Replaces
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1A Auto Lifetime Warranty
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Part Details
TRQ suspension kits are manufactured using premium raw materials and coatings for extended service life. Each TRQ suspension component is designed to be a direct, maintenance-free replacement to the stock unit. To extend the life of your steering and suspension components, TRQ recommends replacing components in pairs, sets, or kits. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Product Features
Install Tip: When replacing steering components, have a professional alignment performed afterwards. This ensures proper tracking and even tire wear.
Our steering and suspension components are pre-greased and sealed for long life and do not require the extra maintenance typically required by greaseable versions.
Item Condition:
New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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Tools used
Once you have your vehicle safely raised and supported, you're going to remove all 5 lug nuts using a 21-millimeter. Carefully remove the wheel. Set it aside. One of the first things we have to do is break free this jam nut. Make sure you have a good grip. There we are. That broke free.
The next thing we're going to do is remove this cotter pin. Use your 18-millimeter, remove this nut. Let's take that nut, just put it back on here a couple threads. Next we're going to take a hammer and we're going to hit right here, and this is going to fall down, then that's going to prevent it from falling and potentially hurting us. There we are. It's not off of there. Okay.
When you try to turn the outer tie rod end, if it doesn't come unscrewed from the inner tie rod end, you're gonna need to hold this with some locking pliers and then try to turn this at the same time. If you're having a hard time turning it you could use a boxed end of a wrench. It's a good idea to count the turns as it comes off, 23 is what I've got for mine. Yours might differ, but it's probably approximately that.
Grab your outer tie rod end, and screw it in as many times as it took you to take off the original. Bring it up around, pull this up. Start on that neoprene locking nut. Let's bottom this out with our 18-millimeter. Let's torque this to 59 foot pounds. Make sure you snug up your jam nut. Perfect. Let's get the wheel back up on here.
Start on all your lug nuts, and then bottom them out. Now we're going to bring this down and torque it to manufacturer's best. Now with the vehicles wheel touching the ground but most of the weight of the vehicle off of it, we're going to torque these in a star pattern to 100 foot pounds. Torqued.
Tools used
Once you have your vehicle safely raised and supported, you're going to remove all five lug nuts using a 21-millimeter. Carefully remove the wheel. Set it aside. The next thing we're going to do is remove the sway bar link from right here. If you use an 18-millimeter wrench, you can come right inside the backside there and grab onto that. And then an 18-millimeter socket and remove these too. Now, it's time to take off the lower portion of the sway bar link. I'm just gonna use my 18-millimeter right there. And I'm gonna try to get my 18-millimeter socket with ratchet on the backside where the nut is. Okay.
Awesome. Just get the sway bar link in here. Put those nuts on there. Okay. Now, let's bottom these out. Use your 18-millimeter right there, 18-millimeter on this side as well, snug them up. Do the same to the lower. Let's torque this to 85 foot-pounds. Do the same to the lower one if possible. If it's not possible, just take your 18-millimeter wrench and give it a couple bonks with your rubber mallet so it's nice and snug. Let's get the wheel back up on here. Start on all your lug nuts and then bottom them out. Now, we're going to bring this down and torque it to manufacturer's specifications. Now, with the vehicle's wheel touching the ground but most of the weight of the vehicle off of it, we're going to torque these in a star pattern to 100 foot-pounds. Torqued.
Tools used
Once you have your vehicle safely raised and supported, you're going to remove all five lug nuts using a 21-millimeter. Carefully, remove the wheel, set it aside. One of the first things we have to do is break free this jam nut. Try to have a good grip. There we are, That broke free.
The next thing we're going to do is remove this cotter pin. Use your 18-millimeter, remove this nut. Let's take that nut, just put it back on here a couple threads. Next we're gonna take a hammer and we're gonna hit right here, and this is gonna fall down, the nut's gonna prevent it from falling and potentially hurting us. There we are. This nut off of there. Okay, when you try to turn the outer tie rod end, if it doesn't come unscrewed from the inner tie rod end, you're gonna need to hold this with some locking pliers and then try to turn this at the same time. If you're having a hard time turning it, you could use a boxed end of a wrench. It's a good idea to count the turns as it comes off. Twenty-three is what I've got for mine. Here's my differ, but it's probably approximately that. Now I'm gonna hold my pliers. Use a 22-millimeter socket on this right here. Try to get the jam nut out of the way.
Next we're going to get the bellows boot off of here, to do that there's going to be a clamp of some sort on this side, and a clamp of some sort on this side. Now we're going to give the bellows boot a tug, and try to get it right off this inner tie rod end. At this point, you want to check the bellows boot, make sure it's not ripped or torn in any way. Or of course, if it's overly stiff that might become an issue. If you happen to take a peek inside, and you see it's full of fluid, more than likely if it came from inside of your power steering rack right here, in which case you would need to replace the power steering rack.
Here we go. Gonna grab onto this inner tie rod end with my pliers, get to the right size, turn it counterclockwise. There we are, take this right off of here.
There it is. Time to get ready for an install. I put on a tiny bit of thread-locker. I used the lube that was included with the inner tie rod end. I put it all inside that ball and socket, and then just a little bit of lube down on these threads over here. You can also use some Never-Seez. It's bottomed out. Grab this with my pliers, make sure I have a nice good handle on it. Give it a little snug. About halfway up your inner tie rod end, you're gonna be able to feel this little groove. You want to make sure you put a little bit of that lube from your packet right there as well. When we put the bellows boot on, this is gonna slide all the way down, and then that's where this is gonna sit. You want to make sure that you have lube there, that's gonna help the alignment technician down the road.
Okay, and everything flowing, that feels good. Make sure you put a clamp here and a clamp right there.
Tiny bit of copper Never-Seez doesn't hurt. This jam nut, and put it down probably about halfway or a little bit further. Grab your outer tie rod end and screw it in as many times as it took you to take off the original. Bring your knuckle around, pull this up. Start on that neoprene locking nut. Let's bottom this out with our 18-millimeter. Let's torque this to 59-foot-pounds. Make sure you snug up your jam nut. Perfect. Let's get the wheel back up on here. Start on all your lug nuts and then bottom them out. Now we're gonna bring this down, and torque it to manufacturer's specifications.
Now with the vehicle's wheel touching the ground, but most of the weight of the vehicle off of it, we're gonna torque these in a star pattern to 100-foot-pounds. Torqued.
