Replaces
This part doesn’t fit a . Select from parts that fit.
1A Auto Lifetime Warranty
Frequently bought together
Part Details
Product Features
Item Condition:
New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
FREE Shipping is standard on orders shipped to the lower 48 States (Contiguous United States). Standard shipping charges apply to Hawaii and Alaska.
Shipping is not available to a P.O. Box, APO/FPO/DPO addresses, US Territories, or Canada for this item.
Expedited is available on checkout to the United States, excluding Alaska, Hawaii.
Final shipping costs are available at checkout.
Created on:
Tools used
Brought to you by 1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet.
Hi, I'm Mike from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of 1AAuto.com. Thanks!
In this video, we're going to show you how to replace the front brakes on this 2010 Buick Enclave. We show you on the passenger side, but the driver side is the same procedure. The items that you'll need for this are a new brake pad and rotor kit from 1AAuto.com; 13mm, 21mm, and 22mm socket and ratchet; a piece of pipe for some extra leverage; flat blade screwdriver; T30 Torx bit; hammer; torque wrench; large C-clamp; brake cleaner; brake grease; and jack and jack stands.
Start off by prying off your hubcap and then remove these 22mm lug nuts. You want to just loosen them while the vehicle is on the ground and then raise the vehicle up and remove them the rest of the way. Now the wheel will pull free.
Okay, check the condition of your brakes. Run the back of your fingernail up the rotor and do it on both sides, just checking for any harsh grooves or anything. You're going to feel small grooves, those are okay. Then you can see there's the wear mark in there. The pads have a little bit of life left on them, that's the inside pad there and the outside pad. We can see just through here, the pads have a little bit of life but the owner of this car has complained about pulsating when they are braking so we're going to remove and change the pads and rotors.
Take a big screwdriver or a small pry bar and put it right in here. Pry out on the caliper on the rotor just a little bit, just to get things loosened up so the caliper comes off easy. Now remove these two 13mm bolts, and we'll fast-forward as Mike does that. Now the caliper will pull free and you just want to set that aside. Then pry out your brake pads. Then just pull off your brake pad slides and you want to check these slides, make sure they go in and out. If not, we'll show you how to deal with that later.
For now, remove these two 21mm bolts. Once you remove those, the bracket will pull free and then you can remove this T30 screw. Now that that's removed just put a lug nut back onto the rotor and then hammer it from behind to break it free. Then remove the lug nut and pull the rotor off.
On the left are the old brake pads and rotor, on the right are the new ones from 1AAuto.com.You can see they are identical and they'll fit exactly the same.
Take your new rotor and slide it into place. Then replace that T30 screw and just tighten it up. Now wipe down the rotor with brake cleaner or mineral spirits. Then put your caliper bracket in place and replace those two 21mm bolts. Then just tighten those up. Then torque both of those to 100 foot-pounds.
All right, so this slide is a lot stiffer than I like to see them. I'm going to pull it out, clean it off, back in and out a few times. Put some new grease on it and we'll repeat this for any other ones that need it. Much better. Push the brake pad slides back into place. All right, take your pad, you really want to push the top slide up. The tabs here should hold them from coming out, but they should go against and then pop back out. Back ones it's the same thing, back ones have the wear tab on it.
Take a old brake pad and put it in the caliper. Use a large C-clamp and force the pistons back in. Put the caliper back into place. Once it's back in place, replace those two 13mm bolts and tighten them up. Now torque both of those to 35 foot-pounds. Put your wheel back into place, then replace the lug nuts and then tighten them up in a crossing pattern. Now torque each of them to 100 foot-pounds in a crossing pattern. After doing any work on the brakes, you want to just pump the brake pedal until it firms up. Then do a stopping test from 5 miles per hour and then 10 miles per hour.
We hope this video helps you out. Brought to you by www.1AAuto.com, your source for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Please feel free to call us toll-free, 888-844-3393. We're the company that's here for you on the Internet and in person.
Tools used
I'm gonna take a 22-millimeter socket and remove these lug nuts on the wheel. Now I'm gonna remove the wheel. I'm gonna remove these two caliper bolts. Use a 13-millimeter socket. Loosen them up first. All right. Now I'm just gonna take a straight blade screwdriver and just pry the caliper over a little bit just to compress the pistons a little bit. And that's good. Now I can slide the caliper off. And then take a brake caliper hanger and hang the caliper from the coil spring. Just make sure there's no tension on the hose. Now I'll take the brake pads off. Now we're gonna take these caliper bracket bolts off. Use a 21-millimeter socket. Break those free. And take those bolts out and slide that bracket right off. I'm gonna take this screw out. Use a t30 socket. Now I'll take a hammer and just hit right on these parts of the rotor. Try not to hit the studs. There we go. And slide it off.
Now I wanna clean up this hub a little bit. I'm gonna use a die grinder and just clean up some of this rust. I'm not gonna go too crazy. Just lightly sand it. Or you could use a wire brush. I'm just gonna take a light coat of anti-seize and just go around the hub. Now I'm gonna take this rotor, put it on backwards first. Take some brake parts cleaner and wipe it off and then spin it around. You wanna line this hole up with that threaded hole. And do the same on this side. Now I'm gonna put this screw in and just snug it down. Now we're gonna clean up the brake caliper bracket. Take these slides off or anti-rattle clips. Just use a straight-blade screwdriver. Slide that off. You can do the same on the other side. And we wanna clean up some of this rust. You can use a wire brush or you can use a die grinder. Just be careful. Don't take off too much material. It's cleaned up. Just take some brake caliper grease. Just do a nice thin coat. And put this pad slide back on and walk it down and just another thin coat of brake caliper grease, right where the pads are gonna slide. Then you can do the same on the other side.
Now I'm gonna pull the caliper pins out just like that. You take a little bit of brake clean, brake parts cleaner, and just clean these off. And if it's extremely dirty, you can clean out the inside as well with brake parts cleaner. Take some caliper grease, slide it back in, and then just make sure you set this boot back around the pin. Then you can do the same for the other side. Now you can put this caliper bracket over the rotor and put these bolts in. You can use some thread-locking compound on these bolts.
Then we can torque these bolts to 129 foot-pounds. Start with the top one and then the bottom. And then we'll take the brake pads and the one with the squealer or the brake warning indicator, it's gonna go on the inside with the tab facing up and the other one's gonna go on the outside. And I'll just take the caliper off the hanger. And I'm gonna use a brake caliper tool to compress the piston. It's going the wrong way. And just slowly compress the piston back into the caliper.
As you do this, this is gonna push brake fluid through the caliper, through the hoses, through the lines, back up to the master cylinder. All right. Those pistons are compressed. Now I'm gonna take the caliper and make sure the hose isn't twisted and just slide it over the pads. And put the bolts back in and torque these bolts to 47 foot-pounds, starting with the top one.
All right. Now I'm gonna put the tire back on and put the lug nuts on. Now we're gonna tighten the lug nuts down to 140 foot-pounds in a cross pattern to tighten the wheel down evenly. I'll just go around again, double-check. And now you wanna pump the brake pedal. Just go nice and slow. There's gonna be an air gap between the brake caliper piston and the brake pads. And once it feels good, then you're all set. And double-check the fluid level and adjust accordingly.
