Kit Includes: (2) Front Sway Bar Links (2) Rear Sway Bar Links (2) Front Strut & Spring Assemblies (2) Front Lower Control Arms with Ball Joints (2) Front Outer Tie Rods (2) Rear Shock Absorbers (2) Front Inner Tie Rods
TRQ suspension kits are manufactured using premium raw materials and coatings for extended service life. Each TRQ suspension component is designed to be a direct, maintenance-free replacement to the stock unit. To extend the life of your steering and suspension components, TRQ recommends replacing components in pairs, sets, or kits. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Product Features
Application Specific Design: No modifications necessary
Anti-Corrosion Coated: Enhanced surface life
Pre-greased: No additional maintenance required
Kitted for Restored Performance: Improved road-feel and handling
Our direct fit gas-charged shock absorbers help restore your vehicle's handling and ride quality to just like new.
Replacing struts used to require specialized tools to compress, remove, and transfer the old spring and mount. Our Pre-assembled, complete strut & spring assemblies come with all new parts and make the job much quicker and easier for the do-it-yourself mechanic.
Strut & spring assembly contains:
Upper Strut Mount
Strut Bearing
Coil Spring
Boot & Bumper Kit
Gas-charged Strut
Install Tip: When replacing steering components, have a professional alignment performed afterwards. This ensures proper tracking and even tire wear.
Our steering and suspension components are pre-greased and sealed for long life and do not require the extra maintenance typically required by greaseable versions.
Item Condition:New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Chromium (Hexavalent Compounds), which is known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
FREE Shipping is standard on orders shipped to the lower 48 States (Contiguous United States). Standard shipping charges apply to Hawaii and Alaska.
Shipping is not available to a P.O. Box, APO/FPO/DPO addresses, US Territories, or Canada for this item.
Expedited is available on checkout to the United States, excluding Alaska, Hawaii.
Final shipping costs are available at checkout.
How To Replace Front Struts 2004-13 Mazda 3
How to Replace Rear Sway Bar Links 2007-12 Volvo S40
How to Replace Rear Sway Bar Link 2008-13 Mazda 3
Created on:
Tools used
13mm Socket
A Piece of Pipe (for leverage)
Torque Wrench
14mm Socket
15mm Socket
Rust Penetrant
Channel-Lock Pliers
16mm Socket
17mm Socket
Jack Stands
18mm Socket
19mm Socket
Flat Blade Screwdriver
Sledge Hammer
Ratchet
Floor Jack
1. Accessing the Strut
Remove the lug nuts
Pull the wheel free
Apply penetrating oil to the bolt holding the lower strut and the upper bolt holding the stabilizer link
Remove the clip holding the brake hose to the strut (Use a screwdriver to pry up from below)
Pull the hose free
Lock locking pliers on the backside of the stabilizer shaft
Remove the 14mm bolt
Spray the 17mm bolt holding the steering knuckle to the strut with penetrating oil
Remove the 17mm bolt using the pipe for extra leverage
2. Removing the Strut
Spray penetrating oil around the bottom of the strut
Hit the steering knuckle with a sledge hammer
Once the knuckle moves, place a piece of wood over the knuckle and hammer the rest of the way
Remove two of the bolts holding the strut from the back of the engine. Loosen the third bolt
Push down on the steering knuckle and push the bottom free
Remove the third screw up top to free the strut
3. Replacing the Strut
Line the strut up with the bolt holes up top. Replace the three bolts firm but not fully tightened
Spray penetrating oil on the strut and steering knuckle
Once its lined up but a jack underneath the knuckle and use it to force it into place
Replace the bolt holding the knuckle to the strut. (Use a torque wrench to tighten it to 80 ft/lbs)
Bring the hose down and feed it through into place. Replace the clip
Reconnect the stabilizer link. Using locking pliers on the back, thread the nut on and tight to 50-60 ft/lbs
Replace the wheel
Replace lug nuts, and tighten to 100 ft/lbs. in a star pattern
Tighten the upper strut bolts to 25ft/lbs
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Hi, I'm Don from 1A Auto. I hope this helpful video helps you out. The next time you need a part for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to be showing you how to replace the front struts on this 2007 Mazda 3 series. We'll show you the right hand side, left hand side is the same procedure and obviously we always recommend that you replace your struts in pairs. You'll need a new set of loaded struts from 1AAuto.com, jack and jack stands, 13 to 19mm sockets, ratchets and a breaker bar or pipe for some extra leverage, a couple of the bolts are pretty tough, flat blade screwdriver, locking pliers, a large hammer, 5 or 10 pound sledge, penetrating oil and a torque wrench.
Start off by removing your wheel and tire. There will be a hub cap so you'll remove the hub cap first. We have the benefit of air tools. If you're not using air tools, you'll want to loosen the lug nuts with the vehicle on the ground first then raise and support the vehicle and remove the lug nuts wheel and tire. We're going to apply some penetrating oil to the bolt that holds the lower strut and as well as the upper bolt for the stabilizer link. There is a clip that holds the break hose into the strut, now use a screw driver to pry that clip out. You can pry from the side first and then kind of pry up from below and pull the clip out.
Once you remove the clip, just pull the hose free. Now, take a pair of vise grip or locking pliers and lock it onto the back side of the stabilizer shaft and then there's a 14mm bolt and remove that with a 14mm socket and ratchet. Now, there's a 17mm bolt that holds the steering knuckle to the strut. You see I'm using a 17mm socket and ratchet and a pipe for some extra leverage to loosen up that bolt. You need to make sure that you spray that bolt with a lot of penetrating bolt beforehand to help this process along. Okay, we just shed that extra pipe and removed the bolt the rest of the way.
I'm going to coat with penetrating oil around the bottom of the strut where it goes with the steering knuckle and then use a nice, big sledge hammer and just hit the steering knuckle directly at first. Once you get it to move then put a piece of wood in just so you don't do too much damage to the steering knuckle and use the wood to hammer it the rest of the way off. There are three 14mm bolts that hold the strut in at the top, remove those. One note as we fast forward here, you want to remove two of the bolts and then just loosen up one of the bolts most of the way. You want to leave one bolt intact.
Okay, with one bolt still up top installed, push down on the steering knuckle and break the bottom free. Now, finish removing that top bolt and bring the strut down and out. Old strut on the left, new strut from 1A Auto on the right. You can see all the mounting points are the same. It's going to install just the same. Okay, ready to install the new strut. There's the stabilizer link mount that goes right to the back, easy way to line it up. Put the strut up in and then start one of the bolts on. It's just a matter of lining it up. Once you have one of the bolt holes lined up then start the bolt on. Once you get one, you can start the other two. Now, just fast forward. We're not tightening them up all the way, we're just kind of preliminarily tightening them up.
Now, we're ready to put the bottom back together, put some penetrating oil or grease in then in hope to get things together. Push the steering knuckle down. Line them up with a strut and push it in. Once you started, put a floor jack underneath the spindle and jack it up and that will force the spindle or the steering knuckle up onto the strut. Now, you can put the bolt through. It will only go through if the strut is together enough. We'll fast forward here as we just preliminarily turn or preliminarily tighten that bolt up. Now, we'll use a torque wrench and tighten that bolt up to 80 foot pounds.
Bring the hose down, feed it through and back and up into position and put the clip back in place. Then fast forward here as we put that stabilizer link back in place. Thread the nut on, put the locking pliers on the back side and tighten it up, get it nice and tight, you want it anywhere from 50 to 60 foot pounds. Then keep the speed going here as we put the wheel and tire back on. Thread the log nuts on and tighten them up preliminarily. Okay, and back on the ground we've tighten the log nuts to 100 foot pounds using a star pattern. Reinstall the wheel cover noting the position of the valve stem. Now, we're going to tighten and torque the upper bolts to 25 foot pounds and repeat all that for opposite side and we should be all set with nice new struts.
We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that here for you on the internet and in person.
Tools used
8mm Allen Wrench
Pry Bar
13mm Wrench
Tools used
6mm Allen Wrench
Torque Wrench
Locking Pliers
14mm Socket
Pry Bar
Ratchet
PSA58815
In Stock
Product Reviews
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4.36/ 5.011
11 reviews
5 Stars
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1 Star
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This kit is OK for the price.
K
April 6, 2018
For the most part this kit works fine. Shipping was good, and the parts arrived in good condition. There were no included torque specs, which I think is a big deal. But the biggest problem is that the bracket on the strut for the brake hose is to small. You have to grind or drill out the bracket to fit the hose in. It is a good price, but there are definitely some short comings with the kit.
Great service and great parts!!
L
May 18, 2018
My ordering experience was great! No problems!! And the parts were here in like 5 business days. I was impressed with how fast they came. The parts are great quality. And I will for sure order any other parts I need from here again.
Very Satisfied
T
December 27, 2018
Im very Satisfied whit the parts and the service yall guys provide i will recomend 1aauto to all my friends
Awful struts
Chad
May 31, 2019
Struts are awful... loud. Brake line bracket isn't even the right size. Front of the car sits higher than back.
They offered to replace the noisy struts, but I don't feel like going through the effort of changing them with garbage products. I'll just buy better components elsewhere.
Loved it
Z
July 8, 2019
I read previous reviews on this kit and didn't have any of the troubles mentioned. Everything went smooth when i did the installation. Parts fit great. My mazda 3 had 231xxx miles and all of these parts where original from factory so it was desperately needed. Could have been packaged a little better for shipping but nothing was lost or damaged and i got them 2 days sooner then i expected. Overall completly satisfied thank you 1a you saved my mazda from the scrapper!
Definitely recommend
Donald
October 25, 2019
Very prompt shipping, bundle deal makes everything cheap, I really like the bundle deal because you never know what you will find wrong while there, nice to have the parts to make it happen.
Stuts sway bar control arms
Alberto
February 18, 2020
Best deals I'm glad i bought all the parts works great for my car I would shop at 1aauto.com for all my parts thank you so much I appreciate it and my car does too
Love it!
Dean
January 13, 2021
It had everything that I needed, I did have to shop around to piece all of it together. It showed up on time and all together. Ive used 1aauto many times and have never been disappointed. I highly recommend this kit and anything coming from 1aauto.
Perfect!!!!
Tristan
March 25, 2021
Perfect fit, fast shipping,, and they are loyal to their word.
Nice Fit!
G
April 9, 2022
Parts fit like they should and my car handles great and rides like it should. This kit had everything I needed for the lower side of the car's suspension. I had already replaced my hubs, breaks and such stuff. Your already in there so I would recommend replacing them if you haven't already. Also, don't forget to align the front end when your done with all your work. I did my alignment the old-fashioned ways with a tape measure. Have fun and hope this helps ??
Replacing 15 year old factory parts.
Tyler
October 18, 2023
All the parts installed smoothly on my 08 Mazda 3. The online videos were a big help too!
I also replaced my wheel bearings front and rear. Huge improvement overall in the cabin noise level, and the handling is more responsive now.
Customer Q&A
Does this fit on the Mazda 3 hatchback models? I have a 2007 Mazda 3 hatchback 2.3 and would like to knowOctober 14, 2019
Maudiel R
10
This item will be able to fit for your vehicle as long as you do not have a speed model. Please let us know if you have any further questions.
October 14, 2019
Emma F
Does this have everything I need to replace my suspension? Anything Ill need to buy in addition?April 9, 2022
Kendley M
10
Hello, there is additional parts that are on your suspension, such as upper control arms, hubs, and axles.
April 9, 2022
Ricale A
10
Needs nothing. Do all brakes and fronts bearings at the same time. Struts seem to give out in -35 degrees, rides rough and clunks on rougher roads. Ride gets better as the temps rise.
April 9, 2022
D H
10
This kit was what I needed. The staff is right about hubs and such but I had already replaced the hubs, bearings and the breaks. My car rides great, feels tite and sits up like it should. Money well spent in my garage.
April 9, 2022
G B
Customer service
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