Replaces
This part doesn’t fit a . Select from parts that fit.
1A Auto Lifetime Warranty
Frequently bought together
Part Details
TRQ fully loaded shocks and struts are manufactured using premium raw materials and calibrated to restore original ride comfort. TRQ shocks are fully loaded featuring a pre-loaded bearing plate, upper and lower spring isolator, upper spring seat, coil spring, boot kit, and premium strut. TRQ recommends replacing your shocks or struts in pairs to ensure even wear of components and improved ride comfort. All products are fit and road-tested in our Massachusetts R&D facility to ensure we deliver on our promise of Trusted Reliable Quality.
Product Features
Replacing struts used to require specialized tools to compress, remove, and transfer the old spring and mount. Our Pre-assembled, complete strut & spring assemblies come with all new parts and make the job much quicker and easier for the do-it-yourself mechanic.
Strut & spring assembly contains:
Item Condition:
New
Attention California Customers:
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including Chromium (Hexavalent Compounds), which is known to the State of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov
Lifetime Warranty
This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. In the event that this item should fail due to manufacturing defects during intended use, we will replace the part free of charge. This warranty covers the cost of the part only.
FREE Shipping is standard on orders shipped to the lower 48 States (Contiguous United States). Standard shipping charges apply to Hawaii and Alaska.
Shipping is not available to a P.O. Box, APO/FPO/DPO addresses, US Territories, or Canada for this item.
Expedited is available on checkout to the United States, excluding Alaska, Hawaii.
Final shipping costs are available at checkout.
Created on:
Tools used
Okay, friends, one of the first things we need to do to get started on this job is to safely raise and support the truck. After you've done that, remove your center cover here. And then remove all six of your 21-millimeter lug nuts, and get the wheel off. Now that the wheel is off, let's go ahead and get this ABS wire disconnected. I'm just gonna come right along here and then remove this 8-millimeter bolt. Now, let's go ahead and remove our anchor bolt for our flex hose for the brakes. Let's go ahead and remove this little center cover. Now, let's remove our axle nut. Now, we're just going to push on this axle stub here. If it doesn't move, just go ahead and put the nut back on a few good threads, and then give it a couple of loving bonks with a hammer. Now, let's go ahead and get our cotter pinout for our tie rod. Set that aside for recycling. Let's remove the nut. Now, we're going to use a hammer and we're going to hit right on the knuckle right here to try to break this free. Now, let's remove our upper ball joint nut. Now, we're just gonna separate these two. Now, the next thing we need to do is remove the bolt that's going to be holding the front strut to the actual lower control arm. I'm going to hold the bolt side on this with a wrench. And then I'll, of course, remove the nut. There we are.
The next thing we're going to want to do is carefully pull down right along here. Now we can separate these two. Let's just go ahead and spray those mounting bolts from the top there. Now, we're going to go ahead and remove those three mounting nuts. All right. So, that's almost off of there. Let's leave it on a couple of threads and then we'll fully remove the other two. There we are. All right. So, now we're back to our last nut here. Let's make sure we hold up on that front strut so it can't fall out on us. All right. There it is, friends. All right, friends, let's go ahead and get our strut up in here. Start all of your nuts, snug them up. All right. Let's get this lower aspect in. Start the nut on there. Now, we're gonna apply a little bit of pressure underneath the lower control arm so we can bring this up so it'd be almost like it's sitting on the ground, and then we'll go ahead and snug this. Go ahead. Let's snug this up. Let's torque this to 406 foot-pounds. Now, with pressure still underneath there, let's go ahead and torque these upper mounting bolts as well. We're going to torque these to 30 foot-pounds. The next thing we need to do is get our axle inside the knuckle as we push the knuckle up. You want to be very careful not to damage your internal seal. Now, I'm just gonna take a pry bar, come in and under here, and then I'm going to try to put the ball joint through the knuckle. Go ahead and start that nut, snug it up, torque it to 85 foot-pounds.
What you want to do next is make sure that you have your slot lined up with the hole on your ball joint stud. If for some reason it isn't, you need to continue tightening until it is. Next, take your cotter pin, go ahead and put it through the slot and the hole, and then, of course, lock it down. Let's get our sway bar back up on here. Start on both of the nuts, snug them up and torque them to 41 foot-pounds. Do the same to the side of the vehicle. Let's make sure we install our grease fitting. Apply some grease. The next thing we're going to want to do is put on our axle nut. I like to use a little bit of red thread locker, bottom it out, and then torque it to 20 foot-pounds. Now that that's torqued, we're gonna go ahead and install this cover. You want to make sure that it's not damaged in any way. Go ahead and slide it right on there and bottom it out. Now, before we can continue on to putting the brakes together, we want to make sure that the hub mating surface in the back of the rotor mating surface is nice and clean. After you've done that, apply a little bit of copper Never-Seez. Let's go ahead and get our rotor back on here.
I'm going to start a lug nut on so it holds the rotor for me. Let's get our caliper reattached. We're going to use some thread locker, of course, on the bolts. Start them both in and then we're going to torque them to 185 foot-pounds. Let's get our vacuum lines reattached. Now, we're going to reconnect in our bracket. ABS wire. Let's snug them up. Let's start resecuring our ABS wire. Make sure you go up and in between the brake line here. Just like that. This looks good for now. Make my way down here, a little push clip. It's gonna go into your hole right there. The rest of it should just line up. We'll continue on. Making our way up here, let's make sure we reconnect in our ABS wire. Listen for a click. And then, of course, give it a nice tug. After that, you want to make sure that you secure it back in up here. Make sure everything is nice and secured and it's definitely not rubbing up against anything, and there's no way it can get caught. Let's get the outer tie rod end on here. Snug this up, torque it to 85 foot-pounds. The next thing we want to do is make sure that our slots line up with the hole in the stud for the tie rod. If for some reason it doesn't, you need to continue tightening until the next one does. Install your locking cotter pin and then lock it down. Let's get the wheel back up on here. Stud all of your lug nuts, snug them up and torque them to 150 foot-pounds. Torqued. Okay, friends, so that's pretty much it. Aside from making sure you pump up that brake pedal, and then get yourself safely down to an alignment shop.
Tools used
Okay, friends to get started, one of the first things we need to do is safely raise and support the vehicle. After that, let's go ahead and remove this center cover and then remove all 6 of our 21-millimeter lug nuts. Remove your wheel. Now we have a nice, clear view of our rear shock, one of the first things we're gonna do is spray down these upper nuts up here. That's gonna make it much easier for us. Right down here, you're gonna see there's another nut with a bolt that goes through. Let's spray that down as well. Perfect. Now let's go ahead and try to loosen these up. You're gonna notice that one of them's gonna be behind. It's a little harder to get to, but you can do it.
Let's get this one. Now I'm just gonna reach around through here. I got my ratchet wrench. Perfect. Now looking under here, you can see where our next nut is. Let's go ahead and remove this as well. I'm gonna hold the backside with a nice ratchet and a socket. With the nut off of there, we can continue on by removing the bolt. Give this a couple of turns to break it free. All right. Now let's continue on to removing this bolt right here. On the backside, you're gonna find that there's a captured nut. We don't really have to worry about that. Let's go ahead and spray it down with some penetrant, and now we'll start removing the bolt.
So now that that's loose, the next thing we need to do is take a nice bolt that looks like this. We're gonna go ahead and put it down through the top and out through this hole. That's gonna help make it so when we put the jack here, it won't be able to slip. So now we're just gonna go ahead and jack this up. As you can tell, it's at an angle, the bolt's gonna hold it from sliding. And now we can continue on to removing this bolt. There goes the captured nut. No problem. Let's go ahead and get this out of here. Perfect. Now let's move along to removing our lower bolt. We're just gonna lower this down. Let's give it a couple of loving bonks. Let's get our bolts out of there. Now let's carefully lower our jack down so it relieves this arm. There we are. Let's go ahead and do this. Let's get our last nut off of there. There it is, friends.
All right, friends, let's get this new shock up and in here. Line up those studs, start in all of your nuts. Okay. So we've got these bottomed out, let's continue on. All right. So the next thing we need to do is get our jack back under here. We're gonna get our shock so it's getting ready to come inside this access point right here for our bolt. Start jacking this up into the area that it's supposed to go. Once everything starts lining up, we'll put our bolts in.
So now that we have this so it's pretty much lined up on this one, we'll go ahead and start our bolt in. That looks decent enough. I'll just continue jacking this so we can access this one. Let's go ahead and get our captured nut back up on here. Screw in this bolt a little bit. So now that we have both of these bolts started, what we're gonna do is we're gonna jack up right under here and try to bring this to the level as if the vehicle was on the ground putting pressure right here. That looks pretty great. Now let's go ahead and snug these up. Now with pressure still underneath that lower control arm, we need to continue on by tightening up these nuts right here. You would torque these to 30 foot-pounds, assuming you can get your socket with your torque wrench in there. If you can't, just kind of make them snug. It's always a good idea to use some thread locker.
Now we're gonna torque this bolt right here to 406 foot-pounds. Let's go ahead and torque this bolt to 266 foot-pounds. Let's go ahead and get our wheel back up on here, start all of our lug nuts, and then we'll torque them to manufacturer specifications. Now with the wheel just barely touching the ground, let's go ahead and torque our lug nuts to 150 foot-pounds.
Get our center cover back on there, lower it down, take it for a road test.
