, we have our outer tie rod end, let's go ahead and put that on. And we're going to count it in the same amount of threads that we counted the original one off. That was one, two, three, and so on.

Okay? Just bring this so it's close. Put that node off of there. Put this on there. Let's bottom that out. Now we're going to torque this nut to 48 foot-pounds. All right. So now that we have that torqued, we need to pay special attention to where the slot on the castle nut lines up with the hole in the stud. If it doesn't line up, you need to continue tightening until it does. Okay. So that looks pretty good. Let's try it. That slides right through, just pin it over. The cotter pin is going to ensure that there's no way that this nut can come loose. Now it's going to be time to tighten up your jam nut. To tighten this, we're going to turn it counter-clockwise. When you torque it, you would want to torque it to 37 foot-pounds if you have the ability.

Okay. Just make sure that it's nice and snug. By the time you're finished, make sure your outer tie rod end is nice and parallel to the ground or at least as parallel as it can be. Now it's going to be time to get the grease fitting out of here. Use your 8-millimeter. There it is. Let's clean off around the area. Grab your new grease fitting. We'll start it right in there by hand, and then we'll snug it up, nice and tight. Let's give it a little grease

Now let's get the wheel back up on here. Okay. Now with the wheel barely on the ground so it can't spin, we're going to torque the lug nuts to 140 foot-pounds. Torqued. If you have a center cover, put it on there now. Now that you've finished your service, go ahead and take it for a road test and make sure you get it down to a local reputable alignment shop.

One of the first things you want to do is safely raise and support your vehicle by the frame so your suspension can hang. Once you've done that, take a small pry bar and we're going to take off this center cap. If you were to spin it, you're going to see a little notch in the cap. Just carefully slide this off of here. That exposes our 22-millimeter lug nuts. Remove all six. Remove your wheel. Now let's remove our 21-millimeter nut. Let's just put that nut on, just a couple threads. Now we're going to take a hammer and we're going to hit right here on the knuckle. You want to be very careful for your brake rotor.

Now that the wheel is off, we have a clear view of where we're going to start working. We're going to disconnect the electrical, this is the ABS right here, and it's very delicate. I'm just gonna come right up along here, and you're gonna see where it's supposed to be mounted to the frame. Should be pretty secure. This is missing about half of its clip, so I'll make sure I secure it in afterward. This purple right here is a little lock, it's holding it from coming separated. I like to just come right in between here, pop that up. Now we'll separate this, just take a peek, make sure you don't see any funny colors. If you were to come right down along here, we're gonna get this clip off of here as well. Just give it a little twist, lift it up, grab that ABS wire, carefully set it aside. The next thing we're going to do is remove this 10-millimeter headed bolt. The next thing we're gonna do is remove the nut that holds the upper ball joint to the knuckle. Okay. That comes right off. I'm just gonna go ahead and put it on there just a couple threads for now. Now let's use a 36-millimeter socket to remove our axle nut. Behind there, there's a washer. Go ahead and remove that as well. Let's go ahead and blast this with some penetrant.

The next thing we need to do is separate the axle from the bearing. I'm going to use this punch right here and go right in the center. You definitely don't wanna use a hammer and potentially damage the threads. The next thing we need to do is remove our mounting bolts that hold the caliper to the knuckle, use an 18-millimeter. Carefully hang your caliper, so it's putting no pressure on your flex hoses. So, now let's just double-check to make sure this upper ball joint nut is still on there a few good threads, it hasn't loosened upon us. And then we'll move down here to the lower ball joint nut. Remove that as well. Take that, and just put it on a couple threads.

Okay, so now it's gonna be time to separate the upper ball joint from the knuckle right here. Pay special attention to anything that's delicate that you don't want ruined, such as an ABS wire. Make sure that that's secure and safely out of the way. Go ahead and take your nice little hammer. And we're going to bonk right here on the knuckle itself. As you can tell it's separated, we can move along. So, now let's push down on this. Remove that nut. And carefully draw this down. Now if you're worried the knuckle with a rotor is going to be too heavy, you can go ahead and use a Torx bit right here, remove that bolt, and take the rotor right off. The problem with removing it like that is you're gonna have to clean up the mating surface between the wheel bearing and the rotor itself. So, now I'm going to take my hammer again and I'm going to come right down here and we're going to hit right on the knuckle itself until this comes down. There we are. Carefully lift up, remove the ball joint nut. Carefully lower this down, remove your knuckle.

The next thing you're going to want to do is support your lower control arm so that you're not putting maximum pressure on your front shock/strut. If you are, you can potentially damage it, because we're going to be using a hammer and we're going to hit right here on the lower ball joint to break it free.

Now to install the lower ball joint, we're gonna want to take the boot off of it first. So, I'm just going to use a nice small screwdriver, pry bar, weasel it in between. Then just kind of separate the two. Be careful not to damage the boot, of course, because we're going to be using it. The next thing we need is a ball joint kit with a cup that's going to fit right up against this lip. We're going to come right underneath, and then we're going to press this right up and in. Right along the bottom. I'm going to use a cup that looks like this, with a hole in the bottom, that's for the stud to go through. It's going to press right up against this ridge right here. Take this cup, something that's hollow enough to make sure that the top part of the ball joint can fit inside. Put it right over the top. Now we're going to take our ball joint C-clamp, put it right over the top, bottom it out. Just check to make sure that the cup is centered to approximately where the ball joints going to be.

Now we're going to tighten this up. As we do that, we want to check this ridge and make sure it matches up directly along this control arm. As you can tell, the ball joint ridge is directly against the control arm right here. Before I release any pressure, I'm just going to give the control arm a couple light bonks with my hammer, just for a little bit of vibration to help make sure this is seated securely. That should be pretty great. Carefully remove your tool. Make sure you install your clamp. To do that, just use these little pliers right here. They fit inside the holes, and then you can spread it. Slide it right over. Make sure it's sitting inside the roof all the way around. If it isn't, just work at it until it is. Now we're going to install our boot. Just carefully bring it up here. I like to try to start it on one side, so I'll go on the side farthest away from me. Then I'll use some pliers and just kind of roll the lip right on. Obviously, be careful not to poke any holes in the boot. Inspect it for any damage. Make sure that it's completely secured. This looks perfect.
Go ahead and take your knuckle. I'm going to start it on the axle a little bit, then slide it over the lower ball joint stud. Lift it up. Kink it to the side and start on that lower ball joint nut. Wiggle the axle around. Should slide right in. Now we're going to use a bar, we're going to pull this upper ball joint down into here. Get the nut, go ahead and start it on there. Just going to take my bar, and try to hold pressure on the lower ball joint to the knuckle. And then we're going to go ahead and try to tighten it up. So, now you'd want to torque this to 37-foot-pounds. If for some reason you can't get your torque wrench in there, like I can't, I would just continue with my wrench and make sure it's nice and tight. [vocalization]. Perfect.

Now it's time to torque up that lower ball joint nut as well. Torque it to 37-foot-pounds. Now what we want to do is make sure that our slot is lined up with the hole that goes through the ball joint stud, so we can make sure we install our cotter pin. Go ahead and slide that through. If for some reason yours is not lined up when you torqued it, you need to continue tightening, not loosening, until it's lined up with the next available slot. Go ahead and peen that over and lock it in. All right. So, now it's gonna be time to get the caliper on here. Just go ahead and slide it right over the rotor. Now we're gonna line up those bolt holes. I like to use some red threadlocker on these bolts. And start them in there. Okay. Let's bottom them out. Now let's go ahead and torque these 248-foot-pounds. Now we'll just go ahead and take that tie rod end, put right through the knuckle. Take your nut, start it on there. We're gonna bottom it out. Now you're gonna torque this to 44-foot-pounds. That's torqued.

The next thing we're gonna do is look to see if we can find the hole in the stud of the tie rod and match it with the next corresponding slot on the tie rod stud nut. This doesn't line up, so what I need to do now is I need to continue tightening until it does. I can see right through. I'm going to grab that locking cotter pin and install it. Slide that right on through and just peen it over. There's no way that this nut can come loose. Now it's going to be time to get the washer with the axle nut on there. Go ahead and slide the pair on. Go ahead and use your 36-millimeter socket, bottom it out, and then we'll torque it. Just gonna put a little splash of never-seize in here, I've got my mounting bolt. Let's use our 10-millimeter and snug it up. Make sure it's fully secured, make sure there's nothing binding your flex hose for your brakes are not twisted in any way.

Now it's time to get our ABS wire re-secured. Let's go ahead and put it in right here. Make sure it cannot come loose. If this can hang around and move around, it could potentially get damaged. Go ahead and connect this in now. Listen for a click, give it a tug. Go ahead and slide in your lock. Now we're going to take our mounting hardware here and just slide it right down in there. It's just a little push clip. Give it a nice tug, make sure it's definitely secured.

So, of course, next, you'd want to go ahead and torque down this nut right here. And that's going to be torqued to 177-foot-pounds. You can do that several ways. If you were to just do it like this, what you're going to notice is it just keeps spinning. If that was the case, what you would do is you can use a pry bar coming straight through these lug studs like this down to the ground. And so it holds it from spinning on you and then you would torque it. If you didn't want to go through the process doing that you can go ahead and throw the wheel up on there and then go through the center hole, which is the way that I'm going to do it.

We'll grab those lug nuts, start them all on there. Let's bottom these out. Now we'll bring it down to the ground and we'll make it so the wheel is just barely touching enough so the wheel can't spin. It's time to torque down this axle nut, 177-foot pounds like I said. Torqued. Now let's do the lug nuts,140-foot-pounds. Go crisscross. Torqued. Now it's gonna be time to get the center cover on. Before you go ahead and pound it on there, just take a look at the back, you're going to see something that looks a lot like a valve stem. Line it up. It's gonna go pretty much just like this. Light bonk, and then, of course, clean up your wheel, make it look nice and pretty and take it for a road test.

Before you start, you wanna be aware that after you're done this job, you're gonna wanna go to an alignment specialist so that you can have the vehicle aligned so you don't wear out the tires prematurely.

I'm gonna remove the wheel. Use a 22-millimeter socket. Take the lug nuts off. And take the wheel off. I'm gonna loosen up the jam nut. You can use a 22-millimeter wrench or a 7/8 wrench. Just get that loose. That's good. I'm just gonna spray a little rust penetrant on here. And use an 18-millimeter socket, take this nut off. And if the nut doesn't come off and the stud starts spinning, you can use an 8-millimeter socket to hold that stud from spinning, and then just use the wrench to take the nut off. Now you can take a hammer and just give a tap on the bottom of the tie rod, or take a pickle fork and separate it this way. Just if you use a pickle fork, it's probably gonna rip the boot right here. I'm just gonna give it a hit right here. There we go. And now we're gonna take the outer tie rod off. As we unscrew this, just count the threads. So 1, 2, 3, 4, 23, 24. So write that number down. And when you go to put it back together, you're gonna count them to put the other one in the same position that that one was in.

Now I'm gonna take off the inner tie rod end. I'm gonna use a large adjustable wrench because I don't have a wrench that's big enough to fit this. Slide this over and loosen it up. And eventually we'll get that off. Take the inner tie rod end and get this started. Now we're gonna tighten this up with the adjustable wrench. If you have the ability to torque this, you wanna torque this to 74-foot-pounds. Just do the best you can. That's good. Then you wanna take a grease gun and hook it up to this grease fitting and give it a couple pumps. You can do it until you start seeing the boot move a little bit, then you know there's plenty of grease in there. And take the new tie rod end. Get this started. Make sure you count 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 22, 23, 24 and line this up in the knuckle. Take the castle nut, get that started. Now, what you can do is to prevent the stud from spinning, you can take a pry bar, just pry in between the knuckle and pry down on the tie rod, use an18-millimeter socket and tighten this up. And tighten this to 37-foot-pounds. And then just check to see where the hole is for the castle nut. And if you need to, you can snug it up a little bit more to get it to line up. And that that hole lines up. Now take the cotter pin, slide it through, actually we'll slide it through this way and take some side cutters and just bend it. Tap it out of the way, and then trim off the excess. And we'll snug up the jam nut and tighten that to 50-foot-pounds. Put the wheel back on and the lug nuts. I'm gonna take these lug nuts down to 140-foot-pounds, and I'm gonna do it in a cross pattern to tighten the wheel down evenly. Just go around again. Double-check.

Now one of the first things you're gonna wanna do before you start any job is to make sure you're safe as possible. You wanna have safety glasses and hand protection at all times. The next thing you're gonna wanna do is safely raise and support your vehicle so that your wheels are off the ground. Next, if there's a center cap, remove the plastic center cap and that will expose your lug nuts. Remove all 6 using a 22-millimeter socket. Remove your wheel. Now that we have a nice clear view of our tire rods, I'm gonna spray down this area right here. This is the adjustment area. Use a little bit of penetrant. That's gonna help you along. Using some nice long pliers, I'm gonna grab right onto this and I'm gonna turn it clockwise. That'll break free this jam nut. Okay, that broke free. Let's remove the nut that holds the outer tie rod end to the knuckle.

Now we're gonna hit right here on the knuckle to break our outer tie rod end free from the knuckle. Turn your outer tie rod end counterclockwise and count the amount of times it turns around as you remove it. One, two, three and so on. Okay. Write down that corresponding number so you can remember. We have our outer tie rod end. Let's go ahead and put that on. And we're gonna count it in the same amount of threads that we counted the original one off. That was one, two, three and so on. Okay. Just bring this so it's close. Get that nut off of there. I'm gonna put this on there. Let's bottom that out. Now we're gonna torque this nut to 48 foot-pounds. All right. So now that we have that torqued, we need to pay special attention to where the slot on the castle nut lines up with the hole in the stud. If it doesn't line up, you need to continue tightening until it does. Okay, so that looks pretty good. Let's try it.

That slides right through. Spin it over. The cotter pin's gonna ensure that there's no way that this nut can come loose. Now it's gonna be time to tighten up your jam nut. To tighten this we're gonna turn it counter clockwise. When you torque it, you would wanna torque it to 37 foot-pounds if you have the ability. Let's see here. Okay. Just make sure that it's nice and snug. By the time you're finished, make sure your outer tie rod end is nice and parallel to the ground or at least as parallel as it can be. Now let's get the wheel back up on here. Okay. Now with the wheel barely on the ground so it can't spin, we're gonna torque the lug nuts to 140 foot-pounds. Torqued. If you have a center cover, put it on there now. Now that you've finished your service, go ahead and take it for a road test and make sure you get it down to a local reputable alignment shop.

I'm gonna use a 22-millimeter socket, take off the lug nuts so we can remove the wheel. Now remove the wheel. I'm going to take these two caliper slide bolts out. I'm going to use an 18-millimeter socket. Get those free first. And slide those out. Now I'll take a screwdriver. I'm just going to pry the pistons of the caliper in a little bit. Just go in between the caliper and the rotor. Make it easier to take the caliper off. Now you can take a brake caliper hanger and support the brake caliper itself. Just hook it on the upper control arm or fold the caliper over and just set it so that it doesn't fall. Just make sure there's no tension on the brake hose. Now we can take the brake pads off. Just use a straight blade screwdriver. Just pry them off. Now we want to take the caliper bracket off. We're going to take these two bolts out. I'm gonna use an 18-millimeter socket. Loosen those up. Take those bolts out and slide the bracket off.

Take the rotor off. If your rotor is stuck on there, you can take a hammer and just hit in these areas. Just be careful of not hitting the studs. Slide it off. Now I'm going to take the ABS sensor off or the wheel speed sensor off. Disconnect the wire. This one has wire ties on it holding it on, but normally you just pop it out of the bracket right here. Right there. You can just slide under this retainer and slide it out. And then same with this. Where the connector is disconnect the connector, and just slide it out of the way.

Now we'll take the axle nut off, use a 36-millimeter socket. And take this washer off. You can use a magnet. And can just take a hammer, just give the axle a tap. Just make sure it's loose. You don't want to hit it too hard. You don't want to mushroom the end over because then you won't be able to get the nut on after, or you could always use a punch and tap it with a punch. Now there's three bolts on the backside of the knuckle. Take those three bolts out. Use a 15-millimeter socket. Just be careful of the CV boot. You don't want to rip the CV boot. At least get those loose. They may not come out because of the CV boot, but you could push the axle back and get them out. Now you can slide those bolts out or just leave them in there, either way.

Normally, you'll have a dust shield here. So keep that in mind. This vehicle doesn't have one but I'm going to take the hub off. Just use a hammer and just give it a tap on the backside. Try to get it separate from the knuckle. You just go back and forth. And slide it off. And if you had that shield, you'd have to slide the ABS sensor off the shield and reuse the shield when you put it back together. You can use a wire brush to clean this up a little bit and then just use a little bit of copper anti-seize just around here and just so it doesn't seize up. So if in the future you ever have to take off the hub again. All right. At this point, you would take that shield and run the ABS wire through the shield or wheel speed sensor wire, and then slide this in position. And put these bolts back in.

And now I'm going to torque all 3 of these bolts to 133 foot-pounds. Now take the wheel speed sensor wire and put it through that bracket. Slide under the brake hose and attach this to the upper control arm right there. And then this one is going to go right here. Push that through and connect the connector and then push the connector in on top. And take the washer, put the washer back on, put the nut on. Now I'm going to lower the vehicle down to the ground a little bit and use a pry bar to keep the hub from spinning. And I'm going to torque the nut to 177 foot-pounds. Just take a little anti-seize and just wipe it on the hub surface. Just a nice thin coat.

Now install the rotor. If you want to, you can put a lug nut on to hold the rotor on. Makes installing it a little bit easier. Keeps the rotor in place. And just slide the caliper bracket over the rotor. Take the bolts. You can put some thread lock adhesive on them. Now we're going to torque these bolts to 129 foot-pounds. Now I'm going to take the brake pads, put the brake pads on. Now, the warning indicator for the inboard pad, the one that goes on the inside, is going to be at the bottom. There's only one. There's nothing on the top. The one that goes in the outside has both squealers or warning indicators. Slide those in position.

Now I need to compress the pistons back into the caliper. You can use a piston compressing tool. They make different types of tools. This is a ratchet type. As I tighten this up, it's going to push the piston back into the caliper, which is going to push the brake fluid through the hoses, through the lines, and back up into the master cylinder. Just go nice and slow. You don't want to rush this. The slower, the better. Those pistons are compressed. Now slide the caliper over the brake pads. Now you can take the two brake caliper bolts. Clean them off with some brake parts cleaner. Wipe them off. These aren't too bad. And just take some brake caliper grease, put it on the guide pins. Now install the caliper bolts or guide pins. And torque those to 80 foot-pounds.

Now you can take this lug nut off and put the wheel back up. Now put the tire back on. And the lug nuts. Now I'm going to torque the lug nuts to 140 foot-pounds in a star pattern or a cross pattern so that it tightens the wheel down evenly.

And just go around again. Double-check. Now, after you're done, you want to make sure you pump up the brake pedal nice and slow. There's going to be an air gap between the caliper piston and the brake pads. So just do that until that feels pretty good. And then double-check your brake fluid level and adjust accordingly.

All right. So, one of the first things you need to do is safely raise and support the vehicle. Once you've done that, you're going to remove all six of your lug nuts. Remove your wheel. Now, the next thing that we would want to do is take a look at our caliper right here. Look all around it to make sure you don't see any moisture coming out. If you see moisture coming out of it, more than likely, it's got a fluid leak. Assuming it looks like it's in good condition, we're going to go ahead and push back the piston a little bit. Grab your small pry bar, come right in between the caliper and up against the pad if you can or even the rotor, and then we're just going to carefully, slowly push this back. So, now the next thing that I would want to do is come right on the backside and I would remove the bolts that are holding the whole caliper bracket to the knuckle itself. There's going to be two of them and they're going to hold on this whole unit. Me, personally, what I like to do is inspect everything as I go. I don't want to just take this off and potentially have bad brakes. So, I'll actually take the caliper apart. I'm going to take off the two bolts that hold the caliper to the bracket and inspect those pads so I know I have good parts.

Once your caliper's off, take a good look. Make sure you don't see any moisture coming around these boots right here. If you see any moisture, you have a brake leak. You need to replace your caliper. Now, we can grab onto those pads. We'll take them right off of here and just take a nice look. This one has plenty of meat all the way around. It's not damaged in any way. If anything, it could use a little bit of parts cleaner, but that's about as much as I would go. Let's take a look at this one. That looks perfect as well. If they were worn at an angle or anything like that, that would be an issue that you'd need to diagnose. Let's get this bracket off of here. Let's remove the rotor. The next thing we need to do is get this cap off of here. I'm just going to use this pry bar. Next, we're going to remove our 36-millimeter axle nut. Get that washer off of there. Remove your 18-millimeter outer tie rod end nut. The next thing we need to do is hit right along here on the knuckle to break the outer tie rod end free. You can also notice that your outer tie rod end threads don't come all the way down to this point. So, if you wanted to, you can just give a couple of light bonks in an upward direction here. If that doesn't work, go ahead and make your way up here.

So, now if you follow this cable coming up along your upper control arm past your frame, and if you could see up behind here, see if I can bend that, you can see right where the connection is going to go in. Okay? That's got a little push clip that's going down into this bracket there. So, we're going to just go ahead and take that out. I have a little forky tool. Now, I'll bring it to where you can see. This was the push clip that was going down into this metal piece here. Separate the two. I always like to take a peek, make sure there's no funny colors in my connector. Make sure nothing's broken or torn. Set that aside. At this point, you can go ahead in between here. You can use something as simple as a pocket screwdriver or your finger even maybe, and you can start popping off these clips. This one right here is a little bit different. It's got two little ears that you're going to need to squish in. You can either do one at a time and just kind of try to work it at an angle or you can try to squeeze both with some pliers. There it is. The next thing we need to do is break our axle free from the wheel bearing. Go ahead and break that free with some penetrant and then use a punch right in the center there and a hammer. If you can see the axle moving, then you're doing all right. Now, the next thing we need to do is come from the backside of the knuckle, approximately where the axle is going to be. If I was to press in and out on the axle, you can see where the bolt's going to be.

For this one up here, obviously, I'm not going to be able to use my socket and ratchet. I'm going to have the upper ball joint in the way. Just use my wrench, carefully get it on there. There we are. And then we'll just wrench it right off of there. Go ahead and spray the area with some penetrant. The next thing we're going to do is remove the bearing from the knuckle itself. Before I get to hitting on it, I'm going to go ahead and put on this axle nut there. That's going to prevent the bearing from potentially falling off and hurting me. And then I'm just going to take my hammer and I'm going to give it a couple of loving bonks to try to pull it away from the knuckle. So, I have a nice clear gap here. I'm just going to keep on working at it. All right. That looks good. Remove the nut off of here, remove our bearing, and remove it from the backing plate. Now, the next thing we need to do is clean up the area where the new bearing is going to ride. If you were to look right along this area here, all in this circle is going to be up against the bearing. So, let's go ahead and clean that up as much as possible and then right along this edge right here as well. Pretty much the flat areas facing out towards us, the bearing is going to be pressed right up against it.

So, we've got the inside pretty cleaned up as much as we could. We cleaned up the outer portion here where the bearing is going to mount up against. Now, just check that splined area. Make sure there's no crud inside there. If you need to clean it down, go ahead and clean it down using some parts spray. Now, I'm going to push through all those bolts. Just take a peek at them and make sure they're still in good condition. If there's any thread locker, just try to clean it off of there. I'm going to go ahead and use a little bit of thread locker. I like to use thread locker on these for sure. Perfect. I'm gonna put a little bit right here too. Let's take a quick look at that backing plate. Make sure it's in good condition, it's not damaged in any way, it's not bent. Grab our new bearing, go ahead and put the wire right straight through there, and then line up the area where the wire is supposed to go through. Just like that. Now, we're going to take that and we're going to put the wire facing towards the top front of the vehicle. And just go ahead and twist it until it fits in on the axle and slide it right in. Okay.

All the bolts are bottomed out. Let's go ahead and torque them to 133 foot-pounds. That's torqued. Let's get our ABS cable back on here. Push the small side because if you were to look you'd see a larger side, put the smaller side right through here. Make sure it clicks in. Make sure it's secure. This is going to go across the top of your control arm. And then make its way over to here. This clip should sit right inside this groove. This groove right here is for that clip. Okay. We'll connect these in, give them a nice tug, make sure it's secure. Put your push clip through the hole. The next thing we're gonna do is get this outer tie rod end back on here. Torque this to 48 foot-pounds. Okay. Let's get our washer on there and our axle nut. The next thing we need to do is hold this so it can't spin. I'm just going to use a nice long pry bar, put it across the studs, and then we're going to torque our axle nut to 177 foot-pounds. Now, it's going to be time to get our cap back on. We want to make sure we cover this back up. Just take a peek at it and make sure it's in decent condition. If you don't see any holes in it, I would use some of this gasket maker. I'm going to come right along the area that's going to seal up against that bearing. This is going to keep the moisture out of there. That looks pretty great. Let's go ahead and get it on there. There it is. Neaten it up a little bit. Awesome.

The next thing that you would want to do is make sure you clean up the area on your rotor that's going to mate up against your wheel bearing. So, if you were to look at the backside, all right along here that's going to mate against the bearing needs to be clean. Let's use some copper never-seize right here on the hub. Let's get the rotor back up on here. Now, we're going to use one lug nut, screw it all the way on so it holds the rotor from moving around. The next thing we're going to need to do is push back the brake caliper. To do that, you can either open up this bleeder screw right here, and you take a risk, of course, breaking it either going in or out. Or you can just go ahead and turn the caliper around. I like to use a pad, and then you would just use something to squish this down and force those pistons back down and in. This is a tool that works great for the job. Just put it in here. As I crank, it's going to spread and it's going to push back those pistons. I'm going to do this nice and slow. You'll notice this is pushing in both pistons at the same time. If you tried to push in one piston at a time, more than likely the other piston is going to want to come out.

So, now we just need to take a peek along here and just double-check those boots. Make sure that they're not swollen, or pushed out, or ripped, or torn in any way, and there's definitely no leakage. These look great. So, what I'm going to do is I'm going to continue on by using a little bit of caliper grease and I'm going to go right along the mating surfaces where the caliper is going to touch directly against the brake pad. The next things that we need to do is clean up our slider bolts here and, of course, get all the thread locker off of our mounting bolts. Now that I have these cleaned up, let's continue on by installing the caliper. Let's grab our bracket and our two bolts. I like to use a little bit of thread locker on them, but we'll call it your prerogative. Go ahead and slide that in, start in those bolts, we'll snug them up, and then we're going to torque them to 139 foot-pounds. You're gonna notice that one of your pads has two of these brake wear indicators and then the other one's going to have one. The pad that has two, goes on the inside. Put the outer pad on there. Let's grab the caliper, slide it right down over here. Be careful for these boots. You want to make sure that they're lined up with the hole so the slider can go through. Perfect.

At this point, we're going to add some lubricant to the sliders. When we're going to add it, we're going to put it along here all the way up to there, but you don't need to get it up onto the threaded area. Let's go ahead and put those in there. Bottom these out. Torque them to 80 foot-pounds. The next thing that I would want to do is pump up the brake and make sure everything's functioning properly. You also pump up the brake for safety so that way there, when you get inside the vehicle after you're done with this job, you will have a brake pedal. Now that we've pumped up the brake, I just want to check that brake fluid real quick. Now, let's go ahead and get this off of here and we'll get the wheel on. Now, let's go ahead and torque our lug nuts to 140 foot-pounds. Center cap, go ahead and pop it on there.

Just take the center cap off. Use a straight blade screwdriver. Get behind here. This is 22-millimeter socket. Take the lug nuts off. Take the wheel off.

I'm gonna take these two caliper bolts out. I'm gonna use a T55 socket. I'm just gonna tap them in because this is pretty rusty. There we go. Cracked it free. Now use the gun. That one came right out. Slide those out. Take a straight blade screwdriver, just pry out on the caliper a little bit, compress the piston. Slide the caliper off. We need to flip it over. It's a good idea to attach it somehow so it doesn't fall. But if you can get it to sit right there, that's good. And just take the old brake pads off. Use an 18-millimeter socket. Take these two caliper bracket bolts off. These are normally on there pretty tight. There we go. All right, those are broken free. Take those out. Grab the bracket, slide it right off. Grab the rotor, slide it off. If it doesn't come off that easy, take a hammer and just hit in these areas. Just try not to hit the studs. Now I'm gonna use a 36-millimeter socket. Take this nut off. Take this washer off as well. This is pretty rusty. I'm just gonna spray a little rust penetrant in there. Let that soak. I'm just gonna use a punch and give it a couple taps, just to make sure this is loose. You don't wanna push it too far, just make sure the axle's separated from the hub a little bit.

Then spray the backside a little bit with some more penetrating oil. Let that soak. Disconnect the connector up top, this little tab. Just slide that. And then the other connector is gonna go down to the hub. Disconnect these. Use a trim tool. Pry up. Pop that out. You need to pop these off, like this. Or if you have trouble with it, you can just pop the retainer open and just slide these out. Sometimes these break right there, and it's just easier to open those up. Slide the wire over here. Use some needle-nose pliers, just squeeze this clip. And slide that out, outta the way.

Now I'm just gonna take these three bolts off on the backside of the knuckle. These go to the hub. I'm gonna use a 15-millimeter socket. Take those out. Just be careful near the CV boot, you don't wanna rip it. There we go. Got them all at least loosened. And take this bolt out. And this top one I can't get that out. I'm just gonna leave that in there. When the hub comes forward, then that bolt will be loose.

Now I'm gonna take a hammer and hit the hub from the backside to try to separate it from the knuckle. Sometimes these are frozen on there pretty good. And it's actually starting to move. You can grab the backing shield and just see if you can wiggle it. Spray a little bit more rust penetrant in there. The axle, a little tap. And just slide it out. And that bolt is just loose. I'm just gonna leave that right there for when I go to reinstall it. Just gonna clean up this knuckle. Just use a wire brush. Clean up some of this rust. Take this backing shield off. Gonna reuse this. If this is rusty, you can clean this up with a wire brush a little bit. I'm gonna use some anti-seize on this area so that if I ever have to take this off again, it comes off easy. Just put a little on the splines too. Slide the wire through the backing shield and install the new hub. Get it lined up. That's good. Get the bolt started. Gonna start with that top bolt. It's kinda hard to get to.

All right, with that bolt started, go ahead and take the wire. We can rerun the wire. And I can either pop that one out or just pop the new one off and reuse the old one. Screwdriver, pop that off. Lock it in place. Put that there. And we'll plug this in right there. And then reposition this, and that's good. And you get the other bolts in. And tighten these bolts up. Move this a little more. All right. Now we're gonna go back to all these bolts and torque them to 133 foot-pounds. And do the same on the other two. Put the washer on. Put the nut on. It is a good idea to replace the nut. But you can reuse it if you have to. And tighten this up. I'm just gonna put the pry bar through here, and then the other end is on the ground. That's gonna prevent the hub from spinning. And I'll torque this nut to 177 foot-pounds. That's good. Now we're gonna clean up this bracket. Just take a straight blade pocket screwdriver. Take these clips off. And there's a lot of rust underneath here. Take a wire brush, clean this up. If you have to, you can use a file. Just be careful, you don't wanna take too much material off. And then take some brake caliper lubricant and just wipe that down. Brake caliper grease there and right there. And take the new caliper slides or anti-rattle clips. Put those on there. Line it up, find the right one. Put it on there. Put a little more brake caliper grease on here, just a thin coat. Just where the pads are gonna make contact. Take a little bit of anti-seize, just go around the hub. We'll see around the center here and spread it out. Nice thin coat. Just gonna take the rotor, put it on backwards. I'm just gonna clean the surface. Use a little brake parts cleaner. And we'll wipe it with a rag with just that protective coating on there to prevent it from rusting. And flip it over, do the same on this side. And wipe it down.

Now take the old caliper bolts. I'll just put a little thread-locking compound on there. And line the caliper bracket up, goes this way. And put the bolts in. Get those lined up. And use the torque wrench, and torque these to 129 foot-pounds. Good. Now install the new brake pads. Now the warning indicator on the inside is gonna go at the bottom and just one, not one at the top. Just slide that in position. And the outside one will have both. That's good. Now I'm gonna compress the caliper. Use the caliper compressing tool. If you have to, use the old brake pad to help you. And just go slow. You don't wanna push these in too fast. This is gonna push the brake fluid through the hoses, through the lines, back up into the master cylinder. All right, those are compressed. Take the tool out. Just make sure the seals look good, the dust seals. Those look good. Now put the caliper back over the pads and line it into the bracket. Take the brake caliper pins, just use a little brake parts cleaner on them. Wipe them off. Take some brake caliper grease. Grease them up. And slide the pins back in position. Get them started. And then tighten them down. Now I'm gonna torque these bolts to these caliper guide pins to 80 foot-pounds. There we go.

And put the wheel back up. Put the lug nuts on. Now I'm gonna torque these lug nuts to 140-foot-pounds in a star pattern to tighten the wheel down evenly. And just go around again, double-check. Install the center cap. Now just pump the brake pedal. There's gonna be an air gap between the caliper piston and the brake pads. Pump that up. Just go slow. And once it feels good, then you're all set. And double-check your brake fluid level in the brake reservoir. Max line's right there. If you give it a little shake, our fluid's right about there.

You wanna keep in mind when you're doing this job, after you're done, you're gonna wanna go to a local garage and have the vehicle aligned so you don't have premature tire wear.

Take this center cap off. We'll just use a straight blade screwdriver. Just get behind here, slide it off. Get the lug nuts off. Use a 22-millimeter socket. Now take the wheel off.

Loosen up this jam nut. I'm gonna use a 7/8 wrench. And just take some rust penetrant, this thing's a little bit rusty. So let that soak a little bit. Now take a 18-millimeter socket. Take this nut off. And take a hammer and just hit the bottom of the tie rod to release it from the knuckle. Just like that. Now I'm gonna take off the tie rod. Just count how many turns you have. So 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 7, 21, 22. And write that number down. And take the outer tie rod, one, two. And then count the turns that you counted before, 3, 21, 22. Take the jam nut off. I mean, the castle nut off. And slide it in the knuckle. Slide the stud part into the knuckle. Put the nut on. Just gonna use a pry bar. Pry down on the outer tie rod end to prevent the stud from spinning. And just snug this up a little bit. It's the 18-millimeter socket. And torque this to 37-foot-pounds. And if the hole doesn't line up for the cotter pin, just tighten the castle nut until it lines up. Little more. Should be good. Put the cotter pin through. And take my cutters and just bend this over. And just trim the excess. Tighten up this jam nut. I'm gonna use a 13/16 wrench. And if you have the ability to torque it, torque it to 36-foot-pounds.

Put the wheel on. And the lug nuts. And now I'm gonna torque these lug nuts in a star pattern or cross pattern to 140-foot-pounds to tighten the wheel down evenly. And just go around again. Double-check. And put the center cap on.

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Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and the next time you need a part for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.

Start off by loosening up these 22mm lug nut covers. We'll fast forward as Don does this. Once those are all loosened up, you can pull the hub cap free. Now, you want to loosen the lug nuts preliminarily, raise the vehicle and remove them the rest of the way, unless you have air powered tools.

You want to remove these two T55 Torx bolts. We'll fast forward as Don does this. Using a large C-clamp, just put it back behind the caliper here, and the other part right here on the brake pad, and just twist this in, and this going to push your caliper piston in and make it easier to pull the caliper off. Then, just remove the C-clamp, and lift your caliper up and off. Set it aside.

Now, using a flat blade screwdriver, just pry out your brake pad, and sometimes the pad is going to be stuck in there, you can use a flat blade screwdriver and hammer to pry it free. Now you want to remove these two 18mm bolts on your caliper bracket, and you can see, we use a piece of pipe for some extra leverage here. We'll just fast forward as he breaks the other one free and removes both of these bolts. Now, slide the rotor off. We'll fast-forward here as we just remove the clips that hold the ABS harness to the frame and steering spindle, and then there's a clip that holds the harness together, so just pull the clip back and disconnect it. Now, using a flat blade screwdriver and a hammer, just pry off your hub cap. You'll need to remove the center hub nut.

A few ways to do this: you can loosen this before you take your brakes apart, have somebody hold the brakes and do it that way, or you could use a large bar and put it between the lug studs to hold it, and then you could break the bar. If you have the benefit of air tools like we do you need an impact wrench to remove it. Then remove these tree 15mm bolts. You want to just use a 15mm wrench and another wrench for some extra leverage.

You just pry out, and once you've broken it free, you can just turn it out the rest of the way with the one wrench. We'll fast forward as Don does this to other two bolts and removes all three of them. Twist the hub nut back into place just a quarter of the way, and then hammer from the back of the hub to break it free. Then remove the hub nut and pull your hub out. On the left is the old hub; on the right is the new one from 1A Auto. You can see they're identical, and they'll fit exactly the same.

Put your backing plate on to your new hub, and then push the hub back into place. Then just put those bolts back in. You may need to hammer the first one to get started. We'll just fast-forward as Don replaces the other two and tightens up all three of those. Then you want to torque those three bolts to 75 foot-pounds each. Now, remove this clip if you left your old one in, and then feed your ABS harness back into place, putting the clips back where they belong and into those brackets. Then reconnect your harness and clip it back up into place.

Replace that washer and your hub nut, and just tighten it back up into place. Push your rotor back into place, and then twist on the lug nut, and this will just hold the rotor in place. Turn the wheel and put the caliper bracket back into place, and replace those two 18mm bolts. We'll fast-forward as Don does this and tightens both of those out. Now torque both of these to 75 foot-pounds.

Now replace your brake pads and use a hammer if necessary to lightly tap that into place. Grease up your caliper bolts. Put the caliper back into place, and slide those slide bolts back in. We'll just fast-forward as Don tightens those up. You want to tighten these to about 30 foot-pounds. Replace your wheel, replace those lug nuts, and tighten them preliminarily. Lower the vehicle and tighten them the rest of the way. Torque the lug nuts in a crossing pattern to 100 foot-pounds, and torque this hub nut to 125 foot-pounds. Put the cap back in place and put it back in. Take your hub cap and just tighten up those bolt caps. After doing work on your brakes, you want to pump the brake pedal until it firms out, and then try a stop test from 5 miles per hour and ten miles per hour. Then you're all set.

We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.

Now one of the first things you're gonna wanna do before you start any job is to make sure you're safe as possible. You want to have safety glasses and hand protection at all times. The next thing you're gonna wanna do is safely raise and support your vehicle so that your wheels are off the ground. Next, if there's a center cap, remove the plastic center cap and that will expose your lug nuts. Remove all 6 using a 22-millimeter socket. Remove your wheel.

What we need to do now... Oops... What we need to do now is remove the bolts that hold the axle, so the axle comes out of the front differential. I like to use a nice long extension and a swivel. We'll remove all those bolts. Now what we need to do is get this cover off of here. You can use something as simple as a pry bar and a hammer. Just give it a couple of loving bonks. Check your cover, make sure that there's no puncture holes. Let's take off this axle nut. Get that washer out of there as well.

Put a little bit of penetrant in here. Then we're going to take our punch and our hammer and we'll give this a couple of bonks to push the axle through. Okay, that broke free. Let's move along. Let's see if we can make the axle come down. It should go below there. Pull the axle out. There it is, friends. Let's go ahead and clean down this area. Now we're just gonna clean and prep our bolts. Once they're clean, just use a little bit of thread locker on them. We're gonna grab the axle and we'll start putting it back in.

I'm just gonna use some copper never-seize, go right inside that bearing hole there. Grab that axle. Squeeze the little one through. Okay. Pull the axle up to where it needs to go, line it up, and start in your bolts. Now that we have all those started, let's go ahead and snug them up. Do it in a crisscross pattern. So now it's gonna be time to go ahead and torque those bolts. To do that, it's probably easiest if you get down close to the ground, put a bar going through your lug studs like this, and then make it so your wheel can't spin. Go ahead and torque these to 58 foot-pounds.

Every time you get the axle nut on there, you're gonna notice that it's a locking nut because it has the two squished areas. If you still wanna use a little thread locker, we'll call it your prerogative. Now let's torque this to 155 foot-pounds. Torqued. Let's clean out this area. Now we're gonna take our cap and a little bit of gasket maker. Just go right along the edge there and just make a nice seal so no moisture can get in. Start it on there.

Clean up your mess. Now let's get the wheel back up on here. Okay, now with the wheel barely on the ground, so it can't spin, we're gonna torque the lug nuts to 140 foot-pounds. Torqued. If you have a center cover, put it on there now. Now that you've finished your service, go ahead and take it for a road test and make sure you get it down to a local reputable alignment shop.

I'm gonna use a 22-millimeter socket. Take off the lug nuts so we can remove the wheel. Now remove the wheel. Now, take the axle nut off. Use a 36-millimeter socket. You can take the washer off as well. Use some pliers at the top of the sway bar link right there. And underneath, I'm gonna use a 14-millimeter socket, and just take the link out. It's a long bolt, goes straight through just like that. And take the top off just like that. Now just take a pry bar underneath here. Just raise up on the sway bar. Take the link out.

Now, we can take these bolts out. Use a 15-millimeter socket. All right. Now, you can take the axle and just pry it out a little bit. If you need to, you can use a pry bar or a screwdriver in between there. And just slide it down just like that. Now, I'm gonna push the axle out here. If you have to, you can use a hammer on that, and just slide it out. Slide the axle back in same way it came out. And slide this in position over here. I'll get all the bolts started. Now, I'm gonna torque these bolts to 58-foot-pounds. I'm gonna start on this one. And then, I'm gonna switch to the complete opposite side just to torque them down evenly. And you can use a pry bar to hold the studs from spinning. And torque the complete opposite one. And then, once you torque those, then just go around and torque the rest of them. So just take the new link apart. And just leave the washer and the bushing on this long bolt. And take the other bushing and the washer, line that up first, and then this tube goes next. Slide that bolt through, and then another washer, and the bushing. Line this up, and slide the bushing and the washer.

Pry down on the bar, and then it would help if you had someone to help you out to pry this while you're holding this and getting the nut started. All right. That's good. And then use a 14-millimeter wrench for the nut, and a 14-millimeter socket, and tighten this down. And then, you want to torque this to 89-inch-pounds. Make sure you're on inch-pounds, not foot-pounds. And put the washer back on. Put the nut back on. Now, I'm gonna torque the nut to 177-foot-pounds. I'm gonna use a prey bar to prevent the hub from spinning. There you go. Now put the tire back on, and the lug nuts. Now, I'm gonna torque the lug nuts to 140-foot-pounds in a star pattern or a cross pattern, so that it tightens the wheel down evenly.

And just go around again. Double-check.