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TRQ brake kits are designed to restore your brake system to like-new performance. TRQ brake pads are positive molded, thermal scorched, chamfered, and utilize a multi-layer shim for enhanced performance and service life. TRQ rotors have a non-directional finish that reduces the break-in period for new rotors as well as reducing vibrations throughout the rotor’s lifecycle. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
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Premium Positive Molded Brake Pads Features and Benefits
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WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
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This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks.
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the rear brake pads and rotors in this 2008 Dodge Ram. This procedure is similar for Dodge Ram 1500s from 2002 to 2010, excluding Mega Cabs.
You'll need new pads and rotors from 1AAuto.com, 10-22 millimeter sockets with a ratchet and extensions, a breaker bar, pry bar or large flat-blade screwdriver, a hammer, wire brush, brake cleaner, brake grease, vise grip pliers, a torque wrench, and jack and jack stands.
With the vehicle on the ground, using the 22-millimeter socket and a breaker bar, break the lug nuts for your wheel loose. These chrome lug nuts tend to be swollen, so make sure your socket's on there good. Once your lug nuts are loose, raise and support the vehicle with the jack and jack stands. This wheel and tire assembly, being a big off-road tire and 20-inch wheel, it's going to be real heavy, so we're only going to bring it up a little bit when we take it off. Remove the wheel and tire from the hub.
Remove the two 10 millimeter bolts for the caliper slides. Using the small pry-bar or a large flat-blade screwdriver, pry the caliper out of the bracket and off of the pads. You'll have to start on the bottom, as there's a retainer hook on the top side of the caliper that you'll have to pivot the bottom out, pull down, and then pry the top out to remove. Rest that up on the leaf spring while we finish removing our brake components.
Using the 21 millimeter socket and ratchet, remove the two bolts securing the caliper bracket to the rear axle. Our rear rotor is frozen onto the hub in the rear axle. You'll want to make sure that your e-brake shoes are spun down if they're contacting the inside of the rotor. In this case, ours aren't touching, so we're going to hit the sides to free the inner brake shoes from the hat of the rotor, as well as the front to free it from the hub, being careful not to hit and damage the studs. While hitting it head on may seem counterproductive, the shock will break all the rust loose around the center and the wheel studs.
Here we have our old rotor and pads that we removed from the rear of our truck, as well as our new Nakamoto replacement parts available exclusively at 1AAuto.com. Our new parts are made to strict OEM specifications using the same types of casting materials as the original equipment manufacturer does. They're built to the exact same specifications. They're a very high quality part and a great value replacement for your vehicle.
Using a small steel wire brush, remove any surface rust and scaling from the hub and the hub center before reinstalling your rotor to make sure that it sits on there flat and doesn't rust back onto the hub. Install your rotor onto the hub backwards, and spray it down with some brake parts cleaner. This will remove the cosmoline coating that's put on brake rotors at the factory to keep them from rusting in storage.
Put some brake grease onto the tip of your finger, and coat the contact surface of the hub. Be sure to keep this grease off of the threads on your studs. Otherwise, it can affect your wheel torque when we reinstall the wheel. Just a thin coating is fine. This is just to keep corrosion from building up to make sure that our brake rotor comes off easily next time we have to replace our brakes.
Carefully install your rotor. Clean that surface down with some more brake parts cleaner. Carefully remove the brake caliper slide hardware from the caliper carrier. Clean the contact surface with the steel brush. Now you don't have to make this spotlessly clean, but you do want to remove most of the heavy buildup, corrosion, and scaling to ensure that that hardware, whether you'll be cleaning it up or replacing it, sits nice and flat. Once you get the majority of the scaling off, repeat this process on the opposite end. Depending on how badly corroded your brake slides are, you can either buy new ones or you can clean them up with a wire brush.
Clean up all the contact points on both sides. Snap them back on. Grease the contact points on the pad where it's going to touch into the caliper bracket. After greasing your brake pad, install it into the caliper bracket on the back side because you can't do this on the vehicle. Make sure it's as far out as you can get it. Install the caliper bracket back onto the truck. Install your two 21 millimeter bolts. Tighten them down with a 21 millimeter socket and ratchet, then torque to 100 foot-pounds.
Apply grease to the same contact points on your outside pad. Install this into the carrier. Apply a thin coat of grease to the shim on the back side of each pad. This is to keep the contact points where the caliper's going to compress the pads together from making noise or developing corrosion, and possibly seizing onto each other. We're going to push the slides out of the caliper all the way one way, pop the boot off. Go ahead and push them right through there. You may need a pair of Groove Lock or slip-jaw pliers. Finish removing that. Apply a thin coat of brake grease to these slides as well. This will keep them from seizing in the bore, moving smoothly and making sure our caliper rides where we want it to be. Work it back into the boot. Press it through. Make sure the boot clips back onto the grooves in the end. Repeat this step for the other pin.
Using a pair of Groove Lock pliers, carefully compress the piston back into the caliper. We want to do this slowly to make sure that we don't force any fluid in, or possibly blow a seal. It shouldn't take much pressure. If it does or it won't move, your piston is likely seized. You'll have to replace the caliper as well. Reinstall the caliper onto the carrier bracket.
Reinstall your two 10 millimeter bolts. Tighten these bolts with a 10 millimeter socket and ratchet. Torque to 22 foot-pounds.
Start your lug nuts by hand. Tighten the lugs as far as you can. Remember to bring the wheel down evenly, and always tighten in a cross pattern. Once the lugs are as tight as you can get them with the tire in the air, put partial weight of the vehicle on the ground by lowering it off your jack stands. Torque your lug nuts to 135 foot-pounds in a cross pattern.
Thanks for tuning in. We hope this video helped you out. Next time you need parts for your car, please visit 1AAuto.com. Also check out our other helpful how-to and diagnosis videos.
Tools used
Tools used
Tools used
Now I'm gonna remove the wheel. Take a 22-millimeter socket, remove the lug nuts. And pull the wheel off. Now, we're gonna take the brake caliper off. Use a 12-millimeter socket and take these two caliper bolts off. And grab the caliper. I'm gonna have to wiggle it back and forth a little bit and slide it out. Use a brake caliper hanger and attach it to the coil spring or somewhere that the brake hose is not being pulled on too hard. And just take a straight blade screwdriver, pry out the brake pads. I'm gonna take a 21-millimeter socket and take the caliper bracket bolts off. Pull those bolts off and slide the bracket back.
Now take a hammer and just tap on the rotor in those locations. Make sure you don't hit the studs. Now it's loose from the hub itself, but the brake, the parking brake shoes are holding me up a little bit, so I've got to loosen those up. On the backing shield, there's this little window right here, there's a rubber grommet. Just take your screwdriver, take that off. On the passenger side, this is on the bottom. On the driver's side, it's on the top. And then there's a little wheel right there that it's like a star wheel, it's the adjuster. You can take a screwdriver and just find something that fits or a brake spoon is what they call this. And then to tighten this up, you're gonna go and turn the wheel up just like this. You can grab the rotor and slide it right off.
Now you wanna clean the hub surface. Just use a wire brush or a die grinder. Just clean up some of the rust. I'm gonna take the rotor, put it on backwards first. Take some brake parts cleaner and just clean the rotor. Use a rag, wipe it off. Put the rotor around. Same on this side. And now we wanna adjust this up a little bit. Just us a little...either a screwdriver or a parking brake tool and just tighten it up. I just want it tight enough so that it just drags a little bit. That might be a little too tight. I'm just gonna loosen it. And you can always adjust it later. If it's not tight enough, tighten it up. And take this little cover. Just use a screwdriver or a pick and just insert that. That's good.
Now I'm gonna take the clips off. Take a wire brush, just clean off this area. Do the same on the other side. And take some brake caliper grease and just put it on this point and same on the other side. I'm gonna take these pad clips or pad slides, press that there. Same on this side. Now take the bracket and slide it in position over the rotor. Put the bolts back in. You can put some thread locker adhesive on these if you want to. And then torque these bolts to 132 foot-pounds.
You can put a little grease just where the pads are gonna slide on the slides. That's good. And take the pads themselves, line those up. Do the same on the inside, just like that. Now, take the brake caliper off the hanger. Before we compress the caliper, we have these slide caliper slides. You just take a screwdriver and push these through. Slide those out, clean these off with a little bit of brake parts cleaner, and wipe them down. Take a little brake caliper grease and grease them up. And if they were extremely dirty, you could take these and clean these out in here, but these weren't too bad so I'm just gonna take a little grease, slide those in there, and slide it back in. That's good. And then you can do the same for the other side. Now we wanna compress the caliper, slide the compressor tool in there, and slowly compress the caliper.
All right. Now that the piston's all the way in, now on the passenger side, you're gonna start with the caliper on the top and fold it down. And on the driver's side, it's gonna be opposite, and put the bolts back in and get those started. And then torque these bolts to 24 foot-pounds. And put the tire back up, and the lug nuts. Now, we're gonna torque the wheel, tighten this down to 130 foot-pounds in a star pattern so you tighten the wheel down evenly. Now you wanna pump the brake pedal nice and slow. There's gonna be an air gap between the brake caliper, piston, and the brake pads. And once it feels good, that's good. And you wanna double-check the brake fluid reservoir. Make sure you have plenty of brake fluid. Make sure it's up to the max line. Adjust accordingly.
Tools used
Okay, friends, before we get started, let's talk about some hand and eye protection. With that said, go ahead and raise and support the vehicle and then remove all five of your lug nuts and pull the wheel off.
Now that we have the wheel off, we have a clear view of our brakes and the caliper. I'm going to use a nice pry bar, I'm going to come in through the slot and I'm going to try to push back that caliper piston by prying up against the pad/rotor. That feels good. This can move around a little bit. Now, we're going to remove our two caliper slider bolts. Right here and right there. Go ahead and grab onto that caliper, give it a nice wiggle, and remove it. Now, you want to look at this caliper piston area right here and make sure you don't see any moisture. If you see moisture, it's probably brake fluid, in which case, you have to replace your caliper. I also like to give your sliders right here a little push, see if they move. These ones are very frozen, so they're going to be an issue, but we're going to deal with those anyway. Let's set this aside for now. All right. Next, let's remove our caliper bracket bolts, you have one here and one below it, using a 21-millimeter socket. There is our bracket.
The next thing we need to do is remove the rotor. If it's stuck on, just go ahead and take one of your lug nuts, start it on the stud for safety, and now we're going to continue on by bonking along the rotor to try to break it free. There we are. There it is. Now, let's continue on to cleaning this up. I like to have a nice collection bucket to collect any of my chemicals that I'm going to be using. Put it right down on the ground. We're going to try to spray behind this hub area right here because that's where your adjuster is right there. And then, of course, the pivot's going to be down here. So, spray it down. Clean up the surface where your rotor is gonna mate onto. Okay. So, now that we have this nice and cleaned up, let's continue on by using our wire brush along this area right here. You want to make sure you have all the debris out away from this area. Continuing on, at this point, you definitely want to make sure that your emergency brake's working as it should.
So, if you want it to get into the vehicle or get under the vehicle and pull on the e-brake cable, you'd want to make sure that this lower area of your shoes separates a little bit and then retracts. If for some reason when you step on the e-brake maybe it separates and then you release it it doesn't retract, that means that you have to take off your e-brake shoes and free up your e-brake pivot. If it works like it should, I just hit it with a little bit of penetrant/lubricant just to help it along down the line. And then if you were to look up along the top here, you're going to be able to see a little star wheel. That's where the adjustment is. So, I like to hit that with some penetrating as well. And then, of course, this end over here, where it's going to just kind of spin in. Let that sit and do its job and we can move along. Looking down along the top area right here, you're going to see a little rubber boot that comes through the backing plate. I like to just go ahead and push that out now, and we'll set that up here so we can use it later.
Now, we're going to use a little bit of copper never-seize, just kind of coat this hub area where the mating surfaces. Let's clean up the rotor braking surface. Don't forget about this area in here. That's where the emergency brake shoes are gonna ride. Real quick to show you how the adjuster works before we go ahead and put the rotor on there, I'm just going to take my little pry bar, come through that slot in the backing plate, and then as I pivot it, you're going to be able to see this move. By pushing down on my bar and lifting this so it's going around in this direction, that's going to be expanding the shoes. And if I go in the opposite direction, it'll contract the shoes. Let's go ahead and get this rotor on here. Now, at this point is the best time to go ahead and adjust that e-brake. When you do that, you want to make sure that you don't have the rotor sitting off-kilter or at least at an angle, and it's easiest to do it while the caliper's off as it is now. Go ahead and use your bar, come from the backside, and start adjusting that. You want to continue spinning this at the same time as you do it, and you want to just kind of listen till you hear a slight amount of drag.
The teensiest bit, that means that it's touching and that means that it's close enough. If you have a bunch of drag and/or it's too hard to be able to turn this, you know you went too far. Now that we have it properly adjusted, let's go ahead and make sure we put our boot back in. Now, we made our way over to the bench and we need to start stripping down this caliper bracket. Let's go ahead and get the pads out of there. That was frozen in pretty good. Get these tins off of here. Perfect. Now, we need to clean these down. Make sure they're perfectly clean so there's no debris or buildup on them. Okay. So this looks great. I did both sides. Let's continue on with a little bit of caliper grease. I'm going to coat all those areas that I just cleaned down. Perfect. So, now looking at your tins, you're going to notice that they're different. You might find that if you took two out of the package, they look identical. If that's the case, you need to go ahead and grab one of the other ones. Because essentially what you need to find is if you hold them both so they have the little flippy-dos coming off to the side, you're going to have one with a long area here and then the other one will have a long area on the other side.
Now, let's go ahead and install our tins. I'm just going to put it on just like this. And if you were to look at it, you can see that I have this little dimpled-out area right there facing towards the front, okay, or outward. I'm gonna do the same thing on this one. And you can see I have the dimpled area facing towards me, which would be the outward position. Okay. So, now let's make our way back over to the vehicle and we need to deal with these sliders. Like I said before, they're kind of stuck in there. If they're frozen, you might need to peel back the boot a little bit, put a little bit of penetrating in there, let it sit for a second. Otherwise, if you didn't want to go through that, give it a couple of loving bonks with your hammer. Just see if it breaks free. If it does like ours is, I'm just gonna work it back and forth a couple of times. And then I can go ahead and use a punch and continue driving it through. Do the same thing to the other one. And it's actually working really good. Let's go ahead and pull out these sliders at this point.
Now, we need to perform a quick inspection on it. You want to make sure it's not rusted or rotted in any way that's going to cause it to be stuck inside this area. You also want to double-check up inside the groove up here and one right there and just make sure it doesn't have any crud inside there as well. That's where the boot's gonna ride. It needs to make perfect contact so moisture can't get in. Now, I like to take a nice rag and I'll put it up inside the boot right here. Give the boots a couple of little squishes around there. Try to get out any grease or debris that might be still left inside. Do the same thing to the other one. Take a little bit of grease and go right inside that boot. Put as much right in there, get down into here as much as possible. That feels good. Go ahead and grab your slider. Put a nice coating on that as well. Just keep in mind that the majority of this is probably going to get pressed off of there. That's why I tried to put some grease right inside actually. I'm going to make sure I get inside the lip right here. And then once I get it down far enough, I'll make sure I get inside this lip as well. Now, let's go ahead and start this in there. There we are. And start pushing it in.
There we are. Perfect. This can move around nice and free. If you happen to find that your sliders just don't want to move inside there even though you just cleaned and lubed everything, what you'd probably want to do is take the slider back out, and then you fully remove the boot from inside the caliper. You'll notice that there's probably a rust or rot buildup inside this area. Clean that up, put your boot back in, re-lubricate everything, and then down the road you go. Now it's going to be time to clean up the threads on our mounting bolts. It's time to put on our caliper bracket. I've got my two caliper bolts with a little bit of thread locker on them. Bottom them out and torque them to 100 foot-pounds.
So, now we're just gonna push in our caliper piston so it's all the way bottomed out. Let's take a little bit of that caliper grease, just go right along the piston area. And, of course, along both these forked ends, which is where the pads are going to be touching up against. Now, it's gonna be time to install our brand new pads. That's one. Same with this one. Up on the tabs, squeeze them in. Perfect. Now it's going to be time to install our caliper. Pay attention to this area right here. That needs to kind of hook in underneath this area of the caliper bracket. So, as you come in, come at a slight angle, put it down and under there, and then rock it right in. Perfect. Start in your slider bolts. Now, let's go ahead and snug these up, and then we're going to torque them to 22 foot-pounds.
All right. Let's get the wheel on here, center cover, start on your lug nuts. We're going to bottom them all out, and then we'll torque them to 130 foot-pounds. All right. With the wheel touching the ground, now it's time to torque these. Torqued. Just keep in mind that the process for the other side would be the same as this side. Okay, friends, so now all that's left is to go ahead and pump up that brake pedal so it's nice and firm, and then go ahead and check that brake fluid. After that, take it for a road test.
Tools used
Tools used
Now I'm gonna remove the wheel. Take a 22-millimeter socket and remove the lug nuts. And pull the wheel off. Now we're gonna take the brake caliper off. Use a 12-millimeter socket and take these two caliper bolts off. And grab the caliper. You might have to wiggle it back and forth a little bit. And slide it out. Use a brake caliper hanger and attach it to the coil spring or somewhere that the brake hose is not being pulled on too hard. And just take a straight blade screwdriver, pry out the brake pads. Now take a 21-millimeter socket and take the caliper bracket bolts off.
Pull those bolts off and slide the bracket back. Now take a hammer and just tap on the rotor in those locations. Make sure you don't hit the studs. Now it's loose from the hub itself, but the brake the parking brake shoes are holding me up a little bit so I got to loosen those up. On the backing shield, there's this little window right here. There's a rubber grommet. Just take your screwdriver, take that off. On the passenger side, this is on the bottom. On the driver's side, it's on the top. And then, there's a little wheel right there that if...it's like a star wheel, that's the adjuster. You can take a screwdriver and just find something that fits or a brake spoon, it's what they call this. And to tighten this up, you're gonna go and turn the wheel up. Just like this. And grab the rotor and slide it right off.
Now we need to remove these clips that hold the shoes on. I'm just gonna use a right-angle pick. Just get underneath the clip. Then I'm just gonna use a trim tool and just push down on this side of it as I slide the clip up. I'm just gonna take it off the pin. Just like that. And just try to pry this out a little like that. And do the same on the other side. Now I wanna get this adjuster out under here. It's kinda hard to get that spring off with the adjuster on there. So, I'm just gonna take two pry bars and just pry this out and just hopefully the adjuster will fall. There we go. Then with the shoes closer together, then the spring just comes out pretty easily. Grab the spring. Ther's the adjuster just fell out. And slide the spring out. Now there's two springs, there's a spring on the front side and a spring on the backside. And what you're gonna do is just try to get this off of out of this bracket right here. So, I'll use a pry bar and a screwdriver. Just try to pry this out a little bit. Same on this side.
There we go. Pop that spring out. And the other spring, let's pop that one out as well. There's that one. And here's that front shoe and the springs. So these springs, one spring goes on the backside, one spring goes on the front side like that. I'm gonna take these pins out. I am gonna re-use them because I don't have a hardware kit, but I just need to take them out. It's just gonna make putting the new shoes on easier. Put those aside and just take a wire brush and just any of the surface where the shoes touch the backing plate. Just clean those up a little bit. You could put a little grease on there if you want to. Now take the new shoes. Now, there is a top and a bottom and it's gonna be the opposite on the driver's side. There you go like that. So, for this side, this arch area it's gonna go on the top for both shoes.
Now, we want this spring we're gonna put both springs on before and we want one of the springs to end up behind here. So it has to go in behind there. So, it's a little tricky to get it in there. So hook that on right there and then there. The other spring you put it on the outside, right there and right there. So, these are together like this. Now what I'm gonna do is take the shoes and just go like this and then just rotate. This makes it easy, easier. And then take the shoe, and it has to go in between here and here. Just make sure that other spring doesn't pop out. And it's good like that. And then I'll take a screwdriver and just pry this one out, just like that. And there we go. Those are in position. And check your adjuster. If the adjuster doesn't move too easily, you wanna take it apart and just clean those threads up and then put some lubricant on those. This one moves pretty good. Now, I'll just put a little grease on here, just on the threads. To make putting the pins in a little easier, I'm just gonna put this adjuster in. Just pry this apart. You could use a pry bar if you want. That's lined up right there. Now take the pins, sometimes they call these nails. And then going from the back of the shield. And just get it lined up through the shoe. Now I'll just take this retainer and slide it up through here. And I'm sure they have special installers to put these on, but use what you can. I'm just gonna use this trim tool. There we go. It might take a little bit of effort. It's not too bad. Do the same on this other one.
Now I need to put this spring in, but it's gonna be very difficult to get that spring in with the adjuster in there. So, what I'm gonna do is just spread these shoes apart, take the adjuster out temporarily. And I can take the spring, push the shoes together. I'm just gonna use a screwdriver or a tool, get the spring lined up, so that's in there good. Now we can put the adjuster back in position. Just get it past the spring. I have to turn the hub a little bit. Now I'm gonna use two pry bars. Just pry this out a little bit and push the adjuster in place.
Just like that. Now you wanna clean the hub surface. Just use a wire brush or a die grinder. Just clean up some of the rust. And now take your rotor and slide that on. And now we wanna adjust this up a little bit. Just use a little, either a screwdriver or a parking brake tool, and just tighten it up. Just want it tight enough so that it just drags a little bit. That might be a little too tight. I'm just gonna loosen it. And you can always adjust it later. If it's not tight enough, tighten it up. And then take this little cover. Just use a screwdriver or a pick and just reinsert that. That's good. Now take the bracket and slide it in position over the rotor. Put the bolts back in. You can put some thread locker adhesive on these if you want to and then torque these to 132 foot-pounds. You can put a little grease just where the pads are gonna slide on the slides. That's good. And then take the pads themselves. Line those up. Do the same on the inside. Just like that. Now take the brake caliper off the hanger. Now we wanna compress the caliper and slide that compressor tool in there and slowly compress the caliper.
All right. Now that pistons all the way in, now on the passenger side, you're gonna start with the caliper on the top and fold it down and on the driver's side, it's gonna be the opposite. And put the bolts back in and get those started. And then torque these bolts to 24 foot-pounds. And then put the tire back up and the lug nuts. Now we're gonna torque the wheel, tighten this down to 130 foot-pounds in a star pattern so you tighten the wheel down evenly. Now you wanna pump the brake pedal nice and slow. There's gonna be an air gap between the brake caliper piston and the brake pads. And once it feels good, that's good. And you wanna double-check the brake fluid reservoir. Make sure you have plenty of brake fluid. Make sure it's up to the max line. Adjust accordingly.
