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Part Details
TRQ brake kits are designed to restore your brake system to like-new performance. TRQ brake pads are positive molded, thermal scorched, chamfered, and utilize a multi-layer shim for enhanced performance and service life. TRQ rotors have a non-directional finish that reduces the break-in period for new rotors as well as reducing vibrations throughout the rotor’s lifecycle. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Product Features
Premium Positive Molded Brake Pads Features and Benefits
Item Condition:
New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto, I hope this how to video helps you out and the next time you need a part for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the front brakes on this 2003 Nissan Altima, it's the same process on the Altima's from 2002 to 2006. We show on the passenger side but it's the same process on the driver's side. The items you'll need for this is new brake pad and router kit from 1AAuto.com, flat blade screwdriver, 14 mm, 21 mm and 22 mm sockets and ratchet, a wire brush, a large C clamp, brake cleaner, brake grease and jack and jack stands. Start off by removing your wheel, if you don't have air power tools you are going to want loosen the lug nuts while the vehicle is on the ground and then jack it up and remove them the rest of the way. Now to inspect your brakes, you just want to look in here and you can see how much life is left on your brake pads. Ours is in pretty rough shape. Then the next thing you want to do is just check your router for any deep gouges.
You want to pry in here with a screwdriver to push the caliper piston into place, this will make it easier to remove the caliper and then you want to remove this two 14mm bolts. Then you can pull that caliper off and you want to set aside and secure it with a wire tie or something up and out of the way and then pry off the brake pads. Pry off your brake pad slides. Next you want to remove these two 22 mm bolts, you can see Don uses a piece a pipe to give him some extra leverage to help break those bolts free. Once those bolts are removed, your caliper bracket will come right off and then using a hammer you want to hit the back of your router to break it free and pull that off as well. On the right is the old router and brake pads, on the left is the new ones from 1A Auto. Using some brake cleaner, clean up your new router. Use a wire brush to just clean up your caliper bracket a little bit. Also clean up your brake pad slides. Take some brake grease and just apply it to the ends of the brake pad on these tabs. Then take your caliper bracket and make sure that these slide bolts have grease on them. If they don't, apply some. Both of ours are all set.
Now put your new router into place and put on one lug nut just to hold into place. Then take your caliper bracket and put that into place and replace those two 22 mm bolts. Then just torque these bolts to 100 foot pounds. Push your brake pad slides back into place. Push your brake pads into place and if you need to you can use a hammer, just carefully tap into place. Then bring your caliper down and using a large C clamp, you just want to twist that piston in until it's flat. In the end it should look like this. Now you can put the caliper into place and you want to put it over those slide bolts and then replace those two 14 mm bolts and torque them to about 25 foot pounds. Replace your wheel, hub caps and lug nuts. Tighten the lug nuts preliminarily, lower the vehicle and tighten them the rest of the way. Then you want to torque the lug nuts in a crossing pattern to 100 foot pounds. After doing any repair on the brakes, before taking it out onto the road it's important to do a couple of things first. First you want to just pump the brakes until the brake firms up and then you want to do a stop test from 5 miles per hour and then 10 miles per hour.
We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet.
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com. Your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how to video help you out. The next time you need a part for your vehicle think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks. In this video we show you how to replace the rear brakes on this 2003 Nissan Altima, pretty much the same for any 2002 to 2006. We show you the right hand, the left hand is the same procedure. We do always recommend you replace your brakes in pairs.
The items you'll need for this repair are new brakes pads and rotor kit from 1A Auto.com; 8, 12, 14, 19 and 21 mm sockets with a ratchet. A piece of pipe for some extra leverage. Brake cleaner, brake grease, brake fluid, jack and jack stands and a torque wrench. Raise and remove your wheel and tire. If you don't have the benefit of air tools, loosen the lug nuts with the vehicle on the ground, then raise and support it and remove the lug nuts the rest of the way. Inspect your brakes. You can look through and see the brake pads, and there's not much left to the brake pads on this vehicle and the rotor is in rough shape, pretty corroded with some large gouges. To just replace the pads you can see we took that top bolt out, but we're going to take the whole rotor off because it's actually frozen on this car.
Its two 19 mm bolts and you can see we use a 19 mm socket with a ratchet and a pipe for some extra leverage. You'll need to do this if you want to replace the rotor anyways, because you need to take the whole caliper bracket off in order to get the rotor off. Once the bolts are removed, using a flat blade screwdriver pry that off. Then you can set that aside. Your old rotor pulls right off. You want to use a flat blade screwdriver and pop this plug out of the rotor. Spray down your emergency brake assembly with some brake cleaner. Now using brake cleaner wipe down your new rotor. Then you put some brake grease on either end of your brake pads. You can see here's your adjuster for your other brake and that hole in the rotor is so you can reach the adjuster with a screwdriver. Turn it until you feel the parking brake drag on the inside a little bit; once adjusted then you can replace the plug. As we said before, our caliper was in bad shape. We ended up having to replace it, but you can ad lib along with us. You can put your caliper back in place.
Take the pads out of your caliper, and then put the caliper back in place. Put the two 19 mm bolts in place and then tighten them up to 85 - 90 foot pounds. Now you want to remove this 14 mm bolt right here. Once the bolt's removed pull your caliper back and then push, your brake pad slides into place. Once the sides are in place you can put your brake pads back in and push your caliper back into place and replace that 14mm bolt. Fast forward as we tighten that bolt back up to 25 foot pounds. - to your brake lines. Now we're going to fast forward here as Don replaces the wheel. You want to put the lug nuts on preliminarily. Lower the vehicle and tighten them the rest of the way. Now torque the lug nuts to a 100 foot pounds in a crossing pattern. After doing any repair on the brakes, before taking it out onto the road it's important to do a couple of things first. First you want to pump the brakes until the brake pedal firms up. Then you want to do a stop test from five miles per hour and then 10 miles per hour.
We hope this video helps you out; brought to you by 1AAuto.com. Your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Please feel free to call us toll free 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the internet and in person.
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...take the wheel off, we're gonna use a 21-millimeter socket. Remove the wheel.
...these two caliper bolts out, I'm gonna use a 14-millimeter socket. Loosen this one up. Loosen this one up. And take those out. Take that one out, take this one out. Now just take a screwdriver, straight blade screwdriver. Just pry the caliper out a little bit. That's just gonna compress the piston. And then slide the caliper off. You can use a hanger, and just hang it from the coil spring. Make sure there's no tension on the brake hose.
Take the brake pads off. Can use a straight blade screwdriver. Slide them out. Gonna use a 19-millimeter socket. Take these two caliper bracket bolts out. Take those bolts out. Slide the bracket right off.
All right, grab the rotor. Slide it off. If it didn't come off that easy, you can just use a hammer and hit right in those areas, and it should pop right off.
And now just take a wire brush. Just clean up the surface where the rotor's gonna sit on the hub. There's a little bit of rust here. It's a good idea to take a little copper anti-seize and just put it on the hub, just so the rotor doesn't stick to it. All right, take the rotor, put it on backwards, take a little brake parts cleaner, spray it down. Wipe it down. Flip it over. Do the same on this side.
Now we're gonna clean up the brake caliper bracket. I'm gonna take a straight blade screwdriver, just slide these pad clips off, or anti-rattle clips. Take a wire brush, just clean some of the rust off of here. And it looks good. Take a little brake caliper grease. Take one of the new clips, slide it in position, and lock it in place. And we're gonna do the same on this side, but the only thing is, these clips are a little bit different. These have these extra ears, so keep that in mind. Now, just take a little brake caliper grease and just do a nice thin coat. And, same on this side.
Now, pull the brake caliper slides out. Take a little brake parts cleaner, clean off the slide pin. Wipe it off. Can spray a little brake parts cleaner in here, and clean that out as well. Take some fresh brake caliper grease, grease up the pin. Slide it back in the caliper bracket. Make sure that's sealed properly. Do the same on the other side.
And take the brake caliper bracket, slide it in position. Put the bolts back in. And torque these bolts to 122 foot-pounds.
Now we're gonna take the new brake pads. On the outside, you're gonna have the brake pad low warning indicator on the top, and that's gonna slide in this little tab right here, just like that. Slide that on. And on the inside one, it's still gonna be on the top. And just slide it in that tab right there. It's a little bit tricky. There we go.
Now we're gonna compress this brake caliper piston. I'm gonna use a brake caliper compressing tool. Just slide it in here. If I can get the tool to work. There we go. And just compress it slowly. As you compress it, it's gonna push the fluid through the lines, back up into the master cylinder. All right, the piston's all compressed. Take the hanger off the caliper. Slide it over the brake pads. Just like that. Take the bolts, get the bolts started. Now I'm gonna torque these bolts to 20 foot-pounds.
Put the wheel back on. And the lug nuts. Now I'm gonna torque these lug nuts to 83 foot-pounds, in a star pattern, to tighten the wheel down evenly. Just go around again, double check.
And pump the brake pedal. Nice and slow. There's gonna be an air gap between the brake caliper piston and the brake pads.
And then check the brake fluid level, and adjust accordingly.
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