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Part Details
TRQ brake kits are designed to restore your brake system to like-new performance. TRQ brake pads are positive molded, thermal scorched, chamfered, and utilize a multi-layer shim for enhanced performance and service life. TRQ rotors have a non-directional finish that reduces the break-in period for new rotors as well as reducing vibrations throughout the rotor’s lifecycle. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Product Features
Premium Positive Molded Brake Pads Features and Benefits
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New
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WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Lead and Lead Compounds, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
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Hi, I'm Mike from 1AAuto. We've been selling auto parts for over 30 years! We're dedicated to delivering quality auto parts, expert customer service, and fast and free shipping, all backed by our 100% satisfaction guarantee. So visit us at 1AAuto.com, your trusted source for quality auto parts.
In this video, we're going to be working with our 2009 Nissan Rogue all-wheel drive. We're going to show you how to remove and replace your vehicle's rear brake pads and rotors.
If you like this video, please click Subscribe. We have a ton more information on this and many other vehicles. If you need these parts for your car, you can follow the link down in the description over to 1aauto.com.
Here are the items you'll need for this repair: 14-21mm socket, ratchet, breaker bar, wire brush, brake grease, brake cleaner, groove jaw pliers, torque wrench, jack and jack stands
Loosen your lug nuts with a 21 millimeter socket and a breaker bar. You want to loosen them all about one turn. Raise and support your vehicle. We're using a lift to make it easier to show you what's going on, but this job can easily be done at home with a jack and jack stands.
Now, normally you can remove lug nuts by hand, but these are recessed pretty far into the wheel, so I'm just going to use the 21 millimeter socket and my hand to remove the rest of our lug nuts. Remove your wheel and tire.
Remove the two 14 millimeter caliper bolts with a 14 millimeter socket and ratchet. Make sure you crack them both loose before removing either one fully. Now this pin is pretty stuck in the caliper bracket. You'll want to use some wrenches that are smaller than the flange of the bolt but bigger than the shank of the bolt. Use those to get over it and pry it out while you turn it to help wedge it and force it out of the caliper. Now you'll see I'm using two wrenches to bridge this gap, so you kind of pry them out as far as you can, and if you reach a point where you can't go any further, add another wrench.
Now, normally we would use a bungee cord to secure these, but this caliper isn't very heavy and I have a nice flat control arm back here where we can just rest it out of the way. Loosen the caliper bracket bolts with a 17 millimeter socket. Ours are pretty rusted, so we're using a breaker bar. You may just be able to use a ratchet. Again, be sure to break both loose before removing either one fully. Our brake pad fell out. That's fine. We're going to be replacing them anyway. Remove your caliper bracket from the vehicle. Remove your brake rotor.
Here we have our old brake parts that we removed from our vehicle and our new parts from 1AAuto.com. As you can see these parts are exactly the same. We have the same dimensions on the rotor. This small hole here is an access for your e-brake adjuster so you can adjust that up. However, there should be a rubber plug here that's missing on our part. Our brake pads actually aren't that bad. The reason we're replacing these brakes is due to the heavy corrosion and rust build-up on the rotors. This is caused from partially from the vehicle sitting.
The other portion of this issue is: you can tell by the wear on the brakes that this vehicle has had just brake pads put on it without having the rotor machined which is fairly uncommon, or a new rotor installed. Of course we always recommend you do pads and rotors as a set. So if your old brakes are rusted and corroded, or the backing on your brakes is worn down, these new parts from 1A Auto will go in direct fit, just like your original equipment, and fix you up right.
Remove your brake hardware. Use a screwdriver if necessary, but these pop off pretty well by hand. Use a wire brush to clean all the rust and debris build-up where your brake hardware sits in the bracket. You don't have to go crazy with this. It's not going to be perfectly smooth, but you do want to get the majority of the heavy build-up off of there. We'll then take our hardware which ours really isn't that bad. If yours is really rusted, broken, or doesn't have its spring to it, then you'll need to replace them. But we're just going to clean ours off with a wire brush. Apply a thin coat of brake grease to the caliper bracket where your hardware sits. This will prevent more rust from building up underneath it, as well as helping to hold in those clips a little bit better. Reinstall your hardware.
You'll notice one side is shorter than the other, so make sure it goes together correctly. Make sure this one with the long tab goes on the bottom. We'll apply a thin coat of grease to this as well. You'll notice some coating places that the brake pad does not ride in. But that's just again to help prevent with rust and debris build-up. Using a wire brush clean the rust and debris off the surface of your hub to make sure your rotor sits flat and straight. Ours is pretty bad so as opposed to a wire brush we're going to get an air grinder on here and rip some of that material off. We'll now apply a thin coat of grease to the hub. Again, this is to keep parts from rusting together or rusting at all, so next time we'll just wipe the old grease off and apply a nice new coat, rather than go through all the work and effort of grinding it and cleaning it down again.
Install your rotor onto the hub backwards. Spray down the surface of the rotor with some brake parts cleaner. This will remove any dirt and debris, as well as the oils they use to prevent these parts from rusting while they're being stored. We'll then flip the rotor around and you can see we have this cool kind of star shape to the hub which means the location of your e-brake adjuster hole doesn't matter because it will work in any of the positions, and then we'll spray down the front side too.
Reinstall your brake caliper bracket, as well as the two 17 millimeter bolts. Tighten them down with a 17 millimeter socket and ratchet. Install your brake pads and apply a coat of grease to the back side of the pad where the caliper will contact it. Using a pair of groove jaw pliers carefully and slowly compress your brake caliper piston. Grease your guide pins.
Reinstall your brake caliper over the pads. Make sure that you get your boots lined up and start your pins. We'll then tighten down our pins with a 14 millimeter socket and ratchet.
Now normally you would want to reinstall the rubber cover for your e-brake adjuster, but ours is missing so we'll reinstall the wheel and tire. I'll get one nut started on there, we'll get the rest on as best we can and then tighten them down by hand with our 21 millimeter socket. We'll then torque our lug nuts to 80 foot-pounds in a cross pattern.
Thanks for watching. Visit us at 1AAuto.com for quality auto parts, fast and free shipping, and the best customer service in the industry.
Tools used
Tools used
Tools used
Tools used
Tools used
We're going to take these lug nuts off. Use a 21-millimeter socket, and remove the wheel. These two bolts out, use a 14-millimeter wrench. That one's stuck.
I'm going to take this lower caliper bolt off. I'm going to use a 14-millimeter socket. I'm not going to take the top one off because the brake hose is in the way, so I'm just going to have to tip this caliper up and slide that out.
I'm just going to use a straight-blade screwdriver, just compress the caliper. Just compress the caliper a little bit, and then just slide it up and off like that. And you can work it back and forth. This one's a little bit seized in here, so I'm going to have to clean that up, but normally, it should just slide right off. And slide it right off like that. Take a right brake caliper hanger and just hang it up. Make sure there's no tension on the brake hose.
We'll take the brake pads off. You can use a screwdriver and pry them out. We're going to take this caliper bracket off, take these two bolts off. We're going to use a 17-millimeter socket. Take those bolts out, and just slide the caliper bracket right off.
Now, we're going to take the brake rotor off. Just take a hammer. I'm going to hit it right here, here, in those areas. Just be careful not to hit the studs. Give it a tap, slide it off. And just take a wire brush, clean up some of this rust. If anything's built up, make sure you get that off. That's all cleaned up. Just use a little bit of copper anti-seize, just a nice thin coat, so the rotor doesn't get stuck on.
All right, take the rotor. We're just going to install it backwards. Take some brake parts cleaner, clean this off. Use a rag. There is a coating on the brakes themselves, on the rotor. Flip it around. Do the same on this side and wipe it down.
On the old rotor, there's a little plug right here. Just take a pocket screwdriver, pull that out. Just install that in the new one. Just line it up. We're good to go.
Just take this anti-rattle clip off, or pad slide clip, and just use a pocket screwdriver, slide this off. Take a wire brush, just clean up this area. Take a little brake caliper grease right there and right there. Take the new anti-rattle clip, slide it in place. Do the same on the other side.
And just take a little brake parts cleaner. Just clean out the...where the brake caliper pins go. And use a rag to clean that out. And also, the pins themselves, a little brake parts cleaner, clean it up. And you can use a little bit of brake caliper grease on these. And we'll reinstall these when we put the caliper back on.
Just take a little more brake caliper grease, put it on the slides, right there and right there. Slide the bracket over the rotor. Take the two bolts, get those started, and torque those bolts to 62 foot-pounds.
Take the brake pads. The inside brake pad is going to have the one with the wear indicator at the base of the pad, just like this. And the outside one with no indicator, slide that in position.
Take the brake caliper off the hanger, and you want to use a brake caliper compressing tool. I'm just going to take an old brake pad, slide it in here, and compress the brake pad. That's going to push the piston back, push the fluid through the hoses and lines, back up into the master cylinder. Just do it nice and slow.
And just some brake caliper grease on this slide pin, and that's good. Slide that back in. Make sure that seals up there. And take the other slide pin and bolt, and slide that back in. And torque that bolt to 32 foot-pounds. If you took that top bolt out, torque that one as well. We didn't take it out, so we're good.
Reinstall the wheel. Put the lug nuts on. Now I'm going to torque the lug nuts to 83 foot-pounds in a star pattern to tighten the wheel down evenly.
And I'll just go around again, double check. And pump the brake pedal nice and slow. There's going to be an air gap between the brake caliper piston and the brake pads. And then, check the brake fluid level and adjust accordingly.
Tools used
Tools used
Remove the hubcap. Use a pry bar or a pry tool. Use a 21-millimeter socket to take the lug nuts off and remove the wheel. Remove this lower bolt on the caliper, attaching it to the bracket. This bolts because of the brake hose. We're gonna leave that one in. Use a 14-millimeter socket. Take that out. Just rotate the caliper up and slide it off. Leave that pin attached to the caliper.
Take the brake caliper. Find a position where the hose is not being stretched. Lay the caliper down or use a brake caliper hanger. Take the brake pads off. Just use a screwdriver, or sometimes they slide right off. These are rusted in there. Take these two caliper bracket bolts out. Use a 17-millimeter socket. And slide the bracket off. Take this little plug off the rotor. Use a pick or a screwdriver. Save that, you're gonna use that on the other rotor. And take the rotor off, just use a hammer if it's stuck on there. Hitting these locations. Just be careful, don't hit the studs. And slide it off.
Clean up some of the hub surface to get some of that rust off. Either use a wire brush or a sanding disc. Just take some brake parts cleaner, clean that up. You can put a thin coat of anti-seize on the hub surface. It looks good. Take the rotor, just install it backwards first. Take a little brake parts cleaner, clean the backside of the rotor. Wipe it down with a rag. And flip the rotor over. It looks good. Now clean this side and wipe it down.
If you have to adjust the parking brake, the adjuster is down here. Install the plug. That's another way you can adjust the parking brake in that area. You can take that off and use a screwdriver. Now, take the pad hardware off. Just use a pick or a screwdriver. Take a wire brush, remove some of this rust. Use a little brake clean. And wipe it down.
Take a little brake grease. Take the brake hardware and line it up. And then do the same for the other side. Now, take the brake caliper guide pin or the caliper bolt. Clean that up. Use a little brake parts cleaner. If it's really bad, you can use a wire brush on it to clean some of that up, clean some of the rust off. And do the same, the one that's attached to the caliper. And because this was fairly rusty, I'm gonna clean these caliper guide holes out.
Then you can use a rag, clean that out, do the same on this side. And take some brake caliper grease and grease the slide up or the pin up. Just take a thin coat of brake caliper grease, just put it on the slides. Do the same on the other side. And take the bracket, slide it over the rotor. Take those bolts. Get those started. And torque those bolts to 62-foot pounds.
Now, take the brake pads. The one with the warning indicator is gonna go on the inside and the indicator is gonna be towards the bottom. Slide that in position and then the other one on the outboard side. And take that brake caliper and use a caliper compressor tool. Compress the caliper, just do it nice and slow. Use some brake caliper lube on that. I'm gonna pin right there.
Now, take the brake caliper and slide that pin into the bracket. Make sure that seals. And slide it down. Take the other pin and just slide it in position. And torque this bolt to 32-foot pounds. And if you loosened up this top one, torque that one as well. And put the wheel back on and the lug nuts.
Now, torque the lug nuts to 80-foot pounds in a star pattern to tighten the wheel down evenly. Just go around again, double-check. And line the hubcap up in the valve stem, reinstall the hubcap. Make sure you pump the brake pedal nice and slow, and double-check your brake fluid level.
