Chevrolet GMC Cadillac 2 Piece Distributor Cap & Rotor Kit DIY Solutions IGN00270

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Hi, I'm Mike Green. I'm one of the owners of 1AAuto. I want to help you save time and money repairing and maintaining your vehicle. I'm going to use my 20 plus years experience restoring and repairing cars and trucks like this to show you the correct way to install parts from 1aauto.com. The right parts installed correctly. That's going to save you time and money. Thank you, and enjoy the video.

In this video we're going to show you how to replace the distributor cap and rotor on this 2000 Chevy Blazer with a 4.3L, same as a lot of the different vehicles. A lot of different GM vehicles with the 4.3L V6. The only tools you'll need on this vehicle are a T15 and T20 torque drivers. Those are screws with the little star-shaped heads, and you'll see what I mean in the video.

We're looking at the battery here and then the engine. Your distributor cap is right in behind the center. You can see I've done a little work here already. I've wiped down the ends of the plug wires, and I've labeled them with numbers that correspond to the numbers on the cap: five, one, three, five, one, and three, and then two, four, and six, and then the coil for C. Once you have these marked, what you want to do is twist them, and then pull. They are never that easy to get off. So you pull all of them off. Just make sure you mark them first so you know where to put them back on.

Due to the congestion over here, what I'm going to do is actually I'm going to unbolt the cap first. You can see one of the bolts is right there. It's a T20 torques bit. Then just opposite this indent right here, that's where the other screw is and I can't really get the camera down in there. You want to remove those two T20 Torx screws. Here's my T20 Torx driver.

I am going to fast forward through just removing those screws. One thing, just make sure you do not drop them. Be very careful as you're taking them out that you don't drop them down and behind and lose them. Now that I have the cap up, I can pull it clear of these hoses a little bit. Get a better grip on these wires to pull them. There's my cap. You can see how these contacts are burnt somewhat. That's an indication that this has got some wear on it. Now with that cap out of the way, you can see here is our rotor. It's got two T15 screws holding it on. Again, we'll fast forward through here. Again, just make sure you don't lose those screws.

Those screws fall out, and here's the cap, and it too has got some definite wear on the contact there. So here's my new rotor, and it actually has two pins next to the screws. There's another locating pin right here that correspond. So you can really only put it on one way. Just make sure it goes on and down nicely. So there's our new rotor installed, new cap, coil wire. The one with the four goes onto the passenger side. I'm just going to make sure that I don't have any wires in the way. Set the cap down on. And it has a flat spot on here so that it can also only go on one way. Now take our T20 screws. Be very careful not to drop them.

Make sure the cap is on there nice and firm. The new cap has a little bit smaller numbers, but still you can see there's three, one, and five. Obviously make sure you push them all the way on. Over here you got six ... four ... that's two. Then our coil wire. Let's see. Where did he go?

So now it should be ready to fire up. We hope this helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the internet.

All right, friends. To get started, we need to obviously access the rear area of the engine. To get to that, let's get this right out of the way. There's going to be a 10-millimeter headed bolt straight down right here. Go ahead and remove that. Ours is broken. So, we're not necessarily worried about it. After that, we're gonna loosen up this clamp and get this right off. Set this aside. Now that that's out of the way, we have a nice, clear view of our distributor. That's located right here.

You're gonna see that you have eight spark plug wires going to it. And then, you're gonna have one coil wire that goes to it as well. We need to make sure that we mark those wires so we can remember exactly where they go to on the distributor. They don't necessarily have to be in any particular order, in exception of just however you can remember. So, I'm just gonna go ahead and mark this one with a one, or at least one line. The next one, two lines. Next one, three lines. And like I said, This isn't the firing order. This is just so I can remember where to put them back.

Now that we have all our wires clearly marked, let's go ahead and start pulling them off of here. There's going to be two mounting bolts on this, one on the forward end and one on the back right there. Let's go ahead and loosen those up, and we'll get this cover off of here. Okay, let's carefully lift this up. Okay, friends. Now, it's gonna be time to get our brand new cap on here. We want to make sure we have both of our small mounting bolts.

When we put on the cap, we want to make sure that we have the area that has the coil wire facing towards the passenger side. Now carefully set this on here. We want to make sure that the bolt holes line up. We'll start in both of the bolts and then, we'll snug them up. All right. So once you have these things so they're bottomed out, you just want to go ahead and torque them down to 21-inch-pounds. Now the next thing we need to do is use a little bit of dielectric grease. And you can either use this on the wires directly, or you can go right along the cap right here.

Essentially, what we want to do is just get it so it's along the electrode and along the outside of the prongs, all the way along the cap. We're gonna do all these areas. And then, we'll continue. Now it's gonna be time to get the wires back on here. We wanna make sure that we install these in the same order as we removed them. Make sure they're all the way on. So for the passenger side, I'm gonna start with the coil wire. That one's very different from all the rest. Just kinda slide that on there.

After that, I'll continue on with the rest of the wires. Making sure that I put them on in the same order that I removed them. Okay, friends. Now it's time to get this back on here. Just something I'm gonna mention real quick is you're gonna have your clamp. And then, over on this side, you should have that mounting bolt. Ours was broken. So, I don't necessarily have the bolt. But I'm just gonna go ahead and slide this on here. Line it up so the mounting bolt's here. Go ahead and start that in. We're gonna move along to snugging this up.

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In this video, we're going to be working with our 1996 GMC Sierra K1500. We're going to show you how to replace your distributor cap and rotor. This is an important part of the tune-up process. If your plugs and wires are bad, it's worth going in there and taking a look at this because ours was loaded with corrosion and probably a good part of the reason that a vehicle doesn't run right.

This video is on a 5.7L V8, but will be very similar to a variety of other GM engines. If you like this video, please click Subscribe. We have a ton more information on this and many other vehicles. If you want these parts for your truck, you can follow the link down in the description over to 1AAuto.com.

Here are the items you'll need for this repair: flat blade screwdriver, T15 Torx driver, T20 Torx driver

Remove the thumb screw on the top of the intake track at the throttle body. This can be done by hand, or if yours is stuck you can lightly grab it with a pair of pliers and rotate it that way. Disconnect the rubber elbow on your PVC breather and loosen this hose clamp with a flat-blade screwdriver. Now, you could disconnect the electrical connectors, undo the air box and remove this all as one piece if you want, depending on what you're trying to get room for. However, this is all that's necessary for what we're trying to do.

Undo the boot, lift up and forward, and remove the upper intake.

The distributor cap is located at the back of the engine behind the upper intake manifold. It's secured with two T20 Torx bolts, which you can remove with a screwdriver, like we're going to, or a Torx socket and ratchet. Now, it's very important that your plug wires go on in the same way they came off. They are numbered, so you could look it up, but that's a little more difficult.

What we're going to do is if you look, the wire looms have these locked in the right position, so we're just going to unplug them and let them hang knowing that we can plug then back in in the same order and not have an issue. These do tend to get stuck on there, especially if they've been on there a while, so you may have to work them a bit to get them off. Just make sure you pull from the boot and not the wire because tearing or breaking it could cause misfire. On the passenger side, you'll notice this lone wire over here that's not in a wire loom, marked C. This is for your ignition coil. It'll be the only wire not out of a loom. If you follow it, it comes out of your ignition coil, which is located right over here, so that's an easy one to keep track of. Once all your plug wires are off, you can remove your two T20 Torx screws. You can now remove your distributor cap.

Now, normally when doing a distributor you'll do your rotor as well. It's very important to know which way the contact on the rotor is facing. Ours is at about the 7 o'clock position. It's facing the number two cylinder, which is going to be the front passenger cylinder, so we know where that's going to go. We'll now remove these two T15 Torx screws. We’re going to use a Torx screwdriver for this. You can use a Torx socket and ratchet if you prefer. Now, these are very tiny screws, and I don't want to lose them. Once they're loosened up, I'm just going to leave them sitting in their holes in the rotor, so I can lift it all out as one piece and take the screws out then. It looks like they're loosen out to me. Now, we'll lift up and remove our rotor from the distributor.

Here we have our old distributor cap and rotor that we removed from our vehicle and our new parts from 1AAuto.com. Now, you can see these parts are exactly the same. Our new parts even come numbered with which plug wire is going to go where, which is going to make this a lot easier to install.

We also have a new rotor with the same two-bolt mounting location which has the same alignment tabs on the bottom. Now, you can see our olds one's got some pretty nasty corrosion building up here. It's got that greenish tarnish color on the contact here. There's also a bunch of debris on the inside and some rust at the end here. That's kind of bent down where you can see this is pointing up and nice and springy on the new one, nice clean metal. Same two-bolt mount location on your distributor cap. If you flip it over, the difference is clear. Nice clean contacts here. No debris. No buildup.

On this one, you knock the corrosion off with your fingers. It's just really contaminated and dirty. It's not going to give us a good spark, and it's not going to let our engine run to its full efficiency. This means we're going to get less power. We're not going to get as good of a burn, which makes our vehicle less efficient as well, and it could also cause misfires and more serious issues with our engine. If your vehicle's misfiring and plugs and wires weren't quite enough to get it back up and running the way you would expect, these new parts from 1A Auto are going in direct fit just like your original equipment, get you a good strong spark and fix you up right.

Reinstall the rotor onto your distributor in the same way you removed it. There are little alignment tab's there as well but you could put it 180 out. We already know that ours was facing the 7 o'clock position the way we're looking at it now. We'll reinstall our screws with a T15 Torx driver, whether you're using a socket and ratchet or a screwdriver, either way. Reinstall your distributor cap, lock into place once it goes on. It only fits one way. Then, we'll reinstall our two T20 Torx screws. Remember, your single wire goes on the coil, and the rest you'll just want to check the alignment, the loom it comes through. Make sure they're all in the right order.

Reinstall the intake boot onto the MAP sensor. Tighten down the hose clamp with your flat-blade screwdriver. Line up your fitting onto the throttle body. Remember, this has to slide on at the front first and then be pushed down. Reinstall your PVC breather. Reinstall your thumb screw. Just get that down as tight as you can by hand, and you're good to go.

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